Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--

On 01/13/2016 4:11 PM, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

Oh, intended to attach the link...

http://www.grizzly.com/products/T10010

The "Specifications" sheet has no data on runout or such, of course. It
also notes (as we knew) it is manufactured in China albeit the
description page touts that it was "designed in Germany" -- yeah, right!
The Tormek model is, of course, Swedish.

--

On 1/13/2016 4:11 PM, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--

I'll sell you my Tormek. Very very little use and with several accessories.

On 01/13/2016 4:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2016 4:11 PM, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--

I'll sell you my Tormek. Very very little use and with several accessories.

Which model, which accessories? What are you using instead, out of
curiosity?

--

On 1/13/2016 5:15 PM, dpb wrote:
On 01/13/2016 4:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2016 4:11 PM, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--

I'll sell you my Tormek. Very very little use and with several
accessories.

Which model, which accessories? What are you using instead, out of
curiosity?

--

Super Grind 2000

I can sharpen Power Planer Knives/Blades, Chisels, Scissors, Large and
Small knives, Hatchet, Chisel/Gouges for the lathe. Plus it has the
regular leather wheel and profile leather wheel, grading stone, angle
gauge for chisels and plane irons and a cloth cover.




I used to think I was going to sharpen my lathe tools on the Tormek so I
have those. Turns out I did not have the patience to learn to use the
regular chisels and seldom used the lathe. Then I got a set of the
carbide tipped chisels and I use the lathe much much more. Those
chisels have almost no learning curve.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

On 1/13/2016 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2016 5:15 PM, dpb wrote:
On 01/13/2016 4:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2016 4:11 PM, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--

I'll sell you my Tormek. Very very little use and with several
accessories.

Which model, which accessories? What are you using instead, out of
curiosity?

--

Super Grind 2000

I can sharpen Power Planer Knives/Blades, Chisels, Scissors, Large and
Small knives, Hatchet, Chisel/Gouges for the lathe. Plus it has the
regular leather wheel and profile leather wheel, grading stone, angle
gauge for chisels and plane irons and a cloth cover.




I used to think I was going to sharpen my lathe tools on the Tormek so I
have those. Turns out I did not have the patience to learn to use the
regular chisels and seldom used the lathe. Then I got a set of the
carbide tipped chisels and I use the lathe much much more. Those
chisels have almost no learning curve.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/



Oh and the tool for restoring the surface to flat should that happen
when sharpening lathe tools.

If you are seriously interested I can give you the part numbers of the
accessories.

On 1/13/2016 5:15 PM, dpb wrote:
On 01/13/2016 4:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2016 4:11 PM, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--

I'll sell you my Tormek. Very very little use and with several
accessories.

Which model, which accessories? What are you using instead, out of
curiosity?

--


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:Zp6dndI7EaH3QgvLnZ2dnUU7-N-
:



I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.


A HF 1x30 or better belt sander and some good sanding belts will be very
useful. I haven't used the WorkSharp knife sharpener, but it looked like
it was basically a belt sander set up.

The WorkSharp is great for chisels and plane blades, while the belt sander
handles turning tools and my pocket knife with ease.

Puckdropper

On 1/13/2016 9:02 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:Zp6dndI7EaH3QgvLnZ2dnUU7-N-
:



I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.


A HF 1x30 or better belt sander and some good sanding belts will be very
useful. I haven't used the WorkSharp knife sharpener, but it looked like
it was basically a belt sander set up.

Yes with a few added features. It will also sharpen scissors, hatchet,
ax etc., and or lawn mower blades with out removing the blade

Either way I received both machines as gifts for Christmas.

On 01/13/2016 9:02 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
....

A HF 1x30 or better belt sander and some good sanding belts will be very
useful. I haven't used the WorkSharp knife sharpener, but it looked like
it was basically a belt sander set up.
....

It's so out-of-balance here it's barely useful for sanding, what more
sharpening. I've trued it up some but it needs more attention than I've
time to give if it's ever going to run even close to true...and the belt
speed is pretty fast imo for sharpening. Rough out, maybe...

--

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS 3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums. The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember, you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX edges.. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen, which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper) because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

wrote:
On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.


Actually......I bought the regular version of the WS knife sharpener for
Bryan. He likes it and sharpened Kim's Chicago knives with it. He gave me
the KO version for Christmas. I finally used it on my pocket knife and
one of Kim's Chicago knives. I adhered to the suggestions to not force it
and to move the blade at a certain speed. And chose lower speeds for the
belt. With the Chicago knife I handled the it like a loaded gun after
feeling the edge.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for the
first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember, you
knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at a
certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt genre
is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing trying
to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper) because
they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little machine
actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you think of
it when you get to grinding with it.


Actually I did start with the good but knew this would be aggressive so I
did follow the instructions concerning feed rate, pressure, and belt speed.
I very happy with the tool.



Robert

On 1/15/2016 3:52 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken
Onion knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools
on the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to
shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I
have seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of
those systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp
3000 several times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas
soft and a strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free
hand and they will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will
readily admit the WS 3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time
with less effort than I can get.

I found the WS3000 on Zoro. Most every one sells the 3000 for $200.
They had it for sale at around $235 but had a 30% off coupon with free
shipping. So I got if for around $165. I figured the price was not
going to get any better than that. I think I bought it on Monday after
Thanksgiving.

Anyway we gave Bryan a WS knife sharpener for his birthday and he was
pretty happy with it. Hanna, his GF remarked that his knives were much
better to use. ;~) He also sharpened Kim's Chicago knives which we
have had for about 30~35 years.

Anyway I was impressed and he gave me the KO version for Christmas.
I followed the instructions, starting with the medium belt, using a slow
grind speed, feeding 1" per second, and not pressing down on the knife.
When done with that knife I felt the edge and was compelled to handle
the knife like a loaded gun... ;~) And no new curves in the knife edge!

I will say that I was a little surprised that neither model reverses the
belt rotation direction for sharpening the other side of the edge.


A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts.
I KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos,
but just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great
guys to buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant
videos they always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

I'll check that out.




As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on
Bladeforums. The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report
shaving edges for the first time in the history of their knife
ownership. Just remember, you knives won't be ground like a chisel
on the WS, which are ground at a certain angle to your satisfaction.

Precicely and probably why it sharpens so much faster, it does not have
to reestablish a particular flat angle surface.



The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back
you push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of
angle you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I
prefer a convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two
specialty blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening,
they hold an edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I
freehand sharpen, which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the
whole slack belt genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff.

OOPS! Too late. ;~) No problem though.....


I
have seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to
nothing trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining
the temper) because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive
that little machine actually can actually be.

I was not looking for a visually stunning edge so much as sharp and
faster than my other methods of sharpening.




I will be interested
to see what you think of it when you get to grinding with it.

I'm almost afraid to go too sharp, I had to take Kim to the ER when I
did that 15 years ago using the Tormek. ;~( She did however test on a
tomato and was very very happy.

On 01/13/2016 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:

I sent an e-mail which didn't bounce, Leon...let's at least talk if you
do want to unload it.

-dpb

--

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:Zp6dndI7EaH3QgvLnZ2dnUU7-N-
:



I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.


While I'm thinking about it... The WS3000 does require some maintenance.
I keep a brush next to the other glass disks to clear the metal particles
when I change grits. (I've seen those metal particles start to heat and
glow--gotta clear them!)

I've had to take the machine apart a few times to clear out debris that
was keeping the spindle from turning at the proper speed. If they had
installed a felt pad or something, it'd probably solve that problem. I'd
be willing to admit the generic paper may be compounding the problem, so
if anyone keeps buying genuine WS paper and doesn't have to do this, I'd
like to know.

When you need more of the super fine paper, here it is:
http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_discs.htm#6_0_psa

Puckdropper

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 4:11:08 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--


IF you really want a Tormek and, like me, cannot afford it, you might try building your own. Here is a jib I made that does, essentially, the same thing. The only down side is, you need a mini-lathe to power it. (more details upon request.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...7/SAM_2335.JPG

Deb

On 01/15/2016 10:41 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
....

IF you really want a Tormek and, like me, cannot afford it, you
might try building your own. Here is a jib I made that does,
essentially, the same thing. The only down side is, you need a
mini-lathe to power it.(more details upon request.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...7/SAM_2335.JPG

Clever...unfortunately, I don't have the lathe; never was much of a
turner and didn't move it from TN as there wasn't any place dry when we
came back to the farm until we got the new roof on the old barn other
than a small corner that wasn't room enough for what did bring, even...
Have regretted the decision a few times, however...

--

On 1/15/2016 10:41 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 4:11:08 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:
Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
spread" attachments.

--


IF you really want a Tormek and, like me, cannot afford it, you might try building your own. Here is a jib I made that does, essentially, the same thing. The only down side is, you need a mini-lathe to power it. (more details upon request.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...7/SAM_2335.JPG

Deb


He could afford mine....it is sitting collecting dust.

On 01/15/2016 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
....

He could afford mine....it is sitting collecting dust.

I contacted you yesterday via your e-mail, Leon(*)...was awaiting a
response. Figure this would be better offline...

(*) At least I got no "bounced" return.

--

On 1/15/2016 12:42 PM, dpb wrote:
On 01/15/2016 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
...

He could afford mine....it is sitting collecting dust.

I contacted you yesterday via your e-mail, Leon(*)...was awaiting a
response. Figure this would be better offline...

(*) At least I got no "bounced" return.

--


I did not get it and some of my posts are not showing up. I AM having
internet issues but the technician is suppose to show up this afternoon.

When resounding to my e-mail take "dot" our and insert "."

I am interested in selling the whole set up.

On 1/15/2016 12:51 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2016 12:42 PM, dpb wrote:
On 01/15/2016 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
...

He could afford mine....it is sitting collecting dust.

I contacted you yesterday via your e-mail, Leon(*)...was awaiting a
response. Figure this would be better offline...

(*) At least I got no "bounced" return.

--


I did not get it and some of my posts are not showing up. I AM having
internet issues but the technician is suppose to show up this afternoon.

When resounding to my e-mail take "dot" our and insert "."

I am interested in selling the whole set up.


Jeezzzz When responding, take the "dot" out and insert "." in its place.

On 01/15/2016 12:51 PM, Leon wrote:
....

When resounding to my e-mail take "dot" our and insert "."

Had done...resent anyway.

I am interested in selling the whole set up.

I had presumed that, too....

--

On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS 3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums. The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember, you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen, which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper) because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.

"dpb" wrote in message ...

Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times with
the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the Grizzly
didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a pretty good
deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced spread"
attachments.


So, dpb, here's a pretty thorough and honest account of a hands-on shootout
between a woodworker's Tormek and a Grizzly knock-off over an extended
period of time, during which it's interesting to see how his opinion
evolved. Check it out and see what you think.

http://www.joewoodworker.com/tormek.htm

As for myself, I have a Tormek that's about fifteen years old that I bought
used in 2005. In my opinion It's one of the best pieces of gear in my shop.

Tom

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

On 01/17/2016 9:39 PM, tdacon wrote:
....

So, dpb, here's a pretty thorough and honest account of a hands-on
shootout between a woodworker's Tormek and a Grizzly knock-off over an
extended period of time, during which it's interesting to see how his
opinion evolved. Check it out and see what you think.

http://www.joewoodworker.com/tormek.htm

As for myself, I have a Tormek that's about fifteen years old that I
bought used in 2005. In my opinion It's one of the best pieces of gear
in my shop.

Actually, it's the Jet rather than Grizzly but that's a "no-never mind"
in many ways.

Thanks, appreciate the link; it basically confirmed for at least the Jet
what I figure is more than likely true for the Grizzly (and other clones
as well) -- there's a reason the Tormek is as expensive as it is (altho
I still think it's overpriced for what it is).

Some of the amenities Jet included would be good enhancements for
Tormek; no idea whether they've done so but I do know there are at least
three or for incarnations since that article.

--

On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 22:29:50 -0600, Leon wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

Sure is, and I told that to my wife so the sharpener comes out of
household expense, not my tools money.

"dpb" wrote in message ...

On 01/17/2016 9:39 PM, tdacon wrote:
....

Actually, it's the Jet rather than Grizzly but that's a "no-never mind"
in many ways.

Oops.

Tom

On 1/18/2016 11:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 22:29:50 -0600, Leon wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

Sure is, and I told that to my wife so the sharpener comes out of
household expense, not my tools money.


:~). Sounds good however I may sharpen the lawn mower blade with it
too, on the mower. I did however use a file the last time I sharpened
the mower blade and that went amazingly quick.

On 01/18/2016 1:14 PM, tdacon wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 01/17/2016 9:39 PM, tdacon wrote:
...

Actually, it's the Jet rather than Grizzly but that's a "no-never
mind" in many ways.

Oops.
....

As said, still appreciate it -- it's basically likely what the Grizzly
review would've said, too, altho perhaps with some slightly different warts.

Looks like moot point as guess Leon and I have come to an agreement
offline...

--

On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 13:49:37 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2016 11:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 22:29:50 -0600, Leon wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

Sure is, and I told that to my wife so the sharpener comes out of
household expense, not my tools money.


:~). Sounds good however I may sharpen the lawn mower blade with it
too, on the mower. I did however use a file the last time I sharpened
the mower blade and that went amazingly quick.

I bought one of the grinder kits from HD for mine, but in Calif we
have a lot of rocks in some area's and my reel was hammered pretty
bad. I got the blade done ok, and quit there. I prefer the reel type
since it will cut damp grass and for several other reasons.

On 1/18/2016 6:06 PM, OFWW wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 13:49:37 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2016 11:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 22:29:50 -0600, Leon wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

Sure is, and I told that to my wife so the sharpener comes out of
household expense, not my tools money.


:~). Sounds good however I may sharpen the lawn mower blade with it
too, on the mower. I did however use a file the last time I sharpened
the mower blade and that went amazingly quick.

I bought one of the grinder kits from HD for mine, but in Calif we
have a lot of rocks in some area's and my reel was hammered pretty
bad. I got the blade done ok, and quit there. I prefer the reel type
since it will cut damp grass and for several other reasons.



I had been using my bench top grinder in the past. I found that the
file was easier and not much more time consuming. Strang enough the
blade is 25 years old and in pretty good shape.

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 13:49:37 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2016 11:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 22:29:50 -0600, Leon wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

Sure is, and I told that to my wife so the sharpener comes out of
household expense, not my tools money.


:~). Sounds good however I may sharpen the lawn mower blade with it
too, on the mower. I did however use a file the last time I sharpened
the mower blade and that went amazingly quick.

I bought one of the grinder kits from HD for mine, but in Calif we
have a lot of rocks in some area's and my reel was hammered pretty
bad. I got the blade done ok, and quit there. I prefer the reel type
since it will cut damp grass and for several other reasons.

One of my regrets is that I didn't grab my Dad's Simplicity tractor when
he died. He had the reel and sickle bar mowers for it, as well as the
brush saw, plow, and a few other accessories. That was a nice piece of
equipment that I didn't really appreciate until it was gone.

On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 20:34:37 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 13:49:37 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2016 11:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 22:29:50 -0600, Leon wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

Sure is, and I told that to my wife so the sharpener comes out of
household expense, not my tools money.


:~). Sounds good however I may sharpen the lawn mower blade with it
too, on the mower. I did however use a file the last time I sharpened
the mower blade and that went amazingly quick.

I bought one of the grinder kits from HD for mine, but in Calif we
have a lot of rocks in some area's and my reel was hammered pretty
bad. I got the blade done ok, and quit there. I prefer the reel type
since it will cut damp grass and for several other reasons.

One of my regrets is that I didn't grab my Dad's Simplicity tractor when
he died. He had the reel and sickle bar mowers for it, as well as the
brush saw, plow, and a few other accessories. That was a nice piece of
equipment that I didn't really appreciate until it was gone.

OUCH! But I'd bet you had good reason at the time.

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 20:34:37 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 13:49:37 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2016 11:46 AM, OFWW wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 22:29:50 -0600, Leon wrote:

OFWW wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:


I am going to use a Worksharp 3000 along with the WorkSharp Ken Onion
knife sharpener.

You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on
the service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.

So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have
seen screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those
systems. Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several
times, but in the end just go back to a Wa****a/Arkansas soft and a
strops when I need a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they
will shave if that is the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS
3000 gets a better edge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.

A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice
those old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that
machine. It can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I
KNOW you are quite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but
just in case you haven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to
buy knives from!)here is a link, as well as the attendant videos they
always stack on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4sGdIE27Y

As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums.
The guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for
the first time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember,
you knives won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at
a certain angle to your satisfaction.

The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX
edges. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you
push the edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle
you select you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a
convex edge on my knives with the exception of one or two specialty
blades. Speaking from my personal experience in sharpening, they hold an
edge better for me and are easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen,
which by its nature creates a convex edge. So the whole slack belt
genre is right in my bailiwick.

Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have
seen too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing
trying to get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper)
because they didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little
machine actually can actually be. I will be interested to see what you
think of it when you get to grinding with it.

Robert

Go to Oregon and get your commission!

Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.

Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.

Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.

Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.

Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.

I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.

The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.

Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.

Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.

Thanks a bunch.


Figure $5 per knife to have them sharpened. Pretty cool, eh?

Sure is, and I told that to my wife so the sharpener comes out of
household expense, not my tools money.


:~). Sounds good however I may sharpen the lawn mower blade with it
too, on the mower. I did however use a file the last time I sharpened
the mower blade and that went amazingly quick.

I bought one of the grinder kits from HD for mine, but in Calif we
have a lot of rocks in some area's and my reel was hammered pretty
bad. I got the blade done ok, and quit there. I prefer the reel type
since it will cut damp grass and for several other reasons.

One of my regrets is that I didn't grab my Dad's Simplicity tractor when
he died. He had the reel and sickle bar mowers for it, as well as the
brush saw, plow, and a few other accessories. That was a nice piece of
equipment that I didn't really appreciate until it was gone.

OUCH! But I'd bet you had good reason at the time.

I was mostly caught up in the vicissitudes of life a thousand miles
away--I really should have rented a truck after the funeral but I didn't
think to do that until I was back home, and by that time my mother had
hired somebody to empty the house for her and . . .