I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.
Or just pop it out to 7/16" and use an SAE Grade 10 bolt - smaller
hole than 12mm (.39 instead of .406)

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 22:17:11 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

I'd go for the Heli-Coil too. You have determined experimentally that
the weld nut was not hardened to spec. Putting in a helicoil with a
10mm thread should let you tighten to spec without stripping the hole.

Oh, and if you haven't done it recently you might want to check the
calibration on your torque wrench.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 6:54:41 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg

J. Clarke's helicoil suggestion is the way I would go. Its a bit more work, but you will have hardened threads, vs what you have now.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 11:46:46 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 22:17:11 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

I'd go for the Heli-Coil too. You have determined experimentally that
the weld nut was not hardened to spec. Putting in a helicoil with a
10mm thread should let you tighten to spec without stripping the hole.

Oh, and if you haven't done it recently you might want to check the
calibration on your torque wrench.

Thanks. I'll order a kit.

I actually started thinking about a Heli-Coil late last night and planned
to look into them today. I'd heard of them but never used them. Guess it's
time to learn.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 10:17:15 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

"I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert"

There are a bunch of "Heli-Coil type" kits available that are way cheaper
than the actual Heli-Coil kit. Am I paying extra for the Heli-Coil name?
Are the cheaper kits (Highking, E-Z Lok, etc) serviceable for a (hopefully)
one time use?

Maybe the inserts in the cheaper kits aren't as hard...

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 11:46:46 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 22:17:11 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

I'd go for the Heli-Coil too. You have determined experimentally that
the weld nut was not hardened to spec. Putting in a helicoil with a
10mm thread should let you tighten to spec without stripping the hole.

Oh, and if you haven't done it recently you might want to check the
calibration on your torque wrench.

Needs some more advice on the Heli-Coil.

How does the installation tang on the insert impact what I'm trying to do?

Do I need to order a tang removal tool to ensure that the bolt is free
to travel as far as it has to?

Keep in mind that I'm dealing with a weld nut, which is pretty shallow (not
many threads) and open ended. I haven't measured the bolt, but I'm assuming
it extends all the way through the weld nut.

On Sat, 12 Sep 2020 04:17:13 -0700 (PDT), "Dr. Deb"
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 6:54:41 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg

J. Clarke's helicoil suggestion is the way I would go. Its a bit more work, but you will have hardened threads, vs what you have now.

Just to give credit where it is due, Clare came up with the helicoil
suggestion. I just added my 2 cents worth.

On 9/11/2020 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.
....

No reason to think to ever remove it is there?

Put the bolt in, tighten as it will, then just spot weld the head.

--

On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 10:36:50 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 9/11/2020 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.
...

No reason to think to ever remove it is there?

Put the bolt in, tighten as it will, then just spot weld the head.

--

2 issues:

1 - You can't reach the bolt head with a welder once installed. The bumper bar
hangs from the same set of bolts. The hitch is sandwiched between the bumper
bar and the frame of the vehicle. The bolt head ends up deep inside the
corner triangle seen in the image below. It's hard enough to get a socket
on it since you have to feed it through 2 holes to reach the "keyhole" that
is shown in the second image.

Bumper from the top:

https://i.imgur.com/90UI1ne.jpg

Here's a picture of a guy about to hang the bumper bar on the exact bolt
where I stripped the weld nut. That "point

https://i.imgur.com/jBUK0nV.jpg

2 - Maybe I'm missing something. Even if the bumper bar wasn't involved, what
would be the point the spot welding the head to the hitch? Sure, it wouldn't
turn, but what about the outward & downward force on the weakened threads
while towing. Isn't the point of possible failure those weakened threads?

If that is not an issue, I might as well just put some lock-tite on the
stripped one and mainly rely on the other 5 bolts.

On 9/12/2020 10:16 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg
Is there space to drill out the nut and replace it with a standard nut
and bolt of the appropriate size?

On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 12:30:25 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On 9/12/2020 10:16 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg
Is there space to drill out the nut and replace it with a standard nut
and bolt of the appropriate size?

There is no access to the area behind the weld nuts.

As far as I can tell the order of the build was to weld the nuts to the part
of the frame that runs across the back of the vehicle and then weld that
part of the frame to the square tubes that run towards the front of the
vehicle. (The tubes that you would hang a hitch from if you were mounting
one of the exposed kind) The weld nuts are essentially inside those tubes.

What they did seems to make sense because those weld nuts are really for the
bumper bar that is hidden behind the fascia. If the vehicle was hit from the
rear, the curved bumper bar would transfer the force to the square tubes
which are pretty darn solid. That would hopefully keep the vehicle that rear
ended you out of the passenger compartment.

On 9/11/2020 7:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


You can tap the nut larger but it still won't work. No matter how many
times you run the 12MM die over the 10mm bolts they will still be loose.
I have no idea why that happens but I guess it is a metric thing.

Glad I could help.

On 9/12/2020 11:18 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

2 - Maybe I'm missing something. Even if the bumper bar wasn't involved, what
would be the point the spot welding the head to the hitch? Sure, it wouldn't
turn, but what about the outward & downward force on the weakened threads
while towing. Isn't the point of possible failure those weakened threads?

You already said able to snug it up reasonable; just anything to keep it
from backing out will adequate at that point.


If that is not an issue, I might as well just put some lock-tite on the
stripped one and mainly rely on the other 5 bolts.

Ayup...that was the other suggestion I was going to make. Permanent type.



--

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 22:24:34 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.
Or just pop it out to 7/16" and use an SAE Grade 10 bolt - smaller
hole than 12mm (.39 instead of .406)
This is still the SIMPLEST fix - you might call it "gerry rigging"
or "*******izing" due to use of a non-metric thread - but it is the
cheapest, simplest solution - error - use "grade 8" SAE bolt no such
thing as a "grade 10" bolt

On Sat, 12 Sep 2020 06:38:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 10:17:15 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

"I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert"

There are a bunch of "Heli-Coil type" kits available that are way cheaper
than the actual Heli-Coil kit. Am I paying extra for the Heli-Coil name?
Are the cheaper kits (Highking, E-Z Lok, etc) serviceable for a (hopefully)
one time use?

Maybe the inserts in the cheaper kits aren't as hard...

For one insert, or even four, there is no savings by the time you get
to done.

Weld nuts can have pretty thin walls. Is there enough meat for
helicoils to work?

Grade 8 bolts may rust too quickly.

Joe Gwinn

On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 6:43:46 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 22:24:34 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.
Or just pop it out to 7/16" and use an SAE Grade 10 bolt - smaller
hole than 12mm (.39 instead of .406)
This is still the SIMPLEST fix - you might call it "gerry rigging"
or "*******izing" due to use of a non-metric thread - but it is the
cheapest, simplest solution - error - use "grade 8" SAE bolt no such
thing as a "grade 10" bolt

But there is a 10.9. I'm sure you know that.

On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 3:15:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 9/12/2020 11:18 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

2 - Maybe I'm missing something. Even if the bumper bar wasn't involved, what
would be the point the spot welding the head to the hitch? Sure, it wouldn't
turn, but what about the outward & downward force on the weakened threads
while towing. Isn't the point of possible failure those weakened threads?

You already said able to snug it up reasonable; just anything to keep it
from backing out will adequate at that point.


Gotcha...but still can't get to it to weld it once the bumper bar is mounted.


If that is not an issue, I might as well just put some lock-tite on the
stripped one and mainly rely on the other 5 bolts.

Ayup...that was the other suggestion I was going to make. Permanent type.



It's something to consider.

On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 8:05:17 PM UTC-4, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Sat, 12 Sep 2020 06:38:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 10:17:15 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

"I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert"

There are a bunch of "Heli-Coil type" kits available that are way cheaper
than the actual Heli-Coil kit. Am I paying extra for the Heli-Coil name?
Are the cheaper kits (Highking, E-Z Lok, etc) serviceable for a (hopefully)
one time use?

Maybe the inserts in the cheaper kits aren't as hard...

For one insert, or even four, there is no savings by the time you get
to done.

Weld nuts can have pretty thin walls. Is there enough meat for
helicoils to work?

Grade 8 bolts may rust too quickly.

Joe Gwinn

Actually, there may not be much expense. A neighbor is bringing his kit
over tomorrow. We're going to try a 10mm Heli-Coil and see what happens.

On Sat, 12 Sep 2020 20:05:07 -0400, Joe Gwinn
wrote:

On Sat, 12 Sep 2020 06:38:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 10:17:15 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:33:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 9:03:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:54:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I was attempting to install a hidden hitch on my van today. Before I reached
the specified torque given in the instructions for one of the 10mm bolts, the
weld nut on the vehicle stripped. The bolt still threads in, but never
tightens fully. It's not the bolt, it's the weld nut.

There is no access to the weld nut from under the vehicle. There is nothing
strong/thick enough in the area to drill through for a nut and bolt.

I'm thinking of tapping the 10mm weld nut to 12mm and using a 12mm bolt for
that one hole.

As described in the image below, there are two 12 mm bolts that hold the
hitch on the vehicle's frame up from the bottom (one on each side) and four
10mm bolts that go through the face of the hitch into the holes that also
hold the bumper bar into the frame. The facia then covers the bumber bar and
hitch, leaving only the receiver showing.

The upper right 10mm weld nut is now stripped.

All suggestions welcome. Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/08cHQDV.jpg


Crap .. everything was going so well - until it stripped. :-(

1. Are you actually pulling a loaded trailer ?
I installed a hitch on our Jetta - for bicycle carrier only !.
.. was surprised to see a very low torque number 26 ft. lbs. ?
for the two bolts that held at the rear exhaust support.
The other supports - frame and trunk floor were solid.

Sometimes, the internet sellers have better-than-average
online support - it's their bread & butter ..

Good luck.
John T.

Yes, I'll be towing a trailer. Not as often (or as heavy) as I used now
that the kids are gone, but I still tow. I have a 5 x 8 enclosed trailer.
Towed 1500 lbs and 1250 lbs a few months ago.

The torque is 76 ft-lbs for the 12mm bolts, 59 ft-lbs for the 10mm. I know
I was getting close, but I don't actually know when the weld nut stripped.

I'm not going to try for 59 on the other bolts, but I still want to use
all four. As noted earlier, those 4 bolts also hold the bumper bar onto
the frame.


I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert .. Takes virtually the same drill
size so take your pick, I guess. .406" (10.3mm for helicoil, 13/32 for
12mm - virtually the same)

"I'd try a Heli-Coil type insert"

There are a bunch of "Heli-Coil type" kits available that are way cheaper
than the actual Heli-Coil kit. Am I paying extra for the Heli-Coil name?
Are the cheaper kits (Highking, E-Z Lok, etc) serviceable for a (hopefully)
one time use?

Maybe the inserts in the cheaper kits aren't as hard...

For one insert, or even four, there is no savings by the time you get
to done.

Weld nuts can have pretty thin walls. Is there enough meat for
helicoils to work?

Grade 8 bolts may rust too quickly.

Joe Gwinn

If one is tempted to go with the cheap stuff, read the reviews on
Amazon very carefully, especially the negative ones, and see what
people are complaining about. If they've got what looks like a
legitimate grievance over the part rather than the shipping, take it
to heart. And if it isn't both sold by and shipped by Amazon stay
away.

Note that you need the tap (the outside thread is nonstandard), the
drill to match the tap, and the insertion tool. The Helicoil brand
kits on Amazon don't have the drill, some of the knockoffs do.

Also note that there are three different thread pitches for M10. Make
sure you get the right one.

J. Clarke wrote in
:

Oh, and if you haven't done it recently you might want to check the
calibration on your torque wrench.

Is there a process for this? I've only got the one torque wrench...

Puckdropper

On 9/12/2020 7:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 3:15:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 9/12/2020 11:18 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

2 - Maybe I'm missing something. Even if the bumper bar wasn't involved, what
would be the point the spot welding the head to the hitch? Sure, it wouldn't
turn, but what about the outward & downward force on the weakened threads
while towing. Isn't the point of possible failure those weakened threads?

You already said able to snug it up reasonable; just anything to keep it
from backing out will adequate at that point.


Gotcha...but still can't get to it to weld it once the bumper bar is mounted.


If that is not an issue, I might as well just put some lock-tite on the
stripped one and mainly rely on the other 5 bolts.

Ayup...that was the other suggestion I was going to make. Permanent type.



It's something to consider.

I didn't look at pitchures, but if it's at all possible to get behind,
alternative is to remove the nut and use through bolt in place...or
don't worry about the threads in the nut; just drill out to get a bolt
thru the hole. No tapping required.

--

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 7:50:13 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 9/12/2020 7:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 3:15:42 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 9/12/2020 11:18 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

2 - Maybe I'm missing something. Even if the bumper bar wasn't involved, what
would be the point the spot welding the head to the hitch? Sure, it wouldn't
turn, but what about the outward & downward force on the weakened threads
while towing. Isn't the point of possible failure those weakened threads?

You already said able to snug it up reasonable; just anything to keep it
from backing out will adequate at that point.


Gotcha...but still can't get to it to weld it once the bumper bar is mounted.


If that is not an issue, I might as well just put some lock-tite on the
stripped one and mainly rely on the other 5 bolts.

Ayup...that was the other suggestion I was going to make. Permanent type.



It's something to consider.

I didn't look at pitchures, but if it's at all possible to get behind,
alternative is to remove the nut and use through bolt in place...or
don't worry about the threads in the nut; just drill out to get a bolt
thru the hole. No tapping required.

--

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no
access to the weld nut.

On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 08:37:15 GMT, Puckdropper
wrote:

J. Clarke wrote in
:

Oh, and if you haven't done it recently you might want to check the
calibration on your torque wrench.

Is there a process for this? I've only got the one torque wrench...

A foot-pound is exactly that--one pound force exerted over a moment
arm of one foot.

So any kind of rig you can make up that lets you put a known weight on
a known moment arm will do. If you don't have any other way to do it,
set the wrench to the torque you want (if it's a "click" type wrench),
put a big socket on it, clamp the socket in a vise with the wrench
horizontal or tilted up a tiny bit, measure off 12 inches from the
center of the socket, and hang weight on it until it clicks or hits
the mark. If the weight is approximately what it's supposed to be
you're set, if not that's another story.

You're looking for an accuracy of +/- 4%, and you want to check at 20,
60, and 100% of the rated capacity.

On 9/13/2020 8:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no
access to the weld nut.

Then how you propose to drill it out and tap it...

--

On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 09:52:55 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 9/13/2020 8:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no
access to the weld nut.

Then how you propose to drill it out and tap it...

Through the same hole that he was putting the bolt through?

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 10:53:00 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 9/13/2020 8:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no
access to the weld nut.

Then how you propose to drill it out and tap it...

--

I was responding to your comment "but if it's at all possible to get behind".

Perhaps I should of been as exact in that response as I was another post:

"There is no access to the area behind the weld nut."

Granted in my OP, I simply said "There is no access to the weld nut from
under the vehicle." Obviously there is access to the face of the weld nut
otherwise I wouldn't be able to get the bolts in. That is how I would drill
and tap it.

Bottom line: Drilling a through hole and using a nut and bolt in the same
location as the weld nut is not doable because I would not be able to get
the nut on the bolt without cutting a pretty significant opening in a
structural part of the frame.

In addition, I don't have enough access to use a pull wire (the wire with
a "spring" on the end the threads onto the bolt) to pull a bolt in from the
back and put a nut on the front.

On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 09:52:55 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 9/13/2020 8:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no
access to the weld nut.

Then how you propose to drill it out and tap it...
-______- ZING-_-_____
drom the FRONT - throught the frame.

Some peoples's kids - - - -

On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 09:03:43 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 10:53:00 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 9/13/2020 8:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no
access to the weld nut.

Then how you propose to drill it out and tap it...

--

I was responding to your comment "but if it's at all possible to get behind".

Perhaps I should of been as exact in that response as I was another post:

"There is no access to the area behind the weld nut."

Granted in my OP, I simply said "There is no access to the weld nut from
under the vehicle." Obviously there is access to the face of the weld nut
otherwise I wouldn't be able to get the bolts in. That is how I would drill
and tap it.

Bottom line: Drilling a through hole and using a nut and bolt in the same
location as the weld nut is not doable because I would not be able to get
the nut on the bolt without cutting a pretty significant opening in a
structural part of the frame.

In addition, I don't have enough access to use a pull wire (the wire with
a "spring" on the end the threads onto the bolt) to pull a bolt in from the
back and put a nut on the front.


Too bad 11mm bolts (and taps) are so rare - - - - - (used on Subaru
flywheels/crankshafts among a very few other applications I am aware
of) - but I still like the idea of a 7/16" bolt - - - It would have a
5/8" head - or make up a custom stud - 7/16 into the hole with 10mm
end to use a 10mm metric nut - - -id you want to keep withusing only
metric wrenches.

On Monday, September 14, 2020 at 7:23:30 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 09:52:55 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 9/13/2020 8:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

In at least 2 posts, starting with the OP, I have stated that there is no
access to the weld nut.

Then how you propose to drill it out and tap it...
-______- ZING-_-_____
drom the FRONT - throught the frame.

Some peoples's kids - - - -

Actually, it's from the *rear* through the frame. I typically mount my
hitches on the rear of my vehicles.

(No progress yet, it rained all day Sunday)