I thought of this back on my last project, but hadn't tried it until
today. I'm making a simple template to rout an arc into the top and
bottom rails of my cookbook shelf units, but unlike the previous
project, this arc is concave.

To make a long story short, I used a saber saw to cut it to within
perhaps an eighth of the final line. Then I used a straight file to get
pretty close. But for the fine tuning I took a block of scrap (actually
chipboard, I think it may have been packing material) about 1" thick and
filed one *edge* into a very approximate curve. I used spray adhesive to
attach a strip of 60 grit sandpaper to the curved edge.

Now I had a block with a curved sanding edge, but a smooth bottom that
made a 90 degree angle with the curved edge. With the mdf template flat
on the bench, I was able to slide the block along the edge of the
template, concentrating on the areas that weren't quite right, but
keeping a square corner at all times.

This video is terrible (tip: don't rest the camera on the surface you're
working on, especially if it's just a board on saw horses) , but I think
it demonstrates the concept.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/14292707516/

If the usual rule holds, here's where I find out that I have once again
"discovered" a well-known technique. Anyone want to be the first to tell me?

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Greg Guarino wrote:
I thought of this back on my last project, but hadn't tried it until
today. I'm making a simple template to rout an arc into the top and
bottom rails of my cookbook shelf units, but unlike the previous
project, this arc is concave.

To make a long story short, I used a saber saw to cut it to within
perhaps an eighth of the final line. Then I used a straight file to get
pretty close. But for the fine tuning I took a block of scrap (actually
chipboard, I think it may have been packing material) about 1" thick and
filed one *edge* into a very approximate curve. I used spray adhesive to
attach a strip of 60 grit sandpaper to the curved edge.

Now I had a block with a curved sanding edge, but a smooth bottom that
made a 90 degree angle with the curved edge. With the mdf template flat
on the bench, I was able to slide the block along the edge of the
template, concentrating on the areas that weren't quite right, but
keeping a square corner at all times.

This video is terrible (tip: don't rest the camera on the surface you're
working on, especially if it's just a board on saw horses) , but I think
it demonstrates the concept.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/14292707516/

If the usual rule holds, here's where I find out that I have once again
"discovered" a well-known technique. Anyone want to be the first to tell me?

---
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http://www.avast.com

Looks like an ingenious solution.

--
 GW Ross 

 If you're going to walk on thin ice, 
 you might as well dance. 

On 5/31/2014 6:29 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I thought of this back on my last project, but hadn't tried it until
today. I'm making a simple template to rout an arc into the top and
bottom rails of my cookbook shelf units, but unlike the previous
project, this arc is concave.

This video is terrible (tip: don't rest the camera on the surface you're
working on, especially if it's just a board on saw horses) , but I think
it demonstrates the concept.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/14292707516/

If the usual rule holds, here's where I find out that I have once again
"discovered" a well-known technique. Anyone want to be the first to tell
me?


LOL ... yes, you have indeed reinvented the wheel for one method of
"fairing a curve".

But good thinking, and kudos nonetheless, as it shows an inventive,
problem solving mind ... the hallmark of a better than average craftsman.

The method you discovered, using a curved sanding block held against a
bench top, or flat surface (see below), in order to keep the curved edge
perpendicular to the work piece face when "fairing", is a commonly used
variation on the many different methods of fairing a curve ... and one
of the reasons why we keep a spray can of Elmers spray adhesive handy. .

The same principle even has its modern, tailed, descendants in the form
of table mounted "spindle" and "edge" sanders, both fixed and
oscillating, that use the same principle to fair curves: a table, and
the curved edge of a belt, and or sleeve, at right angles:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/600/832414.jpg

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/prod...rand=794531998

Same idea/method, except that you move the work piece against the
"table", instead of the sanding block in the manual method.

Something to add to your wish list: a "pattern maker's rasp", which is
another handy tool used in the various steps of making patterns/jigs to
reproduce curves:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod5188.aspx

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T
On 6/1/2014 12:09 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 5/31/2014 6:29 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I thought of this back on my last project, but hadn't tried it until
today. I'm making a simple template to rout an arc into the top and
bottom rails of my cookbook shelf units, but unlike the previous
project, this arc is concave.

This video is terrible (tip: don't rest the camera on the surface you're
working on, especially if it's just a board on saw horses) , but I think
it demonstrates the concept.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/14292707516/

If the usual rule holds, here's where I find out that I have once again
"discovered" a well-known technique. Anyone want to be the first to tell
me?


LOL ... yes, you have indeed reinvented the wheel for one method of
"fairing a curve".

Our Motto:
"We Reinvent the Wheel Every Day"


But good thinking, and kudos nonetheless, as it shows an inventive,
problem solving mind ... the hallmark of a better than average craftsman.

The method you discovered, using a curved sanding block held against a
bench top, or flat surface (see below), in order to keep the curved edge
perpendicular to the work piece face when "fairing", is a commonly used
variation on the many different methods of fairing a curve ... and one
of the reasons why we keep a spray can of Elmers spray adhesive handy. .

3M in my case.

The same principle even has its modern, tailed,

"Tailed" = "corded", I assume?

descendants in the form
of table mounted "spindle" and "edge" sanders, both fixed and
oscillating, that use the same principle to fair curves: a table, and
the curved edge of a belt, and or sleeve, at right angles:

That I was aware of. My Dad has an old belt sander somewhere, and he's
(sadly) long past using anything like that. I considered unearthing it
and perhaps even fastening it down somehow, but my (re-)invention seems
more controllable to me. The best thing about it is that it pretty much
ensures a smooth curve if you make some passes across the full length.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/600/832414.jpg

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/prod...rand=794531998

Same idea/method, except that you move the work piece against the
"table", instead of the sanding block in the manual method.

Something to add to your wish list: a "pattern maker's rasp", which is
another handy tool used in the various steps of making patterns/jigs to
reproduce curves:

On my list. This time I used a straight file to get pretty close to the
line. It was too fine, in addition to being straight. Luckily this is a
very gentle curve.


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"Greg Guarino" wrote in message


If the usual rule holds, here's where I find out that I have once again
"discovered" a well-known technique. Anyone want to be the first to tell
me?

I doubt I will be the first but yes, it is pretty standard.

Another standard way is to put a router on a pivot, adjust the radius as
desired and cut away. What you did is better if you are going to be making
a bunch of identical parts at various future times; for a one time thing, I
prefer the router way.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 6/1/2014 1:22 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

On my list. This time I used a straight file to get pretty close to the
line. It was too fine, in addition to being straight. Luckily this is a
very gentle curve.

While still a marketable skill in the manufacturing sector, "pattern
makers", and their unique tools, doing work exactly like you were doing
to make your "pattern" to use in your router jig, were once found in
every factory around the country.

The Nicholson #50 is my preferred pattern maker's rasp. There is a #49,
but the #50 makes a finer cut in both plywood and mdf, which is the
material I use most of the time for routing jigs.

They're pricey, but when you need the results they give there is nothing
else that will do the job as efficiently and effectively, and they are
particularly handy when your curve is not a two point arc.

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On 6/1/2014 1:22 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I considered unearthing it and perhaps even fastening it down somehow,
but my (re-)invention seems more controllable to me. The best thing
about it is that it pretty much ensures a smooth curve if you make some
passes across the full length.

Oddly enough, and on longer two point arc curves, like you would find on
the bottom aprons of wide/deep casework, you don't even need a curved
sanding block.

You can actually use a small rectangular sanding block, or a quarter
sheet sander, and with a little bit of practiced carefularity, fair a
curve nicely.

I often do this with my Festool DTS 400, with the pattern I'm working on
in a vice.

Often times just getting as close as you can fairing, without being too
anal, and depending upon the diameter of your router bearing, small
irregularities in your pattern won't necessarily show up in the pieces
being routed.

That said, I generally take my patterned curves to the OSS for that
final touch up.

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On 6/1/2014 4:03 PM, Swingman wrote:

The Nicholson #50 is my preferred pattern maker's rasp. There is a #49,
but the #50 makes a finer cut in both plywood and mdf, which is the
material I use most of the time for routing jigs.

Have you seen this?

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/s...ality%20Issues.

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On 6/1/2014 8:38 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 6/1/2014 4:03 PM, Swingman wrote:

The Nicholson #50 is my preferred pattern maker's rasp. There is a #49,
but the #50 makes a finer cut in both plywood and mdf, which is the
material I use most of the time for routing jigs.

Have you seen this?

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/s...ality%20Issues.

Too bad, all good things must come to pass. Glad I take good care of my
American made one.

Similar item as the older Nicholson's:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=70909&cat=

Also "Auriou", well know and respected French made rasps are expensive
but high very quality:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/auriou-rasps.aspx

There are also some German ones, pferd, or something like that?

Look at it this way, you pay for quality. If it costs $100 and it serves
you well for 30 years...

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Swingman wrote:


Look at it this way, you pay for quality. If it costs $100 and it
serves you well for 30 years...

Kinda the way a guy has to look at a wife...

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 2 Jun 2014 08:20:24 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
Look at it this way, you pay for quality. If it costs $100 and it
serves you well for 30 years...

Kinda the way a guy has to look at a wife...

Considering the relative ease getting a divorce these days, there's
quite a few men who don't feel that way ~ just as long as the prenup
is properly done.