On 4/8/2016 5:43 PM, John S wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 4/8/2016 2:38 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/7/2016 9:55 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 12:02:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/7/2016 10:44 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 09:41:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

Wife wants white, white.
They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have
you
noticed that?

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.

If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even
poplar
is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.

I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the
soft
maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that
used for
windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at
less than gold prices...

Swingman mentioned that too. Do you mean reaction to other woods, or
that some soft maple itself is reactionary, and what does that mean?



Reactionary tends to warp or bow "immediately" after it is cut. The
wood will often widen while being cut or the kerf will begin to
close up
as the cut is being made.

Swingman and I worked on a kitchen/bathroom remodel 5 years ago and I
built a boat load of drawers for the bathrooms. We used hard maple and
while ripping a piece to width it closed back up on the blade near the
end of the cut and threw the keeper side back at me like a missile.
Hit
me just above the belt and thank goodness I was also wearing an apron.
That was not pleasant. Fortunately only a large bruise.

A great reason to have a splitter on oru TS.

Whoa BABY! I'll make sure mine is on when I cut. You may have just
saved a life, thank you.

I've been thinking about making a splitter to mount on the insert
itself. Guess I'll be looking hard for one know.

Thanks!


This splitter works pretty good. They offer one with a metal core and
one that is all plastic. Get the metal core one. I used on for years.

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/


through cut. A riving knife typically raises and lowers with the
blade so it usally never has to be removed unless you are cutting
groves or dado's.

A question about that. I don't have a saw with a riving knife. The ads
I have seen
for them suggest that since the knife is set a little lower than the
blade and moves with it,

That is correct.




that it doesn't even have to be removed for dados. Which is correct?
John

No, that is not correct, assuming you make dado's the traditional way.
For the most part most TS's have 10" blades. Most dado sets are either
6" or 8". The riving knife would stand either 1" or 2" taller than the
dado blades.

That said, most modern saws that have riving knives are set for very
easy removal and replacement. I personally own a SawStop ICS. It is
very easy to remove the riving knife, pull the lever up and remove the
knife, replace the knife and push the lever down. AAMOf it is often
easier to change blades with the riving blade removed. It is a 2~3
second operation removing and or replacing the riving knife when
changing blades.