I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.

Electric Comet wrote in :

I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

Forget the graphite.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

Wax. Just plain old Johnson's Paste Wax.

In article ,
Electric Comet wrote:

I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.

Try using wd-40 and a scotch brite pad to clean the top AND especially
the underside of the ways. scrub vigorously and wipe down with paper
towels. Do the same thing to the bottom of tool rest, and the washer.
When all is clean spray wd-40 on a clean paper towel and coat the ways
(tops and underside) and the tool rest and washer. If you are turning
green wood, you will need to do this frequently, maybe daily. If using
dry wood, maybe every 2 months or so. Do NOT use graphite, it is too
messy, and will smear your wood.

You might also post this questionon rec.crafts.woodturning

Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.




I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.

--
 GW Ross 

 You have two choices for dinner: Take 
 it or Leave it. 

On 12/23/14 9:44 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.


http://www.super-lube.com/drifilm-aerosol-ezp-69.html

http://www.grainger.com/product/SUPE...Aerosol-44N743


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 07:44:28 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.



Way oil perhaps???

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 14:39:05 -0500, "G. Ross"
wrote:

Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.




I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.
Actually Boesheild T9 works pretty good

I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.
What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?
I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.



I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.



Actually Boesheild T9 works pretty good


.. everyone is too sheepish to suggest mutton tallow ..

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43415,43440

.. seriously though - WD40 should only be used - reluctantly -
- when you're away from home, and don't have any rem-oil available.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...f-lubricants-2
John T.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 17:32:53 -0500
wrote:

Way oil perhaps???

Is that what you use? How do you like it?
Looks appropriate for metal lathes.

I looked at southbend way oil and got caught up looking at the
refurb they did on a 1926 lathe. Hate when that happens.

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 14:39:05 -0500
"G. Ross" wrote:

I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.

I may have to try this. How thick is it? What kind of sprayer do
you use?

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 13:43:20 -0600
-MIKE- wrote:

http://www.super-lube.com/drifilm-aerosol-ezp-69.html

http://www.grainger.com/product/SUPE...Aerosol-44N743

You use these? Or just suggesting? If you use them how do they
perform?

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 14:39:05 -0500, "G.
wrote:

Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.




I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.
Actually Boesheild T9 works pretty good

I agree. But being half Scotch (and half water) I have been satisfied
with my concoction. It works for me, is cheap, and does not attract
sanding grit like oil, grease, or --heaven forfend--mutton grease.

--
 GW Ross 

 You have two choices for dinner: Take 
 it or Leave it. 

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 17:36:17 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 13:43:20 -0600
-MIKE- wrote:

http://www.super-lube.com/drifilm-aerosol-ezp-69.html

http://www.grainger.com/product/SUPE...Aerosol-44N743

You use these? Or just suggesting? If you use them how do they
perform?


I actually used the first spray superlub on my Myford metal turning
lathe years ago and it worked pretty good.

Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 14:39:05 -0500
"G. wrote:

I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.

I may have to try this. How thick is it? What kind of sprayer do
you use?




I shave the paraffin into thin pieces and drop them in a plastic
bottle about half full of mineral spirits. Shake it every time you
walk by. Keep adding wax until it is about as thick as 3 in one oil.
You can use a spray bottle like 4 0 9 comes in. I use a pressurized
refillable aluminum spray can that I bought years ago. I don't think
they still make them.
If the surface is gunky, I spray it, scrub it with a green
scotch-brite pad, wipe it off and then mist it again.

Another thing I make is penetrating grease. I take a can of lighter
fluid, pour it in a glass jar and add grease and shake it, adding
grease until it is the thickness of motor oil, then pour it back in
the lighter fluid can. A few drops on the cracks of a hinge and it
penetrates. The lighter fluid evaporates, leaving a film of grease
inside. I actually concocted it to use on bicycle chains. Have used
this for the past 40 years.
--
 GW Ross 

 You have two choices for dinner: Take 
 it or Leave it. 

Electric Comet wrote in :

On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 17:32:53 -0500
wrote:

Way oil perhaps???

Is that what you use? How do you like it?
Looks appropriate for metal lathes.

It *is* appropriate for metal lathes, where the shavings won't absorb the oil -- but it's totally the
wrong stuff for a wood lathe.

Just get some Johnson's Paste Wax and be done with it.

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.

I use Minwax paste wax.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

In article ,
wrote:

.. seriously though - WD40 should only be used - reluctantly -
- when you're away from home, and don't have any rem-oil available.

WD-40 isn't really a lubricant, IMO.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On 12/23/14 7:36 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 13:43:20 -0600 -MIKE-
wrote:

http://www.super-lube.com/drifilm-aerosol-ezp-69.html

http://www.grainger.com/product/SUPE...Aerosol-44N743

You use these? Or just suggesting? If you use them how do they
perform?



The links should be the same product, btw.
I do use Dri-Film and it's excellent, especially for the lathe bed to
avoid gunking up and/or collecting dust. You spray it on, the carrier
evaporates and it looks and feels completely dry. But man is it slippery!

Others are suggesting ways of applying wax using old techniques that are
labor intensive and unnecessary. If you decide to go the wax route, go
with Boeshield T-9. They already did the work for you. You spray it
on, the carrier evaporates, and you buff out any excess.

FWIW, I switched from T-9 to Dri-Film on my lathe because the T-9 is
still a wax and it will collect some dust.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/23/14 8:05 PM, G. Ross wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 14:39:05 -0500
"G. wrote:

I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.

I may have to try this. How thick is it? What kind of sprayer do
you use?




I shave the paraffin into thin pieces and drop them in a plastic bottle
about half full of mineral spirits. Shake it every time you walk by.
Keep adding wax until it is about as thick as 3 in one oil. You can use
a spray bottle like 4 0 9 comes in. I use a pressurized refillable
aluminum spray can that I bought years ago. I don't think they still
make them.
If the surface is gunky, I spray it, scrub it with a green scotch-brite
pad, wipe it off and then mist it again.


Or just buy a can of Boeshield. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/23/2014 4:32 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 07:44:28 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.



Way oil perhaps???

Metal lathe uses Way Oil. It won't run off a vertical surface :-)
But for wood, it would look like a harry beast once a cutting / sanding
took place.

Wax is the way for wood. Auto wax is very hard, liquid and cheap.

Martin

On 12/23/2014 9:05 PM, G. Ross wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 14:39:05 -0500
"G. wrote:

I have a bottle of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. I spray it
on and wipe down with paper towels every few months. It dries dry
and doesn't collect dust. Also use it on vice screw, bandsaw table,
saw table. It is good to spray on the heat pump fan shroud. Keeps
rain from freezing on it and obstructing the fan in winter.

I may have to try this. How thick is it? What kind of sprayer do
you use?




I shave the paraffin into thin pieces and drop them in a plastic bottle
about half full of mineral spirits. Shake it every time you walk by.
Keep adding wax until it is about as thick as 3 in one oil. You can use
a spray bottle like 4 0 9 comes in. I use a pressurized refillable
aluminum spray can that I bought years ago. I don't think they still
make them.
If the surface is gunky, I spray it, scrub it with a green scotch-brite
pad, wipe it off and then mist it again.

Another thing I make is penetrating grease. I take a can of lighter
fluid, pour it in a glass jar and add grease and shake it, adding grease
until it is the thickness of motor oil, then pour it back in the lighter
fluid can. A few drops on the cracks of a hinge and it penetrates. The
lighter fluid evaporates, leaving a film of grease inside. I actually
concocted it to use on bicycle chains. Have used this for the past 40
years.

All in all it's close to butcher or johnsons paste wax, just a little
more mineral spirits than they have.I tried making my own and realized
that butchers was close enough.

--
Jeff

On 12/23/2014 8:30 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 23 Dec 2014 17:32:53 -0500
wrote:

Way oil perhaps???

Is that what you use? How do you like it?
Looks appropriate for metal lathes.

I looked at southbend way oil and got caught up looking at the
refurb they did on a 1926 lathe. Hate when that happens.



I use way oil on my metal lathe, but would not use it on the wood lathe.
it will collect the dust and make a nice paste.

wax, or teflon for the wood lathe.. I use wax mostly.
I use teflon on my table saws's arbor ways.

--
Jeff

On 12/23/2014 10:44 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.




I've never used anything on mine. In fact I find that I need to clean mine
off with Stoddard solvent every now and then to remove the crud. Most
likely it is a matter of the materials involved, the geometry of the
surfaces, and the adjustments. The ways on my old lathe are heavy 2"
chrome-plated DOM steel tubes and the tailstock and banjo move on it pretty
well. If my lathe had flat machined ways I'd probably give Drislide a try
since it is not terribly messy and seems to stay where it is put.

On 2014-12-24 21:08:05 +0000, BenignBodger said:

On 12/23/2014 10:44 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.




I've never used anything on mine. In fact I find that I need to clean
mine off with Stoddard solvent every now and then to remove the crud.
Most likely it is a matter of the materials involved, the geometry of
the surfaces, and the adjustments. The ways on my old lathe are heavy
2" chrome-plated DOM steel tubes and the tailstock and banjo move on it
pretty well. If my lathe had flat machined ways I'd probably give
Drislide a try since it is not terribly messy and seems to stay where
it is put.

Well, Mineral Oil and WD40 are among the worst things, they attract
dust and bind to it, not a good thing. I would never use either.
I use BoeShield, it provides a slight bit of lube, and protects the bed
from corrosion.

I agree that lubing your ways is not the issue, the issue is binding of
some sort that a lube job will not fix

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.

Try tightening the washer so it doesn't drop as far away from the ways.
The it won't tilt on the bolt, which is likely what's causing the
binding.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On Fri, 26 Dec 2014 06:31:40 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg
wrote:

On 2014-12-24 21:08:05 +0000, BenignBodger said:

On 12/23/2014 10:44 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.




I've never used anything on mine. In fact I find that I need to clean
mine off with Stoddard solvent every now and then to remove the crud.
Most likely it is a matter of the materials involved, the geometry of
the surfaces, and the adjustments. The ways on my old lathe are heavy
2" chrome-plated DOM steel tubes and the tailstock and banjo move on it
pretty well. If my lathe had flat machined ways I'd probably give
Drislide a try since it is not terribly messy and seems to stay where
it is put.

Well, Mineral Oil and WD40 are among the worst things, they attract
dust and bind to it, not a good thing. I would never use either.
I use BoeShield, it provides a slight bit of lube, and protects the bed
from corrosion.

I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than lubricating. I
haven't had time to strip it off my saw top and try Topkote but it
should work well on the way, too. No?

I agree that lubing your ways is not the issue, the issue is binding of
some sort that a lube job will not fix

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than lubricating. I
haven't had time to strip it off my saw top and try Topkote but it
should work well on the way, too. No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as a
lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than lubricating. I
haven't had time to strip it off my saw top and try Topkote but it
should work well on the way, too. No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as a
lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

Exactly. "Waxy" - good word.

On 12/27/14 9:54 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than lubricating. I
haven't had time to strip it off my saw top and try Topkote but it
should work well on the way, too. No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as a
lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

Exactly. "Waxy" - good word.


That's the most accurate description for it considering it's, um.....
WAX. :-D
Paraffin to be precise.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/27/14 9:54 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than lubricating. I
haven't had time to strip it off my saw top and try Topkote but it
should work well on the way, too. No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as a
lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

Exactly. "Waxy" - good word.


That's the most accurate description for it considering it's, um.....
WAX. :-D
Paraffin to be precise.



Okay, if you want to be precise, I guess a Piranha is Paraffiny too.. ; )

On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than lubricating. I
haven't had time to strip it off my saw top and try Topkote but it
should work well on the way, too. No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as a
lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).
You need to polish the Boeshield in -wipe off the excess.

On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 11:54:13 -0500, Bill
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/27/14 9:54 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than lubricating. I
haven't had time to strip it off my saw top and try Topkote but it
should work well on the way, too. No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as a
lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

Exactly. "Waxy" - good word.


That's the most accurate description for it considering it's, um.....
WAX. :-D
Paraffin to be precise.



Okay, if you want to be precise, I guess a Piranha is Paraffiny too.. ; )

The msds only lists odorless mineral spirits and white mineral oil

On 12/27/14 1:03 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 11:54:13 -0500, Bill
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/27/14 9:54 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than
lubricating. I haven't had time to strip it off my saw top
and try Topkote but it should work well on the way, too.
No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as
a lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

Exactly. "Waxy" - good word.


That's the most accurate description for it considering it's,
um..... WAX. :-D Paraffin to be precise.



Okay, if you want to be precise, I guess a Piranha is Paraffiny
too.. ; )

The msds only lists odorless mineral spirits and white mineral oil


From their website: "T-9’s unique formulation of solvent carrier and
paraffin wax..."

I believe MSDS info only has to list potentially hazardous material and
manufactures aren't necessarily compelled to list proprietary
ingredients that would reveal patented secrets, etc. Or something like
that.

In any case, one MSDS (which you probably read) lists odorless mineral
spirits and white mineral oil. You will notice the percentages of those
only add up to 71, however.

Another MSDS also lists propane, butane and other petroleum distillates
as well as mineral spirits and white mineral oil. These things all only
add up to 76% of ingredients and are likely the carriers and
propellents. This MSDS also lists Non-Hazardous Components as the
remaining 24% ingredients, which we can assume to be the paraffin wax
Boeshield claims to be business end of the product.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 13:27:44 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/27/14 1:03 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 11:54:13 -0500, Bill
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/27/14 9:54 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than
lubricating. I haven't had time to strip it off my saw top
and try Topkote but it should work well on the way, too.
No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as
a lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

Exactly. "Waxy" - good word.


That's the most accurate description for it considering it's,
um..... WAX. :-D Paraffin to be precise.



Okay, if you want to be precise, I guess a Piranha is Paraffiny
too.. ; )

The msds only lists odorless mineral spirits and white mineral oil


From their website: "T-9’s unique formulation of solvent carrier and
paraffin wax..."

I believe MSDS info only has to list potentially hazardous material and
manufactures aren't necessarily compelled to list proprietary
ingredients that would reveal patented secrets, etc. Or something like
that.

In any case, one MSDS (which you probably read) lists odorless mineral
spirits and white mineral oil. You will notice the percentages of those
only add up to 71, however.

Another MSDS also lists propane, butane and other petroleum distillates
as well as mineral spirits and white mineral oil. These things all only
add up to 76% of ingredients and are likely the carriers and
propellents. This MSDS also lists Non-Hazardous Components as the
remaining 24% ingredients, which we can assume to be the paraffin wax
Boeshield claims to be business end of the product.
One MSDS is for "bulk" and the other is for "aerosol". The "bulk" has
no propellants.

So up to 24% is Paraffin wax and proprietary non-hazardous materials
not listed.

On 12/27/14 3:19 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 13:27:44 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/27/14 1:03 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 11:54:13 -0500, Bill
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
On 12/27/14 9:54 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:45:36 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
I find that the BoeShield on my saw is more gummy than
lubricating. I haven't had time to strip it off my saw top
and try Topkote but it should work well on the way, too.
No?

I think of BoeShield as being "waxy". I haven't regarded as
a lubricant, but as a protector (from rust).

Exactly. "Waxy" - good word.


That's the most accurate description for it considering it's,
um..... WAX. :-D Paraffin to be precise.



Okay, if you want to be precise, I guess a Piranha is Paraffiny
too.. ; )

The msds only lists odorless mineral spirits and white mineral oil


From their website: "T-9’s unique formulation of solvent carrier and
paraffin wax..."

I believe MSDS info only has to list potentially hazardous material and
manufactures aren't necessarily compelled to list proprietary
ingredients that would reveal patented secrets, etc. Or something like
that.

In any case, one MSDS (which you probably read) lists odorless mineral
spirits and white mineral oil. You will notice the percentages of those
only add up to 71, however.

Another MSDS also lists propane, butane and other petroleum distillates
as well as mineral spirits and white mineral oil. These things all only
add up to 76% of ingredients and are likely the carriers and
propellents. This MSDS also lists Non-Hazardous Components as the
remaining 24% ingredients, which we can assume to be the paraffin wax
Boeshield claims to be business end of the product.
One MSDS is for "bulk" and the other is for "aerosol". The "bulk" has
no propellants.

So up to 24% is Paraffin wax and proprietary non-hazardous materials
not listed.


Makes sense to me.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:45:34 AM UTC-6, Electric Comet wrote:
I still haven't found the right lube for the lathe bed. Mineral oil
doesn't stay around long due to dust. I tried wd40 and the dust took
it away too. I'm going to try something with graphite in it next.

What do you use? Does it stay on or am I dreaming that such a lube
exists that will stay around a while?

I'm annoyed when sliding my tool rest, I always have to put my hand
down under and grab the washer to keep it from binding and then slide
the tool rest. The tail stock's not a problem since there's more
surface area it can trap some lube under it.

I use a product called "Slipit" which is referred to as a sliding compound. It comes in both spray and wipe on. I use the wipe on that you apply with a brush or a wet rag and then wipe it off. Not only does it help things slide easier it provides pretty good rust protection for the lathe bed, saw tables, drill press, etc. The wipe process is a little messy but does not take long. I also use it for the sliding mechanisms on our camper slide out rooms.

It is silicon-free and doesn't leave residue. I get mine from Grizzly but I think I have seen it at Woodcraft and other places. A quart can will last a long time - Loooong time.

RonB