I made a new (router) dado jig this morning. My old one was made in
haste for a bookcase project. It worked fine, especially once I made it
(more easily) adjustable, but it's not long enough for a project I have
in mind.

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood. Some people here suggested cutting the head
off a 1/4-20 bolt, chucking it into a drill, and threading a pair of
nuts onto it as a back stop.

That sounded like a good idea, and I was just about to cut the head off
a bolt when another idea struck me. I threaded the insert onto the knob
itself, all the way to the body of the knob. Then I turned the insert
into the wood by hand with the knob. When the knob touched the wood, I
backed the knob out of the insert.

To my surprise, it really was flush with the wood, but I turned it in
another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway. In retrospect, I could have
eliminated that step by putting a washer (one whose outer diameter was
smaller than the insert) onto the knob threads before putting on the
insert.

It's probably not a better method than the one suggested here if you're
doing a lot of them, but it worked fine.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 9/13/2015 11:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made a new (router) dado jig this morning. My old one was made in
haste for a bookcase project. It worked fine, especially once I made it
(more easily) adjustable, but it's not long enough for a project I have
in mind.

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood. Some people here suggested cutting the head
off a 1/4-20 bolt, chucking it into a drill, and threading a pair of
nuts onto it as a back stop.

That sounded like a good idea, and I was just about to cut the head off
a bolt when another idea struck me. I threaded the insert onto the knob
itself, all the way to the body of the knob. Then I turned the insert
into the wood by hand with the knob. When the knob touched the wood, I
backed the knob out of the insert.

To my surprise, it really was flush with the wood, but I turned it in
another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway. In retrospect, I could have
eliminated that step by putting a washer (one whose outer diameter was
smaller than the insert) onto the knob threads before putting on the
insert.

It's probably not a better method than the one suggested here if you're
doing a lot of them, but it worked fine.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Most of those knobs will crack under extreme pressure. So you are lucky.
I have had too many crack without that pressure.



--
Jeff

On 9/13/2015 10:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood.


To my surprise, it really was flush with
the wood, but I turned it in another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway.

Taking those two statements together makes me wonder if you're
installing them upside down?

Most likely not, but you never know ... so don't take offense.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sun, 13 Sep 2015 11:45:17 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

I made a new (router) dado jig this morning. My old one was made in
haste for a bookcase project. It worked fine, especially once I made it
(more easily) adjustable, but it's not long enough for a project I have
in mind.

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood. Some people here suggested cutting the head
off a 1/4-20 bolt, chucking it into a drill, and threading a pair of
nuts onto it as a back stop.

That sounded like a good idea, and I was just about to cut the head off
a bolt when another idea struck me. I threaded the insert onto the knob
itself, all the way to the body of the knob. Then I turned the insert
into the wood by hand with the knob. When the knob touched the wood, I
backed the knob out of the insert.

To my surprise, it really was flush with the wood, but I turned it in
another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway. In retrospect, I could have
eliminated that step by putting a washer (one whose outer diameter was
smaller than the insert) onto the knob threads before putting on the
insert.

It's probably not a better method than the one suggested here if you're
doing a lot of them, but it worked fine.

---


... hope I didn't read your post wrong ?

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,180,42334

... is this what you need ?

John T.





--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 9/13/2015 5:17 PM, hubops wrote:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,180,42334

.. is this what you need ?

John T.

The most important component of what I needed was that it be here
*today*. But yes, those would have worked also.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 9/13/2015 4:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 10:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood.


To my surprise, it really was flush with
the wood, but I turned it in another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway.

Taking those two statements together makes me wonder if you're
installing them upside down?

Most likely not, but you never know ... so don't take offense.


I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the "notches"
facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the other way might be
preferable, but this seems to work fine.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 9/13/2015 12:50 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/13/2015 11:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made a new (router) dado jig this morning. My old one was made in
haste for a bookcase project. It worked fine, especially once I made it
(more easily) adjustable, but it's not long enough for a project I have
in mind.

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood. Some people here suggested cutting the head
off a 1/4-20 bolt, chucking it into a drill, and threading a pair of
nuts onto it as a back stop.

That sounded like a good idea, and I was just about to cut the head off
a bolt when another idea struck me. I threaded the insert onto the knob
itself, all the way to the body of the knob. Then I turned the insert
into the wood by hand with the knob. When the knob touched the wood, I
backed the knob out of the insert.

To my surprise, it really was flush with the wood, but I turned it in
another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway. In retrospect, I could have
eliminated that step by putting a washer (one whose outer diameter was
smaller than the insert) onto the knob threads before putting on the
insert.

It's probably not a better method than the one suggested here if you're
doing a lot of them, but it worked fine.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Most of those knobs will crack under extreme pressure. So you are lucky.
I have had too many crack without that pressure.



Perhaps you are just too damn strong?

I don't think I would describe the force I used as "extreme". But I see
your point.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7628183501013/

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 10:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood.


To my surprise, it really was flush with
the wood, but I turned it in another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway.

Taking those two statements together makes me wonder if you're
installing them upside down?

Most likely not, but you never know ... so don't take offense.


I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the "notches"
facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the other way might be
preferable, but this seems to work fine.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Notch up, there is even a drill insertion bit that engages those slots.

On 9/13/2015 4:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the "notches"
facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the other way might be
preferable, but this seems to work fine.

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of the
threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

From a catalog for threaded inserts designed for use in wood:

"For most wood applications including medium-hard and hardwood, the
threaded insert should be installed slot down. The cutting action at the
slotted section allows easier installation and avoids radial stresses
which may otherwise tend to split the wood."

"In soft wood, the threaded insert should be installed slot up. The
threaded insert is then thread forming, similar to a wood screw. The
absence of cutting provides a firm anchor in the relatively soft wood."

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 9/14/2015 7:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the "notches"
facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the other way might be
preferable, but this seems to work fine.

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of the
threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

From a catalog for threaded inserts designed for use in wood:

"For most wood applications including medium-hard and hardwood, the
threaded insert should be installed slot down. The cutting action at the
slotted section allows easier installation and avoids radial stresses
which may otherwise tend to split the wood."

"In soft wood, the threaded insert should be installed slot up. The
threaded insert is then thread forming, similar to a wood screw. The
absence of cutting provides a firm anchor in the relatively soft wood."

Hummmmmmmmmmmm OMG

Do you have a picture of the insert in question? I have some old brass
inserts with the slots. Anyway there are apparently numerous styles of
threaded inserts. I pretty much get the zinc style these days with a
flared top.

Here are my insertion instructions for my brass slotted inserts.
Specifically they want the slots up so that the special threads hold
better.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

On 9/14/2015 8:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the "notches"
facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the other way might be
preferable, but this seems to work fine.

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of the
threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

From a catalog for threaded inserts designed for use in wood:

"For most wood applications including medium-hard and hardwood, the
threaded insert should be installed slot down. The cutting action at the
slotted section allows easier installation and avoids radial stresses
which may otherwise tend to split the wood."

"In soft wood, the threaded insert should be installed slot up. The
threaded insert is then thread forming, similar to a wood screw. The
absence of cutting provides a firm anchor in the relatively soft wood."

Since it was ply, likely birch (it was scrap), maybe I got it right. But
thanks for the tip.

On 9/13/2015 4:17 PM, hubops wrote:
On Sun, 13 Sep 2015 11:45:17 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

I made a new (router) dado jig this morning. My old one was made in
haste for a bookcase project. It worked fine, especially once I made it
(more easily) adjustable, but it's not long enough for a project I have
in mind.

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and star
knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of a time
getting them into the wood. Some people here suggested cutting the head
off a 1/4-20 bolt, chucking it into a drill, and threading a pair of
nuts onto it as a back stop.

That sounded like a good idea, and I was just about to cut the head off
a bolt when another idea struck me. I threaded the insert onto the knob
itself, all the way to the body of the knob. Then I turned the insert
into the wood by hand with the knob. When the knob touched the wood, I
backed the knob out of the insert.

To my surprise, it really was flush with the wood, but I turned it in
another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway. In retrospect, I could have
eliminated that step by putting a washer (one whose outer diameter was
smaller than the insert) onto the knob threads before putting on the
insert.

It's probably not a better method than the one suggested here if you're
doing a lot of them, but it worked fine.

---


... hope I didn't read your post wrong ?

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,180,42334

.. is this what you need ?

John T.

Well for one it shows the slot up as I think it should be, at least with
this particular insert.
Some indicate that their instructions indicate the slot can be down to
help cut into the wood. BUT looking at these inserts the slots are not
near or touching the wood. So apparently there are some inserts where
the slot is at the outer edge of the insert too.

On 9/14/2015 8:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the "notches"
facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the other way might be
preferable, but this seems to work fine.

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of the
threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

From a catalog for threaded inserts designed for use in wood:

"For most wood applications including medium-hard and hardwood, the
threaded insert should be installed slot down. The cutting action at the
slotted section allows easier installation and avoids radial stresses
which may otherwise tend to split the wood."

"In soft wood, the threaded insert should be installed slot up. The
threaded insert is then thread forming, similar to a wood screw. The
absence of cutting provides a firm anchor in the relatively soft wood."


Oh, and the "devil of a time" comment was mostly due to trying to put
the insert in with a slot screwdriver. It was the widest one I had, but
still a tad narrower than it needed to be. It was just wide enough to
grab both slots - a little - but slipped out often. It's also difficult
to get it started plumb that way. My "new method" was much better.

On 9/14/2015 8:53 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/14/2015 8:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the "notches"
facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the other way might be
preferable, but this seems to work fine.

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of the
threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

From a catalog for threaded inserts designed for use in wood:

"For most wood applications including medium-hard and hardwood, the
threaded insert should be installed slot down. The cutting action at the
slotted section allows easier installation and avoids radial stresses
which may otherwise tend to split the wood."

"In soft wood, the threaded insert should be installed slot up. The
threaded insert is then thread forming, similar to a wood screw. The
absence of cutting provides a firm anchor in the relatively soft wood."


Oh, and the "devil of a time" comment was mostly due to trying to put
the insert in with a slot screwdriver. It was the widest one I had, but
still a tad narrower than it needed to be. It was just wide enough to
grab both slots - a little - but slipped out often. It's also difficult
to get it started plumb that way. My "new method" was much better.

As he and I both have pointed out, there are several types of inserts
with the slot. Mine are specifically to be used with the slot up, some
can be used wither way. If yours are intended to to be used either way
using a screw driver might be more problematic. OR you need to get a
decent set of screw drivers. :~)

Some indicate that their instructions indicate the slot can be down to
help cut into the wood. BUT looking at these inserts the slots are not
near or touching the wood. So apparently there are some inserts where
the slot is at the outer edge of the insert too.



I hadn't come across the type that flips over ..
The other most common type - use a hex driver -
- and slightly different size pilot hole for different woods.
John T.


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 9/14/2015 8:53 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Oh, and the "devil of a time" comment was mostly due to trying to put
the insert in with a slot screwdriver. It was the widest one I had,
but still a tad narrower than it needed to be. It was just wide
enough to grab both slots - a little - but slipped out often. It's
also difficult to get it started plumb that way. My "new method" was
much better.

As he and I both have pointed out, there are several types of inserts
with the slot. Mine are specifically to be used with the slot up,
some can be used wither way. If yours are intended to to be used
either way using a screw driver might be more problematic. OR you
need to get a decent set of screw drivers. :~)

The only inserts I've ever seen that go in slot-down are the
press-in style you find in cheap furniture (and in those the
slot is intended to allow the insert body to flex, it's not
for driving).

Like Greg, I found the Hillman brand inserts (the ones stocked
by Home Depot and Lowes) to be undrivable with a screwdriver,
despite that evidently being the manufacturers intention, due
to the slot not being well formed - a screwdriver with a tip
thick enough to fit the slot well is wider than the insert
(also, the metal is weak, due to the slot being so wide, and
likely to break if you exert any force on the slot).

If you can find them, the style with a hex recess are far and
away the best inserts (and, obviously, go in hex-upwards).

John

On 9/14/15 12:36 AM, Leon wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 10:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and
star knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of
a time getting them into the wood.


To my surprise, it really was flush with the wood, but I turned
it in another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway.

Taking those two statements together makes me wonder if you're
installing them upside down?

Most likely not, but you never know ... so don't take offense.


I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the
"notches" facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the
other way might be preferable, but this seems to work fine.

--- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Notch up, there is even a drill insertion bit that engages those
slots.


A drill is about the only way I can get them in straight.
No matter what technique I try to use, when I do it by hand there is
inevitably some angle to them when I'm finished because of having to
stop turning while pushing to reposition the hand. Those suckers
reeeeally want to go in crooked.
A drill is the only way I seem to be able to hold them perfect;y
straight while driving them in.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/14/15 8:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/14/2015 7:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the
"notches" facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the
other way might be preferable, but this seems to work fine.

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of
the threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

From a catalog for threaded inserts designed for use in wood:

"For most wood applications including medium-hard and hardwood,
the threaded insert should be installed slot down. The cutting
action at the slotted section allows easier installation and avoids
radial stresses which may otherwise tend to split the wood."

"In soft wood, the threaded insert should be installed slot up.
The threaded insert is then thread forming, similar to a wood
screw. The absence of cutting provides a firm anchor in the
relatively soft wood."

Hummmmmmmmmmmm OMG

Do you have a picture of the insert in question? I have some old
brass inserts with the slots. Anyway there are apparently numerous
styles of threaded inserts. I pretty much get the zinc style these
days with a flared top.

Here are my insertion instructions for my brass slotted inserts.
Specifically they want the slots up so that the special threads hold
better.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


The answer is in the picture.
Yours doesn't have the threads coming up all the way to the top-- it is
rounded and smooth all the way around.
If you look at the one diagrammed in those instructions, you will see
the the threads come all the way to the top, with the slot dissecting
the threads. That insert style would definitely cut hardwood when being
driven slot-side down.
They are also the ones I always break bits off of at that particular
section when trying to drive them with a flat-head! :-D


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/14/2015 10:50 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/14/15 12:36 AM, Leon wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 10:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

To adjust the dado width, I used threaded (female) inserts and
star knobs. The last time I used those inserts I had a devil of
a time getting them into the wood.


To my surprise, it really was flush with the wood, but I turned
it in another half-turn with a screwdriver anyway.

Taking those two statements together makes me wonder if you're
installing them upside down?

Most likely not, but you never know ... so don't take offense.


I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the
"notches" facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the
other way might be preferable, but this seems to work fine.

--- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Notch up, there is even a drill insertion bit that engages those
slots.


A drill is about the only way I can get them in straight.
No matter what technique I try to use, when I do it by hand there is
inevitably some angle to them when I'm finished because of having to
stop turning while pushing to reposition the hand. Those suckers
reeeeally want to go in crooked.
A drill is the only way I seem to be able to hold them perfect;y
straight while driving them in.


Not to mention I would rather let the drill do the work. ;~)

On 9/14/2015 10:58 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/14/15 8:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/14/2015 7:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/13/2015 4:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've never been clear on which end was up. But yes, I had the
"notches" facing up. I suppose if esthetics was a concern, the
other way might be preferable, but this seems to work fine.

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of
the threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

From a catalog for threaded inserts designed for use in wood:

"For most wood applications including medium-hard and hardwood,
the threaded insert should be installed slot down. The cutting
action at the slotted section allows easier installation and avoids
radial stresses which may otherwise tend to split the wood."

"In soft wood, the threaded insert should be installed slot up.
The threaded insert is then thread forming, similar to a wood
screw. The absence of cutting provides a firm anchor in the
relatively soft wood."

Hummmmmmmmmmmm OMG

Do you have a picture of the insert in question? I have some old
brass inserts with the slots. Anyway there are apparently numerous
styles of threaded inserts. I pretty much get the zinc style these
days with a flared top.

Here are my insertion instructions for my brass slotted inserts.
Specifically they want the slots up so that the special threads hold
better.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


The answer is in the picture.
Yours doesn't have the threads coming up all the way to the top-- it is
rounded and smooth all the way around.
If you look at the one diagrammed in those instructions, you will see
the the threads come all the way to the top, with the slot dissecting
the threads. That insert style would definitely cut hardwood when being
driven slot-side down.
They are also the ones I always break bits off of at that particular
section when trying to drive them with a flat-head! :-D


Got'cha!

On 9/14/2015 10:14 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 9/14/2015 8:53 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Oh, and the "devil of a time" comment was mostly due to trying to put
the insert in with a slot screwdriver. It was the widest one I had,
but still a tad narrower than it needed to be. It was just wide
enough to grab both slots - a little - but slipped out often. It's
also difficult to get it started plumb that way. My "new method" was
much better.

As he and I both have pointed out, there are several types of inserts
with the slot. Mine are specifically to be used with the slot up,
some can be used wither way. If yours are intended to to be used
either way using a screw driver might be more problematic. OR you
need to get a decent set of screw drivers. :~)

The only inserts I've ever seen that go in slot-down are the
press-in style you find in cheap furniture (and in those the
slot is intended to allow the insert body to flex, it's not
for driving).

Like Greg, I found the Hillman brand inserts (the ones stocked
by Home Depot and Lowes) to be undrivable with a screwdriver,
despite that evidently being the manufacturers intention, due
to the slot not being well formed - a screwdriver with a tip
thick enough to fit the slot well is wider than the insert
(also, the metal is weak, due to the slot being so wide, and
likely to break if you exert any force on the slot).

If you can find them, the style with a hex recess are far and
away the best inserts (and, obviously, go in hex-upwards).

John

Yeah I use the hex driver and hex style if at all possible.

On 9/14/2015 8:53 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/14/2015 8:23 AM, Swingman wrote:

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of the
threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

Oh, and the "devil of a time" comment was mostly due to trying to put
the insert in with a slot screwdriver. It was the widest one I had, but
still a tad narrower than it needed to be. It was just wide enough to
grab both slots - a little - but slipped out often. It's also difficult
to get it started plumb that way. My "new method" was much better.

Don't take anyone's word for it, try it yourself.

Learn to do it this way and, if you want ease of use and accuracy, I
guarantee you will never go back doing it any other way:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIhEqoKE8Dc

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 9/14/2015 4:00 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 9/14/2015 8:53 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 9/14/2015 8:23 AM, Swingman wrote:

Actually, the notches are designed to facilitate the cutting of the
threads and should go down in hardwoods.

Do it that way in hardwoods and you'll never go back.

Oh, and the "devil of a time" comment was mostly due to trying to put
the insert in with a slot screwdriver. It was the widest one I had, but
still a tad narrower than it needed to be. It was just wide enough to
grab both slots - a little - but slipped out often. It's also difficult
to get it started plumb that way. My "new method" was much better.

Don't take anyone's word for it, try it yourself.

Learn to do it this way and, if you want ease of use and accuracy, I
guarantee you will never go back doing it any other way:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIhEqoKE8Dc

Yeah! Those are way different than my brass inserts, the slot is on the
outer perimeter of the insert and in the threads. The ones I have are not.