Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer. Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides. I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap. Their
reply was that they would check on availability and price for a cap
and let me know.

Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the
bag itself. I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.
--
GW Ross

Duct tape is like the Force. It has a
light side and a dark side, and it
binds the universe together.

On 11/2/2016 11:00 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer. Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides. I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap. Their reply
was that they would check on availability and price for a cap and let me
know.

Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the bag
itself. I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.

I use boxes of wine. My BIL gave me about 20 or so. they are great.
sorry the LV was not up to snuff.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 11/2/2016 11:00 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer. Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides. I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap. Their reply
was that they would check on availability and price for a cap and let me
know.

Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the bag
itself. I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.

I use boxes of wine. My BIL gave me about 20 or so. they are great.
sorry the LV was not up to snuff.

The bag is great for small quantities, which is what I use. They
emailed me back, the replacement cap is 50 cents. I will use a
silicone stopper.

--
GW Ross

Of course it's the murder weapon. Who
would frame someone with a fake?

Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer. Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides. I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap. Their reply
was that they would check on availability and price for a cap and let me
know.
Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the bag
itself. I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.


I use boxes of wine. My BIL gave me about 20 or so. they are great.
sorry the LV was not up to snuff.


The bag is great for small quantities, which is what I use. They
emailed me back, the replacement cap is 50 cents. I will use a
silicone stopper.


It's good that you let them know - if it's a widespread quality
control issue - they can switch products or try to have the
manufacturer make amends or improvements.
John T.

wrote:

Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer. Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides. I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap. Their reply
was that they would check on availability and price for a cap and let me
know.
Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the bag
itself. I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.


I use boxes of wine. My BIL gave me about 20 or so. they are great.
sorry the LV was not up to snuff.


The bag is great for small quantities, which is what I use. They
emailed me back, the replacement cap is 50 cents. I will use a
silicone stopper.


It's good that you let them know - if it's a widespread quality
control issue - they can switch products or try to have the
manufacturer make amends or improvements.
John T.

I had already talked to them about the bags. It is a trick to get all
the air out without squishing the finish out. I told them they should
have a duck-bill valve in the neck of it to keep the air from coming
back it. Doubt they did it.

--
GW Ross

Of course it's the murder weapon. Who
would frame someone with a fake?

On 11/2/2016 4:22 PM, G. Ross wrote:
wrote:

Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer. Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides. I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap. Their
reply
was that they would check on availability and price for a cap and
let me
know.
Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the
bag
itself. I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.


I use boxes of wine. My BIL gave me about 20 or so. they are great.
sorry the LV was not up to snuff.


The bag is great for small quantities, which is what I use. They
emailed me back, the replacement cap is 50 cents. I will use a
silicone stopper.


It's good that you let them know - if it's a widespread quality
control issue - they can switch products or try to have the
manufacturer make amends or improvements.
John T.

I had already talked to them about the bags. It is a trick to get all
the air out without squishing the finish out. I told them they should
have a duck-bill valve in the neck of it to keep the air from coming
back it. Doubt they did it.

thats why the wine boxes are great. you open the valve squeeze the air
out and close the valve.

I have noticed that latex paint stays without separating like a can.

my shellac lasts a long time.



--
Jeff

On 11/2/2016 10:00 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer. Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides. I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap. Their reply
was that they would check on availability and price for a cap and let me
know.

Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the bag
itself. I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.


I simply turn the can upside down so that the part that goes bad is on
the bottom when you open the can. Much less hassle for me. For longer
periods I add Bloxygen before sealing he can and turning upside down.

replying to G. Ross, Tom wrote:
G Ross, just saw your posting for the first time. Please go to
www.stoplossbags.com and leave a message with your address. They'll happily
send a replacement.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...gs-802472-.htm

Tom wrote:
replying to G. Ross, Tom wrote:
G Ross, just saw your posting for the first time. Please go to
www.stoplossbags.com and leave a message with your address. They'll happily
send a replacement.

I just replaced the cap with a silicone stopper.

--
GW Ross

replying to G. Ross, t schrunk wrote:
Please let us know of any cap problems at www.stoplossbags. We wish the bags
to be problem free and will send you replacement caps. Please include name
and address.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...gs-802472-.htm

On 11/2/2016 10:00 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Anyone use these bags for storage of finish material?
I have two, one for their polymerized tung oil finish, and one for
polymerized tung oil sealer.Â* Have used them for a few months and they
work well to keep the oil out of contact with air.
This morning noticed that the cap on the sealer had separated top from
sides.Â* I emailed Lee Valley, asking for a replacement cap.Â* Their reply
was that they would check on availability and price for a cap and let me
know.

Perhaps the plastic in the cap is not as resistant to finish as the bag
itself.Â* I'll use a cork before buying a replacement cap.

My solution to finish hardening on top in the can is to turn the can
upside down with a little Bloxygen on top before putting on the lid.
If the contents hardens it is on the bottom.

On 1/29/18 8:07 AM, Leon wrote:
My solution to finish hardening on top in the can is to turn the can
upside down with a little Bloxygen on top before putting on the lid.
If the contents hardens it is on the bottom.

How did I not know about this stuff!?

But why do you flip the can if you don't have to?
If anything hardens on the lid, so what.
If it hardens on the bottom, then you're kicking it up when stirring, no?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 1/29/2018 9:25 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/29/18 8:07 AM, Leon wrote:
My solution to finish hardening on top in the can is to turn the can
upside down with a little Bloxygen on top before putting on the lid.
If the contents hardens it is on the bottom.

How did I not know about this stuff!?

But why do you flip the can if you don't have to?
If anything hardens on the lid, so what.
If it hardens on the bottom, then you're kicking it up when stirring, no?



Man I just reread what I wrote. I put the lid on before turning upside
down. Whew! LOL

The finish does not harden on the lid, it hardens at the top of the
product inside the can, below the lid. Bloxegen helps to displace air.

I use a lot of gel varnishes and they tend to harden on top in a
relatively short time compared to liquid products. I seldom stir gels
after the first time when opening the first time. After that they take
a loooong time to separate. This probably explains why this works best
for me.

I place the lid on the can and slam the can upside down on the work
bench to seat the lid. The slamming action also forces the gel inside
to fall to the lid and the open space in the can is now at the
top-bottom of the can. I store the can upside down so that when I
reopen the can the fresh product is now at the top. The hard stuff is
now at the bottom of the can.

As for liquid products that have to be stirred, pour into another
container being careful not to let the hard stuff come out.

Bloxygen might be the best solution to keep the air away from the
product inside the can. I THINK it is heavier than air.

On 1/29/18 10:07 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/29/2018 9:25 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/29/18 8:07 AM, Leon wrote:
My solution to finish hardening on top in the can is to turn the can
upside down with a little Bloxygen on top before putting on the lid.
If the contents hardens it is on the bottom.

How did I not know about this stuff!?

But why do you flip the can if you don't have to?
If anything hardens on the lid, so what.
If it hardens on the bottom, then you're kicking it up when stirring, no?



Man I just reread what I wrote.Â* I put the lid on before turning upside
down.Â* Whew!Â* LOL

The finish does not harden on the lid, it hardens at the top of the
product inside the can, below the lid.Â* Bloxegen helps to displace air.

I use a lot of gel varnishes and they tend to harden on top in a
relatively short time compared to liquid products.Â* I seldom stir gels
after the first time when opening the first time.Â* After that they take
a loooong time to separate.Â* This probably explains why this works best
for me.

I place the lid on the can and slam the can upside down on the work
bench to seat the lid.Â* The slamming action also forces the gel inside
to fall to the lid and the open space in the can is now at the
top-bottom of the can.Â* I store the can upside down so that when I
reopen the can the fresh product is now at the top.Â* The hard stuff is
now at the bottom of the can.

As for liquid products that have to be stirred, pour into another
container being careful not to let the hard stuff come out.

Bloxygen might be the best solution to keep the air away from the
product inside the can.Â* I THINK it is heavier than air.

It's argon and argon quite a bit heavier than air.
You probably don't have to flip the can, but it certainly doesn't hurt.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Monday, January 29, 2018 at 11:07:11 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/29/2018 9:25 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/29/18 8:07 AM, Leon wrote:
My solution to finish hardening on top in the can is to turn the can
upside down with a little Bloxygen on top before putting on the lid.
If the contents hardens it is on the bottom.

How did I not know about this stuff!?

But why do you flip the can if you don't have to?
If anything hardens on the lid, so what.
If it hardens on the bottom, then you're kicking it up when stirring, no?



Man I just reread what I wrote. I put the lid on before turning upside
down. Whew! LOL

The finish does not harden on the lid, it hardens at the top of the
product inside the can, below the lid. Bloxegen helps to displace air.

I use a lot of gel varnishes and they tend to harden on top in a
relatively short time compared to liquid products. I seldom stir gels
after the first time when opening the first time. After that they take
a loooong time to separate. This probably explains why this works best
for me.

I place the lid on the can and slam the can upside down on the work
bench to seat the lid. The slamming action also forces the gel inside
to fall to the lid and the open space in the can is now at the
top-bottom of the can. I store the can upside down so that when I
reopen the can the fresh product is now at the top. The hard stuff is
now at the bottom of the can.


Bottom of the can or bottom of the *product* once the can is turned right side up?

Is the hard stuff hanging off the physical bottom of the can when it is upside down
or sitting on "top" of the product while the can is upside down?


As for liquid products that have to be stirred, pour into another
container being careful not to let the hard stuff come out.

If the liquid has to be stirred, that must mean that it separates. Isn't whatever you pour out
a "different" product than what was originally in the container when new? I can't imagine that
the ratio of ingredients is the same in the pourable portion vs. the hardened portion. It must
have separated somewhat prior to hardening, don't you think?

Bloxygen might be the best solution to keep the air away from the
product inside the can. I THINK it is heavier than air.

On 1/29/2018 10:25 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/29/18 8:07 AM, Leon wrote:
My solution to finish hardening on top in the can is to turn the can
upside down with a little Bloxygen on top before putting on the lid.
If the contents hardens it is on the bottom.

How did I not know about this stuff!?

But why do you flip the can if you don't have to?
If anything hardens on the lid, so what.
If it hardens on the bottom, then you're kicking it up when stirring, no?


I use wine box bags. Work great, I've used stuff that is 10-15 years old
w/o a problem. Everyone tells me that plastic bags don't work. Ok,
believe what you want. My BIL drinks a lot of wine, he had to swear off
beer because it started bothering him, so my wife told him I was looking
for the boxes, and he gave me 20-30 in one shot. Just clean them up,
fill, and squeeze the air out.

--
Jeff