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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
Just saw this in Kinja. It looks fun and very useful. I'm thinking setting it up length-wise, going with the grain like a hand plane, and making some lines or holes for guides. Also, it looks like I could easily screw a fence along one side of the cutter to make rabbets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
Michael wrote in
: Just saw this in Kinja. It looks fun and very useful. I'm thinking setting it up length-wise, going with the grain like a hand plane, and making some lines or holes for guides. Also, it looks like I could easily screw a fence along one side of the cutter to make rabbets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk I suspect if you go with the grain you might not get a very tight hold on the chisel. I also think that's a one-use tool - after you take the chisel out to sharpen it, it's not going to seat tightly again. OTOH, if you have a lot of need for such a thing, you probably would already have rabbet planes, shoulder planes, etc. John |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
"Michael" wrote in message ... Just saw this in Kinja. It looks fun and very useful. I'm thinking setting it up length-wise, going with the grain like a hand plane, and making some lines or holes for guides. Also, it looks like I could easily screw a fence along one side of the cutter to make rabbets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk I agree with John McC as regards the usefulness of the tool. Went on to watch a video following about preparing and sharpening chisels. Found that interesting. I really liked the guy's workshop. Not a power tool in sight. I was surprised to see the array of Stanley planes all placed sole down. (Note the number of Stanley boxes in cabinet and the number of hand braces). Nick. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
"Nick" wrote in
: I really liked the guy's workshop. Not a power tool in sight. I was surprised to see the array of Stanley planes all placed sole down. (Note the number of Stanley boxes in cabinet and the number of hand braces). Nick. Nothing wrong with putting a plane sole down, assuming it's on a wood surface. After all, wood is what the sole is intended to be pushed across. I do make it a habit to set my planes down on edge when I'm using them, because sometimes I'll set them on the table saw or jointer because there's too many bits and pieces on the bench. Definately don't want the blade hitting a cast iron surface! BTW, at least some of those planes aren't Stanley. The #62 is a Lee Valley - it has the "handy grip" on the sides, which Stanley didn't use on that plane but LV does (not, on a plane of that size, that I can see how you'd use them). John |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 11:09:08 AM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:
"Nick" wrote in : I really liked the guy's workshop. Not a power tool in sight. I was surprised to see the array of Stanley planes all placed sole down. (Note the number of Stanley boxes in cabinet and the number of hand braces). Nick. Nothing wrong with putting a plane sole down, assuming it's on a wood surface. After all, wood is what the sole is intended to be pushed across. I do make it a habit to set my planes down on edge when I'm using them, because sometimes I'll set them on the table saw or jointer because there's too many bits and pieces on the bench. Definately don't want the blade hitting a cast iron surface! BTW, at least some of those planes aren't Stanley. The #62 is a Lee Valley - it has the "handy grip" on the sides, which Stanley didn't use on that plane but LV does (not, on a plane of that size, that I can see how you'd use them). John Setting the plane on the side keeps your much-sought perfect depth of cut for us weekenders. Paul Sellers is constantly micro-adjusting his planes, so it probably makes no difference to him. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
Michael wrote in
: Setting the plane on the side keeps your much-sought perfect depth of cut for us weekenders. Paul Sellers is constantly micro-adjusting his planes, so it probably makes no difference to him. You know, I haven't noticed much of a difference with sharpness after carefully setting my planes down on their sole. I usually put them down on a piece of hardboard, and while it might decrease the sharpness slightly so does using it. I usually don't spend much time planing, so sharpening once every 3-6 months doesn't bother me. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:13:47 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Michael wrote in : Setting the plane on the side keeps your much-sought perfect depth of cut for us weekenders. Paul Sellers is constantly micro-adjusting his planes, so it probably makes no difference to him. You know, I haven't noticed much of a difference with sharpness after carefully setting my planes down on their sole. I usually put them down on a piece of hardboard, and while it might decrease the sharpness slightly so does using it. I usually don't spend much time planing, so sharpening once every 3-6 months doesn't bother me. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. I don't see how sharpness would be an issue. As John McCoy says, wood is wood. Depth of cut is probably a non-issue as well, unless the plane is set down hard. But I'll continue to lay the plane on its side. What the heck. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
On 9/30/2015 12:30 PM, Michael wrote:
On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 11:09:08 AM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote: "Nick" wrote in : I really liked the guy's workshop. Not a power tool in sight. I was surprised to see the array of Stanley planes all placed sole down. (Note the number of Stanley boxes in cabinet and the number of hand braces). Nick. Nothing wrong with putting a plane sole down, assuming it's on a wood surface. After all, wood is what the sole is intended to be pushed across. I do make it a habit to set my planes down on edge when I'm using them, because sometimes I'll set them on the table saw or jointer because there's too many bits and pieces on the bench. Definately don't want the blade hitting a cast iron surface! BTW, at least some of those planes aren't Stanley. The #62 is a Lee Valley - it has the "handy grip" on the sides, which Stanley didn't use on that plane but LV does (not, on a plane of that size, that I can see how you'd use them). John Setting the plane on the side keeps your much-sought perfect depth of cut for us weekenders. Paul Sellers is constantly micro-adjusting his planes, so it probably makes no difference to him. Just wondering here but do you think that setting the plane down on its blade, on a wood surface, would affect the depth of cut any more than simply planing wood? |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
Michael wrote in
: I don't see how sharpness would be an issue. As John McCoy says, wood is wood. Depth of cut is probably a non-issue as well, unless the plane is set down hard. But I'll continue to lay the plane on its side. What the heck. It's a good habit to have. Just in case you ever aren't paying attention and set the plane down on something hard. But I do store my planes sole down. Except for the shoulder planes, which insist on falling over if I do. John |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Poor man's router
On 9/30/2015 4:32 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Michael wrote in : I don't see how sharpness would be an issue. As John McCoy says, wood is wood. Depth of cut is probably a non-issue as well, unless the plane is set down hard. But I'll continue to lay the plane on its side. What the heck. It's a good habit to have. Just in case you ever aren't paying attention and set the plane down on something hard. Yes Plan for the unexpected. But I do store my planes sole down. Except for the shoulder planes, which insist on falling over if I do. John Same here |
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