I made one file handle and used 3/4 copper pipe for the ferrule.
But now it looks too nice to throw in the toolbox but I did anyway

I got it pretty close on the lathe but to get the final fit I used
180 sandpaper so the ferrule just barely fit.

Drilled the first hole to match the small end of the file then
drilled part way with a bit that was a little smaller than
the wide end.

Held the file in one hand and beat on the other with my carving
mallet. This was a small flat metal file. 1/2" wide and 10" or so

Sprayed it with a few coats of lacquer and all's well

I stood out in the sun and sprayed all 3 coats quickly
rotating the handle for quick drying and no running.

Electric Comet" wrote in message
...
I made one file handle and used 3/4 copper pipe for the ferrule.
But now it looks too nice to throw in the toolbox but I did anyway

I got it pretty close on the lathe but to get the final fit I used
180 sandpaper so the ferrule just barely fit.

Drilled the first hole to match the small end of the file then
drilled part way with a bit that was a little smaller than
the wide end.

Held the file in one hand and beat on the other with my carving
mallet. This was a small flat metal file. 1/2" wide and 10" or so

Sprayed it with a few coats of lacquer and all's well

I stood out in the sun and sprayed all 3 coats quickly
rotating the handle for quick drying and no running.


Ah... come on. You have to post a picture of that for us.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Electric Comet" wrote in message
...
I made one file handle and used 3/4 copper pipe for the ferrule.
But now it looks too nice to throw in the toolbox but I did anyway

I got it pretty close on the lathe but to get the final fit I used
180 sandpaper so the ferrule just barely fit.

Drilled the first hole to match the small end of the file then
drilled part way with a bit that was a little smaller than
the wide end.

Held the file in one hand and beat on the other with my carving
mallet. This was a small flat metal file. 1/2" wide and 10" or so

Sprayed it with a few coats of lacquer and all's well

I stood out in the sun and sprayed all 3 coats quickly
rotating the handle for quick drying and no running.


Ah... come on. You have to post a picture of that for us.

I halfway expected to see some adventures in metal spinning to make your
ferrules.

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 16:56:42 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Electric Comet" wrote in message
...
I made one file handle and used 3/4 copper pipe for the ferrule.
But now it looks too nice to throw in the toolbox but I did anyway

I got it pretty close on the lathe but to get the final fit I used
180 sandpaper so the ferrule just barely fit.

Drilled the first hole to match the small end of the file then
drilled part way with a bit that was a little smaller than
the wide end.

Held the file in one hand and beat on the other with my carving
mallet. This was a small flat metal file. 1/2" wide and 10" or so

Sprayed it with a few coats of lacquer and all's well

I stood out in the sun and sprayed all 3 coats quickly
rotating the handle for quick drying and no running.


Ah... come on. You have to post a picture of that for us.

Don't hold your breath I have a nice camera but I barely use it
for it's intended purpose let alone anything else. I do need
to do better at this though. I may sell on etsy so will have to
take more. Doing it well takes time

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 16:57:46 -0700
"Bob La Londe" wrote:


I halfway expected to see some adventures in metal spinning to make
your ferrules.

Well you're not far off the mark here, I found some examples of
wood jam chucks for touching up ferrules. An inside jam chuck I
guess it'd be
I may do that some day just to dress up the ferrule

On 1/21/2015 3:52 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I made one file handle and used 3/4 copper pipe for the ferrule.
But now it looks too nice to throw in the toolbox but I did anyway

I got it pretty close on the lathe but to get the final fit I used
180 sandpaper so the ferrule just barely fit.

Drilled the first hole to match the small end of the file then
drilled part way with a bit that was a little smaller than
the wide end.

Held the file in one hand and beat on the other with my carving
mallet. This was a small flat metal file. 1/2" wide and 10" or so

Sprayed it with a few coats of lacquer and all's well

I stood out in the sun and sprayed all 3 coats quickly
rotating the handle for quick drying and no running.


If you get the ring just to tight - won't slip on -
that is perfect. Heat the ring - it expands and slip it on.
It will cool and compress the fit. Might have colors on it,
might want to polish them out.

Martin

On 1/21/2015 4:52 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I made one file handle and used 3/4 copper pipe for the ferrule.
But now it looks too nice to throw in the toolbox but I did anyway

I got it pretty close on the lathe but to get the final fit I used
180 sandpaper so the ferrule just barely fit.

Drilled the first hole to match the small end of the file then
drilled part way with a bit that was a little smaller than
the wide end.

Held the file in one hand and beat on the other with my carving
mallet. This was a small flat metal file. 1/2" wide and 10" or so

Sprayed it with a few coats of lacquer and all's well

I stood out in the sun and sprayed all 3 coats quickly
rotating the handle for quick drying and no running.







BTW I think they used to use heat to set a file in a handle. A little
heat at a time, push, remove, more heat, push, remove.

That's what I remember seeing somewhere about old time handles.

--
Jeff

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 20:06:58 -0600
Martin Eastburn wrote:

If you get the ring just to tight - won't slip on -
that is perfect. Heat the ring - it expands and slip it on.
It will cool and compress the fit. Might have colors on it,
might want to polish them out.

Sounds reasonable. Have you done this?

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 07:53:17 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 20:06:58 -0600
Martin Eastburn wrote:

If you get the ring just to tight - won't slip on -
that is perfect. Heat the ring - it expands and slip it on.
It will cool and compress the fit. Might have colors on it,
might want to polish them out.

Sounds reasonable. Have you done this?

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 23:05:49 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

On 1/21/2015 4:52 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I made one file handle and used 3/4 copper pipe for the ferrule.
But now it looks too nice to throw in the toolbox but I did anyway

I got it pretty close on the lathe but to get the final fit I used
180 sandpaper so the ferrule just barely fit.

Drilled the first hole to match the small end of the file then
drilled part way with a bit that was a little smaller than
the wide end.

Held the file in one hand and beat on the other with my carving
mallet. This was a small flat metal file. 1/2" wide and 10" or so

Sprayed it with a few coats of lacquer and all's well

I stood out in the sun and sprayed all 3 coats quickly
rotating the handle for quick drying and no running.







BTW I think they used to use heat to set a file in a handle. A little
heat at a time, push, remove, more heat, push, remove.

That's what I remember seeing somewhere about old time handles.
Some old shovel handles were "pyro-set" or "fire-fit"

On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 11:31:28 AM UTC-6, wrote:

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.

Similarly, I recall, when working offshore (college days), we'd have to change the brass bushing in the top pulley of the crane. We'd keep the bushing in the freezer, for it to shrink, a tad, allowing for better installing into the tight "ring" of the pulley. Once installed and it warms up (expand), it would further snug itself onto/inside the pulley wheel.

The concept has been around for ages.

Pic of a (brass?) bushing inside the pulley wheel:
http://www.kasirgakulevinc.com/yedek...LEY_51_en.html

Sonny

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 12:31:23 -0500
wrote:

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.

Does it burn the wood? If it did and I think it would then I would
not want to do so.

Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 11:31:28 AM UTC-6, wrote:

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.
Similarly, I recall, when working offshore (college days), we'd have to change the brass bushing in the top pulley of the crane. We'd keep the bushing in the freezer, for it to shrink, a tad, allowing for better installing into the tight "ring" of the pulley. Once installed and it warms up (expand), it would further snug itself onto/inside the pulley wheel.

The concept has been around for ages.

Pic of a (brass?) bushing inside the pulley wheel:
http://www.kasirgakulevinc.com/yedek...LEY_51_en.html

Sonny
Mom mom did it backwards, using hot water to get the metal lid off of
the peanut butter jar! : )

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 11:00:27 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 12:31:23 -0500
wrote:

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.

Does it burn the wood? If it did and I think it would then I would
not want to do so.



It will only burn the wood if the ring is too hot. For dry wood, think
about 450F max and you are fine.

On 1/22/2015 9:53 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 20:06:58 -0600
Martin Eastburn wrote:

If you get the ring just to tight - won't slip on -
that is perfect. Heat the ring - it expands and slip it on.
It will cool and compress the fit. Might have colors on it,
might want to polish them out.

Sounds reasonable. Have you done this?

Yes - nice to have a old convection oven in the shop for shop work.
I cook welding rods and cook rings to fit metal and wood.
On metal, the inside part is cooled and the outside is heated.
Metal - Slip it down a shaft and then into a ring area - trapped ring.

Martin

On 1/22/2015 1:01 PM, Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 11:31:28 AM UTC-6,
wrote:

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.
Similarly, I recall, when working offshore (college days), we'd have
to change the brass bushing in the top pulley of the crane. We'd
keep the bushing in the freezer, for it to shrink, a tad, allowing for
better installing into the tight "ring" of the pulley. Once installed
and it warms up (expand), it would further snug itself onto/inside the
pulley wheel.

The concept has been around for ages.

Pic of a (brass?) bushing inside the pulley wheel:
http://www.kasirgakulevinc.com/yedek...LEY_51_en.html


Sonny
Mom mom did it backwards, using hot water to get the metal lid off of
the peanut butter jar! : )
Mom did it right - the lid is a CUP. Cup expands and the threads loosen.

Rods get hot and lengthen and shrink in diameter.

Balls (bearings) get hot and get larger, but a close fitting ring will
expand faster. - an old Physics lesson. Linear expansion of the ring
and cubic expansion of the ball.

Martin

On 1/22/2015 1:00 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 12:31:23 -0500
wrote:

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.

Does it burn the wood? If it did and I think it would then I would
not want to do so.

You don't' need to get it to burning temp!

3-400 degrees F is all that is needed. Maybe less. Boiling water is
likely enough.

Martin

Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 1/22/2015 1:01 PM, Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 11:31:28 AM UTC-6,
wrote:

I've done it and it works pretty well. You don't get a large amount of
expansion, but they sure fit tight when you are done.
Similarly, I recall, when working offshore (college days), we'd have
to change the brass bushing in the top pulley of the crane. We'd
keep the bushing in the freezer, for it to shrink, a tad, allowing for
better installing into the tight "ring" of the pulley. Once installed
and it warms up (expand), it would further snug itself onto/inside the
pulley wheel.

The concept has been around for ages.

Pic of a (brass?) bushing inside the pulley wheel:
http://www.kasirgakulevinc.com/yedek...LEY_51_en.html



Sonny
My mom did it backwards, using hot water to get the metal lid off of
the peanut butter jar! : )
Mom did it right - the lid is a CUP. Cup expands and the threads loosen.

Rods get hot and lengthen and shrink in diameter.

Balls (bearings) get hot and get larger, but a close fitting ring will
expand faster. - an old Physics lesson. Linear expansion of the ring
and cubic expansion of the ball.

My mom wouldn't have got that at all. Her idea of a "ring" and yours,
are altogether different, but I enjoyed it! : )



Martin

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 21:11:29 -0500
wrote:


It will only burn the wood if the ring is too hot. For dry wood, think
about 450F max and you are fine.

It'll burn my fingers tho
I always go the simple route, well not always but I strive
lathe-little sanding-repeat until it almost fits
i also added a slight chamfer to the ferrule lip inside

the wood was very dry too

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 22:49:41 -0600
Martin Eastburn wrote:

You don't' need to get it to burning temp!

3-400 degrees F is all that is needed. Maybe less. Boiling water is
likely enough.

will stay the course of the simple route
lathe-sand-repeat