On 4/7/2016 9:55 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 12:02:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/7/2016 10:44 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 09:41:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

Wife wants white, white.
They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have you
noticed that?

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.

If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even poplar
is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.

I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the soft
maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that used for
windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at
less than gold prices...

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or
that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?



Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The
wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to close up
as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I
built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and
while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the
end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile. Hit
me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron.
That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just
saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!


This splitter works pretty good. They offer one with a metal core and
one that is all plastic. Get the metal core one. I used on for years.

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/