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#1
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Latest project - beech workbench
Hi,
I finished the latest project (a beech workbench). Thanks to the folks who helped me in an earlier thread regarding the choice of beech vs maple. This is my first use of beech, and it was really a pleasure to work. Here is a link: http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperki...orkbench04.htm Cheers, Nate |
#2
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Outstanding!! How was the beech to work?? I've never
worked with it. Is it like cherry or birch?? Harder than maple?? You must have a pretty good lumber yard - was it special order?? Am just getting ready to start my bench, and I have a lot of decisions to make- wood, plans, vises, etc. Am trying to collect all the info I can. Thanks for sharing the pics. Regards, Roy Hickman "Nate Perkins" wrote in message om... Hi, I finished the latest project (a beech workbench). Thanks to the folks who helped me in an earlier thread regarding the choice of beech vs maple. This is my first use of beech, and it was really a pleasure to work. Here is a link: http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperki...orkbench04.htm Cheers, Nate |
#3
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Nice....I especially like the dovetail work...very nice!
Layne On 28 Aug 2004 18:35:38 -0700, (Nate Perkins) wrote: snip Here is a link: http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperki...orkbench04.htm Cheers, Nate |
#5
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I finished the latest project (a beech workbench). Thanks to the folks who helped me in an earlier thread regarding the choice of beech vs maple. This is my first use of beech, and it was really a pleasure to work. Super nice bench Nate! That beech should be excellent for it, a dense cross grain. My chisel handles are euro-beech and can take a wooden mallet. But most imp- ressive is that dovetail work on the tail vise! I cannot imagine how that could be done with a router, the long and the short tails, very fancy work, and looks very tricky to do. Many congrats! BTW what was your B/F cost? Alex |
#6
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One word, three letters. WOW!
A WHOA! comes to mind also. UA100 |
#7
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"AArDvarK" wrote:
Super nice bench Nate! That beech should be excellent for it, a dense cross grain. My chisel handles are euro-beech and can take a wooden mallet. But most imp- ressive is that dovetail work on the tail vise! I cannot imagine how that could be done with a router, the long and the short tails, very fancy work, and looks very tricky to do. Many congrats! BTW what was your B/F cost? Alex Hi Alex, Many thanks. I cut the dovetails by hand; they are double half-blinds on the tail vise ends. It really isn't all that hard to do hand dovetails ... There is a good article in FWW April '03 that shows the procedure. Scott Landis' "The Workbench Book" also shows several examples. I paid $3.20 a bf for 8/4 beech. This is around $0.20 less than what I can buy 4/4 hard maple for here. The guy I know at the lumber yard said they got a good deal by buying a large quantity out of Germany. I get a 10% discount at the lumber yard because they know me as a regular customer (I'm a small potatoes buyer, but they are trying to encourage the local amateurs like me). Cheers, Nate |
#8
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Lucky dawg, I got wood shipped from N.Y. to So. Calif that ended up
less than half of what I would have paid if bought locally and that included shipping! Buy more potatoes! On 29 Aug 2004 07:14:02 -0700, (Nate Perkins) wrote: I get a 10% discount at the lumber yard because they know me as a regular customer (I'm a small potatoes buyer, but they are trying to encourage the local amateurs like me). |
#9
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"Roy Hickman" wrote in message ...
Outstanding!! How was the beech to work?? I've never worked with it. Is it like cherry or birch?? Harder than maple?? You must have a pretty good lumber yard - was it special order?? Am just getting ready to start my bench, and I have a lot of decisions to make- wood, plans, vises, etc. Am trying to collect all the info I can. Thanks for sharing the pics. Regards, Roy Hickman Thanks, Roy. The beech was really a pleasure to work. It seems pretty hard (almost as hard as hard maple, I think), but it was not bad to machine. It mills to a very sharp edge like hard maple does. Much less burning than either cherry or hard maple. No sap pockets or pitch, and the wood was very uniform without much in the way of knots and all nearly quartersawn. Kind of looks a little like fine-grained white oak with less ray and no splintering. Good luck on your bench. It sure feels like a luxury to have something better than MDF on 2x4s :-) Cheers, Nate p.s. I looked at a lot of ways to make the end vise, and the simplest and most bulletproof way seemed to be to use the sliding end vise hardware (the kind with a screw and comes with three plates). It's at Lee Valley, Rockler, and probably other places as well. |
#10
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Mark Blum wrote in message ...
In article , says... Hi, I finished the latest project (a beech workbench). Thanks to the folks who helped me in an earlier thread regarding the choice of beech vs maple. This is my first use of beech, and it was really a pleasure to work. Here is a link: http://home.earthlink.net/~nateperki...orkbench04.htm Cheers, Nate Great job Nate, it looks fantastic. What are the dimensions of the top? -Mark Hi Mark, The top's 54" long x 26" deep. It's about 3-1/2" thick and stands about 33" off the ground. If I had a bigger shop I would have made it another foot or two longer. Cheers, Nate |
#11
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Unisaw A100 wrote in message . ..
One word, three letters. WOW! A WHOA! comes to mind also. UA100 Thanks :-) |
#12
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Unisaw A100 wrote in
: One word, three letters. WOW! A WHOA! comes to mind also. UA100 And is this an acronym? Or just deserved praise? Patriarch, recalling AURT and the GTHRT... |
#13
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Hi Mark,
The top's 54" long x 26" deep. It's about 3-1/2" thick and stands about 33" off the ground. If I had a bigger shop I would have made it another foot or two longer. Cheers, Nate Thanks Nate. I thought the top looked kind of short compared to what most people build, but I certainly understand shop limitations. I just completed a bench of my own (pictures at my site) and I also had to keep it kind of short due to the size of my basement shop. You did an excellent job on the tail vise as well. I originally wanted to do the exact same type of dovetails on mine as you did. In the end I decided to keep it simple since I was not sure of my ability to cut such complicated dovetails by hand. I am envious of yours though, they look great. Have you cut a lot of similar dovetails previously? Again, good job on your bench! -Mark http://home.mindspring.com/~hobbesct |
#14
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And is this an acronym? Or just deserved praise?
Patriarch, recalling AURT and the GTHRT... Upside down it spells MOM. UA100 |
#15
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" wrote in message . ..
Lucky dawg, I got wood shipped from N.Y. to So. Calif that ended up less than half of what I would have paid if bought locally and that included shipping! Buy more potatoes! Yeah, these guys know I'm an amateur and I do it for fun. Because I do it for fun, they know I'm not going to hassle them about a buck or two, and I'm more likely to smile at 'em as I walk out the door. The cool thing is now most of them know me by name ... last week one of them actually stashed away a prime piece of dense large-eyed birdseye maple in the back and offered it to me when I came in. I wish more local businesses would thrive like this one is doing. I'd much rather support a community business that provides great service .... as opposed to having to self-check myself out at Home Despot. On 29 Aug 2004 07:14:02 -0700, (Nate Perkins) wrote: I get a 10% discount at the lumber yard because they know me as a regular customer (I'm a small potatoes buyer, but they are trying to encourage the local amateurs like me). |
#16
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I paid $3.20 a bf for 8/4 beech. This is around $0.20 less than what I can buy 4/4 hard maple for here. The guy I know at the lumber yard said they got a good deal by buying a large quantity out of Germany. I get a 10% discount at the lumber yard because they know me as a regular customer (I'm a small potatoes buyer, but they are trying to encourage the local amateurs like me). Around my parts (WA) 4/4 (13/16") beech goes for $3.99 a bf, there is no quarter sawn and there is no 8/4 stock. I made several beech panels (8) for a pedestal bed vs making rail and stile type construction I would use if I did it again and I found the flatsawn beech to cup quite badly. Alan |
#17
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Very nice!
I especially like the tusk tenon idea and appearance. How did you connect the top to the trestle? John |
#18
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John Poole wrote in message om...
Very nice! I especially like the tusk tenon idea and appearance. How did you connect the top to the trestle? John Hi John, It just has a big lag screw going through each side of the trestle and into the lower side of the top. The screw in in the center of each side of the trestle only, so that there won't be problems with the top expansion. It doesn't really take much to hold it down because the top is pretty heavy. Cheers, Nate |
#19
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Mark Blum wrote:
Thanks Nate. I thought the top looked kind of short compared to what most people build, but I certainly understand shop limitations. I just completed a bench of my own (pictures at my site) and I also had to keep it kind of short due to the size of my basement shop. You did an excellent job on the tail vise as well. I originally wanted to do the exact same type of dovetails on mine as you did. In the end I decided to keep it simple since I was not sure of my ability to cut such complicated dovetails by hand. I am envious of yours though, they look great. Have you cut a lot of similar dovetails previously? Again, good job on your bench! -Mark http://home.mindspring.com/~hobbesct Hey, nice workbench! You did a great job on it. I think I recall seeing your bench posted on an earlier thread, and admiring the great job you did. The website also does a great job documenting the construction. I've made a few handcut dovetails previously (on smaller items), but this was the first time I've done double dovetails. Honestly, they are not very difficult and these are far from perfect -- you just can't see the little gaps very well in the pictures. The only thing about making really large ones is that there's a lot of wood you have to hog away, so it's a good idea to drill most of it out with a Forstner bit on the drill press. The through dovetails on your bench are well made and are very strong, and I am sure they will last you a very long time. Cheers, Nate |
#20
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says...
Hey, nice workbench! You did a great job on it. I think I recall seeing your bench posted on an earlier thread, and admiring the great job you did. The website also does a great job documenting the construction. I've made a few handcut dovetails previously (on smaller items), but this was the first time I've done double dovetails. Honestly, they are not very difficult and these are far from perfect -- you just can't see the little gaps very well in the pictures. The only thing about making really large ones is that there's a lot of wood you have to hog away, so it's a good idea to drill most of it out with a Forstner bit on the drill press. The through dovetails on your bench are well made and are very strong, and I am sure they will last you a very long time. Well maybe I'll do the double dovetails on my next bench, in another twenty years or so. :-) -Mark http://home.mindspring.com/~hobbesct |
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