I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.

On Mon, 19 Jun 2017 19:23:32 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.



No spark means no boom - so ground the fan to prevent static buildup,
and locate the switch in fresh air or use a sealed / electronic
switch. Being a shaded pole or split phase motor with no starter
switch the motor should never spark. Forget any motor with brushes or
mechanical / centrigugal starting switches.

On Mon, 19 Jun 2017 19:23:32 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.





It seems that you are using bathroom fan specifications -
and applying them to paint-room ... ?
40 % more CFM's
Perhaps bathroom fan specifications are related to removing
moist warm air - rather than fumes from solvents ?
Some sort of recommended CFM for a paint room
might be a start.
John T.

On Jun 19, 2017, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.
..
Does it run on DC? It looks like it should. May be an old Vortex unit.

..
War story: I lived and worked in Sweden for a year, around 1974. I was doing
a lot of soldering, and the rosin smoke was giving me headaches, so I asked
my business partner for a low-speed fan to blow the smaoke away. He went down
to the sub-basement of the large condo block he lived in, and came up with
this beautiful old enameled cast iron with brass table fan, which I cleaned
up and re-oiled, and then plugged in. It sat there humming slightly and
moving slowly. Lightbulb! Loked at the nameplate - Gleichstrom! (DC) That fan
had been in the basement since the 1920s, when Sweden converted to
alternating current, because it was too good (and too expensive?) to just
throw away. So I added a silicon rectifier bridge to the fan, and it worked
like new. It will outlast us all.

Joe Gwinn

On 6/19/2017 10:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.





Read up on LEL or Lower Explosion Limits. The ability to explode
depends on the concentration of the gas. Most flammable gases have to
be in the 1.5% to 5% by volume to explode. Given the list of things you
are using it is doubtful you will ever reach that concentration.
https://www.mathesongas.com/pdfs/pro...ve-Limits-.pdf

Spraying lacquer may be a concern but I doubt that a wiping stain would
ever get near the LEL. If you spend a day at the bean festival farting
may be a concern and your wife will probably confine you to the shop
that night too.

On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

The goal is to use the basement air as well as the outside air as makeup air
so that all fumes are drawn toward the fan and ultimately out of the house.
While the "fan through the open door" has worked in the past, I have to keep
the screen door open which lets bugs in at night. It also makes it inconvenient
to use that door since the fan/stool blocks the entrance.

On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......




The goal is to use the basement air as well as the outside air as makeup air
so that all fumes are drawn toward the fan and ultimately out of the house.
While the "fan through the open door" has worked in the past, I have to keep
the screen door open which lets bugs in at night. It also makes it inconvenient
to use that door since the fan/stool blocks the entrance.


I think most explosions happen because some one does not vent properly.
IIRC paint booths are pressurized so that the vapors exit through the
walls and ceilings to prevent the accumulate into a concentrated area.

On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic. The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

On Tue, 20 Jun 2017 09:58:03 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic. The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?
Soimthing missing in HIS "attic"??

On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic. The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic. The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out
access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling
joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will
simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic.
The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned
over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the
air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least
the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!



A what in a where? LOL. NO, I have not.

On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 8:43:22 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out
access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling
joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will
simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic.
The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned
over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the
air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least
the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!



A what in a where? LOL. NO, I have not.

The hardest part can be locating the hole so it lands where you want it in the joist space
above the foundation, taking into consideration the siding and other factors on the exterior.

One trick that I have used is to chuck a piece of a wire hanger into a drill, locate where I
want the center of the 4" hole to be on the inside and use the wire to drill a small hole through
rim joist, siding, etc.

Then I go outside, find the end of the wire and adjust the "center" if required/possible. Now I
can drill the big hole from the outside where I typically have more room as opposed to trying to drill the hole up in the joist space.

That's the plan for tonight.

On 6/21/2017 12:33 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 8:43:22 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out
access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling
joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will
simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic.
The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned
over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the
air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least
the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!



A what in a where? LOL. NO, I have not.

The hardest part can be locating the hole so it lands where you want it in the joist space
above the foundation, taking into consideration the siding and other factors on the exterior.

One trick that I have used is to chuck a piece of a wire hanger into a drill, locate where I
want the center of the 4" hole to be on the inside and use the wire to drill a small hole through
rim joist, siding, etc.

Then I go outside, find the end of the wire and adjust the "center" if required/possible. Now I
can drill the big hole from the outside where I typically have more room as opposed to trying to drill the hole up in the joist space.

That's the plan for tonight.



We will need progress pictures. ;~)

On Tue, 20 Jun 2017 17:55:07 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic. The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!
A lot less fun than drilling it through the brick outside the rim
joist - - -

On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 7:07:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/21/2017 12:33 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 8:43:22 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out
access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling
joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will
simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic.
The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned
over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the
air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least
the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!



A what in a where? LOL. NO, I have not.

The hardest part can be locating the hole so it lands where you want it in the joist space
above the foundation, taking into consideration the siding and other factors on the exterior.

One trick that I have used is to chuck a piece of a wire hanger into a drill, locate where I
want the center of the 4" hole to be on the inside and use the wire to drill a small hole through
rim joist, siding, etc.

Then I go outside, find the end of the wire and adjust the "center" if required/possible. Now I
can drill the big hole from the outside where I typically have more room as opposed to trying to drill the hole up in the joist space.

That's the plan for tonight.



We will need progress pictures. ;~)

Sorry, the best I can offer are completed pictures. Pretty boring.

Interior:

http://i.imgur.com/CCgtZqk.jpg

Exterior:

http://i.imgur.com/Joa2zFv.jpg

The fan exhausts under my deck, whose surface is about 6.5' off the ground.
(Remember, it's a walk out basement)

Drilling the hole was an adventure. I had to go through the deck's ledger
board, the cedar shake siding, then the rim joist. Roughly 5" in total
depth, but with 1.5" gap between the 2x ledger board and 2x rim joist.
The biggest issue was that the bottom of the ledger board is flush with the
bottom of the sill plate, not the bottom of the rim joist. I had to find
a vent cover that I could place high enough on the ledger board that the
hole would clear the sill plate. I wanted to use one with flaps, but the
housing on those didn't allow me to mount it high enough.

I drilled a series of holes with a 1 3/8" spade bit and then rounded it
off (sort of) with a reciprocating saw. The hole is far from perfect, but
caulk behind the vent cover and spray foam around the duct sealed it
nicely.

I tested it by hanging a piece of toilet paper on the screen door opposite
the fan. The toilet paper hangs straight down until I turn the fan on. Within
2 seconds the bottom of the toilet paper moves about 2" away from the screen,
so I know I am getting good air flow all the way across the room.

I'm ready to paint the repurposed hutch-kitchen island, so we'll see how
well it keeps the paint fumes from smelling up the house.

On 6/24/2017 7:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 7:07:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/21/2017 12:33 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 8:43:22 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out
access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling
joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will
simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic.
The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned
over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the
air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least
the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!



A what in a where? LOL. NO, I have not.

The hardest part can be locating the hole so it lands where you want it in the joist space
above the foundation, taking into consideration the siding and other factors on the exterior.

One trick that I have used is to chuck a piece of a wire hanger into a drill, locate where I
want the center of the 4" hole to be on the inside and use the wire to drill a small hole through
rim joist, siding, etc.

Then I go outside, find the end of the wire and adjust the "center" if required/possible. Now I
can drill the big hole from the outside where I typically have more room as opposed to trying to drill the hole up in the joist space.

That's the plan for tonight.



We will need progress pictures. ;~)

Sorry, the best I can offer are completed pictures. Pretty boring.

Interior:

http://i.imgur.com/CCgtZqk.jpg

Exterior:

http://i.imgur.com/Joa2zFv.jpg

The fan exhausts under my deck, whose surface is about 6.5' off the ground.
(Remember, it's a walk out basement)

Drilling the hole was an adventure. I had to go through the deck's ledger
board, the cedar shake siding, then the rim joist. Roughly 5" in total
depth, but with 1.5" gap between the 2x ledger board and 2x rim joist.
The biggest issue was that the bottom of the ledger board is flush with the
bottom of the sill plate, not the bottom of the rim joist. I had to find
a vent cover that I could place high enough on the ledger board that the
hole would clear the sill plate. I wanted to use one with flaps, but the
housing on those didn't allow me to mount it high enough.

I drilled a series of holes with a 1 3/8" spade bit and then rounded it
off (sort of) with a reciprocating saw. The hole is far from perfect, but
caulk behind the vent cover and spray foam around the duct sealed it
nicely.

I tested it by hanging a piece of toilet paper on the screen door opposite
the fan. The toilet paper hangs straight down until I turn the fan on. Within
2 seconds the bottom of the toilet paper moves about 2" away from the screen,
so I know I am getting good air flow all the way across the room.

I'm ready to paint the repurposed hutch-kitchen island, so we'll see how
well it keeps the paint fumes from smelling up the house.



Did I see a glowing ember in the shadows? ;!)

On Saturday, June 24, 2017 at 1:11:21 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/24/2017 7:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 7:07:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/21/2017 12:33 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 8:43:22 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 7:24:40 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 11:58 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:11:07 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/20/2017 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:55:48 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/19/2017 9:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've often heard that using a bathroom exhaust fan to exhaust finishing odors
is bad idea, but I'm sure there are certain conditions that would have to be
present for it to really be a danger.

Consider this room:

9' x 12' x 7'
South West corner: A door that opens to the main part of the basement
North West corner: A door that opens to the great outdoors (screened)

Consider this idea:

Mount a 140 CFM bathroom exhaust fan in the North East corner (opposite
the 2 doors). If my calculations are right, that's about 40% more than
the minimum CFM for a bathroom of that size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0KV5J0

Planned uses: Occasionally exhaust odors from primer, paint, mineral spirits,
oil based stains, oil based poly, farting, etc. No spraying. Brush or wipe-on
only. Small projects or small parts of large projects. e.g. stain a headboard,
paint a dresser, etc. Not to be used when the air is dusty, although
adding a holder for a furnace filter is a possibility.

What would it take for this to go boom?

FWIW, the fan shown below, placed on a stool by the door to the great
outdoors hasn't blown the place up yet. Of course, it's only been about 35
years, so there's still time.

http://i.imgur.com/QzieJU1.jpg

That thing is a beast. I don't know the CFM rating, but it'll dry a pair
of jeans in about an hour.




I am no expert on this but IMHO any "not rated for explosive fumes" fan
can cause an explosion if the air to fuel mixture is right.
One step to insuring that the air fuel mixture is not right is to have
the fan on BEFORE you mix the fuel into the air. Read that as keeping
the fumes dispersed before they have time to accumulate. IF the fuel
concentration is to low to begin with there is less chance of the fan or
it's switch creating the spark in the explosive environment.

Personally I would not draw fresh air in to exhaust out through a small
fan. If the fan does not exhaust directly out side, or if the duct has
a leak in the attic, you might be causing a dangerous situation in your
attic, or where ever the duct work runs.

I would pressurize the room to vent fumes out the large doors. Run the
exhaust fan backwards. Or put a fan on the south door blowing in and a
fan on the north door blowing out. AND another fan in the room to keep
the air moving.

The fan will exhaust to the exterior via a 4" rigid duct, through the rim joist,
just like a dryer vent would. The fan will be less than 4' from the exterior
vent with no turns that will obstruct air flow.

And that scenario would scare me to death, you have a carburetor
concentrating the fumes into a small exit hole and those exhaust ducts
are designed to deliver non combustibles so if they leak no danger. In
this case if they leak into your attic.......


I don't understand your attic concern.

Perhaps I should explain. This room is in the basement and has walk-out
access to the back yard. The 4' duct will run in the exposed ceiling
joist bay. Fan in joist bay, duct in same joist
bay, out through the rim joist and into the back yard. Any leaks will
simply return right back into
the room after passing through the fan. Nothing goes up to the attic.
The duct is all within the
same room right up until it leaves the house.

Any leaks would simply mean that not all of the air is being turned
over. I'm sure the "fan by
the door" method I've been using for 35 years isn't turning over the
air efficiently considering
it is on the same wall as the interior door to the basement. At least
the new fan will be on the
opposite side of the room from the 2 doors, drawing make up air in and across the room.

Am I missing something regarding your "leak into the attic" concern?

No, I was missing where you live. LOL We have no floor joists except
between floors, no basement. I thought the joists you were talking
about would be in the attic or between floors. In other words all enclosed.

Ah! It all makes sense now. ;-)

I take it you've never had the pleasure of drilling a 4" hole for an exhaust
vent in a 2x rim joist above the cinder block foundation wall. It's pure
joy!



A what in a where? LOL. NO, I have not.

The hardest part can be locating the hole so it lands where you want it in the joist space
above the foundation, taking into consideration the siding and other factors on the exterior.

One trick that I have used is to chuck a piece of a wire hanger into a drill, locate where I
want the center of the 4" hole to be on the inside and use the wire to drill a small hole through
rim joist, siding, etc.

Then I go outside, find the end of the wire and adjust the "center" if required/possible. Now I
can drill the big hole from the outside where I typically have more room as opposed to trying to drill the hole up in the joist space.

That's the plan for tonight.



We will need progress pictures. ;~)

Sorry, the best I can offer are completed pictures. Pretty boring.

Interior:

http://i.imgur.com/CCgtZqk.jpg

Exterior:

http://i.imgur.com/Joa2zFv.jpg

The fan exhausts under my deck, whose surface is about 6.5' off the ground.
(Remember, it's a walk out basement)

Drilling the hole was an adventure. I had to go through the deck's ledger
board, the cedar shake siding, then the rim joist. Roughly 5" in total
depth, but with 1.5" gap between the 2x ledger board and 2x rim joist.
The biggest issue was that the bottom of the ledger board is flush with the
bottom of the sill plate, not the bottom of the rim joist. I had to find
a vent cover that I could place high enough on the ledger board that the
hole would clear the sill plate. I wanted to use one with flaps, but the
housing on those didn't allow me to mount it high enough.

I drilled a series of holes with a 1 3/8" spade bit and then rounded it
off (sort of) with a reciprocating saw. The hole is far from perfect, but
caulk behind the vent cover and spray foam around the duct sealed it
nicely.

I tested it by hanging a piece of toilet paper on the screen door opposite
the fan. The toilet paper hangs straight down until I turn the fan on. Within
2 seconds the bottom of the toilet paper moves about 2" away from the screen,
so I know I am getting good air flow all the way across the room.

I'm ready to paint the repurposed hutch-kitchen island, so we'll see how
well it keeps the paint fumes from smelling up the house.



Did I see a glowing ember in the shadows? ;!)

That's not as funny as it may appear to be. I seriously need some
new reciprocating saw blades. I had to turn on my old exhaust fan to
clear the smoke I created while installing the new one.