The checked trestle leg unit is now flexing at/along the check line. I'm prepping it, to apply the epoxy in the crack. I can apply clamps and close the lower part of the crack by about 1/4", from about 1/2" to 5/16". The top edge of the unit hardly budges, when clamped.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

There are splinters inside the crack, from one side to the other, which I hope will help grab on and hold the epoxy, aiding the epoxy to hold the halves together firmly.

Questions:
1) Do you think the epoxy, alone, will hold the two sides, as is, firm enough, so that there is no flexing at the check line? OR..

2) Would you recommend putting dowels, diagonally, on/through the top and bottom (3-1/2") edges.... not on the faces, to help secure the check line from flexing? I'm considering applying dowels. I don't want to use metal bolts.

3) Once epoxied (and doweled?), should I clamp the crack more closed, or should I leave it as naturally open/wide, as it is unclamped? If I clamp it, I'm wondering if there will be a significant spring-back, once the clamps are removed, hence compromising the epoxy bond. It's hard to tell how much force the spring-back pressure is, when dry clamping & releasing. It takes some good strong cranking, on the clamp handles, to close the crack by 1/4". The first 1/8" closes fairly easy.

4) Is there any other options to consider, for further securing/preventing the flexing at the crack line?

Thanks for any help.
Sonny

"Sonny" wrote:

The checked trestle leg unit is now flexing at/along the check line.
I'm prepping it, to apply the epoxy in the crack. I can apply clamps
and close the lower part of the crack by about 1/4", from about 1/2"
to 5/16". The top edge of the unit hardly budges, when clamped.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

There are splinters inside the crack, from one side to the other,
which I hope will help grab on and hold the epoxy, aiding the epoxy to
hold the halves together firmly.

Questions:
1) Do you think the epoxy, alone, will hold the two sides, as is, firm
enough, so that there is no flexing at the check line? OR..

2) Would you recommend putting dowels, diagonally, on/through the top
and bottom (3-1/2") edges.... not on the faces, to help secure the
check line from flexing? I'm considering applying dowels. I don't
want to use metal bolts.

3) Once epoxied (and doweled?), should I clamp the crack more closed,
or should I leave it as naturally open/wide, as it is unclamped? If
I clamp it, I'm wondering if there will be a significant spring-back,
once the clamps are removed, hence compromising the epoxy bond. It's
hard to tell how much force the spring-back pressure is, when dry
clamping & releasing. It takes some good strong cranking, on the
clamp handles, to close the crack by 1/4". The first 1/8" closes
fairly easy.

4) Is there any other options to consider, for further
securing/preventing the flexing at the crack line?
------------------------------------------------------------------
Do yourself a big favor and run the following:

Cover a piece of plywood with some plastic sheet.

Take a couple of furring strips say 2-1/2" x 12" x 3/4"
and screw them to the plastic covered plywood about
3/4" to 1" apart to create a gap about 12" long.

Mix up about 2-4 ounces of epoxy, then mix in enough
microballoons to thicken to the consistancy of mayonaisse.

Use a paint stick to fill the gap with the thickened epoxy.

Wait 2-3 days, then unscrew from plywood and play with it.

Gain some confidence in the epoxy fairing putty joint, then
get back to me.

At this point in time your lack of experience with epoxy fairing
putty is creating a lot of concern that is unnecessary.

Lew

"Sonny" wrote in message

The checked trestle leg unit is now flexing at/along the check line.
I'm
prepping it, to apply the epoxy in the crack. I can apply clamps and
close the lower part of the crack by about 1/4", from about 1/2" to
5/16". The top edge of the unit hardly budges, when clamped.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

There are splinters inside the crack, from one side to the other, which
I
hope will help grab on and hold the epoxy, aiding the epoxy to hold the
halves together firmly.

It really doesn't need much help.

Questions:
1) Do you think the epoxy, alone, will hold the two sides, as is, firm
enough, so that there is no flexing at the check line? OR..

I think the epoxy alone would be sufficient.

2) Would you recommend putting dowels, diagonally, on/through the top
and
bottom (3-1/2") edges.... not on the faces, to help secure the check
line
from flexing? I'm considering applying dowels. I don't want to use
metal bolts.

Can't hurt. Why don't you want to use metal?

3) Once epoxied (and doweled?), should I clamp the crack more closed, or
should I leave it as naturally open/wide, as it is unclamped? If I
clamp it, I'm wondering if there will be a significant spring-back, once
the clamps are removed, hence compromising the epoxy bond. It's hard
to
tell how much force the spring-back pressure is, when dry clamping &
releasing. It takes some good strong cranking, on the clamp handles, to
close the crack by 1/4". The first 1/8" closes fairly easy.

I probably would not try to close it. If I did, I'd not use great
pressure, would settle for the1/8th. If you do clamp it (at all) plan on
leaving the clamps on for at least a week...epoxy cures overnight but not
completely for at least a week.

4) Is there any other options to consider, for further
securing/preventing the flexing at the crack line?

Bowtie inserts. Or even diagonally crossing dadoes with wood inserts.
I'd do neither, would wait to see the effects of epoxy alone first.

Thanks for any help.
Sonny

Be sure to scrape out any rot or soft wood from the checks. You'll need
to either thicken the epoxy or put tape across the bottom so the epoxy
doesn't run out. Good luck, it is an interesting project.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 8/12/2014 7:43 AM, Sonny wrote:
Both your comments has educated me. I do have limited experience with epoxy, and no eperience for this kind of application, and need the learning. My previous epoxy experience was for filler applications, for bad powderpost beetle holey brittle wood repairs, so that upholstery stapling would be secure.... and I repaired broken composite stool legs, both with System3's epoxy.

For this project's application, I purchased West Systems' G-Flex 650-8 epoxy.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
To my understanding, this is the more liquid product, as I intended it to flow deep into the crack, for max contact and volume. Maybe I should have purchased the thicker G-Flex 855-8, but not sure how much I will be able to press deep into the crack, especially in the more narrow spaces. I don't know just how thick the 855-8 is. With the slab 3-1/2" thick, I thought to work the epoxy in from both sides of the slab.

Okay, so I'm off to get more epoxy and some microballoons. I do have some thick (2"& 6") cypress wood pieces, with cracks, that I may fill/test, to and see how those mock repairs work out, along with Lew's test/experience suggestion.

Thanks.
Sonny

Sonny, for what it's worth, microballoons are NON-structural fillers.

If the idea is to clamp the cracks together AT ALL, micro won't hold for
long. Use milled fiber (cotton) fillers or the like for that.

But if there will be no tension on the repair, micro works fine.

Both your comments has educated me. I do have limited experience with epoxy, and no eperience for this kind of application, and need the learning. My previous epoxy experience was for filler applications, for bad powderpost beetle holey brittle wood repairs, so that upholstery stapling would be secure.... and I repaired broken composite stool legs, both with System3's epoxy.

For this project's application, I purchased West Systems' G-Flex 650-8 epoxy.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
To my understanding, this is the more liquid product, as I intended it to flow deep into the crack, for max contact and volume. Maybe I should have purchased the thicker G-Flex 855-8, but not sure how much I will be able to press deep into the crack, especially in the more narrow spaces. I don't know just how thick the 855-8 is. With the slab 3-1/2" thick, I thought to work the epoxy in from both sides of the slab.

Okay, so I'm off to get more epoxy and some microballoons. I do have some thick (2" & 6") cypress wood pieces, with cracks, that I may fill/test, to and see how those mock repairs work out, along with Lew's test/experience suggestion.

Thanks.
Sonny

"Sonny" wrote in message


For this project's application, I purchased West Systems' G-Flex 650-8
epoxy.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
To my understanding, this is the more liquid product, as I intended it
to
flow deep into the crack, for max contact and volume. Maybe I should
have purchased the thicker G-Flex 855-8, but not sure how much I will be
able to press deep into the crack, especially in the more narrow spaces.
I don't know just how thick the 855-8 is. With the slab 3-1/2" thick, I
thought to work the epoxy in from both sides of the slab.

Epoxy flows very well. Slowly but well, you won't have to press (with
unthickened epoxy).

Okay, so I'm off to get more epoxy and some microballoons. I do have
some thick (2" & 6") cypress wood pieces, with cracks, that I may
fill/test, to and see how those mock repairs work out, along with Lew's
test/experience suggestion.

Good idea, it will educate you

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Sonny" wrote in message
...
The checked trestle leg unit is now flexing at/along the check line. I'm
prepping it, to apply the epoxy in the crack. I can apply clamps and close
the lower part of the crack by about 1/4", from about 1/2" to 5/16". The
top edge of the unit hardly budges, when clamped.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

There are splinters inside the crack, from one side to the other, which I
hope will help grab on and hold the epoxy, aiding the epoxy to hold the
halves together firmly.

Questions:
1) Do you think the epoxy, alone, will hold the two sides, as is, firm
enough, so that there is no flexing at the check line? OR..

2) Would you recommend putting dowels, diagonally, on/through the top and
bottom (3-1/2") edges.... not on the faces, to help secure the check line
from flexing? I'm considering applying dowels. I don't want to use metal
bolts.

3) Once epoxied (and doweled?), should I clamp the crack more closed, or
should I leave it as naturally open/wide, as it is unclamped? If I clamp
it, I'm wondering if there will be a significant spring-back, once the
clamps are removed, hence compromising the epoxy bond. It's hard to tell
how much force the spring-back pressure is, when dry clamping & releasing.
It takes some good strong cranking, on the clamp handles, to close the crack
by 1/4". The first 1/8" closes fairly easy.

4) Is there any other options to consider, for further securing/preventing
the flexing at the crack line?

Thanks for any help.
Sonny

Just a thought for which I might be laughed out of court.
The check is a natural feature of this fine looking piece of timber. Clamp
and glue are going to move the stresses elsewhere. Why not retain it as a
significant part of the structure?
If it were me I would look at making some butterfly or infinity symbol
(figure of 8 on its side) inserts and laying these into the (lightly)
clamped timber. Inserts of similar or contrasting timber. Of course this may
be against the design ethic but nothing is set in stone.
The voids could afterward be filled if required. I wouldn't.

Just my 2p's worth.
Nick.
UK.

On Monday, August 11, 2014 8:49:08 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
The checked trestle leg unit is now flexing at/along the check line. I'm prepping it, to apply the epoxy in the crack. I can apply clamps and close the lower part of the crack by about 1/4", from about 1/2" to 5/16". The top edge of the unit hardly budges, when clamped.

Hi Sonny,

I'm sorry, I haven't been following all the threads on your project, but I have a question. Have you put a moisture meter on this piece?

"Michael" wrote in message
...
On Monday, August 11, 2014 8:49:08 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
The checked trestle leg unit is now flexing at/along the check line. I'm
prepping it, to apply the epoxy in the crack. I can apply clamps and
close the lower part of the crack by about 1/4", from about 1/2" to 5/16".
The top edge of the unit hardly budges, when clamped.

Hi Sonny,

I'm sorry, I haven't been following all the threads on your project, but I
have a question. Have you put a moisture meter on this piece?
Showing my ignorance perhaps, but how will knowledge of the moisture content
be of any assistance at this stage of the proceedings?
Nick.
UK.

"Sonny" wrote:


For this project's application, I purchased West Systems' G-Flex 650-8
epoxy.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
To my understanding, this is the more liquid product, as I intended it
to flow deep into the crack, for max contact and volume. Maybe I
should have purchased the thicker G-Flex 855-8, but not sure how much
I will be able to press deep into the crack, especially in the more
narrow spaces. I don't know just how thick the 855-8 is. With the
slab 3-1/2" thick, I thought to work the epoxy in from both sides of
the slab.

Okay, so I'm off to get more epoxy and some microballoons. I do have
some thick (2" & 6") cypress wood pieces, with cracks, that I may
fill/test, to and see how those mock repairs work out, along with
Lew's test/experience suggestion.
----------------------------------------------------
The last thing you want to do is try to fill they cracks by dripping
epoxy into them. You won't be able to get rid of the damaged
wood in the crack before you apply the epoxy.

Thing of yourself as a wood dentist who has to fill a wood tooth
and stop the wood decay.

Time to get out your saber saw and hand drill with a forstner bit
or a hole saw and open up those cracks so you can get rid of
the damaged/rotted wood contained along the side walls of the
cracks.

Like the dentist, once you have removed all the decay, it's
time to fill the crack(tooth) with fairing putty (epoxy filled with
microballoons).

I'd probably open those cracks to 3/4" minimum width.

I'd also drill a 3/4" thru hole with the center at the end of the
crack.

That way, you have stopped the crack from penetrating any
further into the wood.

You don't need clamps, dowels, nails, etc to get a finished repair.

The only thing you required other than the epoxy fairing putty is
patience and good preparation.

Lew

On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 1:51:48 PM UTC-5, Nick wrote:
The check is a natural feature of this fine looking piece of timber.... Why not retain it as a significant part of the structure?

I will maintain the faces as is. I'll just fill the crack with epoxy to cover up the space and help secure the two haves as best as the epoxy will adhere/hold.

Michael wrote moisture meter

It's green wood, but the surfaces are dry to touch, that's why I earlier asked for opinions about epoxy for wet/green wood or surfaces. It'll take a few years for the leg units to air dry. I was told, by the kiln guy, not to attempt to kiln dry a slab as this... it would crack and split apart, all over, and may not function as I want. He said I'd want it to very slowly air dry. I have lots of experience air drying milled lumber, but not figured, knarled, dense rootball stock as this.

I've done all the trimming I'll do, from it initial large size, so I won't be cutting into any more really wet (interior) wood. I'm hoping the more dry surfaces will better accommodate the adherence of the epoxy, also.... the instructions for the G-Flex 655-8 state this is a preferred circumstance. I'm reading the 650-8 instructions, now, probably will have the same comments, regarding that.

Lew, re damaged wood in the crack.

There appears to be only good solid wood in the crack, no rot, decay or weak areas. It appears to be good solid wood that has simply checked up the middle. The splinters, in the crack, are solid, also, extend across the span and they are pretty much holding the two halves together on the bottom end. The top end has much more robust wood holding the halves together.

When I first cut the slab, there was no flexing along the check line. As the slab has dried, I'm supposing the check widened, the splinters became more prominent/visable and the flexing developed. When cut, I wasn't able to see through the crack, but now the crack has widened and I can easily see through some areas on the bottom end. It may be good that I haven't secured/filled/"fixed" the check, before now. Allowing some drying and shrinkage may be a good thing, before attempting any "fix".

Today, I bought the G-Flex 655-8, so I have both the more liquid 650-8 and the thicker 655-8. I have some samples poured. I'll see & test the results in a few days.

Sonny

"Sonny" wrote:

I will maintain the faces as is. I'll just fill the crack with epoxy
to cover up the space and help secure the two haves as best as the
epoxy will adhere/hold.

It's green wood, but the surfaces are dry to touch, that's why I
earlier asked for opinions about epoxy for wet/green wood or surfaces.
It'll take a few years for the leg units to air dry. I was told, by
the kiln guy, not to attempt to kiln dry a slab as this... it would
crack and split apart, all over, and may not function as I want. He
said I'd want it to very slowly air dry. I have lots of experience
air drying milled lumber, but not figured, knarled, dense rootball
stock as this.

I've done all the trimming I'll do, from it initial large size, so I
won't be cutting into any more really wet (interior) wood. I'm hoping
the more dry surfaces will better accommodate the adherence of the
epoxy, also.... the instructions for the G-Flex 655-8 state this is a
preferred circumstance. I'm reading the 650-8 instructions, now,
probably will have the same comments, regarding that.

Lew, re damaged wood in the crack.

There appears to be only good solid wood in the crack, no rot, decay
or weak areas. It appears to be good solid wood that has simply
checked up the middle. The splinters, in the crack, are solid, also,
extend across the span and they are pretty much holding the two halves
together on the bottom end. The top end has much more robust wood
holding the halves together.

When I first cut the slab, there was no flexing along the check line.
As the slab has dried, I'm supposing the check widened, the splinters
became more prominent/visable and the flexing developed. When cut, I
wasn't able to see through the crack, but now the crack has widened
and I can easily see through some areas on the bottom end. It may be
good that I haven't secured/filled/"fixed" the check, before now.
Allowing some drying and shrinkage may be a good thing, before
attempting any "fix".

Today, I bought the G-Flex 655-8, so I have both the more liquid 650-8
and the thicker 655-8. I have some samples poured. I'll see & test
the results in a few days.

------------------------------------------------------------------
The further this conversation goes, the more convinced that you
should wait another year before continuing this conversation.

Especially with your knowledge of air drying lumber.

A year from now, the cracks will still be there, only things
will be a little more stable.

Try to push mother nature and she will bite you in the ass.

Just my nickel.

Lew

On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:56:40 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:

The further this conversation goes, the more convinced that you

should wait another year before continuing this conversation.


Especially with your knowledge of air drying lumber.


A year from now, the cracks will still be there, only things

will be a little more stable.



Try to push mother nature and she will bite you in the ass.



Just my nickel.



Lew

Ayup. Going with Lew on this one. I helped a friend's friend in his shop and we glued together a bunch of mesquite. Now mesquite is touted as North America's most stable wood, and having worked with a lot of it, I can believe it.

But like any wood, until it is dry enough to be stable, it does what it wants. I like using epoxy to fill cracks. I color it with copier toner, toner with brass shavings, and anything else that catches my fancy that won't spoil the epoxy.

More than once though, I have carefully cleaned out a crack or lines of severe wind shake to and filled them, only to have the crack move over and start up again. If the wood is unstable, using epoxy as you have described simply won't be a reliable method to use. And you should remember that the large the piece of wood you are tackling, the great the movement will be as the wood fibers release their energy.

With the pent up energy stored in the wood fibers starts to release (which is readily seen in some woods that warp terribly when drying) while it is wet, you never know what you will get or how well your repair will hold.

Robert

On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 11:51:08 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:56:40 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote: The further this conversation goes, the more convinced that you should wait another year before continuing this conversation. Especially with your knowledge of air drying lumber. A year from now, the cracks will still be there, only things will be a little more stable. Try to push mother nature and she will bite you in the ass. Just my nickel. Lew Ayup. Going with Lew on this one.

Agreed. My present fix is to help stablize the flexing and, to some degree, make a repair, albeit a temporary one. I want to get the leg units in assembly condition, despite the green wood, not in finishing condition. I won't be able to finish them, properly, until they dry... in a few years. The plan was to get the dining table assembled for use at the camp/farm this hunting season, then fully finish it some years later. I can finish the table top, since it is, essentially, ready for permanent finishing.

One option, I originally thought (posted about, 2 months(?) ago), was to saw along the check, to remove the visible crack. Initially, I didn't want the check visable, at all. At that time, I was steered to the epoxy fix option and to color it, for a better appearance. In the future, I'll still have the option of cutting out the check, no matter how much more it expands.

In the future, the table will be easy to disassemble, since these base parts will be keyed mortise/tenon through joints. The keyed mortise/tenon approach is the best option for the expected (mandatory?) future disassembling, for making the permanent repairs and for proper finishing. The leg units will continue to air dry, while we use the table. This checked leg unit needs to be, at least, temporarily stabilized, for assembly of the trestle board (by end of next week, maybe).

Being able to readily disassemble a large heavy table, as this, is a must. There's no way to conveniently move this large of table, once it's assembled. This assemble/disassemble design approach accommodates the present temporary fix and future permanent fix, of this problematic/checked leg unit..... and will accommodate any other problem, I may have with, or refinishing, I may want for, the table's individual parts, later.

Sonny

In essence, for now and for the present conditions, I'm convinced the epoxy option is my best. All the advice and help is greatly appreciated. Hope to have some feedback and pics by end of next week, or so.

Additionally: We've been using the new shop, at the farm, as a camp. Jonas erected a temp shelf for the TV, on the bathroom wall. We've made a few other improvements, for living conveniences, etc., the past few months. That ugly TV shelf needs replacing. https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream I hope to have the new faux fireplace/mantle/TV shelf completed, maybe, this weekend, so pics may be forthcoming for that, also.

Sonny

On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:56:40 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
The further this conversation goes, the more convinced that you should wait another year before continuing this conversation. Lew

When I cut the slabs, the checked one was stable, no flexing along the check line, so I assumed it may stay that way. The leg unit appeared to be pretty solid, stable. My post, a few months ago, was about whether to cut out the check or fill it, since it was unsightly, only, not that it was structurally unsound.

The flexing issue didn't develope until recently, during the fitting process of the trestle board. Now that the flexing issue has developed, I'm having to rethink my approach for the fitting of the trestle board, without creating more "damage". I just need a temp fix, to complete the trestle board fitting. The permanent fix and finishing, of both legs, will be done in a few years.

Thanks Lew. Your advise has been really helpful. This epoxy knowledge is definitely an asset. I'm encouraged and anxious to see & test the results of my samples.

Sonny

On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 6:59:29 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 1:51:48 PM UTC-5, Nick wrote:

The check is a natural feature of this fine looking piece of timber..... Why not retain it as a significant part of the structure?



I will maintain the faces as is. I'll just fill the crack with epoxy to cover up the space and help secure the two haves as best as the epoxy will adhere/hold.



Michael wrote moisture meter



It's green wood, but the surfaces are dry to touch, that's why I earlier asked for opinions about epoxy for wet/green wood or surfaces. It'll take a few years for the leg units to air dry. I was told, by the kiln guy, not to attempt to kiln dry a slab as this... it would crack and split apart, all over, and may not function as I want. He said I'd want it to very slowly air dry. I have lots of experience air drying milled lumber, but not figured, knarled, dense rootball stock as this.

That was a concern, whether epoxy would set up well on wood that is not dry enough. The other concern is that you will be dealing with this again if the wood is not sufficiently dry, either with this crack or if others appear elsewhere in the project. Wood checks because it dries unevenly, so if there was a way to seal off the end grains during the drying process, checks would be less likely.

3/4"

That can be tricky. Most epoxies have the danger of scorching when applied
1/2" thick or thicker.

On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 9:30:26 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
That was a concern, whether epoxy would set up well on wood that is not dry enough.

This West System epoxy is specific for wet surfaces. Thanks to Lew and Robert for steering me to these epoxies.

I won't do anything special, about this rootball stock. If it splits badly, I'll just deal with what developes, as best I can. My customer (me) is cheap and non-paying, so to heck with perfection, for the moment. I've long worked with all sorts of salvaged and natural stock, with all sorts of defects. Defects look and function good enough, sometimes. Just another learning project, but it'll turn out good... I can feel it.

Last night, I got the trestle board tenons to fit right, in the leg mortises. Another milestone accomplished.

Yesterday, I brought the table top boards to Laf. Woodworks, to have them planed on one side. Planing fee $13. Replacement 24" planer blades, because they hit a freaking nail in one board, plus unistall/reinstall labor fee, I ain't saying, but I'm happy with the results. I didn't mind paying them for those damages. They've done excellent work for me in the past.

Sonny

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:45:24 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
3/4" That can be tricky. Most epoxies have the danger of scorching when applied 1/2" thick or thicker.

Doing several test applications on scrap wood, so the heat issue is no biggie. I checked them regularly and found no significant heat buildup, on any samples. The leg unit's crack is 1/2" and less. I'm confident all will be okay.

Sonny

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 1:33:23 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 9:30:26 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

That was a concern, whether epoxy would set up well on wood that is not dry enough.



This West System epoxy is specific for wet surfaces. Thanks to Lew and Robert for steering me to these epoxies.



I won't do anything special, about this rootball stock. If it splits badly, I'll just deal with what developes, as best I can. My customer (me) is cheap and non-paying, so to heck with perfection, for the moment. I've long worked with all sorts of salvaged and natural stock, with all sorts of defects. Defects look and function good enough, sometimes. Just another learning project, but it'll turn out good... I can feel it.



Last night, I got the trestle board tenons to fit right, in the leg mortises. Another milestone accomplished.



Yesterday, I brought the table top boards to Laf. Woodworks, to have them planed on one side. Planing fee $13. Replacement 24" planer blades, because they hit a freaking nail in one board, plus unistall/reinstall labor fee, I ain't saying, but I'm happy with the results. I didn't mind paying them for those damages. They've done excellent work for me in the past.



Sonny

Sounds great. Best of luck with it going forward.