In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire). Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be
protected with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.
Also when I say "regular", I do mean 240v (2-pole).

Thanks!
Bill




Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

--
Froz....

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be
protected with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.
Also when I say "regular", I do mean 240v (2-pole).

Thanks!
Bill

Please advise. Thank you!

In trying to answer my question, I learned that
"all circuit breakers are "time delay" by nature of their design."

So, I guess we'll see what happens...

Progress in the shop is continuing after a delay or two in recent years
caused by major events.

Bill

On 06/08/2016 2:19 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

Nope, he'll be fine (as he discovered in further research and posted) as
circuit breaker as opposed to fast-acting fuse has enough inherent lag
time for the motor...

--

Bill wrote:


Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be
protected with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.
Also when I say "regular", I do mean 240v (2-pole).

Thanks!
Bill

Please advise. Thank you!

In trying to answer my question, I learned that
"all circuit breakers are "time delay" by nature of their design."

So, I guess we'll see what happens...

Progress in the shop is continuing after a delay or two in recent years
caused by major events.

Bill

Congratulations, Bill! I've had my Unisaw (Delta 36-844) for 6 years
and have had no problems with #12 Romex (about 15ft from sub-panel)
and this (standard?) Siemens breaker:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens-2...220U/100074746

On 6/8/16 2:05 PM, Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire). Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

As others are pointing out, you'll be fine.
Old fuses would blow with the initial spike of current when saw motor
kicked on.
A modern circuit breaker needs to heat up to trip (except in the case of
a short) so it can't get hot enough to trip from the very short current
spike of the motor's start-up.

At least that's my layman's explanation of it. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 06/08/2016 3:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
....

Old fuses would blow with the initial spike of current when saw motor
kicked on.

"Fast-acting" ones, yes, "slo-blo" (specifically designed for motor
loads and the like with an initial short-lived high-current transient)
wouldn't.

A modern circuit breaker needs to heat up to trip (except in the case of
a short) so it can't get hot enough to trip from the very short current
spike of the motor's start-up.
....

The fuse had to heat up, too (in fact, it had to actually melt) but the
idea is correct; they are designed to handle motor loads inherently to
be general-purpose; it would be a real pain to have to have separate
breakers for the application.

The time for a dead short to heat up and trip will be quite a lot
shorter than that for the motor start; while a motor start is a
(relatively) high current (say 3X or so of full load), that of a dead
short is I=V/(R--zero) -- Infinite.

--

FrozenNorth wrote:
On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.


Don't know why you'd say that. He's well within the current loads with
#12 wire and an 20A breaker.

--
-Mike-

dpb wrote:
On 06/08/2016 3:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...

Old fuses would blow with the initial spike of current when saw motor
kicked on.

"Fast-acting" ones, yes, "slo-blo" (specifically designed for motor
loads and the like with an initial short-lived high-current transient)
wouldn't.

A modern circuit breaker needs to heat up to trip (except in the case of
a short) so it can't get hot enough to trip from the very short current
spike of the motor's start-up.
...

The fuse had to heat up, too (in fact, it had to actually melt) but the
idea is correct; they are designed to handle motor loads inherently to
be general-purpose; it would be a real pain to have to have separate
breakers for the application.

The time for a dead short to heat up and trip will be quite a lot
shorter than that for the motor start; while a motor start is a
(relatively) high current (say 3X or so of full load), that of a dead
short is I=V/(R--zero) -- Infinite.


So... you basically agreed with the previous poster...


--
-Mike-

On 06/08/2016 5:38 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dpb wrote:
On 06/08/2016 3:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...

Old fuses would blow with the initial spike of current when saw motor
kicked on.

"Fast-acting" ones, yes, "slo-blo" (specifically designed for motor
loads and the like with an initial short-lived high-current transient)
wouldn't.

A modern circuit breaker needs to heat up to trip (except in the case of
a short) so it can't get hot enough to trip from the very short current
spike of the motor's start-up.
...

The fuse had to heat up, too (in fact, it had to actually melt) but the
idea is correct; they are designed to handle motor loads inherently to
be general-purpose; it would be a real pain to have to have separate
breakers for the application.

The time for a dead short to heat up and trip will be quite a lot
shorter than that for the motor start; while a motor start is a
(relatively) high current (say 3X or so of full load), that of a dead
short is I=V/(R--zero) -- Infinite.


So... you basically agreed with the previous poster...

Well, yes, I said that in the very beginning that his general ideas
were/are correct but added some amplification as to "why" and "what"
actually is going on.

Was that needing comment for some reason?

--

dpb wrote:
On 06/08/2016 5:38 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dpb wrote:
On 06/08/2016 3:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...

Old fuses would blow with the initial spike of current when saw motor
kicked on.

"Fast-acting" ones, yes, "slo-blo" (specifically designed for motor
loads and the like with an initial short-lived high-current transient)
wouldn't.

A modern circuit breaker needs to heat up to trip (except in the
case of
a short) so it can't get hot enough to trip from the very short current
spike of the motor's start-up.
...

The fuse had to heat up, too (in fact, it had to actually melt) but the
idea is correct; they are designed to handle motor loads inherently to
be general-purpose; it would be a real pain to have to have separate
breakers for the application.

The time for a dead short to heat up and trip will be quite a lot
shorter than that for the motor start; while a motor start is a
(relatively) high current (say 3X or so of full load), that of a dead
short is I=V/(R--zero) -- Infinite.


So... you basically agreed with the previous poster...

Well, yes, I said that in the very beginning that his general ideas
were/are correct but added some amplification as to "why" and "what"
actually is going on.

Was that needing comment for some reason?


Maybe my fault for having missed that up front. Sorry.



--
-Mike-

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:05:14 -0400, Bill
wrote:

In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire). Please advise. Thank you!

You're good to go. Household circuit breakers are pretty much
equivalent to "slow blow" fuses.

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:07:57 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.

You may want to put a 30A breaker on it. In any case, be sure the
breaker you use is "listed" for the wire you're using.

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

Nonsense. My 3HP Unisaur has been on a 20A (240V) circuit, with
20-30' of 12-2 W/G between it and the panel for years, with zero
trips. Come to think of it, it was ~50' in my last house.

On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 16:43:23 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 06/08/2016 3:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...

Old fuses would blow with the initial spike of current when saw motor
kicked on.

"Fast-acting" ones, yes, "slo-blo" (specifically designed for motor
loads and the like with an initial short-lived high-current transient)
wouldn't.

A modern circuit breaker needs to heat up to trip (except in the case of
a short) so it can't get hot enough to trip from the very short current
spike of the motor's start-up.
...

The fuse had to heat up, too (in fact, it had to actually melt) but the
idea is correct; they are designed to handle motoin adr loads inherently to
be general-purpose; it would be a real pain to have to have separate
breakers for the application.

The time for a dead short to heat up and trip will be quite a lot
shorter than that for the motor start; while a motor start is a
(relatively) high current (say 3X or so of full load), that of a dead
short is I=V/(R--zero) -- Infinite.

No, in addition to the thermal detector, circuit breakers have a
magnetic trip. A high enough current will trip the circuit before the
thermal detector can trip.

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.

Mark

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.


20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.



--
-Mike-

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.


20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.

Not true. The motor will draw half the current at 240V, as it would
wired for 120V.

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.


20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.

Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark

krw wrote:
dpb wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:


The OP is satisfied. I just bought a outlet to match the saw's male
connector.

There's nothing like an electrical thread to create action around here.
Thank you for your willingness to help!

Bill

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:58:58 -0400, Bill
wrote:

krw wrote:
dpb wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:


The OP is satisfied. I just bought a outlet to match the saw's male
connector.

You done good.

There's nothing like an electrical thread to create action around here.
Thank you for your willingness to help!

There are a bunch of woodworking EEs. ;-) It seems the two
disciplines use some of the same mental skills.

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.


20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.

Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark

Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.

krw wrote in news:ghkhlbpfmnljfsti8b697rab3upu9593ap@
4ax.com:


There are a bunch of woodworking EEs. ;-) It seems the two
disciplines use some of the same mental skills.


Looks like you're on to something.
- Sparks flying is a bad thing.
- You can glue/solder pieces together, but it's not always a good idea.
- You can never have too many clamps/outlets.
- Measure twice, cut once applies to electricity too. (Measure, power good,
cut off at breaker, measure again, no power, probably safe to work.)
- You don't have to match colors to make things work, but not doing so is
the sure sign of a clueless hack. (Intentional mismatching is ok.)
- Hand planes and wire strippers remove the outer surface of the workpiece.
- Copper turns green with age, so do trees.
- Running the wood backwards through the saw won't reattach it... Not even
if you swap the motor leads.
- The sun can be used to generate wood or electricity.

On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 19:48:35 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.


20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.

Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark

Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.

Yes, in the circuit external to the motor but not if the motor itself
is considered. The voltage across each winding is 120V and the
current in each is 10A, whether it's wired as 120V (parallel windings)
or 240V (series).

In article ,
says...

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill

Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.

If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.


20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.

Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark

Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.

However a more that needs 20 amps at 110 volts only needs 10 at 220.

J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...
On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).
Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill
Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.
If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.

20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.
Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark
Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.
However a more that needs 20 amps at 110 volts only needs 10 at 220.
That's because it gets 10 amps on Each of Two legs at the same time (I
think "legs" is the right word, I could be wrong).

On 6/8/2016 2:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.

Have at it, you're set to make sawdust ... no further need for bits and
bytes.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 7:19:16 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 6/8/2016 2:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.

Have at it, you're set to make sawdust ... no further need for bits and
bytes.


..... Unless he's using Austrailian electricity or has a Canadian saw/sideways breaker box!?

Sonny

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 1:45:41 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...
On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).
Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill
Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.
If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.

20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.
Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark
Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.
However a more that needs 20 amps at 110 volts only needs 10 at 220.
That's because it gets 10 amps on Each of Two legs at the same time (I
think "legs" is the right word, I could be wrong).

Even though this is not DC...Ohm's Law says your theory is wrong. I=E/R, if you double the voltage you halve the current. Also, wattage would prove that out. The same motor wired 240, would draw half what it did on 120. On single phase, the neutral (white or ground) is the center-tap of the power transformer. That's why it's half the voltage.

Bill wrote in :

In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire). Please advise. Thank you!

20 amp circuit breaker is fine.

Swingman wrote:

Have at it, you're set to make sawdust ... no further need for bits
and bytes.

Thank you! But I rather enjoy the bits and bytes that connect me with
other folks, such as yourself!

Bill

Bob Villa wrote:
On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 1:45:41 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...
On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).
Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill
Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.
If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.

20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.
Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark
Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.
However a more that needs 20 amps at 110 volts only needs 10 at 220.
That's because it gets 10 amps on Each of Two legs at the same time (I
think "legs" is the right word, I could be wrong).
Even though this is not DC...Ohm's Law says your theory is wrong. I=E/R, if you double the voltage you halve the current. Also, wattage would prove that out. The same motor wired 240, would draw

I get it. I'm also gently reminded/informed that a 240V circuit is Not
the equivalent of two 120v circuits.

Thanks,
Bill


half what it did on 120. On single phase, the neutral (white or ground) is the center-tap of the power transformer. That's why it's half the voltage.

On 6/9/2016 4:23 PM, Bill wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:
On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 1:45:41 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...
On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841),
it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be
protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to
use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).
Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill
Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to
the saw.
If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.

20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.
Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20
amps,
10 per leg.

Mark
Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the
circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.
However a more that needs 20 amps at 110 volts only needs 10 at 220.
That's because it gets 10 amps on Each of Two legs at the same time (I
think "legs" is the right word, I could be wrong).
Even though this is not DC...Ohm's Law says your theory is wrong.
I=E/R, if you double the voltage you halve the current. Also, wattage
would prove that out. The same motor wired 240, would draw

I get it. I'm also gently reminded/informed that a 240V circuit is Not
the equivalent of two 120v circuits.


But you do realize that the 240 in your home is made up of 2 out of
phase 120 circuits...

Leon wrote:
On 6/9/2016 4:23 PM, Bill wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:
Even though this is not DC...Ohm's Law says your theory is wrong.
I=E/R, if you double the voltage you halve the current. Also, wattage
would prove that out. The same motor wired 240, would draw

I get it. I'm also gently reminded/informed that a 240V circuit is Not
the equivalent of two 120v circuits.


But you do realize that the 240 in your home is made up of 2 out of
phase 120 circuits...


Yes, that's most-surely what led to my confusion about the way a 240v
circuit works...
So, a 240v circuit apparently doesn't have a direction....or rather, it
has 2 directions at the same time, from one leg to another, and vice-versa.

Bill

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 4:58:37 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 6/9/2016 4:23 PM, Bill wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:
Even though this is not DC...Ohm's Law says your theory is wrong.
I=E/R, if you double the voltage you halve the current. Also, wattage
would prove that out. The same motor wired 240, would draw

I get it. I'm also gently reminded/informed that a 240V circuit is Not
the equivalent of two 120v circuits.


But you do realize that the 240 in your home is made up of 2 out of
phase 120 circuits...


Yes, that's most-surely what led to my confusion about the way a 240v
circuit works...
So, a 240v circuit apparently doesn't have a direction....or rather, it
has 2 directions at the same time, from one leg to another, and vice-versa.

Bill

....half of your 120 volt circuits would be out of phase with the other half. And there are 120 direction changes (60 cycles) in one second.

Bob Villa wrote:
On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 4:58:37 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 6/9/2016 4:23 PM, Bill wrote:
Bob Villa wrote:
Even though this is not DC...Ohm's Law says your theory is wrong.
I=E/R, if you double the voltage you halve the current. Also, wattage
would prove that out. The same motor wired 240, would draw
I get it. I'm also gently reminded/informed that a 240V circuit is Not
the equivalent of two 120v circuits.

But you do realize that the 240 in your home is made up of 2 out of
phase 120 circuits...

Yes, that's most-surely what led to my confusion about the way a 240v
circuit works...
So, a 240v circuit apparently doesn't have a direction....or rather, it
has 2 directions at the same time, from one leg to another, and vice-versa.

Bill
...half of your 120 volt circuits would be out of phase with the other half. And there are 120 direction changes (60 cycles) in one second.

I get it! Thanks! Am I the only one here who didn't know that?

Bill

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 17:23:47 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Bob Villa wrote:
On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 1:45:41 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
In article ,
says...
On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 8:55:19 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:30:09 -0400, Mike Marlow
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 15:19:50 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2016-06-08 3:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).
Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.


Please advise. Thank you!

Bill
Prepare for a few breaker pops, hope the fuse panel is close to the saw.
If wired for 120 V I would say yes, if wire for 240 V probably not.

20 amps is 20 amps. Don't matter whether you're running 120 or 240.
Yes but a 240 V circuit has two 20 amp leads, a motor drawing 20 amps,
10 per leg.

Mark
Current (when there is a load) is the same at any place in the circuit, regardless of being 120 or 240.
However a more that needs 20 amps at 110 volts only needs 10 at 220.
That's because it gets 10 amps on Each of Two legs at the same time (I
think "legs" is the right word, I could be wrong).
Even though this is not DC...Ohm's Law says your theory is wrong. I=E/R, if you double the voltage you halve the current. Also, wattage would prove that out. The same motor wired 240, would draw

I get it. I'm also gently reminded/informed that a 240V circuit is Not
the equivalent of two 120v circuits.

It is, really, except that the two circuits are out of phase, so they
add (if they were in-phase, they'd subtract).

Thanks,
Bill


half what it did on 120. On single phase, the neutral (white or ground) is the center-tap of the power transformer. That's why it's half the voltage.


Yes, on the pole, and the neutral is brought into the panel. However,
there is no neutral in this (240V) circuit. It's not needed because
the saw doesn't use 120V (if wired for 240V).

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 05:42:47 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 7:19:16 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 6/8/2016 2:07 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
In the owner's manual for my (new to me) Delta TS (36-841), it says:

"This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected
with a 20 Amp time lag fuse."

Not being aware of this detail until now, I was just going to use a
regular 20-Amp circuit-breaker (I ran #12 wire).

Correction, I ran #10 wire, for this.

Have at it, you're set to make sawdust ... no further need for bits and
bytes.


.... Unless he's using Austrailian electricity or has a Canadian saw/sideways breaker box!?

Does the Australian electricity turn the other way?