https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Leon, Once your stuff is seen it cannot be unseen from memory.

Here is the last bed frame case you did. On this one it looks like you
installed a false drawer front where the nightstand is. Did you hinge
it for access?

#2 on your personal bed casing, captain style or whatever. It looks
like you have a "hidden drawer" in the center. Am I correct? and is
the purpose long term storage and keeping the exterior drawer shallow
enough, say 20" so that they can be fully opened if a dresser or Chest
of Drawers were nearby and yet still be pulled out for access to the
center drawer?

#3 Did you put a piece of masonite, or thin plywood under the drawers
to prevent things like mice coming up, or something falling out of a
drawer?

#4 is the top plywood easily removable?

#5 on your bed it looks like you have a metal strap going around the
toe kick piece, if it is, why?

#6 took a good look at your mounting to the head and foot board, NICE!

# 7 is it suitable for a California King size bed?

Reason for asking, in shopping for a mattress and possible adjustable
bed base one vendor has something similar but only two drawers per
side and it was covered in gray cloth material, like a box frame might
have. It was ok, but 800 bucks for it with a roll around bed frame
under that. Max of 1/2 in sides on the drawer, and it got me to
thinking of all the lost room in the center of the bed. and no access
to the space near the head board. So I looked up your old posts found
the link to the pic above, and I am so very glad you left it up there.
Plus right about now I was wishing you were not that far away. I
just might use the old bed frame for now, and make the case after I
can get to the Kitchen cabinets. Sure wish I had Mac's new workshop
area.

On 4/21/2017 10:22 PM, OFWW wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Leon, Once your stuff is seen it cannot be unseen from memory.

Down here in the southern area of the country a comment like that is not
necessarily a good thing. LOL



Here is the last bed frame case you did. On this one it looks like you
installed a false drawer front where the nightstand is. Did you hinge
it for access?

Actually, next to last, last summer. After that I build another for my son.
But to answer your question on this particular bed, No. Nor did I do
that on the two before that. BUT! on the actual last one for my son and
his soon to be better half I used cabinet door magnets to hold the false
drawer fronts in place. Give them a yank and you have access to that
section. I have not made those areas accessible in the past because I
also built side tables/towers that would have to be relocated to gain
access.

This is the last bed, and it also has 18 drawers vs. the previous that
only had 9. this is the one that I made the front accessible with the
magnetic catches.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Notice the French model in the back ground.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/





#2 on your personal bed casing, captain style or whatever. It looks
like you have a "hidden drawer" in the center.

All four beds that I have build like this have a center section of
drawers that are not seen or accessible unless the outer drawers, either
side, are removed.


Am I correct? and is
the purpose long term storage and keeping the exterior drawer shallow
enough, say 20" so that they can be fully opened if a dresser or Chest
of Drawers were nearby and yet still be pulled out for access to the
center drawer?

Exactly on all counts. But all drawers are approximately 1/3 the width
of the bed frame.




#3 Did you put a piece of masonite, or thin plywood under the drawers
to prevent things like mice coming up, or something falling out of a
drawer?

Only plywood for the drawer bottoms. This is mechanically complete IIRC
except for adding the decking to hold the mattress.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


#4 is the top plywood easily removable?

Yes. The top plywood is 2 sheets and I do screw them down. But once I
remove the screws I can lift from the headboard end. The side face
frames and the front near the foot board cover/hide the edges of the
3/4" thick plywood.

If you zoom in here you can see the gap/open end at the head board end
that does not encase the end of the plywood.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



#5 on your bed it looks like you have a metal strap going around the
toe kick piece, if it is, why?


I am not sure what you are talking about in the top referenced picture.
But there is not metal strap. My toe kick is actually to close the gap
at the bottoms of the vertical panels and I paint it black.



#6 took a good look at your mounting to the head and foot board, NICE!

On our original and the second bed that I built bed I simply used 3"
screws and counter sunk the heads. I started using the counter sunk
bolts and threaded inserts on the legs in the last 2 beds.




# 7 is it suitable for a California King size bed?

Sure. One of the beds is only Queen sized. Just make the divider
panels that separate the drawers longer to shorter or spaces a little
more apart.



Reason for asking, in shopping for a mattress and possible adjustable
bed base one vendor has something similar but only two drawers per
side and it was covered in gray cloth material, like a box frame might
have. It was ok, but 800 bucks for it with a roll around bed frame
under that. Max of 1/2 in sides on the drawer, and it got me to
thinking of all the lost room in the center of the bed. and no access
to the space near the head board. So I looked up your old posts found
the link to the pic above, and I am so very glad you left it up there.
Plus right about now I was wishing you were not that far away. I
just might use the old bed frame for now, and make the case after I
can get to the Kitchen cabinets. Sure wish I had Mac's new workshop
area.

If you do attempt to build a version of this please let me know and I
can give you some pointers of what to avoid. Even after building 3 beds
I made a rookie mistake on the 4th and had to undo and redo some major
steps and that took me a few hours.

Also, invest in the screw company you choose. It is embarrassing how
many screws I use in these things. And it was a very good thing that I
used screws on the last one to undo the problem I had. and that is why
I use a lot of screws vs. glue and Domino's when attaching drawer
tracks, and divider panels to the side face frames.

On Fri, 21 Apr 2017 23:24:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/21/2017 10:22 PM, OFWW wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Leon, Once your stuff is seen it cannot be unseen from memory.

Down here in the southern area of the country a comment like that is not
necessarily a good thing. LOL


I apologize, I meant it in the most impressionable good way, never
considering the other side, and yes. I have heard it used that way
too. Sorry.



Here is the last bed frame case you did. On this one it looks like you
installed a false drawer front where the nightstand is. Did you hinge
it for access?

Actually, next to last, last summer. After that I build another for my son.
But to answer your question on this particular bed, No. Nor did I do
that on the two before that. BUT! on the actual last one for my son and
his soon to be better half I used cabinet door magnets to hold the false
drawer fronts in place. Give them a yank and you have access to that
section. I have not made those areas accessible in the past because I
also built side tables/towers that would have to be relocated to gain
access.

This is the last bed, and it also has 18 drawers vs. the previous that
only had 9. this is the one that I made the front accessible with the
magnetic catches.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


Thanks for the shot of that. It might even further impress my wife. We
discussed your other beds and the idea of face frames and drawers
matching whatever furniture we end up with, at least in color, and
wood is an awesome thing.

Notice the French model in the back ground.


Smiling, I well remember that picture.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/





#2 on your personal bed casing, captain style or whatever. It looks
like you have a "hidden drawer" in the center.

All four beds that I have build like this have a center section of
drawers that are not seen or accessible unless the outer drawers, either
side, are removed.


Am I correct? and is
the purpose long term storage and keeping the exterior drawer shallow
enough, say 20" so that they can be fully opened if a dresser or Chest
of Drawers were nearby and yet still be pulled out for access to the
center drawer?

Exactly on all counts. But all drawers are approximately 1/3 the width
of the bed frame.


Ah, thanks for that bit of info.



#3 Did you put a piece of masonite, or thin plywood under the drawers
to prevent things like mice coming up, or something falling out of a
drawer?

Only plywood for the drawer bottoms. This is mechanically complete IIRC
except for adding the decking to hold the mattress.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


#4 is the top plywood easily removable?

Yes. The top plywood is 2 sheets and I do screw them down. But once I
remove the screws I can lift from the headboard end. The side face
frames and the front near the foot board cover/hide the edges of the
3/4" thick plywood.

If you zoom in here you can see the gap/open end at the head board end
that does not encase the end of the plywood.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



#5 on your bed it looks like you have a metal strap going around the
toe kick piece, if it is, why?


I am not sure what you are talking about in the top referenced picture.
But there is not metal strap. My toe kick is actually to close the gap
at the bottoms of the vertical panels and I paint it black.


It was this shot,...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

But then on review I now know it was it was just the end of the face
that when painted it looked like sheet metal or thin steel wrapped at
the lower right hand corner of the picture.



#6 took a good look at your mounting to the head and foot board, NICE!

On our original and the second bed that I built bed I simply used 3"
screws and counter sunk the heads. I started using the counter sunk
bolts and threaded inserts on the legs in the last 2 beds.


Makes sense, especially if you are going to relocate the bed.




# 7 is it suitable for a California King size bed?

Sure. One of the beds is only Queen sized. Just make the divider
panels that separate the drawers longer to shorter or spaces a little
more apart.



Reason for asking, in shopping for a mattress and possible adjustable
bed base one vendor has something similar but only two drawers per
side and it was covered in gray cloth material, like a box frame might
have. It was ok, but 800 bucks for it with a roll around bed frame
under that. Max of 1/2 in sides on the drawer, and it got me to
thinking of all the lost room in the center of the bed. and no access
to the space near the head board. So I looked up your old posts found
the link to the pic above, and I am so very glad you left it up there.
Plus right about now I was wishing you were not that far away. I
just might use the old bed frame for now, and make the case after I
can get to the Kitchen cabinets. Sure wish I had Mac's new workshop
area.

If you do attempt to build a version of this please let me know and I
can give you some pointers of what to avoid. Even after building 3 beds
I made a rookie mistake on the 4th and had to undo and redo some major
steps and that took me a few hours.

Also, invest in the screw company you choose. It is embarrassing how
many screws I use in these things. And it was a very good thing that I
used screws on the last one to undo the problem I had. and that is why
I use a lot of screws vs. glue and Domino's when attaching drawer
tracks, and divider panels to the side face frames.


Thanks again, and on reviewing your bed cabinet, especially after
seeing this other piece from the manufacturer I can see and appreciate
even more, the thought you put into the design, as well as the
purposing. I am even more impressed now, and the headboard attaching
gives complete control for virtually any head and foot board
arrangement.

I'll see what my wife thinks about your latest, tomorrow. It would
save me a ton of money for the short term, and yes, when I get to it
I'll definitely be in touch. With all those drawers one hardly has
need for more bedroom furniture other than an Armoire.

Thanks again.

On 4/22/2017 12:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 21 Apr 2017 23:24:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/21/2017 10:22 PM, OFWW wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Leon, Once your stuff is seen it cannot be unseen from memory.

Down here in the southern area of the country a comment like that is not
necessarily a good thing. LOL


I apologize, I meant it in the most impressionable good way, never
considering the other side, and yes. I have heard it used that way
too. Sorry.


I know you meant that in the most sincere way. The statement actually
reminded me of a tool belt picture that I sent to Swingman in a text. I
Preceded the picture with the statement, You can not unsee this.
It was a picture of a construction worker, from the back side, wearing a
tool belt attached to a g-string. ;~)





Here is the last bed frame case you did. On this one it looks like you
installed a false drawer front where the nightstand is. Did you hinge
it for access?

Actually, next to last, last summer. After that I build another for my son.
But to answer your question on this particular bed, No. Nor did I do
that on the two before that. BUT! on the actual last one for my son and
his soon to be better half I used cabinet door magnets to hold the false
drawer fronts in place. Give them a yank and you have access to that
section. I have not made those areas accessible in the past because I
also built side tables/towers that would have to be relocated to gain
access.

This is the last bed, and it also has 18 drawers vs. the previous that
only had 9. this is the one that I made the front accessible with the
magnetic catches.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


Thanks for the shot of that. It might even further impress my wife. We
discussed your other beds and the idea of face frames and drawers
matching whatever furniture we end up with, at least in color, and
wood is an awesome thing.

Notice the French model in the back ground.


Smiling, I well remember that picture.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/





#2 on your personal bed casing, captain style or whatever. It looks
like you have a "hidden drawer" in the center.

All four beds that I have build like this have a center section of
drawers that are not seen or accessible unless the outer drawers, either
side, are removed.


Am I correct? and is
the purpose long term storage and keeping the exterior drawer shallow
enough, say 20" so that they can be fully opened if a dresser or Chest
of Drawers were nearby and yet still be pulled out for access to the
center drawer?

Exactly on all counts. But all drawers are approximately 1/3 the width
of the bed frame.


Ah, thanks for that bit of info.

The depth of the drawers really does not matter, originally I thought I
would make them 36" deep. LOL... But as you mentioned, you may not
have room to remove them when they hit the wall or other furniture. You
could also place 4 drawers in each slot. But if you are building a
double decker, whew, that ends up being 24 drawers you have to build.

But seriously, you get massive storage with out using up any more floor
space. What other piece of furniture offers 18 drawers? LOL







#3 Did you put a piece of masonite, or thin plywood under the drawers
to prevent things like mice coming up, or something falling out of a
drawer?

Only plywood for the drawer bottoms. This is mechanically complete IIRC
except for adding the decking to hold the mattress.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


#4 is the top plywood easily removable?

Yes. The top plywood is 2 sheets and I do screw them down. But once I
remove the screws I can lift from the headboard end. The side face
frames and the front near the foot board cover/hide the edges of the
3/4" thick plywood.

If you zoom in here you can see the gap/open end at the head board end
that does not encase the end of the plywood.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



#5 on your bed it looks like you have a metal strap going around the
toe kick piece, if it is, why?


I am not sure what you are talking about in the top referenced picture.
But there is not metal strap. My toe kick is actually to close the gap
at the bottoms of the vertical panels and I paint it black.


It was this shot,...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

But then on review I now know it was it was just the end of the face
that when painted it looked like sheet metal or thin steel wrapped at
the lower right hand corner of the picture.

I used a flat black milk paint, what I had on hand.





#6 took a good look at your mounting to the head and foot board, NICE!

On our original and the second bed that I built bed I simply used 3"
screws and counter sunk the heads. I started using the counter sunk
bolts and threaded inserts on the legs in the last 2 beds.


Makes sense, especially if you are going to relocate the bed.

The slotted holes with bolts to attach the frame to the head and foot
boards allow mostly for discrepancies in the flooring surface.
Order of assembly, level the bed frame. Attach the head and foot
boards. On an uneven floor the head and foot boards may not sit on the
same plane. The slots in the bed frame allow for the head and foot
board to actually sit on the floor vs perhaps float and hand from the
bed frame.








# 7 is it suitable for a California King size bed?

Sure. One of the beds is only Queen sized. Just make the divider
panels that separate the drawers longer to shorter or spaces a little
more apart.



Reason for asking, in shopping for a mattress and possible adjustable
bed base one vendor has something similar but only two drawers per
side and it was covered in gray cloth material, like a box frame might
have. It was ok, but 800 bucks for it with a roll around bed frame
under that. Max of 1/2 in sides on the drawer, and it got me to
thinking of all the lost room in the center of the bed. and no access
to the space near the head board. So I looked up your old posts found
the link to the pic above, and I am so very glad you left it up there.
Plus right about now I was wishing you were not that far away. I
just might use the old bed frame for now, and make the case after I
can get to the Kitchen cabinets. Sure wish I had Mac's new workshop
area.

If you do attempt to build a version of this please let me know and I
can give you some pointers of what to avoid. Even after building 3 beds
I made a rookie mistake on the 4th and had to undo and redo some major
steps and that took me a few hours.

Also, invest in the screw company you choose. It is embarrassing how
many screws I use in these things. And it was a very good thing that I
used screws on the last one to undo the problem I had. and that is why
I use a lot of screws vs. glue and Domino's when attaching drawer
tracks, and divider panels to the side face frames.


Thanks again, and on reviewing your bed cabinet, especially after
seeing this other piece from the manufacturer I can see and appreciate
even more, the thought you put into the design, as well as the
purposing. I am even more impressed now, and the headboard attaching
gives complete control for virtually any head and foot board
arrangement.

Thank you! There was a lot of thought that went into the design. And
from the first tot he last bed I have stuck with that design with little
change. Change was mostly for the drawer tracks and stops.



I'll see what my wife thinks about your latest, tomorrow. It would
save me a ton of money for the short term, and yes, when I get to it
I'll definitely be in touch. With all those drawers one hardly has
need for more bedroom furniture other than an Armoire.

If you would like, I can e-mail you the Sketchup drawing file of one of
the beds. The later 2 bed frames are the better design. That will
show you every angle and detail.


Thanks again.

Thank you!

On Fri, 21 Apr 2017 23:24:41 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/21/2017 10:22 PM, OFWW wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Leon, Once your stuff is seen it cannot be unseen from memory.

Down here in the southern area of the country a comment like that is not
necessarily a good thing. LOL

The guy who invents eye bleach will make a fortune.