I have a woodworking shop that I also let my wife occassionally park
her car in. Needless to say, space is tight. Anyway, my request is to
find some creative ways to store wood. I have some full 8-10 foot
long 5-8" boards, some 4-6 foot and a bunch of smaller boards, that
are mostly left overs from other projects, but that I know the second
I throw a piece out, I will need that exact size in another project.
In the past, I have laid them all flat on some 12" shelves. The
problem is when you want a board on the bottom, you have to unload the
whole shelf, which RPMO. So, I am thinking of two solutions.

1) store the wood on end. Is there and advantage or disadvantage to
storing wood on end vs. flat?
2) have more shelves, maybe adjustable, so I would have only 1-3
boards high laying flat on a horizontal shelf.

Any good plans or ideas regarding this topic will be appreciated.

George

"George" wrote in message
om...


I have a woodworking shop that I also let my wife occassionally park
her car in. Needless to say, space is tight. Anyway, my request is to
find some creative ways to store wood. I have some full 8-10 foot

We get both our cars in the shop. The wood storage is on my side, to be
fair. I put mine up high, above the door-opening, head-hitting height. Yeah,
more work to get it down.

I've been told, that you risk warping if you stack lumber on end. Oddly
enough, Paxton's front-end displays here have everything stacked vertically.
My lumber rack is 1/2" galvanized pipe, 12" long, drilled into every other
stud at a 5* angle.

I keep a fair amount of lumber hanging in the garage from the rafters.
I just have leftover 2 x 12's every few feet that are suspended from the
rafters by chains. If you put enough of these up, you may not need to
stack the wood so deeply anymore.
Mark L.

George wrote:
snip

So, I am thinking of two solutions.

1) store the wood on end. Is there and advantage or disadvantage to
storing wood on end vs. flat?
2) have more shelves, maybe adjustable, so I would have only 1-3
boards high laying flat on a horizontal shelf.

Any good plans or ideas regarding this topic will be appreciated.

George

Patrick Conroy responds:

I've been told, that you risk warping if you stack lumber on end. Oddly
enough, Paxton's front-end displays here have everything stacked vertically.
My lumber rack is 1/2" galvanized pipe, 12" long, drilled into every other
stud at a 5* angle.

You do risk warping, but the risk depends on conditions ranging from the angle
of the stack to the humidity levels and heat levels. You'll probably note that
Paxton, and other large wood supplies, stack their retail store wood on end. If
you get into the warehouse you'll see the same kind of stacking you might see
in a furniture manufacturer's wood warehouse: flat. The shorter term vertical
stack should be harmless. Over a longer term, it isn't a world beater of an
idea. But I have no idea what the "longer term" is. I've got some oak and
sycamore that has been stacked on end for upwards of two years, with no
problems.

Charlie Self
"A judge is a law student who marks his own examination papers." H. L. Mencken

Interesting enough David Marks stores a lot of his wood on end (see the
wood selection episode). I'm paranoid and store flat, but with my ever
increasing stash I might switch some of it to verticle storage.

-Bruce



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(George) wrote in message . com...
I have a woodworking shop that I also let my wife occassionally park
her car in. Needless to say, space is tight. Anyway, my request is to
find some creative ways to store wood. I have some full 8-10 foot
long 5-8" boards, some 4-6 foot and a bunch of smaller boards, that
are mostly left overs from other projects, but that I know the second
I throw a piece out, I will need that exact size in another project.
In the past, I have laid them all flat on some 12" shelves. The
problem is when you want a board on the bottom, you have to unload the
whole shelf, which RPMO. So, I am thinking of two solutions.

1) store the wood on end. Is there and advantage or disadvantage to
storing wood on end vs. flat?
2) have more shelves, maybe adjustable, so I would have only 1-3
boards high laying flat on a horizontal shelf.

Any good plans or ideas regarding this topic will be appreciated.

George

Hi Guys, You actually want your kiln dried lumber dead piled. You only
sticker it when your lumber is air dried or in the process. You don't
want the air flow if it's kiln dried. Use jacket boards you don't care
about on the bottom layer and on top. Jana

Jana,
I assume an exception to this would be when I buy a bunch of KD lumber
that I plan to build with, I should sticker it so the moisture level
will euqalize with my shop air (for several months) before dead piling?

-Bruce

Jana wrote:



Hi Guys, You actually want your kiln dried lumber dead piled. You only
sticker it when your lumber is air dried or in the process. You don't
want the air flow if it's kiln dried. Use jacket boards you don't care
about on the bottom layer and on top. Jana



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Depends on the season, but a week or two should do for 4/4 stock.

You also want the wood flat stacked for fire protection reasons. Less
surfaces (actually edges) with easy access to oxygen means less fire danger.

"BruceR" wrote in message
...
Jana,
I assume an exception to this would be when I buy a bunch of KD lumber
that I plan to build with, I should sticker it so the moisture level
will euqalize with my shop air (for several months) before dead piling?

BruceR wrote in message ...
Jana,
I assume an exception to this would be when I buy a bunch of KD lumber
that I plan to build with, I should sticker it so the moisture level
will euqalize with my shop air (for several months) before dead piling?

-Bruce

Jana wrote:



Hi Guys, You actually want your kiln dried lumber dead piled. You only
sticker it when your lumber is air dried or in the process. You don't
want the air flow if it's kiln dried. Use jacket boards you don't care
about on the bottom layer and on top. Jana

Hi Bruce,
I wouldn't. You don't want it picking up moisture at all. It
wouldn't take that long to acclimate. It'll do it on it's own while
you're working on your project. It's not really that touchy of a
situation...I mean, is the shop the same as the house where the piece
will end up? Kiln drying shrinks or sets the cells in the wood, so
unless you have it piled on the garage floor or some other obvious
place it would pick up a lot of moisture, it really should be just
fine....Now that I'm writing, you have me thinking...My views are with
our lumber that I know has been dried right and hasn't been sitting
around in a warehouse or containers picking up moisture already. Jana

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Thanks Jana,
My situation is opposit of most people. Garage^H^H^H^H^H^H err shop is
at about 6% humidity when I do most projects. House will be about the same.
Drying/storage conditions of the lumber I have is unknown, but usually I
accumulate the stuff over a year before beginning the larger projects. I
usually try to buy 5/4 rough since I usually can't decide on dimensions
until I get started.
-Bruce

Hi Bruce,

I wouldn't. You don't want it picking up moisture at all. It
wouldn't take that long to acclimate. It'll do it on it's own while
you're working on your project. It's not really that touchy of a
situation...I mean, is the shop the same as the house where the piece
will end up? Kiln drying shrinks or sets the cells in the wood, so
unless you have it piled on the garage floor or some other obvious
place it would pick up a lot of moisture, it really should be just
fine....Now that I'm writing, you have me thinking...My views are with
our lumber that I know has been dried right and hasn't been sitting
around in a warehouse or containers picking up moisture already. Jana

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