I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:17:39 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks
The "best" would be the ultra-violet cured urethanes containing
aluminum oxide which is used on most prefinished hardwood flooring on
the market today. This would limit you to prefinished, of course.

Any finish designed for commercial hardwood flooring would be
acceptable for do-it-yourself installation and finishing. Possibly
something like "fabulon". Fabulon Crystal is the latest water-borne
product. The original stuff was laquer based - no longer available,
and the oil based product is still fairly widely available, The
Crystal doesn't stink NEARLY as bad!!!!
Apply a coat of dewaxed shellac as a sealer first to avoid raising the
grain and to avoid tannin bleed. Using a light amber shellac will give
the warm golden tone common to the oil based urethanes, using the
crystal clear water based urethane top coat.

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:34:05 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks
Match to the one it is primarilly seen with. I'd match the honey
maple. (since fading from one to the other from top to bottom is not
feasible) so when you look up the stairs from the main floor, they tie
together.

On 3/22/2015 8:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:34:05 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks
Match to the one it is primarilly seen with. I'd match the honey
maple. (since fading from one to the other from top to bottom is not
feasible) so when you look up the stairs from the main floor, they tie
together.

+1



--
Jeff

On 3/22/2015 8:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:34:05 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks
Match to the one it is primarilly seen with. I'd match the honey
maple. (since fading from one to the other from top to bottom is not
feasible) so when you look up the stairs from the main floor, they tie
together.

Interesting you mentioned fading. I jokingly stated to the wife I should
start at the bottom with honey maple and work my way with each step to a
darker shade until it matches the top floor. Sure would be an
interesting look.

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness shy at the top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness shy at the top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".
The "toppers" are only about 3/8" thick. The first step will be a
touch high, and the last a touch low - but it will take a well
calibrated foot to notice.

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 10:31:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness shy at the top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".
The "toppers" are only about 3/8" thick. The first step will be a
touch high, and the last a touch low - but it will take a well
calibrated foot to notice.

....or an elderly foot.

On 3/22/2015 10:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 10:31:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness shy at the top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".
The "toppers" are only about 3/8" thick. The first step will be a
touch high, and the last a touch low - but it will take a well
calibrated foot to notice.

...or an elderly foot.

My feet should adapt long before I reach the elderly stage.

Meanie wrote:
On 3/22/2015 8:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:34:05 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks
Match to the one it is primarilly seen with. I'd match the honey
maple. (since fading from one to the other from top to bottom is not
feasible) so when you look up the stairs from the main floor, they
tie together.

Interesting you mentioned fading. I jokingly stated to the wife I
should start at the bottom with honey maple and work my way with each
step to a darker shade until it matches the top floor. Sure would be
an interesting look.

Or risers one color, treads another?

On 3/23/2015 4:44 AM, Meanie wrote:
The "toppers" are only about 3/8" thick. The first step will be a
touch high, and the last a touch low - but it will take a well
calibrated foot to notice.

...or an elderly foot.

My feet should adapt long before I reach the elderly stage.

What about those who come after you?

Anything over 3/8" variance from top to bottom is a violation of code in
most locations, and dangerous as well.

On any future sale this would be part of a disclosure statement,
potentially making you liable for any future accidents caused by same.

When it comes to changing stair dimensions in a residence, do it
correctly, or don't do it at all ... particularly when making pubic note
of your intent on the Internet, which has a long memory.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 5:44:06 AM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
On 3/22/2015 10:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 10:31:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness shy at the top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember"..
The "toppers" are only about 3/8" thick. The first step will be a
touch high, and the last a touch low - but it will take a well
calibrated foot to notice.

...or an elderly foot.

My feet should adapt long before I reach the elderly stage.

How about your guests? Your parents and/or grandparents?

Obviously, it's your house and you can do what you like, but 'twere it me, I'd look into *replacing* the current treads with treads of the same thickness or modifying the floor at the top to account for the difference. I know that that is much easier said than done, but uneven steps is a pet-peeve with me.

My brother recently had a beautiful deck built as part of a major home remodel. There are 3 steps from the deck to the yard. The bottom step is less than 1/2" shorter than the other 2. At his "remodel warming" party, I watched guests stumble on that step all day the long. The elderly (my parents for example) stumbled the most.

DerbyDad03 wrote:


Obviously, it's your house and you can do what you like, but 'twere
it me, I'd look into *replacing* the current treads with treads of
the same thickness or modifying the floor at the top to account for
the difference. I know that that is much easier said than done, but
uneven steps is a pet-peeve with me.


I agree. Steps are something that defy the subconscience. What may seem
like a little bit is really not a little bit as feet traverse up a set of
stairs.

For all the hassle and the problems that will/could come from it, I'd simply
build a new set of stairs that fit my desires. You are really fooling
yourself if you think that any little changes will not be a problem. Spend
a day - do the job right and then brag about it here.

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness shy at the top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".

I agree that could screw something up. However, the carpet and pad
have a thickness and that thickness is being removed. Once that part
of the job is complete is when measuring can be done to determine the
actual rise is.

As others have said, small variations in the rise and/or run can be
dangerous.

On 03/23/2015 12:24 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps
have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness
shy atthe top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".

I agree that could screw something up. However, the carpet and pad
have a thickness and that thickness is being removed. Once that part
of the job is complete is when measuring can be done to determine the
actual rise is.

As others have said, small variations in the rise and/or run can be
dangerous.

There are all kinds of requirements by COde...height and uniformity of
height are only one of many. BTW, the uniformity is =3/8" max
variation in any one flight between highest/lowest.

A pretty nice compendium in one listing is at

http://www.slipnot.com/stair-tread-nosing-codes/

--

Gordon Shumway wrote in
:

I agree that could screw something up. However, the carpet and pad
have a thickness and that thickness is being removed. Once that part
of the job is complete is when measuring can be done to determine the
actual rise is.

I was going to say the same thing. Carpet plus pad are likely
1/4", perhaps more. Take a 1/4 off, add 3/8 is a small enough
difference it's not going to be noticed.

A more likely to be noticed difference, in the short term, is
if the new treads have a lip overhanging the risers. Since
the carpeted stairs probably didn't, you've got something
new to catch your toes going up...

John

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 3:31:04 PM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
Gordon Shumway wrote in
:

I agree that could screw something up. However, the carpet and pad
have a thickness and that thickness is being removed. Once that part
of the job is complete is when measuring can be done to determine the
actual rise is.

I was going to say the same thing. Carpet plus pad are likely
1/4", perhaps more. Take a 1/4 off, add 3/8 is a small enough
difference it's not going to be noticed.

A more likely to be noticed difference, in the short term, is
if the new treads have a lip overhanging the risers. Since
the carpeted stairs probably didn't, you've got something
new to catch your toes going up...

John

"Since the carpeted stairs probably didn't..."

Does anybody know the ratio of stairs with a waterfall installation vs. cap and band?

I've always had cap and band done. I think it looks so much better.

This guy says cap and band is the "preferred method".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWgT3z-FHNI

On 3/22/2015 6:17 PM, Meanie wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks


Prefinished will typically have a superior finish to what you could
apply and very often has a life time warranty.

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 07:23:48 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 5:44:06 AM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
On 3/22/2015 10:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 10:31:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness shy at the top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".
The "toppers" are only about 3/8" thick. The first step will be a
touch high, and the last a touch low - but it will take a well
calibrated foot to notice.

...or an elderly foot.

My feet should adapt long before I reach the elderly stage.

How about your guests? Your parents and/or grandparents?

Obviously, it's your house and you can do what you like, but 'twere it me, I'd look into *replacing* the current treads with treads of the same thickness or modifying the floor at the top to account for the difference. I know that that is much easier said than done, but uneven steps is a pet-peeve with me.

My brother recently had a beautiful deck built as part of a major home remodel. There are 3 steps from the deck to the yard. The bottom step is less than 1/2" shorter than the other 2. At his "remodel warming" party, I watched guests stumble on that step all day the long. The elderly (my parents for example) stumbled the most.
How about he measures first to see how close the top and bottom are
to start with. Has underlay been added to either floor? Was hardwood
original on either floor, or added later? Were the stairs accurately
installed to start with? Good chance putting hardwood on the stairs
will bring the stairs back into spec. Just as good chance as it taking
the stairs out of spec.


And you dan't say how much the visitors had to drink at the "warming"
party either!!!.

My basement stairs are 8" risers- the bottom step is 7" from the
floor, the top step is 7 1/2 inches. These are carpetted steps.
Upstairs they are also carpeted steps, from a tile floor at the bottom
to a carpet in the upstairs hall. 8" steps, 8 1/2 at the top, 8 1/2 at
the bottom. The bottom was originally a good half inch higher, as I
added 3/8 inch tile over Ditra - a full 3/4 inch over what was there
on the original main floor.Stairs are generally not made custom and
floor hights are not generally accurate to within 1/2 inch from house
to house.
Also, different codes specify different riser heights. Some places
allow from 4 to 7 inches, some allow up tp 7 1/2, some 8 1/4.

If I addeed hardwood toppers on my stairs it would CORRECT the diser
height on the top stair (the most dangerous tripping hazard)-;

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 12:38:22 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 03/23/2015 12:24 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:09:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 7:17:45 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:
I plan to remove the last remaining carpet in my home from my stairs and
will be installing treads and risers over the existing stairs, assuming
they are standard unfinished construction stairs. I'm contemplating the
purchase of prefinished or finishing Oak treads myself but will consider
overall cost for both. What is the best finish for treads to withstand
the daily trotting and long lasting effects?

Thanks

You'll be installing treads and risers *over* the existing stairs?

Isn't that going to screw something up? Assuming all of your steps
have the same rise now, aren't you going to be a tread thickness
shy atthe top of the stairs?

As my grandfather the mason/carpenter used to say "The feet remember".

I agree that could screw something up. However, the carpet and pad
have a thickness and that thickness is being removed. Once that part
of the job is complete is when measuring can be done to determine the
actual rise is.

As others have said, small variations in the rise and/or run can be
dangerous.

There are all kinds of requirements by COde...height and uniformity of
height are only one of many. BTW, the uniformity is =3/8" max
variation in any one flight between highest/lowest.

A pretty nice compendium in one listing is at

http://www.slipnot.com/stair-tread-nosing-codes/


Variation between steps in a flight is dangerous. MUCH more dangerous
than difference in transition from floor to stair and stair to floor.

On Mon, 23 Mar 2015 19:30:11 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

Gordon Shumway wrote in
:

I agree that could screw something up. However, the carpet and pad
have a thickness and that thickness is being removed. Once that part
of the job is complete is when measuring can be done to determine the
actual rise is.

I was going to say the same thing. Carpet plus pad are likely
1/4", perhaps more. Take a 1/4 off, add 3/8 is a small enough
difference it's not going to be noticed.

A more likely to be noticed difference, in the short term, is
if the new treads have a lip overhanging the risers. Since
the carpeted stairs probably didn't, you've got something
new to catch your toes going up...

John
My carpetted stairs, both to basement and upstairs, have the standard
nosing. The original carpetting on the upstairs stairway was
"waterfalled" but the basement stairs and replacement carpet on the
upper stairs is "nosed". It looks different, but no difference in
climbing the stairs.

Strange that in North America a nose is REQUIRED on closed riser
stairs under 11 inches (depth of tred) and in Australia, for instance,
the nose is NOT ALLOWED.

wrote:


Strange that in North America a nose is REQUIRED on closed riser
stairs under 11 inches (depth of tred) and in Australia, for instance,
the nose is NOT ALLOWED.

Never, ever heard that a nose was required as you state above. And - I live
in North America.

--

-Mike-

On 3/23/2015 5:00 PM, Leon wrote:


Prefinished will typically have a superior finish to what you could
apply and very often has a life time warranty.


I have a high quality laminate on the stairs from the lower level. I
have some pre-finished wood in the family room. These are the two most
heavily traveled places in the house. Both look as good as the day they
were put down. The wood about 10 years, the laminate at least 25 years.
Much superior than the typical poly finish we'd use.

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:34:05 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks
Match to the one it is primarilly seen with. I'd match the honey
maple. (since fading from one to the other from top to bottom is not
feasible) so when you look up the stairs from the main floor, they tie
together.

How about the face matching the lower floor, and the cap matching the upper
floor all the way up?

On 3/23/2015 8:19 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:34:05 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks
Match to the one it is primarilly seen with. I'd match the honey
maple. (since fading from one to the other from top to bottom is not
feasible) so when you look up the stairs from the main floor, they tie
together.

How about the face matching the lower floor, and the cap matching the
upper floor all the way up?



I like that idea. I'll have to envision or get those colors and see how
I like them in that setting.

On 3/23/2015 6:23 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Meanie wrote:
On 3/22/2015 8:20 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 19:34:05 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

Another question...... the room at the top of the stairs is a Red
Mahogany colored hardwood and the bottom is a honey maple. What
suggested color should the stairs be?

Thanks
Match to the one it is primarilly seen with. I'd match the honey
maple. (since fading from one to the other from top to bottom is not
feasible) so when you look up the stairs from the main floor, they
tie together.

Interesting you mentioned fading. I jokingly stated to the wife I
should start at the bottom with honey maple and work my way with each
step to a darker shade until it matches the top floor. Sure would be
an interesting look.

Or risers one color, treads another?


Yep, that's definitely they way I want to go and as Bob suggested,
perhaps the maple on risers and Mahogany on tread or even vice versa.