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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on
using vinegar rather than electrolysis. Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. I tried the same on a cast iron machinists table I got recently. it had a coat of rust and would not work for welding (ground). put some paper towels on and poured the vinegar on, the rust came off and now my ohm meter shows excellent conduction. Before the meter would not move, and sanding the rust was not working... so I'm really happy about this. Cheap, stinks, easily neutraulized with water, just oil after. You do have to clean the parts first, the vinegar won't cut through oil and grease. -- Jeff |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on using vinegar rather than electrolysis. Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. I tried the same on a cast iron machinists table I got recently. it had a coat of rust and would not work for welding (ground). put some paper towels on and poured the vinegar on, the rust came off and now my ohm meter shows excellent conduction. Before the meter would not move, and sanding the rust was not working... so I'm really happy about this. Cheap, stinks, easily neutraulized with water, just oil after. You do have to clean the parts first, the vinegar won't cut through oil and grease. Good to know! I have also found, by accident, hat most any Titebond type PVA wood glue will remove rust also. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on using vinegar rather than electrolysis. Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. I just used it last week to do my every 6 month drain maintenance on all the drains in the house (with baking soda); to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker, and freshen up the dishwasher; to kill some weeds growing up through the decomposed granite (in lieu of RoundUp). And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#4
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 5/31/2016 11:07 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote: I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on using vinegar rather than electrolysis. Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. I just used it last week to do my every 6 month drain maintenance on all the drains in the house (with baking soda); to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker, and freshen up the dishwasher; to kill some weeds growing up through the decomposed granite (in lieu of RoundUp). And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. After my AC guy told me to use vinegar instead of bleach, cheaper, in the AC drain I also started using it in my sinks. Soak you faucet aerator in vinegar and it works like new again. |
#5
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
Swingman wrote:
On 5/31/2016 10:07 AM, woodchucker wrote: I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on using vinegar rather than electrolysis. Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. I just used it last week to do my every 6 month drain maintenance on all the drains in the house (with baking soda); to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker, and freshen up the dishwasher; to kill some weeds growing up through the decomposed granite (in lieu of RoundUp). And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better. -- GW Ross Abandon the search for Truth; settle for a good fantasy. |
#6
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote: And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better. No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#7
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
Swingman writes:
On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote: Swingman wrote: And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better. No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher. Speak for yourself :-) |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 5/31/2016 1:55 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Swingman writes: On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote: Swingman wrote: And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better. No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher. Speak for yourself :-) I'll cheerfully provide the gumbo just to watch that. lol Now, if you eat boiled crawfish with chopsticks, we could take that on the road... -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#9
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Tue, 31 May 2016 12:20:31 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 5/31/2016 11:43 AM, G. Ross wrote: Swingman wrote: And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better. No buts ... you don't eat gumbo with chopsticks, cher. BBQ butts are pretty good. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 2016-05-31, G. Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote: And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better. Yeah. It's often referred to as "sticky" rice. A distinct species of rice which is very "glutinous" (gummy) and is supposed to cook up like that. If you don't like yer rice, "gummy", then choose a different type of rice. Long white rice and basmati are "fluffy" rices. nb |
#11
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 5/31/2016 2:08 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-05-31, G. Ross wrote: Swingman wrote: And, added a tablespoon in with two cups of raw rice cooked in the rice cooker ... keeps the rice from getting gummy. But, gummy rice stays on your chopsticks better. Yeah. It's often referred to as "sticky" rice. A distinct species of rice which is very "glutinous" (gummy) and is supposed to cook up like that. If you don't like yer rice, "gummy", then choose a different type of rice. Long white rice and basmati are "fluffy" rices. Look at you .. telling a coonass, who can look at any rice field and tell you how much gravy it will take to cover it up, about rice?? Besides, I have a wife who I guarantee will never fail to make _any_ rice gummy ... that's apparently how they teach'em in AR. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#12
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. ...snip... to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker. OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers: I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the pot and let it soak. This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's my concern: I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? |
#13
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. ..snip... to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker. OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers: I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the pot and let it soak. This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's my concern: I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? Dry it after using. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 1:52:04 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. ..snip... to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker. OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers: I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the pot and let it soak. This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's my concern: I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? Dry it after using. While camping? Come on... ;-) |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 06/01/2016 1:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 1:52:04 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote: .... I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? Dry it after using. While camping? Come on... ;-) Camping and worrying about a little rust don't seem to jibe, either... Shoulda' not removed the protective layer, it'd kept it all covered! I'm sure none of the high-temp enamel-repair paints are technically covered for food contact, but I'd think it highly unlikely would be any real issue once were fully cured and baked out a time or two. OTOH, I really doubt there's a serious issue anyway for such occasional use unless it had a lead-soldered seam or somesuch (and even there I'd not expect the exposure to be significant owing simply to it not being an every day occurrence). $0.02, imo, ymmv, etc, etc., etc., ... -- |
#16
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. ..snip... to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker. OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers: I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the pot and let it soak. This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's my concern: I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain, I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I don't know. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. ..snip... to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker. OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers: I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the pot and let it soak. This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's my concern: I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain, I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I don't know. It's similar to this, which I've always known to be enamel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3815107...&ul_noapp=true No, the rust isn't through the bottom. After further inspection this evening it appears that the base of the grounds basket has worn away the enamel on the inside bottom of the pot in some spots from use over the years. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 16:09:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote: On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. ..snip... to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker. OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers: I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the pot and let it soak. This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's my concern: I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain, I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I don't know. It's similar to this, which I've always known to be enamel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3815107...&ul_noapp=true No, the rust isn't through the bottom. After further inspection this evening it appears that the base of the grounds basket has worn away the enamel on the inside bottom of the pot in some spots from use over the years. It's called "vitrified enamel" The enamel is baked to a "glass" finish. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 16:09:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote: On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:07:42 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: Keep a gallon of white vinegar on hand all the time. One of the most useful chemical compounds known to man. ..snip... to clean out the Kuerig coffee maker. OK, speaking of rust, vinegar and coffee makers: I picked up a cowboy percolator at a garage sale last weekend. There was coffee stains in the pot so I used the trick I use for my stainless steel carafe: put some hot water and powered dish washing soap in the pot and let it soak. This worked great for the coffee stains but revealed some rust on the bottom (inside) of the pot. I have not done anything with the rust yet but here's my concern: I wonder if the enamel coating has worn off of the bottom of the pot exposing the metal. Am I going to have an on-going rust problem, so much so that I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rusty pot takes away from the allure of using a cowboy percolator on a propane stove - err, I mean a *campfire*. Yeah, campfire, that's what I meant. ;-) Any thoughts on permanently removing the rust/sealing the surface in a food-safe manner? If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain, I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I don't know. It's similar to this, which I've always known to be enamel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3815107...&ul_noapp=true No, the rust isn't through the bottom. After further inspection this evening it appears that the base of the grounds basket has worn away the enamel on the inside bottom of the pot in some spots from use over the years. Sorry, I meant if the rust is through the porcelain/enamelware. You would know because there would definitely be an edge where you can catch your fingernail on it, or your skin would feel the edge. Had a pan that did that, and OUCH, I felt it in my mouth a piece or two, very tiny. In my case I tossed the pan lest anyone at home would use it. So if you use it, keep a watchful eye for future deterioration. And Clare was right on the money. |
#20
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Tue, 31 May 2016 11:07:06 -0400
woodchucker wrote: complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. main ingredient is water in vinegar water removes rust well too once oils and grease are removed maybe the acids in vinegar increases the reaction time or it may make the water penetrate better might be improved ion exchange over just plain water hmmmm |
#21
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote: It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not as much today. |
#22
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
Markem writes:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet wrote: It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not as much today. Acetic acid has a number of uses, including as precursor to PVA (which is why PVA glues have a vinegar odor) and a component in Acetylsalicyclic acid (ASA), AKA Aspirin. Vinegar is very dilute Acetic acid. |
#23
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
Scott Lurndal wrote:
Markem writes: On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet wrote: It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not as much today. Acetic acid has a number of uses, including as precursor to PVA (which is why PVA glues have a vinegar odor) and a component in Acetylsalicyclic acid (ASA), AKA Aspirin. Vinegar is very dilute Acetic acid. Plus other stuff depending upon from what it was made. |
#24
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
Markem wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet wrote: It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not as much today. I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic. |
#25
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Tue, 31 May 2016 17:47:27 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote: Markem wrote: On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet wrote: It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not as much today. I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid 3 to 9 percent of vinegar is acetic acid, more diluted than a stop bath but the same acid. |
#26
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
Markem wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 17:47:27 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote: Markem wrote: On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet wrote: It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not as much today. I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid 3 to 9 percent of vinegar is acetic acid, Plus the other stuff. more diluted than a stop bath Glacial acetic acid is generally 28% acid. I never measured but probably used about 1 ounce per 32 ounces of water which would be around 1% or less. |
#27
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 4:47:41 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
Markem wrote: On Tue, 31 May 2016 09:52:21 -0700, Electric Comet It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. Vinegar is also a chemical used is photo developing. But probably not as much today. I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic. He probably meant "vinegar" in a generic sense, rather than household vinegar, per se. Most medical "film" processing is all digital, today..... X-rays, CTs, MRIs, etc. .... Probably similarly with regular photography. Digital makes images more clear and sharp, as opposed to old style X-ray, etal, imaging and processing. Zeroing in on the mass of a patient or area to be imaged, via computerized "measuring", is much more efficient and exacting, than a tech's manual measuring & positioning, etc. Digital facilitates a real helpful advantage, since one can send images across the world in an instant, vs hand carrying sheets of negatives from office to office. Soon after we retired, our "old style" (sheet film) liquid Developer & Fixer (vinegar) X-ray processing became obsolete. I'm not sure if film companies even make available the hardcopy film, for those obsolete processors/processing, anymore. Sonny |
#28
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 31 May 2016 11:07:06 -0400 woodchucker wrote: complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. main ingredient is water in vinegar water removes rust well too once oils and grease are removed maybe the acids in vinegar increases the reaction time or it may make the water penetrate better might be improved ion exchange over just plain water hmmmm Or maybe - JUST MAYBE - it (the acid in the vinegar) is reducing the ferric iron oxide to ferrous iron oxide. Yeah, I choose that one, acids do that.. |
#29
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On 5/31/2016 11:07 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I watch some u tube videos. Mr Pete (metal working) had a nice tip on using vinegar rather than electrolysis. Well, it worked great. I picked up a miter cutting blade for $5 the other day. It's a big cast iron piece and I'll show pics when complete. It was all rusty and grimmy. The vinegar removed the rust really well and quickly. I tried the same on a cast iron machinists table I got recently. it had a coat of rust and would not work for welding (ground). put some paper towels on and poured the vinegar on, the rust came off and now my ohm meter shows excellent conduction. Before the meter would not move, and sanding the rust was not working... so I'm really happy about this. Cheap, stinks, easily neutraulized with water, just oil after. You do have to clean the parts first, the vinegar won't cut through oil and grease. I'm going to add that the slotted screws that I could not break loose even after spraying with blaster, came loose with a long soak in the vinegar. So that's really great also.. So go fix an old tool and enjoy it. -- Jeff |
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OT On/Topic... removing rust the easy way.
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 21:04:39 -0400
woodchucker wrote: I'm going to add that the slotted screws that I could not break loose even after spraying with blaster, came loose with a long soak in the vinegar. found this to be true with just water too but now since reading this i will try vinegar next time vinegar also works well on plumbing fixtures with hardwater deposits |
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