Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at soldering.

fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water
heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at
soldering.

I'm pretty certain you should be able to find a compression fitting to
do this, try BES. Yes, here you go:-

https://www.bes.co.uk/compression-re...-x-10mm-17596/

--
Chris Green
·

fred wrote:

Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a
water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not
great at soldering.
There are compression reducers if you don't fancy the end-feed solder
reducers

https://www.bes.co.uk/compression-reducing-coupling-12mm-x-10mm-17596
https://www.bes.co.uk/end-feed-reducing-coupling-12mm-x-10mm-f-x-f-7146

On 21/07/2020 14:35, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at soldering.



Is the 12mm actually a 1/2 inch tap connector screw thread?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedf...x-2-pack/64131

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 21/07/2020 15:27, alan_m wrote:
On 21/07/2020 14:35, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a
water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not
great at soldering.



Is the 12mm actually a 1/2 inch tap connector screw thread?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedf...x-2-pack/64131



Assuming a water connection.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In article ,
fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water
heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at
soldering.

Soldering end feed really couldn't be easier if you have a suitable
blowlamp and use decent flux.

--
*Do paediatricians play miniature golf on Wednesdays?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 3:27:14 PM UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 21/07/2020 14:35, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at soldering.



Is the 12mm actually a 1/2 inch tap connector screw thread?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedf...x-2-pack/64131

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

No its into a water heater on a boat

On 21/07/2020 15:46, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water
heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at
soldering.

Soldering end feed really couldn't be easier if you have a suitable
blowlamp and use decent flux.


And a heat mat/fire extinguisher/first aid kit.

IYKWIM

--
Adam

On 21/07/2020 17:00, ARW wrote:
On 21/07/2020 15:46, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water
heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at
soldering.

Soldering end feed really couldn't be easier if you have a suitable
blowlamp and use decent flux.


And a heat mat/fire extinguisher/first aid kit.

Mobile phone for ambulance and fire brigade......

:-)

On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at soldering.

Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

On 21/07/2020 18:07, newshound wrote:
On 21/07/2020 17:00, ARW wrote:
On 21/07/2020 15:46, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a
water
heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at
soldering.

Soldering end feed really couldn't be easier if you have a suitable
blowlamp and use decent flux.


And a heat mat/fire extinguisher/first aid kit.

Mobile phone for ambulance and fire brigade......

:-)

Not just me then?


--
Adam

wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe
to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ?
I'm not great at soldering.

Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead
of working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux
is supposed to encourage that. It works slightly better
if the pipe is still smooth with *original* smoothness,
not some hasty file-work or work with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

For a professional, you use a pipe cutter, not a hacksaw.
A pipe cutter leaves a very nice end on the pipe.
A hacksaw does not. A hack saw leaves burrs.
And no, using a file on the end of the work is also
a bad idea.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISSPlumbing.../dp/B07V7DLDX2

The very first thing a plumber does, on the job, is
discover all his pipe cutters are busted :-) That's
usually how it starts.

Paul

On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 22:33:59 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fred wrote:

Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe
to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ?
I'm not great at soldering.

Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead
of working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux
is supposed to encourage that. It works slightly better
if the pipe is still smooth with *original* smoothness,
not some hasty file-work or work with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

For a professional, you use a pipe cutter, not a hacksaw.
A pipe cutter leaves a very nice end on the pipe.
A hacksaw does not. A hack saw leaves burrs.
And no, using a file on the end of the work is also
a bad idea.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISSPlumbing.../dp/B07V7DLDX2

The very first thing a plumber does, on the job, is
discover all his pipe cutters are busted :-) That's
usually how it starts.

Paul


I use fine sandpaper to prepare pipes, and they solder no problem. Flux is absolutely not sufficient, spotlessness must occur first. I've seen too many failures at this cleaning stage, the guilty party then unable to work out why it won't solder. IME mechanical grinding is the easiest & surest way to get completely clean copper. You might get an acid bath to do it quicker, I don't solder enough pipe to really consider that option.


NT

On 21/07/2020 22:33, Paul wrote:

A hacksaw does not. A hack saw leaves burrs.

Hacksaw, pipe?

Oh, memories, we used to have a real expert on that around here ...


--
Adrian C

On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 3:21:58 PM UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
fred wrote:

Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a
water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not
great at soldering.
There are compression reducers if you don't fancy the end-feed solder
reducers

https://www.bes.co.uk/compression-reducing-coupling-12mm-x-10mm-17596
https://www.bes.co.uk/end-feed-reducing-coupling-12mm-x-10mm-f-x-f-7146

Damn me but I tried a Google search and didn't turn up anything useful. Manythanks

fred wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

fred wrote:

Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a
water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not
great at soldering.
There are compression reducers if you don't fancy the end-feed solder
reducers

https://www.bes.co.uk/compression-reducing-coupling-12mm-x-10mm-17596
https://www.bes.co.uk/end-feed-reducing-coupling-12mm-x-10mm-f-x-f-7146

Damn me but I tried a Google search and didn't turn up anything useful. Manythanks

Careful, I was thinking you wanted to connect 10mm tube to 12mm tube, so
those fittings probably won't directly do what you want, but would be ok
if you didn't mind a short section of 12mm pipe leading to the 10mm,
might look ugly though ...

On 22/07/2020 03:25:04, wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 22:33:59 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fred wrote:

Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe
to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way
? I'm not great at soldering.

Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them. Soldering
requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as "mechanical
grinding". In the small amount of experience I've had, using too
much abrasive on a pipe to a joint, spoils the fit. You want some
sort of "chemical cleanliness". Which is what the flux is supposed
to provide, but seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead of
working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux is supposed
to encourage that. It works slightly better if the pipe is still
smooth with *original* smoothness, not some hasty file-work or work
with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

For a professional, you use a pipe cutter, not a hacksaw. A pipe
cutter leaves a very nice end on the pipe. A hacksaw does not. A
hack saw leaves burrs. And no, using a file on the end of the work
is also a bad idea.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISSPlumbing.../dp/B07V7DLDX2



The very first thing a plumber does, on the job, is
discover all his pipe cutters are busted :-) That's usually how it
starts.

Paul


I use fine sandpaper to prepare pipes, and they solder no problem.

I use stainless steel scourers. No mess, no sand left behind.

Flux is absolutely not sufficient, spotlessness must occur first.

A new pipe is often clean enough, but I agree it is wise to clean to be
confident of a good joint.

I've seen too many failures at this cleaning stage, the guilty party
then unable to work out why it won't solder. IME mechanical grinding
is the easiest & surest way to get completely clean copper.


You might
get an acid bath to do it quicker, I don't solder enough pipe to
really consider that option.

Which is OTT.

In article ,
Paul wrote:
wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe
to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ?
I'm not great at soldering.

Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead
of working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux
is supposed to encourage that. It works slightly better
if the pipe is still smooth with *original* smoothness,
not some hasty file-work or work with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

Isn't steel wool an abrasive?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 17:33:56 -0400, Paul wrote:

You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness". Which is what the flux is
supposed to provide, but seldom does.

Good old acid flux was good enough on it's own with new pipe. The
modern non-acid isn't as good. Old pipe and the oxide has to be
mechanically removed, a quick rub around with a strip of 120 grit ali
oxide paper will do that.

... not some hasty file-work or work with 50-grit paper.
The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

Not surprised if your using a file or 50 grit.

For a professional, you use a pipe cutter, not a hacksaw.
A pipe cutter leaves a very nice end on the pipe.
A hacksaw does not. A hack saw leaves burrs.

So does a pipe cutter, how large depends on how enthusiastically the
pipe is cut. 2 rounds and there will be a large burr, 20 much less
but still there. The burr from a pipe cutter is less obvoius as it's
contigious around the edge. My pipe cutter has a hardened steel
triangle stored in the frame for removing the burr.

--
Cheers
Dave.

charles wrote:
In article ,
Paul wrote:
wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe
to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ?
I'm not great at soldering.
Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead
of working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux
is supposed to encourage that. It works slightly better
if the pipe is still smooth with *original* smoothness,
not some hasty file-work or work with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

Isn't steel wool an abrasive?


Yes.

I just noticed a proportionality, between how
aggressively I prepped a surface, and how it
didn't give me the result I wanted later.

The solder is flowing by capillary action. The space
between pipe and joint is reasonably tight. If you're
aggressive with the cleaning (sandpaper), then you'll
find the pipe kinda "floating" in the joint. It's
no longer a tight fit.

I don't have enough abrasives here, to find something
that cleans the copper, yet doesn't change the OD of
the pipe appreciably. Maybe some wet 1200 grit would work
or something. I don't have anything like that here.

For solder to "set" properly, you must not disturb the
molten solder while it cools. This means, if one
of the work pieces is "floating", you need something
(not your hand) to hold it in place until it cools.
Disturbed solder, is mechanically weaker solder.

Paul

On 22/07/2020 10:51:14, Paul wrote:
charles wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â* Paul wrote:
wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fredÂ* wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a
water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ?
I'm not great at soldering.
Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead
of working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux
is supposed to encourage that. It works slightly better
if the pipe is still smooth with *original* smoothness,
not some hasty file-work or work with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

Isn't steel wool an abrasive?


Yes.

I just noticed a proportionality, between how
aggressively I prepped a surface, and how it
didn't give me the result I wanted later.

The solder is flowing by capillary action. The space
between pipe and joint is reasonably tight. If you're
aggressive with the cleaning (sandpaper), then you'll
find the pipe kinda "floating" in the joint. It's
no longer a tight fit.

Wow, you have be sanding very aggressively to make such a big difference
in tube diameter.

I don't have enough abrasives here, to find something
that cleans the copper, yet doesn't change the OD of
the pipe appreciably. Maybe some wet 1200 grit would work
or something. I don't have anything like that here.


As I have said before, I use plain stainless steel scourers. Cheap and
very effective.

In article ,
Paul wrote:
Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

I'm a lover of EverFlux. I've tried soldering really grotty tube that was
lying around for ages as a trial, and on removing the fitting it was
perfectly tinned.

But still clean the tube with wire wool or cleaner strip.

If you are using a rosin flux, you do need to make sure things are clean,
though. With vicious stuff like EverFlux, make sure you wash any excess
off with water afterwards.

--
*PMS jokes aren't funny; period.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Paul wrote:
charles wrote:
In article ,
Paul wrote:
wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 14:35:19 UTC+1, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe
to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ?
I'm not great at soldering.
Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead
of working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux
is supposed to encourage that. It works slightly better
if the pipe is still smooth with *original* smoothness,
not some hasty file-work or work with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

Isn't steel wool an abrasive?


Yes.

I just noticed a proportionality, between how
aggressively I prepped a surface, and how it
didn't give me the result I wanted later.

The solder is flowing by capillary action. The space
between pipe and joint is reasonably tight. If you're
aggressive with the cleaning (sandpaper), then you'll
find the pipe kinda "floating" in the joint. It's
no longer a tight fit.

I don't have enough abrasives here, to find something
that cleans the copper, yet doesn't change the OD of
the pipe appreciably. Maybe some wet 1200 grit would work
or something. I don't have anything like that here.

Steel wool.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 09:02:13 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

I use fine sandpaper to prepare pipes, and they solder no problem.

I use stainless steel scourers. No mess, no sand left behind.

Same here, although if one end is rather old I've some grades of abrasive
pads - don't know what the abrasive is - then SS to remove any abrasive. The
pad can be stuffed into the female part and does a good job.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 21/07/2020 18:07, newshound wrote:
On 21/07/2020 17:00, ARW wrote:
On 21/07/2020 15:46, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a
water
heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at
soldering.

Soldering end feed really couldn't be easier if you have a suitable
blowlamp and use decent flux.


And a heat mat/fire extinguisher/first aid kit.

Mobile phone for ambulance and fire brigade......

:-)

Very understanding partner after you drop something hot onto
the kitchen vinyl flooring, having burnt your fingers :-(

On 21/07/2020 15:50, fred wrote:
On Tuesday, July 21, 2020 at 3:27:14 PM UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 21/07/2020 14:35, fred wrote:
Is such a thing available? I wish to connect 10mm copper pipe to a water heater with a 12mm connection. Is there an easy way ? I'm not great at soldering.



Is the 12mm actually a 1/2 inch tap connector screw thread?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedf...x-2-pack/64131

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

No its into a water heater on a boat


Even better. Bilge full of LPG gas ?? !!!! :-)

On Wednesday, 22 July 2020 09:02:14 UTC+1, Fredxx wrote:
On 22/07/2020 03:25:04, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 July 2020 22:33:59 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them. Soldering
requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as "mechanical
grinding". In the small amount of experience I've had, using too
much abrasive on a pipe to a joint, spoils the fit. You want some
sort of "chemical cleanliness". Which is what the flux is supposed
to provide, but seldom does.

The solder has to flow and wet the surface freely, instead of
working in fits and starts and leaving gaps. The flux is supposed
to encourage that. It works slightly better if the pipe is still
smooth with *original* smoothness, not some hasty file-work or work
with 50-grit paper.

The minute I touch abrasive to work, it's game over for me.

For a professional, you use a pipe cutter, not a hacksaw. A pipe
cutter leaves a very nice end on the pipe. A hacksaw does not. A
hack saw leaves burrs. And no, using a file on the end of the work
is also a bad idea.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISSPlumbing.../dp/B07V7DLDX2



The very first thing a plumber does, on the job, is
discover all his pipe cutters are busted :-) That's usually how it
starts.

Paul


I use fine sandpaper to prepare pipes, and they solder no problem.

I use stainless steel scourers. No mess, no sand left behind.

You can use anything. But leaving flecks of steel behind is a recipe for later premature failure, and steel scourers are prone to doing that.


Flux is absolutely not sufficient, spotlessness must occur first.

A new pipe is often clean enough, but I agree it is wise to clean to be
confident of a good joint.

if you don't you get failures


NT

On Wednesday, 22 July 2020 11:29:42 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Paul wrote:
Stick your 10mm pipe inside 12mm & solder them.
Soldering requires spotless cleanliness & flux.


NT

And spotless cleanliness should not be interpreted as
"mechanical grinding". In the small amount of experience
I've had, using too much abrasive on a pipe to a joint,
spoils the fit. You want some sort of "chemical cleanliness".
Which is what the flux is supposed to provide, but
seldom does.

I'm a lover of EverFlux. I've tried soldering really grotty tube that was
lying around for ages as a trial, and on removing the fitting it was
perfectly tinned.

But still clean the tube with wire wool or cleaner strip.

If you are using a rosin flux, you do need to make sure things are clean,
though. With vicious stuff like EverFlux, make sure you wash any excess
off with water afterwards.

Rosin is not a good choice for plumbing, though one can use it if nothing else is around. Clean perfectly.


NT