Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the
most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 05/24/2016 1:04 PM, OFWW wrote:
On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. .... I have nothing other than my opinion to back this up, but I've always assumed it was owing limiting the reach-in distance from the days before there were full-extension slides and it's now just tradition. Another could be keeping the extended moment arm of that extra length under control...there's a lot of leverage and little restraint to little arms hanging on the front. That said, I've also built longer drawers and used slides that could be cut to fit to make use of the additional space. -- |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 5/24/2016 1:04 PM, OFWW wrote:
On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. Keep in mind most shop built base cabinets have a 24" EXTERIOR dimension as far as depth. Interior dimension of a 24" FF base cabinet, with a back panel, from the back panel to the front of a FF, is generally a bit over 23" Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. When remodeling existing, BUILT-IN cabinets, I still use 21" or 22", as you often need some wiggle room to replace, or add, a back board to attach mounting brackets. About the only place I'll use 24" side mounted slides is in specialty cabinets, like those for a shop or commercial establishment. Installation issues wag the dog, and the extra 1" or two is not often worth buying different slides for a project, in both effort of keeping track, future replacement and initial price. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 5/24/2016 12:04 PM, OFWW wrote:
On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. Just my own thoughts. That 24" base cabinet is its outside dimension. Allowing 3/4" for the face frame the inner depth is more like 23". Then, the drawer has a 1/2"-3/4" back, and the back part of the drawer doesn't need full support anyway. So, a 21" slide mounted toward the cabinet front will give you full support anyway. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 5/24/2016 1:42 PM, Swingman wrote:
Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. Dumbass .. that should be "BUILD", not buy . And drawer slides to match the drawers. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 2016-05-24 2:51 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 5/24/2016 1:42 PM, Swingman wrote: Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. Dumbass .. that should be "BUILD", not buy . And drawer slides to match the drawers. I had a laugh at the idea of you buying drawers. :-) Unless it is underwear, but that is a conversation I do NOT want to have. -- Froz.... --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 2:51:13 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
On 5/24/2016 1:42 PM, Swingman wrote: Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. Dumbass .. that should be "BUILD", not buy . My head was spinning! I was sitting here trying to come with reasons why you (especially *you*) would buy drawers if you were building the cabinets. I was torn between asking and trying to figure it on my own. I'm glad you cleared it up for us...unless you've been fooling us all these many years. Hmmm.... |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 5/24/2016 2:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 2:51:13 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: On 5/24/2016 1:42 PM, Swingman wrote: Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. Dumbass .. that should be "BUILD", not buy . My head was spinning! I was sitting here trying to come with reasons why you (especially *you*) would buy drawers if you were building the cabinets. I was torn between asking and trying to figure it on my own. I'm glad you cleared it up for us...unless you've been fooling us all these many years. Hmmm.... LOL ... still typing with one hand, but brain farts are more frequent. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 5/24/2016 2:02 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 2016-05-24 2:51 PM, Swingman wrote: On 5/24/2016 1:42 PM, Swingman wrote: Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. Dumbass .. that should be "BUILD", not buy . And drawer slides to match the drawers. I had a laugh at the idea of you buying drawers. :-) Unless it is underwear, but that is a conversation I do NOT want to have. LOL -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
OFWW wrote:
On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. The only "gotta pay attention to" factor is the space available for the drawer; I happen to like a fudge factor of 1/4" less than that. It is easy to find slides on even dimensions with 2" increments; i.e., 18, 20, 22, 24. It can be less easy to find ones on the odd inch. Since you are building your own cabinets, you can use whatever length slide you want. I'd use the longest that will fit; IMO, the torque on an open drawer isn't even worth thinking about. There really aren't any rules about dimensions. The vanities I built recently are 23" from front of the face frame to the wall. Most of the drawers are set 3 1/4" into the cabinet so I could put a medicine cabinet on the door covering the drawer stack. Those that aren't set in are 22" deep; I could have made them deeper but there was a nailer in the back that would interfere with one so I just made them all the same. The cabinet depth was determined by the available sizes of the soapstone tile I wanted to use for the top. The 23" depth allowed for a soapstone vertical edging nder the top without having to cut any field tiles. BTW, there are no metal slides on any of the 11 drawers; all run on oak runners which work just fine. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 5/24/2016 1:04 PM, OFWW wrote:
On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. Factory built drawers are smaller to save money. I build my drawers as big as the cabinet will allow. Something to remember, if using side mount full extension slides the slides can be shorter than the drawer. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 4:15:11 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 5/24/2016 1:04 PM, OFWW wrote: On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. Factory built drawers are smaller to save money. I build my drawers as big as the cabinet will allow. Something to remember, if using side mount full extension slides the slides can be shorter than the drawer. I have stick built cabinets from the mid-50s. The original drawers glided on wooden runners, which is why I assume they were made much shorter than the depth of the cabinets. When I made new drawers with full extension side slides, I was able to add over 3 to the depth of all the drawers. 3+ inches by 5 drawers plus the full extension slides make for a lot more usable space. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tue, 24 May 2016 13:20:20 -0500, dpb wrote:
On 05/24/2016 1:04 PM, OFWW wrote: On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. ... I have nothing other than my opinion to back this up, but I've always assumed it was owing limiting the reach-in distance from the days before there were full-extension slides and it's now just tradition. Another could be keeping the extended moment arm of that extra length under control...there's a lot of leverage and little restraint to little arms hanging on the front. You're speaking of little kids I presume? That said, I've also built longer drawers and used slides that could be cut to fit to make use of the additional space. What slides can be cut to fit? I was wondering about that possibility. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tue, 24 May 2016 13:42:12 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 5/24/2016 1:04 PM, OFWW wrote: On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. Keep in mind most shop built base cabinets have a 24" EXTERIOR dimension as far as depth. Interior dimension of a 24" FF base cabinet, with a back panel, from the back panel to the front of a FF, is generally a bit over 23" Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. With side sliders that seems to be no problem, but with undermount it seems like 21" is standard. And when you find them over 22 the price starts climbing fast. I just bought 4 pr 24" undermount's and paid more for them then 16 pr of 21" undermount's. Needless to say when I start on the pantry with even deeper drawers I will give up the width of the shelves for side mounts at less than 1/2 the cost. I had to order the 24' undermount's so I am on hold until they arrive. When remodeling existing, BUILT-IN cabinets, I still use 21" or 22", as you often need some wiggle room to replace, or add, a back board to attach mounting brackets. About the only place I'll use 24" side mounted slides is in specialty cabinets, like those for a shop or commercial establishment. Installation issues wag the dog, and the extra 1" or two is not often worth buying different slides for a project, in both effort of keeping track, future replacement and initial price. I understand, and was adjusting my desires according to price and availability. I had to splurge on the 24" undermount since had I installed the blind drawers with those they would have to be totally destroyed to be replaced since once the drawers were in, there would be not way of getting them out. Undermount's are a natural for such a situation. I'll take pictures showing why as I do them. But I got curious about the drawer sizing after going through all the slides available, looking at what I already have at home and the pictures you guys post. Plus reading the few books I have on cabinets. While it was real tempting just to move ahead and deal with things as I went along. I followed your advice to get the ducks in a row, as well as from doing things in my old trade. Thank you. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tue, 24 May 2016 12:10:03 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 2:51:13 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: On 5/24/2016 1:42 PM, Swingman wrote: Therefore, I usually buy 22" drawers for NEW 24" deep, shop built cabinets. Dumbass .. that should be "BUILD", not buy . My head was spinning! I was sitting here trying to come with reasons why you (especially *you*) would buy drawers if you were building the cabinets. I was torn between asking and trying to figure it on my own. I'm glad you cleared it up for us...unless you've been fooling us all these many years. Hmmm.... LOL, I saw it too, and went, nawww, couldn't be what I am seeing. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tue, 24 May 2016 12:47:27 -0600, Just Wondering
wrote: On 5/24/2016 12:04 PM, OFWW wrote: On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. Just my own thoughts. That 24" base cabinet is its outside dimension. Allowing 3/4" for the face frame the inner depth is more like 23". Then, the drawer has a 1/2"-3/4" back, and the back part of the drawer doesn't need full support anyway. So, a 21" slide mounted toward the cabinet front will give you full support anyway. Yeah, I have been playing around with the internal numbers to keep the Outside at exactly 24", depth of dado, making up for that with the exact dimensions of the end panels and so on. Depending on side, versus undermount's would make a difference on the drawer length, plus the drawer edge thickness, just to see what common sense would dictate for an over all picture. Do this, not that, and so on. All this brought up the question, because I felt like I was reinventing the wheel, and how stupid is that? |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tue, 24 May 2016 15:25:59 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote: OFWW wrote: On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. The only "gotta pay attention to" factor is the space available for the drawer; I happen to like a fudge factor of 1/4" less than that. It is easy to find slides on even dimensions with 2" increments; i.e., 18, 20, 22, 24. It can be less easy to find ones on the odd inch. Since you are building your own cabinets, you can use whatever length slide you want. I'd use the longest that will fit; IMO, the torque on an open drawer isn't even worth thinking about. There really aren't any rules about dimensions. The vanities I built recently are 23" from front of the face frame to the wall. Most of the drawers are set 3 1/4" into the cabinet so I could put a medicine cabinet on the door covering the drawer stack. Those that aren't set in are 22" deep; I could have made them deeper but there was a nailer in the back that would interfere with one so I just made them all the same. The cabinet depth was determined by the available sizes of the soapstone tile I wanted to use for the top. The 23" depth allowed for a soapstone vertical edging nder the top without having to cut any field tiles. BTW, there are no metal slides on any of the 11 drawers; all run on oak runners which work just fine. Which begs the question with 3/4 drawer sides why not dovetail or box joint style runners? Or dual under mount dovetail runners? Made out of hardwood they should last for a very long time. It would certainly be less expensive and my house was built early 70, and it has hardwood runners for all the drawers, anyhow those thoughts were also running through my mind. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tue, 24 May 2016 15:15:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 5/24/2016 1:04 PM, OFWW wrote: On 24" base cabinets it seems that 21 -22 inch drawer slides are the most common, in some places they just don't stock anything over 21 inch. Is there a reason for this? I realize that there are variables due to ff and inset, half inset, and full face doors, but when looking at cabinets, like the builtin's that I am replacing they have a full 2 " to 3" gap behind the drawers. I don't see much said about drawer building as to sizing, recommended or other, other than the various joints and drawer faces. Anyhow, there are usually reasons, and very good reasons for the ways things are made, which I am learning, a great deal in part to Swingman's advice. When one of you guys says to pay attention, a wise man listens. Factory built drawers are smaller to save money. I build my drawers as big as the cabinet will allow. I'm with you one that! Something to remember, if using side mount full extension slides the slides can be shorter than the drawer. Then do your drawers only go out, say 3/4 of the way when you do that? When the drawer depth is say 6 to 10 " it isn't such an issue, only on shallow or top drawers that have over hangs, that I can see. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
OFWW wrote:
.. Factory built drawers are smaller to save money. I build my drawers as big as the cabinet will allow. I'm with you one that! Something to remember, if using side mount full extension slides the slides can be shorter than the drawer. Then do your drawers only go out, say 3/4 of the way when you do that? When the drawer depth is say 6 to 10 " it isn't such an issue, only on shallow or top drawers that have over hangs, that I can see. If the drawer is 6" shouter than the slides the back of the drawer obviously will have a 1/4 or so remain inside. But IIRC you were talking about 21-22 slides for a 24" cab. If the drawers were actually 24" deep, 21" slides would only leave1/8 of the drawer unexposed if the back of the drawer is not dadoed in. If dadoed, less is unexposed. Just because the drawer does not come all the way out does not mean that you will have difficulty seeing inside the entire drawer or not have use of the full drawer. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Tue, 24 May 2016 23:55:40 -0500, Leon wrote:
OFWW wrote: . Factory built drawers are smaller to save money. I build my drawers as big as the cabinet will allow. I'm with you one that! Something to remember, if using side mount full extension slides the slides can be shorter than the drawer. Then do your drawers only go out, say 3/4 of the way when you do that? When the drawer depth is say 6 to 10 " it isn't such an issue, only on shallow or top drawers that have over hangs, that I can see. If the drawer is 6" shouter than the slides the back of the drawer obviously will have a 1/4 or so remain inside. But IIRC you were talking about 21-22 slides for a 24" cab. If the drawers were actually 24" deep, 21" slides would only leave1/8 of the drawer unexposed if the back of the drawer is not dadoed in. If dadoed, less is unexposed. Just because the drawer does not come all the way out does not mean that you will have difficulty seeing inside the entire drawer or not have use of the full drawer. Yes, 24" cabinets were my main thought on this. My wife somehow has "junk drawers" where everything ends up dogpiled and the back, and silver ware drawers right under the counter, so the countertop blocks the views even more. Usually the odds and ends at that back of that drawer are a problem to reach because of vision not distance. I'm not sure what you mean about the drawer being dadoed regarding the slides. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On 5/25/2016 12:57 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Tue, 24 May 2016 23:55:40 -0500, Leon wrote: OFWW wrote: . Factory built drawers are smaller to save money. I build my drawers as big as the cabinet will allow. I'm with you one that! Something to remember, if using side mount full extension slides the slides can be shorter than the drawer. Then do your drawers only go out, say 3/4 of the way when you do that? When the drawer depth is say 6 to 10 " it isn't such an issue, only on shallow or top drawers that have over hangs, that I can see. If the drawer is 6" shouter than the slides the back of the drawer obviously will have a 1/4 or so remain inside. But IIRC you were talking about 21-22 slides for a 24" cab. If the drawers were actually 24" deep, 21" slides would only leave1/8 of the drawer unexposed if the back of the drawer is not dadoed in. If dadoed, less is unexposed. Just because the drawer does not come all the way out does not mean that you will have difficulty seeing inside the entire drawer or not have use of the full drawer. Yes, 24" cabinets were my main thought on this. My wife somehow has "junk drawers" where everything ends up dogpiled and the back, and silver ware drawers right under the counter, so the countertop blocks the views even more. Usually the odds and ends at that back of that drawer are a problem to reach because of vision not distance. I'm not sure what you mean about the drawer being dadoed regarding the slides. A drawer "back" being dadoed in between the sides means that the back will be closer to the front of the drawer. Typically 1/2" to 3/4". |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Out of Curiosity, a drawer question
On Wed, 25 May 2016 09:32:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 5/25/2016 12:57 AM, OFWW wrote: On Tue, 24 May 2016 23:55:40 -0500, Leon wrote: OFWW wrote: . Factory built drawers are smaller to save money. I build my drawers as big as the cabinet will allow. I'm with you one that! Something to remember, if using side mount full extension slides the slides can be shorter than the drawer. Then do your drawers only go out, say 3/4 of the way when you do that? When the drawer depth is say 6 to 10 " it isn't such an issue, only on shallow or top drawers that have over hangs, that I can see. If the drawer is 6" shouter than the slides the back of the drawer obviously will have a 1/4 or so remain inside. But IIRC you were talking about 21-22 slides for a 24" cab. If the drawers were actually 24" deep, 21" slides would only leave1/8 of the drawer unexposed if the back of the drawer is not dadoed in. If dadoed, less is unexposed. Just because the drawer does not come all the way out does not mean that you will have difficulty seeing inside the entire drawer or not have use of the full drawer. Yes, 24" cabinets were my main thought on this. My wife somehow has "junk drawers" where everything ends up dogpiled and the back, and silver ware drawers right under the counter, so the countertop blocks the views even more. Usually the odds and ends at that back of that drawer are a problem to reach because of vision not distance. I'm not sure what you mean about the drawer being dadoed regarding the slides. A drawer "back" being dadoed in between the sides means that the back will be closer to the front of the drawer. Typically 1/2" to 3/4". OK, got it now. I prefer to stay away from dadoes' there, for that reason. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Silverware - curiosity question | UK diy | |||
Toe Kick Drawer Question | Woodworking | |||
Curiosity question: How to make CV joints. | Metalworking | |||
drawer design question | Woodworking | |||
Question about building a drawer | Home Repair |