On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 12:02:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/7/2016 10:44 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 09:41:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

Wife wants white, white.
They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have you
noticed that?

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.

If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even poplar
is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.

I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the soft
maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that used for
windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at
less than gold prices...

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or
that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?



Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The
wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to close up
as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I
built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and
while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the
end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile. Hit
me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron.
That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just
saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!

On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 19:57:51 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 4/7/2016 6:18 PM, notbob wrote:

Kickback pawls are probably what I thought to be the "guard thingies"
I saw on that ancient woodshop safety film.

Rarely have used a TS guard since I got rid of my old overhead system,
but never fail to use BOTH a push block, and a splitter.

The splitter/riving knife is the single most important device for
preventing kickback on a through cut there is.

In the thousands of shop photos, it would be rare to see a glimpse of my
table saw without some type of splitter ... this is one I made out of
the old Delta guard that came with the saw ... not quite as effective as
a riving knife, but a whole lot better than no splitter:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...67454187233 8

Swingman, that looks similar to something I was considering making. Is
that mounted to the table or insert?

I like your extended length over the table. Am I safe to assume that
it is a fixed height?

For the ff's, is there any preference for hard or soft maple. Keep in
mind I will be painting the whole enchilada.

A friend and I recently built a Roubo bench. The instructions called for soft maple, but we opted for hard maple for the top. Huge mistake! ...

The hard maple was far harder to machine, both with the table saw and particularly the router. Stick with soft maple and save yourself some grief.

John McCoy wrote in
:

*snip*

Push sticks, feather boards, and outfeed tables or rollers to
keep the board from lifting off the table are also good ideas.
*snip*

John

Speaking of push sticks, avoid making the Birdsmouth style. That's a notch
cut out of the end of a piece of wood. Sometimes plastic molded ones are
sold as "push sticks" or "getting started" tools, but those should be
avoided. They're dangerous. They put pressure on the very end of the
board, which encourages it to lift.

A "shoe" style or other form will be much better. They keep pressure along
the entire board so it's not likely to lift.

Puckdropper

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

John McCoy wrote in
:

*snip*

Push sticks, feather boards, and outfeed tables or rollers to
keep the board from lifting off the table are also good ideas.
*snip*

John

Speaking of push sticks, avoid making the Birdsmouth style. That's a notch
cut out of the end of a piece of wood. Sometimes plastic molded ones are
sold as "push sticks" or "getting started" tools, but those should be
avoided. They're dangerous. They put pressure on the very end of the
board, which encourages it to lift.

A "shoe" style or other form will be much better. They keep pressure along
the entire board so it's not likely to lift.

Puckdropper

The utility of the birds mouth style is the last few inches of cut,
where they keep your hand well separated from the blade. At that point
if the board lifts it's not because you put a little pressure on the
end.

At least if you subscribe to the "never put your hand above the blade"
philosophy, which I do and some don't.

"dadiOH" wrote in :

Was your mahogany about 14' long?

No, 7', which is a bit of an awkward size.

OTOH 14' would have been a bit of a problem too, because my
truck has an 8' bed. I can carry 12' with the tailgate down
and no need for a flag/light, but 14' might get a trooper's
attention.

John

John McCoy wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in
:

Was your mahogany about 14' long?

No, 7', which is a bit of an awkward size.

OTOH 14' would have been a bit of a problem too, because my
truck has an 8' bed. I can carry 12' with the tailgate down
and no need for a flag/light, but 14' might get a trooper's
attention.

All that I got was 14' or a tad more. They offered to cut them to 7' but I
declined as I needed some longer than that, prefer to do my own cutting.

What I got was quite nice...6"+ to 12", relatively flat, generally one edge
straight enough for ripping. Thick too; I can get 7/8 out of all of it,
frequently 15/16, sometimes 1". Also, quite pretty and almost no bad spots.

OFWW wrote in
:

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

I have seen, altho not made one myself, splitters that are
just a thin piece of wood sticking out of a zero-clearance
insert. The key points are the splitter should be just a
tad thinner than the blade, and aligned perfectly behind
the blade.

Of course, you also want it strong enough that, if the kerf
closes on it, it doesn't just snap off.

John

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:_rOdnZcbyJO1nprKnZ2dnUU7-
:

Correct but most guards have a splitter of some sort.

Maybe not so much, now that riving knives are becoming popular.

I will never forget the dufuss on one of the DIY channels, IIRC Brad
Stagg on the Ultimate Workshop showing how to cut a dado, WITH THE GUARD
IN PLACE. The look on his face when the wood hit the splitter was
priceless as was watching him get out of that situation with out mishap.

I have to admit having done almost the same thing, wanting to
quickly put a 1/8 groove in a piece and hitting the splitter.
I'd like to think that if I had changed the blade (which of
course I didn't for the 1/8 groove) I would have remembered not
to put the splitter back on.

John

On 4/7/2016 10:02 PM, OFWW wrote:

Swingman, that looks similar to something I was considering making. Is
that mounted to the table or insert?

The splitter is attached to the blade guard mount common on a Unisaw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...0 35513131010

Made from an old Delta blade guard part, so, unlike a riving knife, it
does not move up and down with the blade (but it does tilt).

It has proven very difficult to adapt older table saws with a riving
knife. There have been many attempts, most IME are not worth the money,
and are kludgy and fussy.

Plus, the one's I've seen in action fail the most important attribute
with regard to any "add on" to a table saw:

~ It must be so convenient, intuitive and easy to use that you never
fail to use it. ~

I'm contemplating the purchase of a SawStop, and the number one feature
that attracts me, besides the safety factor, is the built-in riving
knife. Basically, I will never buy another table saw for shop use that
does not incorporate a riving knife.

I like your extended length over the table. Am I safe to assume that
it is a fixed height?

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...7 61480695234

SCROLL RIGHT for three photos.

My own design and build. Attaches to the back of the table saw table
(with a wide French cleat), and has two folding legs, with adjustable
feet (not shown).

You can throw one together in a morning in the shop.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 21:13:36 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

"dadiOH" wrote in :

Which can be horrendous. I recently bought 200 ft+ of mahogany at
$5.25/brd.ft. Total cost was about $1230 + $212 freight from NC to
central Florida.

Hmmm, I just got 200bf from NC down to the pointy end of Fla,
and the shipping was free. 100bf of some kind of mahogany
(probably khaya or something African) and 100bf of poplar
for about $650 total.

Of course, the only reason it was shipped free was I drove
up there in the pickup truck...my employer wanted me up there
and they pay for me to drive, and don't care if I use the
car or the truck.

I played a similar gambit about 30 years go, except I rented a truck
for a business trip. I scored up 250' of Hard Maple 2x10s (complete
with tap holes) and 1000' of cedar for a fence.

On Fri, 8 Apr 2016 03:15:17 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

John McCoy wrote in
:

*snip*

Push sticks, feather boards, and outfeed tables or rollers to
keep the board from lifting off the table are also good ideas.
*snip*

John

Speaking of push sticks, avoid making the Birdsmouth style. That's a notch
cut out of the end of a piece of wood. Sometimes plastic molded ones are
sold as "push sticks" or "getting started" tools, but those should be
avoided. They're dangerous. They put pressure on the very end of the
board, which encourages it to lift.

A "shoe" style or other form will be much better. They keep pressure along
the entire board so it's not likely to lift.

Puckdropper

The utility of the birds mouth style is the last few inches of cut,
where they keep your hand well separated from the blade. At that point
if the board lifts it's not because you put a little pressure on the
end.

At least if you subscribe to the "never put your hand above the blade"
philosophy, which I do and some don't.

+1

I never move my hand beyond the blade while it's spinning.

On Fri, 8 Apr 2016 13:56:07 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

OFWW wrote in
:

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

I have seen, altho not made one myself, splitters that are
just a thin piece of wood sticking out of a zero-clearance
insert. The key points are the splitter should be just a
tad thinner than the blade, and aligned perfectly behind
the blade.

Microjig makes these. I used them for a while but bought the knife
for my Unisaur.

Of course, you also want it strong enough that, if the kerf
closes on it, it doesn't just snap off.

If it does, it'll still old the kerf open.

On 4/7/2016 9:55 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 12:02:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/7/2016 10:44 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 09:41:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

Wife wants white, white.
They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have you
noticed that?

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.

If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even poplar
is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.

I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the soft
maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that used for
windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at
less than gold prices...

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or
that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?



Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The
wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to close up
as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I
built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and
while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the
end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile. Hit
me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron.
That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just
saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!


This splitter works pretty good. They offer one with a metal core and
one that is all plastic. Get the metal core one. I used on for years.

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/

On 4/8/2016 2:38 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/7/2016 9:55 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 12:02:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/7/2016 10:44 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 09:41:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

Wife wants white, white.
They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have
you
noticed that?

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.

If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even
poplar
is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.

I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the
soft
maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that
used for
windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at
less than gold prices...

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or
that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?



Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The
wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to close up
as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I
built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and
while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the
end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile. Hit
me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron.
That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just
saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!


This splitter works pretty good. They offer one with a metal core and
one that is all plastic. Get the metal core one. I used on for years.

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/


I will say that most splitters do not work if you are not making a
through cut. A riving knife typically raises and lowers with the blade
so it usally never has to be removed unless you are cutting groves or
dado's.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 4/8/2016 2:38 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/7/2016 9:55 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 12:02:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/7/2016 10:44 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 09:41:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

Wife wants white, white.
They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have
you
noticed that?

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.

If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even
poplar
is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.

I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the
soft
maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that
used for
windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at
less than gold prices...

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or
that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?



Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The
wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to close up
as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I
built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and
while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the
end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile. Hit
me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron.
That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just
saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!


This splitter works pretty good. They offer one with a metal core and
one that is all plastic. Get the metal core one. I used on for years.

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/


through cut. A riving knife typically raises and lowers with the blade
so it usally never has to be removed unless you are cutting groves or
dado's.

A question about that. I don't have a saw with a riving knife. The ads I
have seen
for them suggest that since the knife is set a little lower than the blade
and moves with it,
that it doesn't even have to be removed for dados. Which is correct?
John

On 4/8/2016 5:43 PM, John S wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 4/8/2016 2:38 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/7/2016 9:55 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 12:02:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/7/2016 10:44 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 09:41:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

Wife wants white, white.
They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have
you
noticed that?

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.

If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even
poplar
is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.

I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the
soft
maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that
used for
windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at
less than gold prices...

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or
that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?



Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The
wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to
close up
as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I
built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and
while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the
end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile.
Hit
me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron.
That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just
saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!


This splitter works pretty good. They offer one with a metal core and
one that is all plastic. Get the metal core one. I used on for years.

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/


through cut. A riving knife typically raises and lowers with the
blade so it usally never has to be removed unless you are cutting
groves or dado's.

A question about that. I don't have a saw with a riving knife. The ads
I have seen
for them suggest that since the knife is set a little lower than the
blade and moves with it,

That is correct.




that it doesn't even have to be removed for dados. Which is correct?
John

No, that is not correct, assuming you make dado's the traditional way.
For the most part most TS's have 10" blades. Most dado sets are either
6" or 8". The riving knife would stand either 1" or 2" taller than the
dado blades.

That said, most modern saws that have riving knives are set for very
easy removal and replacement. I personally own a SawStop ICS. It is
very easy to remove the riving knife, pull the lever up and remove the
knife, replace the knife and push the lever down. AAMOf it is often
easier to change blades with the riving blade removed. It is a 2~3
second operation removing and or replacing the riving knife when
changing blades.