I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on
using vinegar rather than electrolysis.

Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the
other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete.
It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well
and quickly.

I tried the same on a cast iron machinists table I got recently. it had
a coat of rust and would not work for welding (ground). put some paper
towels on and poured the vinegar on, the rust came off and now my ohm
meter shows excellent conduction. Before the meter would not move, and
sanding the rust was not working... so I'm really happy about this.
Cheap, stinks, easily neutraulized with water, just oil after.

You do have to clean the parts first, the vinegar won't cut through oil
and grease.
--
Jeff

On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on
using vinegar rather than electrolysis.

Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the
other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete.
It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well
and quickly.

I tried the same on a cast iron machinists table I got recently. it had
a coat of rust and would not work for welding (ground). put some paper
towels on and poured the vinegar on, the rust came off and now my ohm
meter shows excellent conduction. Before the meter would not move, and
sanding the rust was not working... so I'm really happy about this.
Cheap, stinks, easily neutraulized with water, just oil after.

You do have to clean the parts first, the vinegar won't cut through oil
and grease.


Good to know! I have also found, by accident, hat most any Titebond
type PVA wood glue will remove rust also.

On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on
using vinegar rather than electrolysis.

Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the
other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete.
It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well
and quickly.

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

I just used it last week to do my every 6 month drain maintenance on all
the drains in the house (with baking soda); to clean out the Kuerig
coffee maker, and freshen up the dishwasher; to kill some weeds growing
up through the decomposed granite (in lieu of RoundUp).

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 5/31/2016 11:07 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on
using vinegar rather than electrolysis.

Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the
other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete.
It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well
and quickly.

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

I just used it last week to do my every 6 month drain maintenance on all
the drains in the house (with baking soda); to clean out the Kuerig
coffee maker, and freshen up the dishwasher; to kill some weeds growing
up through the decomposed granite (in lieu of RoundUp).

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.


After my AC guy told me to use vinegar instead of bleach, cheaper, in
the AC drain I also started using it in my sinks.
Soak you faucet aerator in vinegar and it works like new again.

Swingman wrote:
On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on
using vinegar rather than electrolysis.

Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the
other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete.
It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well
and quickly.

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

I just used it last week to do my every 6 month drain maintenance on all
the drains in the house (with baking soda); to clean out the Kuerig
coffee maker, and freshen up the dishwasher; to kill some weeds growing
up through the decomposed granite (in lieu of RoundUp).

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better.

--
GW Ross

Abandon the search for Truth; settle
for a good fantasy.

On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote:

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better.

No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman writes:
On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote:

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better.

No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher.

Speak for yourself :-)

On 5/31/2016 1:55 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Swingman writes:
On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote:

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better.

No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher.

Speak for yourself :-)

I'll cheerfully provide the gumbo just to watch that. lol

Now, if you eat boiled crawfish with chopsticks, we could take that on
the road...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Tue, 31 May 2016 12:20:31 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote:

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better.

No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher.

BBQ butts are pretty good.

On 2016-05-31, G. Ross wrote:

Swingman wrote:

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better.

Yeah. It's often referred to as "sticky" rice. A distinct species of
rice which is very "glutinous" (gummy) and is supposed to cook up like
that. If you don't like yer rice, "gummy", then choose a different
type of rice. Long white rice and basmati are "fluffy" rices.

nb

On 5/31/2016 2:08 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-05-31, G. Ross wrote:

Swingman wrote:

And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice
cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy.

But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better.

Yeah. It's often referred to as "sticky" rice. A distinct species of
rice which is very "glutinous" (gummy) and is supposed to cook up like
that. If you don't like yer rice, "gummy", then choose a different
type of rice. Long white rice and basmati are "fluffy" rices.

Look at you .. telling a coonass, who can look at any rice field and
tell you how much gravy it will take to cover it up, about rice??

Besides, I have a wife who I guarantee will never fail to make _any_
rice gummy ... that's apparently how they teach'em in AR.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

...snip...

to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker.

OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers:

I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There
was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless
steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the
pot and let it soak.

This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom
(inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's
my concern:

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes
away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

..snip...

to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker.

OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers:

I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There
was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my
stainless
steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the
pot and let it soak.

This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the
bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust
yet but here's
my concern:

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot
exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so
that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee
in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy
percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

Dry it after using.

On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 1:52:04 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

..snip...

to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker.

OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers:

I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There
was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my
stainless
steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the
pot and let it soak.

This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the
bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust
yet but here's
my concern:

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot
exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so
that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee
in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy
percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

Dry it after using.

While camping? Come on...

;-)

On 06/01/2016 1:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 1:52:04 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
....

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot
exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so
that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee
in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy
percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

Dry it after using.

While camping? Come on...

;-)

Camping and worrying about a little rust don't seem to jibe, either...

Shoulda' not removed the protective layer, it'd kept it all covered!

I'm sure none of the high-temp enamel-repair paints are technically
covered for food contact, but I'd think it highly unlikely would be any
real issue once were fully cured and baked out a time or two.

OTOH, I really doubt there's a serious issue anyway for such occasional
use unless it had a lead-soldered seam or somesuch (and even there I'd
not expect the exposure to be significant owing simply to it not being
an every day occurrence).

$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc, etc., etc., ...

--

On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

..snip...

to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker.

OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers:

I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There
was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless
steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the
pot and let it soak.

This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom
(inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's
my concern:

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes
away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain,
I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the
chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I
don't know.

On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

..snip...

to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker.

OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers:

I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There
was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless
steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the
pot and let it soak.

This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom
(inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's
my concern:

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes
away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain,
I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the
chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I
don't know.

It's similar to this, which I've always known to be enamel:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3815107...&ul_noapp=true

No, the rust isn't through the bottom. After further inspection this evening
it appears that the base of the grounds basket has worn away the enamel on
the inside bottom of the pot in some spots from use over the years.

On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 16:09:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

..snip...

to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker.

OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers:

I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There
was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless
steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the
pot and let it soak.

This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom
(inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's
my concern:

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes
away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain,
I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the
chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I
don't know.

It's similar to this, which I've always known to be enamel:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3815107...&ul_noapp=true

No, the rust isn't through the bottom. After further inspection this evening
it appears that the base of the grounds basket has worn away the enamel on
the inside bottom of the pot in some spots from use over the years.
It's called "vitrified enamel" The enamel is baked to a "glass"
finish.

On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 16:09:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:

Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most
useful chemical compounds known to man.

..snip...

to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker.

OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers:

I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There
was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless
steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the
pot and let it soak.

This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom
(inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's
my concern:

I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing
the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes
away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I
mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-)

Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a
food-safe manner?

If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain,
I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the
chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I
don't know.

It's similar to this, which I've always known to be enamel:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3815107...&ul_noapp=true

No, the rust isn't through the bottom. After further inspection this evening
it appears that the base of the grounds basket has worn away the enamel on
the inside bottom of the pot in some spots from use over the years.

Sorry, I meant if the rust is through the porcelain/enamelware. You
would know because there would definitely be an edge where you can
catch your fingernail on it, or your skin would feel the edge.

Had a pan that did that, and OUCH, I felt it in my mouth a piece or
two, very tiny. In my case I tossed the pan lest anyone at home would
use it.

So if you use it, keep a watchful eye for future deterioration.

And Clare was right on the money.

On Tue, 31 May 2016 11:07:06 -0400
woodchucker wrote:

complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

main ingredient is water in vinegar

water removes rust well too once oils and grease are removed

maybe the acids in vinegar increases the reaction time or it may
make the water penetrate better

might be improved ion exchange over just plain water

hmmmm

On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not
as much today.

Markem writes:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not
as much today.

Acetic acid has a number of uses, including as precursor to PVA (which
is why PVA glues have a vinegar odor) and a component in Acetylsalicyclic acid
(ASA), AKA Aspirin.

Vinegar is very dilute Acetic acid.

Scott Lurndal wrote:
Markem writes:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not
as much today.

Acetic acid has a number of uses, including as precursor to PVA
(which
is why PVA glues have a vinegar odor) and a component in
Acetylsalicyclic acid (ASA), AKA Aspirin.

Vinegar is very dilute Acetic acid.

Plus other stuff depending upon from what it was made.

Markem wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not
as much today.

I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard
of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is
often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic.

On Tue, 31 May 2016 17:47:27 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not
as much today.

I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard
of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is
often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid

3 to 9 percent of vinegar is acetic acid, more diluted than a stop
bath but the same acid.

Markem wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 17:47:27 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Markem wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably
not
as much today.

I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met
or heard of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar,
no. The acid is often used to stop the action of the developer
which is basic.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid

3 to 9 percent of vinegar is acetic acid,

Plus the other stuff.

more diluted than a stop bath

Glacial acetic acid is generally 28% acid. I never measured but probably
used about 1 ounce per 32 ounces of water which would be around 1% or less.

On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 4:47:41 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
Markem wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet

It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not
as much today.

I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard
of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is
often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic.

He probably meant "vinegar" in a generic sense, rather than household vinegar, per se.

Most medical "film" processing is all digital, today..... X-rays, CTs, MRIs, etc. .... Probably similarly with regular photography. Digital makes images more clear and sharp, as opposed to old style X-ray, etal, imaging and processing. Zeroing in on the mass of a patient or area to be imaged, via computerized "measuring", is much more efficient and exacting, than a tech's manual measuring & positioning, etc. Digital facilitates a real helpful advantage, since one can send images across the world in an instant, vs hand carrying sheets of negatives from office to office.

Soon after we retired, our "old style" (sheet film) liquid Developer & Fixer (vinegar) X-ray processing became obsolete. I'm not sure if film companies even make available the hardcopy film, for those obsolete processors/processing, anymore.

Sonny

Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 11:07:06 -0400
woodchucker wrote:

complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust
really well and quickly.

main ingredient is water in vinegar

water removes rust well too once oils and grease are removed

maybe the acids in vinegar increases the reaction time or it may
make the water penetrate better

might be improved ion exchange over just plain water

hmmmm

Or maybe - JUST MAYBE - it (the acid in the vinegar) is reducing the ferric
iron oxide to ferrous iron oxide. Yeah, I choose that one, acids do that..

On 5/31/2016 11:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on
using vinegar rather than electrolysis.

Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the
other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete.
It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well
and quickly.

I tried the same on a cast iron machinists table I got recently. it had
a coat of rust and would not work for welding (ground). put some paper
towels on and poured the vinegar on, the rust came off and now my ohm
meter shows excellent conduction. Before the meter would not move, and
sanding the rust was not working... so I'm really happy about this.
Cheap, stinks, easily neutraulized with water, just oil after.

You do have to clean the parts first, the vinegar won't cut through oil
and grease.

I'm going to add that the slotted screws that I could not break loose
even after spraying with blaster, came loose with a long soak in the
vinegar.

So that's really great also..

So go fix an old tool and enjoy it.

--
Jeff

On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 21:04:39 -0400
woodchucker wrote:

I'm going to add that the slotted screws that I could not break loose
even after spraying with blaster, came loose with a long soak in the
vinegar.

found this to be true with just water too

but now since reading this i will try vinegar next time


vinegar also works well on plumbing fixtures with hardwater deposits