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#1
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building bedframe
What type of wood should I use to build a bedframe for a queen sized
bed? I'd like to make poster-type 2x2" post, 1/2"x2" slats within the headboard footboad in a "mission style" design, so a basic metal frame seems like it wouldn't be good enough. Does pine hold stain and finish well, also will it hold up to the weight if I use 1x6's? |
#3
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building bedframe
Can I make the headboard/footboard from pine as well, or do I risk the
possibility of it warping over time? |
#4
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building bedframe
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#5
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building bedframe
wrote in message ups.com... What type of wood should I use to build a bedframe for a queen sized bed? I'd like to make poster-type 2x2" post, 1/2"x2" slats within the headboard footboad in a "mission style" design, so a basic metal frame seems like it wouldn't be good enough. Does pine hold stain and finish well, also will it hold up to the weight if I use 1x6's? There is nothing wrong with using pine. A few people may take issue that since is a cheap wood, but there is some very nice furniture built with it. It can be stained, it can be finished nicely. If it is what you like and in your budget. go for it. |
#6
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building bedframe
Does pine hold stain and finish well, also will it hold up to the
weight if I use 1x6's? There's nothing wrong with pine, as long as you pick decent boards to begin with (fairly straight, relatively dry, and few knots). I personally like the look of hardwoods a lot better (especially cherry or quartersawn white oak), and these woods are heavier and more durable than pine also. But a pine bed could certainly last more than a lifetime - I'd guess the durability of a piece of furniture would have more to do with the quality of construction than with the type of wood (to a point, of course...). In other words, I'd rather have or make a good-quality pine bed with carefully-selected lumber than a shodily-made oak one. As far as 1x6's, I wouldn't use pine 1x's alone for anything structural (unless you laminate at least a few together). The side rails of the bed I just built are about 2 x 9" solid white oak, and the posts are about 3 1/2" square, each laminated from 3 oak boards. The ridgidity and sheer mass eliminate any movement of the frame - no matter what harsh tests we put it through... And pine can be stained, but it's sometimes prone to splotchiness - make sure you test on scrap, asyou might need a sanding sealer or wood conditioner of some sort to even out the coloration. Good luck and have fun, Andy |
#7
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building bedframe
I had a frame and couldn't get a boxspring up, so I supported the mattress
only. I bought two brand new white hollow core doors, together they make a perfect Q. I think they were $25 CDN each, and ready for framing. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#8
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building bedframe
Edwin Pawlowski wrote: There is nothing wrong with using pine. There are a few problems I have with pine (in the UK) It's never going to look like "Mission" work. Most "pine" isn't, especially if your trying to buy timber for cabinetry from a construction yard. Even the pine pine is hard to find at decent quality. I can also buy ash (which stains fairly well to resemble oak) more cheaply than I can buy a comparable quality of pine. |
#9
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building bedframe
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#10
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building bedframe
wrote in message ups.com... What type of wood should I use to build a bedframe for a queen sized bed? I'd like to make poster-type 2x2" post, 1/2"x2" slats within the headboard footboad in a "mission style" design, so a basic metal frame seems like it wouldn't be good enough. Does pine hold stain and finish well, also will it hold up to the weight if I use 1x6's? There are several varieties of pine, some very soft, some reasonably hard. Some highly subject to warping, some others fairly stable. The softer pines would require larger dimensions for a given application. Eastern White Pine or Ponderosa Pine for example are soft and subject to damage from any sort of impact but are reasonably stable (provided they are properly dried) from warping. Sugar Pine (sometimes called Yellow Pine) is moderately strong and is often used in construction (wall studs). See: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/thesam....net/my_photos The Sofa table is Ponderosa Pine. The Vanity and workbench are Yellow Pine. Pine doesn't stain very well but Yellow pine can be attractive with a natural finish. It acquires an amber hue over time. Max |
#11
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building bedframe
Andy Dingley wrote:
Even the pine pine is hard to find at decent quality. I can also buy ash (which stains fairly well to resemble oak) more cheaply than I can buy a comparable quality of pine. Thanks, Andy. I was going to point out that top quality pine is as expensive as some decent hardwoods. Pine done right can look very nice with an orange shellac finish. In my eyes, pine looks horrible stained dark, even when great care is taken to prevent blotching. It just looks cheap to me when stained dark. Come to think of it, ash can be a bright, interesting, beautiful wood with a simple clear coat, as well as taking a stain extremely easily. Ash is just an all around joy to work with. I recently did a "yoga room" using all ash trim and a 7" window sill with a wide crown underneath, and the wood is simply beautiful. The room has a lot of natural light, and the ash really lights up. |
#12
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building bedframe
badger.badger wrote:
Well I built our king size marital bed using pine, 4x4's for the legs and humping post (centre leg) You have a "humping post" in your bed? G |
#13
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building bedframe
On Dec 5, 5:09 pm, "badger.badger" wrote: wrote: Well I built our king size marital bed using pine, 4x4's for the legs and humping post (centre leg) 6x1 with dowelled and glued 2x1 runners to Now, this is why making your own furniture is so much better than store bought stuff - it's the custom features you can add in, like a "humping post"! |
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