Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2016 16:46:03 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.



Mabee not building, but renovating. Lot's of people will pay more for
the crap so they don't need to cut.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2016 16:46:03 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

usually studs are bought in large quantities and delivered to the job
by truck and one always expects a certain amount that will be good for
blocks etc

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper

that is interesting

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

they are used for walls so they get used

but why worry if you have a choice you can use other wood

i like select or #1 to minimize surprises

Straight grain that can handle load end to end without splitting.
Martin


On 7/15/2016 6:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

On 7/15/2016 7:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:


I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw.


There is the answer. On a jobsite that is $50 or so.

On 7/15/2016 6:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

That circumstance is always subject to change upon delivery of the next
pallet off the boxcar to the lumber dealer ... might be the other way
around on the next boxcar load.


I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

Trust me, someone is ... guaranteed.

It doesn't happen often, mainly for the reasons below, but I have been
known to refuse a load of material that was not up to my standards for
the purpose for which it was purchased.

Benefit of having a long standing _credit_ account with one of the
biggest lumber yards in this area; and their/my sales rep, with whom
I've been dealing for 15 years, is well aware that I make it a point to
personally inspect and sign off on every delivery, before it is unloaded.

Only took a time or two to get some personal involvement before it left
the yard ... but they know I'm gonna exercise a bit of judgement/provide
some wiggle room ... nothing is perfect, but it might be perfect enough,
providing you know how to handle less than perfect material and and make
it work without detriment to the project.

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On 7/16/2016 6:43 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2016 7:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:


I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw.


There is the answer. On a jobsite that is $50 or so.

Bingo ... or more in this day and age.

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"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...


Straight grain that can handle load end to end without splitting.

Yeah, not this stuff. A lot of it was already splitting, and it was worse
in almost every respect than the regular dimensional lumber. Not just one
or two bails either.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 11:48:22 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Yeah, not this stuff. A lot of it was already splitting, and it was
worse in almost every respect than the regular dimensional lumber.
Not just one or two bails either.


did you say what kind of wood

are you talking fir or something else

was the wood indoors

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting but at a home supply
they sit around and do what they do

once cover with siding and drywall and blocked and nailed and screwed
harder for them do what they do unconstrained

On 7/16/16 3:15 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting....


Cite, please?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
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---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 13:15:15 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 11:48:22 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Yeah, not this stuff. A lot of it was already splitting, and it was
worse in almost every respect than the regular dimensional lumber.
Not just one or two bails either.


did you say what kind of wood

are you talking fir or something else

was the wood indoors

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting but at a home supply
they sit around and do what they do

once cover with siding and drywall and blocked and nailed and screwed
harder for them do what they do unconstrained

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed - sometimes with some hemlock or Tamarak thrown
in for good measure - any "white" softwood they can get their hands
on.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 15:23:43 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 7/16/16 3:15 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting....


Cite, please?
The big thing is if they are not kiln dried you can NOT leave them
sitting out in the sun and expect them to remain anything close to
straight. Even kiln dried is not good to leave laying out in the open.
Get them from the bale to installed as soon as possible for best
results.

On 7/16/16 8:53 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 15:23:43 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 7/16/16 3:15 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting....


Cite, please?
The big thing is if they are not kiln dried you can NOT leave them
sitting out in the sun and expect them to remain anything close to
straight. Even kiln dried is not good to leave laying out in the
open. Get them from the bale to installed as soon as possible for
best results.


That has nothing do do with the time from harvesting.
I don't know of any framing lumber that isn't kiln dried.
What you said can be said of any raw wood product, including most
laminated ones.

The fact is, as long as kiln dried lumber is banded and out of the
elements it can be stored for years with no adverse effects.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/16/2016 9:50 PM, wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed -

All in the same board?

On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 09:48:24 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/16/2016 9:50 PM, wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed -

All in the same board?

Never used Monsanto lumber?

On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 09:48:24 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/16/2016 9:50 PM, wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed -

All in the same board?
Nope - but you have no choice. It's "whatever was standing" when they
cleaer cut.

On 7/17/2016 11:07 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 09:48:24 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/16/2016 9:50 PM, wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed -

All in the same board?

Never used Monsanto lumber?


Yes, they grow the Azek brand. Paint built in right at the tree.

On Mon, 18 Jul 2016 18:23:26 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/17/2016 11:07 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 09:48:24 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/16/2016 9:50 PM, wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed -

All in the same board?

Never used Monsanto lumber?


Yes, they grow the Azek brand. Paint built in right at the tree.

Nevermind...

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 21:50:38 -0400
wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed - sometimes with some hemlock or Tamarak thrown
in for good measure - any "white" softwood they can get their hands
on.

op never said which wood they were describing


but there are always choices and one is not to buy the crap and
sometimes you have to go somewhere else or choose a better grade

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 09:37:26 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 21:50:38 -0400
wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed - sometimes with some hemlock or Tamarak thrown
in for good measure - any "white" softwood they can get their hands
on.

op never said which wood they were describing


but there are always choices and one is not to buy the crap and
sometimes you have to go somewhere else or choose a better grade



The op said precut studs. Generally speeking they are lower quality
than general dimensional lumber sold at the same yard

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even though
they clearly mentioned studs

Electric Comet wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even
though they clearly mentioned studs

OP probably didn't say because OP didn't know because
OP was not shopping at a specialty hardwood lumber
dealer, and general lumberyards don't say what kind
of wood they're selling. As clare said (and you
apparently missed), construction lumber is just called
"SPF". That's all the OP is likely to have known.

John

On Wed, 20 Jul 2016 20:19:54 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Electric Comet wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even
though they clearly mentioned studs

OP probably didn't say because OP didn't know because
OP was not shopping at a specialty hardwood lumber
dealer, and general lumberyards don't say what kind
of wood they're selling. As clare said (and you
apparently missed), construction lumber is just called
"SPF". That's all the OP is likely to have known.

John
The electric comet likely didn't see my post because he plonked me
when he got "p"'d off at me for calling him out where he was wrong
some-where in the past.

On 7/20/2016 3:19 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even
though they clearly mentioned studs

OP probably didn't say because OP didn't know because
OP was not shopping at a specialty hardwood lumber
dealer, and general lumberyards don't say what kind
of wood they're selling. As clare said (and you
apparently missed), construction lumber is just called
"SPF". That's all the OP is likely to have known.

John


Actually in the South studs are also commonly made from SYP, Southern
Yellow Pine. Not the common P that is some times used in Spruce, Pine, Fir.

Typically SYP is a much harder and heavier wood.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 7/20/2016 3:19 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even
though they clearly mentioned studs

OP probably didn't say because OP didn't know because
OP was not shopping at a specialty hardwood lumber
dealer, and general lumberyards don't say what kind
of wood they're selling. As clare said (and you
apparently missed), construction lumber is just called
"SPF". That's all the OP is likely to have known.

John


Actually in the South studs are also commonly made from SYP, Southern
Yellow Pine. Not the common P that is some times used in Spruce,
Pine, Fir.

Typically SYP is a much harder and heavier wood.

True. Around here (i.e. Fla), those are always seperate and
are marked as Southern Yellow Pine. The normal run of the mill
2-bys are just marked SPF (if they're marked as anything at all).

John

On 7/21/2016 11:17 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 7/20/2016 3:19 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even
though they clearly mentioned studs

OP probably didn't say because OP didn't know because
OP was not shopping at a specialty hardwood lumber
dealer, and general lumberyards don't say what kind
of wood they're selling. As clare said (and you
apparently missed), construction lumber is just called
"SPF". That's all the OP is likely to have known.

John


Actually in the South studs are also commonly made from SYP, Southern
Yellow Pine. Not the common P that is some times used in Spruce,
Pine, Fir.

Typically SYP is a much harder and heavier wood.

True. Around here (i.e. Fla), those are always seperate and
are marked as Southern Yellow Pine. The normal run of the mill
2-bys are just marked SPF (if they're marked as anything at all).

John


Do you see much SYP in Florida? I was reading about a majority of
homes built years ago in southern Louisiana that don't have a big issue
with termites, apparently they are not interested in SYP. SPF was an
entirely different story however. I was wondering if Florida may have
witnessed the same.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:aM-dnXEPNo7RYA3KnZ2dnUU7-
:

Do you see much SYP in Florida? I was reading about a majority of
homes built years ago in southern Louisiana that don't have a big issue
with termites, apparently they are not interested in SYP. SPF was an
entirely different story however. I was wondering if Florida may have
witnessed the same.

It's not much used for home building now, because of the
hurricane code and other reasons. Almost everything is
block now. With SPF for interior framing and roof trusses
and stuff like that.

There was a time when it was the norm. The old growth pine,
especially the varietal called Dade County Pine, was too
hard for termites to eat (or carpenters to drive nails into,
in some cases), and resisted rot, too. Modern development
has pretty much eliminated those old houses in south Fla,
but they're still to be found upstate.

John

On Thu, 21 Jul 2016 09:10:45 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 7/20/2016 3:19 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even
though they clearly mentioned studs

OP probably didn't say because OP didn't know because
OP was not shopping at a specialty hardwood lumber
dealer, and general lumberyards don't say what kind
of wood they're selling. As clare said (and you
apparently missed), construction lumber is just called
"SPF". That's all the OP is likely to have known.

John


Actually in the South studs are also commonly made from SYP, Southern
Yellow Pine. Not the common P that is some times used in Spruce, Pine, Fir.

Typically SYP is a much harder and heavier wood.

It's quite a nice wood, actually. I've seen century old SYP floors
that were still serviceable.

On Thu, 21 Jul 2016 09:10:45 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 7/20/2016 3:19 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Electric Comet wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2016 20:33:30 -0400
wrote:

The op said precut studs.

op still did not say what kind of wood they were talking about even
though they clearly mentioned studs

OP probably didn't say because OP didn't know because
OP was not shopping at a specialty hardwood lumber
dealer, and general lumberyards don't say what kind
of wood they're selling. As clare said (and you
apparently missed), construction lumber is just called
"SPF". That's all the OP is likely to have known.

John


Actually in the South studs are also commonly made from SYP, Southern
Yellow Pine. Not the common P that is some times used in Spruce, Pine, Fir.

Typically SYP is a much harder and heavier wood.
Occaisionally we can by SYP dimensional lumber up here - sometimes in
pressure treated. The precut studs up here are virtually all low end
SPF

wrote in :


It's quite a nice wood, actually. I've seen century old SYP floors
that were still serviceable.

I've used SYP for ice rink boards, they seem to last about as long as PT,
maybe a little less but are much cheaper.

A good bunch of the PT around here is SYP.

It makes good tops on the lathe, but I haven't found any wood that's
unsuitable for that yet. (I've found unsuitable trees and some are better
than others, but pretty much any wood seems to work... Even plywood.)

Puckdropper

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in
web.com:

wrote in
:


It's quite a nice wood, actually. I've seen century old SYP floors
that were still serviceable.

I've used SYP for ice rink boards, they seem to last about as long as
PT, maybe a little less but are much cheaper.

There's a big difference between old growth yellow pine and
what you can get now. It's still a very strong wood, but
it doesn't have the rot and insect resistance of the close
grained old stuff.

John

On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 4:25:54 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jul 2016 09:10:45 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Actually in the South studs are also commonly made from SYP, Southern
Yellow Pine. Not the common P that is some times used in Spruce, Pine, Fir.

Typically SYP is a much harder and heavier wood.

It's quite a nice wood, actually. I've seen century old SYP floors
that were still serviceable.

At Monticello, two plus centuries. It's not clear whether the modern
trees and their lumber are the same, though. The environs of Monticello,
last I saw, were planted with other tree species.

"John McCoy" wrote in message
. ..


There was a time when it was the norm. The old growth pine,
especially the varietal called Dade County Pine, was too
hard for termites to eat (or carpenters to drive nails into,
in some cases), and resisted rot, too. Modern development
has pretty much eliminated those old houses in south Fla,
but they're still to be found upstate.

Sounds just like my first 1929-built two-bedroom frame house [for Leon
and Swing - a few blocks inside the North Loop on West 25th just a couple of
houses off North Shepherd]; almost always had to pre-drill the existing 1X6
pine trim. I remember the wood as being old growth loblolly pine, dense
account high in tar content and most often fractionally thicker than 3/4
inch. And the whole structure was [3-5/8 X 1-5/8] two-bys including the
rafters though generously braced. I ripped many 1/8 inch strips when I
started closing up a doorway in one location and reframing in another. Not
a header in the house either. 1X10 shiplap interior walls still had
cloth-backed wallpaper under the 1/4 inch drywall and 117 exterior siding
without sheathing or felt. Door and window openings were hand hewn when it
was necessary to size into a full width piece of 1X10 or the 117. Floors
were pine, too, with no subflooring [jeez, did leak cold air!].
The carpenters that built that place had a trick for dealing with a
bowed and twisted two by. When I started opening up walls I found several
studs that appeared to have been sliced into lengthwise [with a coping saw
of some sort?] in order to twist the stud into proper placement on the sole
and top plates.

Dave in Houston

"John McCoy" wrote in message
. ..

There's a big difference between old growth yellow pine and
what you can get now. It's still a very strong wood, but
it doesn't have the rot and insect resistance of the close
grained old stuff.

Hunted an East Texas lease for 12 or 13 years or so back in the 70s and
80s on lumber/paper company acreage, the lease un by a local whose entire
working career was with Kirby Lumber. It was second growth having been
logged in the early 1900s when the trees were moved from their location on
rail trams
"These trees have been developed for fast growth and to hold paint,"
Louie once told me. Growth cycle from planting to harvest being 30 years,
give or take,

Dave in Houston

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 2:00:14 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 4:25:54 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jul 2016 09:10:45 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Actually in the South studs are also commonly made from SYP, Southern
Yellow Pine. Not the common P that is some times used in Spruce, Pine, Fir.

Typically SYP is a much harder and heavier wood.

It's quite a nice wood, actually. I've seen century old SYP floors
that were still serviceable.

At Monticello, two plus centuries. It's not clear whether the modern
trees and their lumber are the same, though. The environs of Monticello,
last I saw, were planted with other tree species.

I think Monticello's construction is of longleaf pine, specifically for the exposed interior applications, and it's certainly not the same as today's fast-growing pine lumbers.

Though most southern pines are lumped into the SYP category, the premium old lumber was/is the longleaf pine, specifically the heart wood. Grows much slower than other species of pine, hence there are very few LLP trees still around. Very tight grained lumber. Almost all new construction, with LLP, is salvaged lumber, and used for flooring, exposed beams and other exposed decor type applications. No one, in their right mind, would use this premium old lumber for rough framing and the like.

From what I understand, for lots of long ago construction in the SE, the old growth LLP was the lumber of choice for exposed interior applications and old growth cypress was used for exterior siding and trim.... the red cypress specifically for doors & window sashes, framing & trim.

Though I've never tried to verify, I'd like to think the 16 salvaged 1X12X21' boards, I have, is longleaf pine. Someday, I'll figure out what project(s) to make with them.

Sonny

On 7/23/2016 8:49 AM, Dave in SoTex wrote:

Sounds just like my first 1929-built two-bedroom frame house [for
Leon and Swing - a few blocks inside the North Loop on West 25th just a
couple of houses off North Shepherd]; almost always had to pre-drill the
existing 1X6 pine trim. I remember the wood as being old growth
loblolly pine, dense account high in tar content and most often
fractionally thicker than 3/4 inch. And the whole structure was [3-5/8
X 1-5/8] two-bys including the rafters though generously braced. I
ripped many 1/8 inch strips when I started closing up a doorway in one
location and reframing in another. Not a header in the house either.
1X10 shiplap interior walls still had cloth-backed wallpaper under the
1/4 inch drywall and 117 exterior siding without sheathing or felt.
Door and window openings were hand hewn when it was necessary to size
into a full width piece of 1X10 or the 117. Floors were pine, too, with
no subflooring [jeez, did leak cold air!].
The carpenters that built that place had a trick for dealing with a
bowed and twisted two by. When I started opening up walls I found
several studs that appeared to have been sliced into lengthwise [with a
coping saw of some sort?] in order to twist the stud into proper
placement on the sole and top plates.

Dave in Houston

Sounds like my house I owned just North of 20th on Columbia; and the one
which I recently did some remodeling on Oxford, just around the corner
from that one.

Good thing is that Grogan Lumber on Yale still has much of that old trim
(shoe, base, crown, door) still in stock ... saved my butt on many
occasions.

All the new trim on this added BR closet matched perfectly with the
existing from the 30's, from their still in stock trim:

https://goo.gl/photos/rhpJtfv7s2TGvnnR6

Love it when you can do that ...

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"Dave in SoTex" wrote in
:

And the whole structure was
[3-5/8 X 1-5/8] two-bys including the rafters though generously
braced.

There, see, already undersized lumber. A trend that goes
way back :-)

(I recall helping tear down an old wall up in N Fla, which
had actual 2x4 two-bys. Altho I suspect they had been locally
sawn, rather than coming from a commercial mill).

The carpenters that built that place had a trick for dealing with a
bowed and twisted two by. When I started opening up walls I found
several studs that appeared to have been sliced into lengthwise [with
a coping saw of some sort?] in order to twist the stud into proper
placement on the sole and top plates.

Boatbuilders have a word for that, which is escaping me now.
Of course, in their case they're trying to get a piece of
lumber to twist, not to correct it.

John

Sonny wrote in
:

From what I understand, for lots of long ago construction in the SE,
the old growth LLP was the lumber of choice for exposed interior
applications and old growth cypress was used for exterior siding and
trim.... the red cypress specifically for doors & window sashes,
framing & trim.

Cypress is a hell of a lot easier to work, so that makes
sense. Especially if you're making sash and the like with
a hand plane.

John

"John McCoy" wrote in message
. ..

Boatbuilders have a word for that, which is escaping me now.
Of course, in their case they're trying to get a piece of
lumber to twist, not to correct it.

Where's Lew Hodgett when you need him?

Dave in SoTex

"John McCoy" wrote in message
.. .

Cypress is a hell of a lot easier to work, so that makes
sense. Especially if you're making sash and the like with
a hand plane.

I worked in the Southern Pacific Building on Franklin at Travis in the
north end of downtown Houston. The building was completed in 1912 and all
the windows for all nine floors were double-hung cypress. In the late 70s
or early 80 the company replaced them one and all with bronzed double-glazed
aluminum. Tried my damndest to get my hands on a dozen or so of those
thinking they'd make a bodacious greenhouse.
To no avail; company policy did not allow employees to acquire company
salvage.

Dave in SoTex