On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 12:25:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters. Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness. Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.

I was referring to keeping the router depth a constant. If this
worked, I'd think a reference dovetail would be just as good.

For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material. Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side. That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth... I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick. The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick. I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4" fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side. BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets. This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later. I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.

Please do. It sounds interesting. Maybe a Youtube video too? ;-)