I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I hope it is not the train.

I have a couple more coats of varnish to apply to the face frames and
attach the tops and backs and they are done. Well a small amount of
trim... ;~)

Anyway, this is how I attach false drawer fronts to the drawer
assemblies. Very easy this way with little to no measuring if you use
drawer pulls.

The bottom drawer is in and I have placed 1/4" shims on top of that drawer.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I then set the next false drawer front on top of the shims and attach
with screws through the predrilled drawer pull screw holes to hold the
false front in place. Then I open the drawer and place screws in each
corner from the inside.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Than I remove the screws from the drawer pull holes in front and replace
on the inside using the holes previously created from the front side.
AND I attach a stepped indexing piece of plywood to locate the height of
the drawer pulls.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I set the drawer pulls on that indexing piece and press into the points
of the screws that protrude.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Done

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

These cabinets are 43.75" tall and will have book cases that stand 78"
tall sitting on top. A bridge cabinet between the top book cases will
hang from the top. Total height will be just over 120".

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I hope it is not the train.

I have a couple more coats of varnish to apply to the face frames and
attach the tops and backs and they are done. Well a small amount of
trim... ;~)

Anyway, this is how I attach false drawer fronts to the drawer
assemblies. Very easy this way with little to no measuring if you use
drawer pulls.

The bottom drawer is in and I have placed 1/4" shims on top of that drawer.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I then set the next false drawer front on top of the shims and attach
with screws through the predrilled drawer pull screw holes to hold the
false front in place. Then I open the drawer and place screws in each
corner from the inside.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Than I remove the screws from the drawer pull holes in front and replace
on the inside using the holes previously created from the front side.
AND I attach a stepped indexing piece of plywood to locate the height of
the drawer pulls.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I set the drawer pulls on that indexing piece and press into the points
of the screws that protrude.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Done

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

These cabinets are 43.75" tall and will have book cases that stand 78"
tall sitting on top. A bridge cabinet between the top book cases will
hang from the top. Total height will be just over 120".





Like pie?

Very nicely done, Leon. Your work really helps showcase the difference from when I learned to "feel the force" by hand fitting joints with lots of chiseling, sanding, fitting, hand sawing, etc. with all manner of tools to get joints right.

Taking advantage of today's technologies and machine capabilities, you have taught yourself to be on the cutting edge (no pun intended) of wood machining capabilities that make your perfect joints and use your tools to their fullest capabilities. Intersecting joints are perfect, alignments are perfect, parts and pieces all perfect... wow. You have taken what today's machines will do with computer assistance (Sketchup)to a craft unto itself. Bravo!

But still, the one thing I always admire at least as much as your final product is your designs. They are always so well proportioned and clean looking. Never fussy or overdone.

Another great job!

Robert

On 3/3/17 10:53 AM, wrote:

But still, the one thing I always admire at least as much as your
final product is your designs. They are always so well proportioned
and clean looking. Never fussy or overdone.

Another great job!

Robert


That's true.
Design in any field is all about scale and proportion and he has a very
good eye for it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/3/2017 10:53 AM, wrote:
Very nicely done, Leon. Your work really helps showcase the
difference from when I learned to "feel the force" by hand fitting
joints with lots of chiseling, sanding, fitting, hand sawing, etc.
with all manner of tools to get joints right.


Wow I just had a flash back.. LOL


Taking advantage of today's technologies and machine capabilities,
you have taught yourself to be on the cutting edge (no pun intended)
of wood machining capabilities that make your perfect joints and use
your tools to their fullest capabilities. Intersecting joints are
perfect, alignments are perfect, parts and pieces all perfect... wow.
You have taken what today's machines will do with computer assistance
(Sketchup)to a craft unto itself. Bravo!


Thank you Robert. As you well know cutting pieces all at once with the
same setting is instrumental for joints that fit correctly, that and
cutting square. ;~)




But still, the one thing I always admire at least as much as your
final product is your designs. They are always so well proportioned
and clean looking. Never fussy or overdone.

I really helps to see the concept on the computer before jumping in. 35
years ago I designed as I built, and it took fooooooor ever.
I have also found that over done/fussy is the big manufacturers way to
hide ugly joints or gaps or bad design. Like using Caulk. LOL



Another great job!


Thank you. 3 more cabinets to fit on top, but no drawers, so they
should go faster, yeah!


Leon

On 3/3/2017 3:54 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/3/17 10:53 AM, wrote:

But still, the one thing I always admire at least as much as your
final product is your designs. They are always so well proportioned
and clean looking. Never fussy or overdone.

Another great job!

Robert


That's true.
Design in any field is all about scale and proportion and he has a very
good eye for it.



Thank you Mike!

On Thu, 2 Mar 2017 14:03:17 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I hope it is not the train.

I have a couple more coats of varnish to apply to the face frames and
attach the tops and backs and they are done. Well a small amount of
trim... ;~)

Anyway, this is how I attach false drawer fronts to the drawer
assemblies. Very easy this way with little to no measuring if you use
drawer pulls.

The bottom drawer is in and I have placed 1/4" shims on top of that drawer.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I then set the next false drawer front on top of the shims and attach
with screws through the predrilled drawer pull screw holes to hold the
false front in place. Then I open the drawer and place screws in each
corner from the inside.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Than I remove the screws from the drawer pull holes in front and replace
on the inside using the holes previously created from the front side.
AND I attach a stepped indexing piece of plywood to locate the height of
the drawer pulls.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I set the drawer pulls on that indexing piece and press into the points
of the screws that protrude.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Done

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

These cabinets are 43.75" tall and will have book cases that stand 78"
tall sitting on top. A bridge cabinet between the top book cases will
hang from the top. Total height will be just over 120".



Thanks for posting this as well as you notes.
I always enjoy your reviews of your work and take something away from
it as I do.

In this photo,...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

I noticed holes on the bottom of the cabinet, with screws. Are those
levelers, if so could you post a picture of the bottom of the cabinets
with them installed and any notes or hints?

On 3/4/2017 1:25 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 2 Mar 2017 14:03:17 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I hope it is not the train.

I have a couple more coats of varnish to apply to the face frames and
attach the tops and backs and they are done. Well a small amount of
trim... ;~)

Anyway, this is how I attach false drawer fronts to the drawer
assemblies. Very easy this way with little to no measuring if you use
drawer pulls.

The bottom drawer is in and I have placed 1/4" shims on top of that drawer.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I then set the next false drawer front on top of the shims and attach
with screws through the predrilled drawer pull screw holes to hold the
false front in place. Then I open the drawer and place screws in each
corner from the inside.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Than I remove the screws from the drawer pull holes in front and replace
on the inside using the holes previously created from the front side.
AND I attach a stepped indexing piece of plywood to locate the height of
the drawer pulls.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I set the drawer pulls on that indexing piece and press into the points
of the screws that protrude.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Done

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

These cabinets are 43.75" tall and will have book cases that stand 78"
tall sitting on top. A bridge cabinet between the top book cases will
hang from the top. Total height will be just over 120".



Thanks for posting this as well as you notes.
I always enjoy your reviews of your work and take something away from
it as I do.

In this photo,...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

I noticed holes on the bottom of the cabinet, with screws. Are those
levelers, if so could you post a picture of the bottom of the cabinets
with them installed and any notes or hints?


Yes! Those are levelers.

I cannot post a picture of this particular set up but check here.

Here I put 15 each on the bottom of the last two king sized beds that I
built last year. If you click the link and click the picture to zoom in
you can see how they mount. Up sided down in this case but you should
get the picture, so to speak. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Here is my drawing of the foot under the file cabinet but with out the
adjustment hole in the bottom of the cabinet.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

And generally where I buy them.

http://www.wwhardware.com/heavy-duty...ygheavy-m10x75

They have a ledge on the bottom that the cabinet side or front rests on
and 4 screws hold them in place.

For install I made a drill jig to place the adjustment hole in the
cabinet bottom. The jig guides the drill for the hole the hole the
correct distance from the surface that the leg screws/attaches to.

And then I place the foot screw up into that hole and install the
attachment screws. The foot screw uses a hex key/wrench to adjust.

On 3/3/2017 5:02 AM, Dmitry Fedortsov wrote:
Total height will be just over 120".

length of combined subjects = 188 characters =( :c(|)

???



Snip



These cabinets are 43.75" tall and will have book cases that stand 78"
tall sitting on top. A bridge cabinet between the top book cases will
hang from the top. Total height will be just over 120".

On Sat, 4 Mar 2017 14:43:20 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/4/2017 1:25 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 2 Mar 2017 14:03:17 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I hope it is not the train.

I have a couple more coats of varnish to apply to the face frames and
attach the tops and backs and they are done. Well a small amount of
trim... ;~)

Anyway, this is how I attach false drawer fronts to the drawer
assemblies. Very easy this way with little to no measuring if you use
drawer pulls.

The bottom drawer is in and I have placed 1/4" shims on top of that drawer.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I then set the next false drawer front on top of the shims and attach
with screws through the predrilled drawer pull screw holes to hold the
false front in place. Then I open the drawer and place screws in each
corner from the inside.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Than I remove the screws from the drawer pull holes in front and replace
on the inside using the holes previously created from the front side.
AND I attach a stepped indexing piece of plywood to locate the height of
the drawer pulls.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I set the drawer pulls on that indexing piece and press into the points
of the screws that protrude.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Done

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

These cabinets are 43.75" tall and will have book cases that stand 78"
tall sitting on top. A bridge cabinet between the top book cases will
hang from the top. Total height will be just over 120".



Thanks for posting this as well as you notes.
I always enjoy your reviews of your work and take something away from
it as I do.

In this photo,...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

I noticed holes on the bottom of the cabinet, with screws. Are those
levelers, if so could you post a picture of the bottom of the cabinets
with them installed and any notes or hints?


Yes! Those are levelers.

I cannot post a picture of this particular set up but check here.

Here I put 15 each on the bottom of the last two king sized beds that I
built last year. If you click the link and click the picture to zoom in
you can see how they mount. Up sided down in this case but you should
get the picture, so to speak. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Here is my drawing of the foot under the file cabinet but with out the
adjustment hole in the bottom of the cabinet.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

And generally where I buy them.

http://www.wwhardware.com/heavy-duty...ygheavy-m10x75

They have a ledge on the bottom that the cabinet side or front rests on
and 4 screws hold them in place.

For install I made a drill jig to place the adjustment hole in the
cabinet bottom. The jig guides the drill for the hole the hole the
correct distance from the surface that the leg screws/attaches to.

And then I place the foot screw up into that hole and install the
attachment screws. The foot screw uses a hex key/wrench to adjust.

What?!? No Festool Electric driver for that?

Thanks for the info, the pics and the confirmation, and the parts
link.

Also the sideways file cabinet and book case idea. It is on my todo
list now. Can't wait for the rains and cold to be over.

On 3/4/2017 9:58 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Sat, 4 Mar 2017 14:43:20 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/4/2017 1:25 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 2 Mar 2017 14:03:17 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I hope it is not the train.

I have a couple more coats of varnish to apply to the face frames and
attach the tops and backs and they are done. Well a small amount of
trim... ;~)

Anyway, this is how I attach false drawer fronts to the drawer
assemblies. Very easy this way with little to no measuring if you use
drawer pulls.

The bottom drawer is in and I have placed 1/4" shims on top of that drawer.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I then set the next false drawer front on top of the shims and attach
with screws through the predrilled drawer pull screw holes to hold the
false front in place. Then I open the drawer and place screws in each
corner from the inside.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Than I remove the screws from the drawer pull holes in front and replace
on the inside using the holes previously created from the front side.
AND I attach a stepped indexing piece of plywood to locate the height of
the drawer pulls.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


I set the drawer pulls on that indexing piece and press into the points
of the screws that protrude.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Done

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

These cabinets are 43.75" tall and will have book cases that stand 78"
tall sitting on top. A bridge cabinet between the top book cases will
hang from the top. Total height will be just over 120".



Thanks for posting this as well as you notes.
I always enjoy your reviews of your work and take something away from
it as I do.

In this photo,...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

I noticed holes on the bottom of the cabinet, with screws. Are those
levelers, if so could you post a picture of the bottom of the cabinets
with them installed and any notes or hints?


Yes! Those are levelers.

I cannot post a picture of this particular set up but check here.

Here I put 15 each on the bottom of the last two king sized beds that I
built last year. If you click the link and click the picture to zoom in
you can see how they mount. Up sided down in this case but you should
get the picture, so to speak. ;~)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Here is my drawing of the foot under the file cabinet but with out the
adjustment hole in the bottom of the cabinet.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

And generally where I buy them.

http://www.wwhardware.com/heavy-duty...ygheavy-m10x75

They have a ledge on the bottom that the cabinet side or front rests on
and 4 screws hold them in place.

For install I made a drill jig to place the adjustment hole in the
cabinet bottom. The jig guides the drill for the hole the hole the
correct distance from the surface that the leg screws/attaches to.

And then I place the foot screw up into that hole and install the
attachment screws. The foot screw uses a hex key/wrench to adjust.

What?!? No Festool Electric driver for that?

Well actually I used my Festool drill to attach and drill. ;~)


Thanks for the info, the pics and the confirmation, and the parts
link.

Also the sideways file cabinet and book case idea. It is on my todo
list now. Can't wait for the rains and cold to be over.

A word of caution, the sideways/lateral file cabinet is relative
shallow, front to back, and can tip easily when the drawers are fully
open and loaded with files. This may not be much of an issue after being
filled but I will attach mine to a wall stud along with having book
cases on top.

On Sun, 5 Mar 2017 08:49:24 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
snip
And generally where I buy them.

http://www.wwhardware.com/heavy-duty...ygheavy-m10x75

They have a ledge on the bottom that the cabinet side or front rests on
and 4 screws hold them in place.

For install I made a drill jig to place the adjustment hole in the
cabinet bottom. The jig guides the drill for the hole the hole the
correct distance from the surface that the leg screws/attaches to.

And then I place the foot screw up into that hole and install the
attachment screws. The foot screw uses a hex key/wrench to adjust.

What?!? No Festool Electric driver for that?

Well actually I used my Festool drill to attach and drill. ;~)


Thanks for the info, the pics and the confirmation, and the parts
link.

Also the sideways file cabinet and book case idea. It is on my todo
list now. Can't wait for the rains and cold to be over.

A word of caution, the sideways/lateral file cabinet is relative
shallow, front to back, and can tip easily when the drawers are fully
open and loaded with files. This may not be much of an issue after being
filled but I will attach mine to a wall stud along with having book
cases on top.

That was part of my reasoning for this style of file cabinet. Not
wasting the space on top of a two drawer setup. In Calif, where not
all shakers are religious, I was planning on mounting them to the wall
also. Thinking of using the "suspended shelf" type hangers. And doing
it in cherry wood.