Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2016 16:46:03 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.



Mabee not building, but renovating. Lot's of people will pay more for
the crap so they don't need to cut.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2016 16:46:03 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

usually studs are bought in large quantities and delivered to the job
by truck and one always expects a certain amount that will be good for
blocks etc

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper

that is interesting

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

they are used for walls so they get used

but why worry if you have a choice you can use other wood

i like select or #1 to minimize surprises

Straight grain that can handle load end to end without splitting.
Martin


On 7/15/2016 6:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...


Straight grain that can handle load end to end without splitting.

Yeah, not this stuff. A lot of it was already splitting, and it was worse
in almost every respect than the regular dimensional lumber. Not just one
or two bails either.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 11:48:22 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Yeah, not this stuff. A lot of it was already splitting, and it was
worse in almost every respect than the regular dimensional lumber.
Not just one or two bails either.


did you say what kind of wood

are you talking fir or something else

was the wood indoors

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting but at a home supply
they sit around and do what they do

once cover with siding and drywall and blocked and nailed and screwed
harder for them do what they do unconstrained

On 7/16/16 3:15 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting....


Cite, please?


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On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 15:23:43 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 7/16/16 3:15 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting....


Cite, please?
The big thing is if they are not kiln dried you can NOT leave them
sitting out in the sun and expect them to remain anything close to
straight. Even kiln dried is not good to leave laying out in the open.
Get them from the bale to installed as soon as possible for best
results.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 13:15:15 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 11:48:22 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Yeah, not this stuff. A lot of it was already splitting, and it was
worse in almost every respect than the regular dimensional lumber.
Not just one or two bails either.


did you say what kind of wood

are you talking fir or something else

was the wood indoors

studs are meant to be used soon after harvesting but at a home supply
they sit around and do what they do

once cover with siding and drywall and blocked and nailed and screwed
harder for them do what they do unconstrained

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed - sometimes with some hemlock or Tamarak thrown
in for good measure - any "white" softwood they can get their hands
on.

On 7/16/2016 9:50 PM, wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed -

All in the same board?

On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 21:50:38 -0400
wrote:

Around here virtually all construction lumber is "SPF" -
Spruce/Pine/Fir mixed - sometimes with some hemlock or Tamarak thrown
in for good measure - any "white" softwood they can get their hands
on.

op never said which wood they were describing


but there are always choices and one is not to buy the crap and
sometimes you have to go somewhere else or choose a better grade

On 7/15/2016 7:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:


I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw.


There is the answer. On a jobsite that is $50 or so.

On 7/16/2016 6:43 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2016 7:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:


I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw.


There is the answer. On a jobsite that is $50 or so.

Bingo ... or more in this day and age.

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On 7/15/2016 6:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Why do studs cost more than 8 footers, and consist of crappier lumber.

Seriously. Kiln dried 2x4 8s in two different stores were cheaper and
mostly straight. Their stud length was wet, moldy, twisted, splintering and
split, and atleast 10% (maybe more) had signs of powder post beatle damage.
I decided it wasn't worth the convenience of not having to cut a few inches
off the end.

I found the same thing with the 2X6s.

That circumstance is always subject to change upon delivery of the next
pallet off the boxcar to the lumber dealer ... might be the other way
around on the next boxcar load.


I just bought 8 footers and spent an hour lopping off the ends with the
miter saw. Framing is so much nicer with decent lumber.

I hope nobody is actually building houses with that crap.

Trust me, someone is ... guaranteed.

It doesn't happen often, mainly for the reasons below, but I have been
known to refuse a load of material that was not up to my standards for
the purpose for which it was purchased.

Benefit of having a long standing _credit_ account with one of the
biggest lumber yards in this area; and their/my sales rep, with whom
I've been dealing for 15 years, is well aware that I make it a point to
personally inspect and sign off on every delivery, before it is unloaded.

Only took a time or two to get some personal involvement before it left
the yard ... but they know I'm gonna exercise a bit of judgement/provide
some wiggle room ... nothing is perfect, but it might be perfect enough,
providing you know how to handle less than perfect material and and make
it work without detriment to the project.

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