In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass,
using something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side
of the sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part
of the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here,
with the curve cut in the drawer front). Obviously I shall have to
think about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in
doing this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. The tricky part is
working out how to cut the curves. Although I haven't measured
properly they look more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so
it looks like the thing to do will be to make some kind of template to
match, then follow this with a router, but how do I make the
template? Perhaps a big piece of stiffish paper carefully creased and
ripped until it sits against the shape properly, a bit of trial and
error cutting MDF templates from that until they make the right fit?
The horizontal curve can be a bit scruffy, as the lip of the sink will
cover most of it, but the vertical one will be on view, so I'd like to
get it right, at least within the margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:32:28 -0800, GMM wrote:

In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass, using
something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side of the
sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part of
the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here, with
the curve cut in the drawer front). Obviously I shall have to think
about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in doing
this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. The tricky part is working out
how to cut the curves. Although I haven't measured properly they look
more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so it looks like the
thing to do will be to make some kind of template to match, then follow
this with a router, but how do I make the template? Perhaps a big piece
of stiffish paper carefully creased and ripped until it sits against the
shape properly, a bit of trial and error cutting MDF templates from that
until they make the right fit? The horizontal curve can be a bit
scruffy, as the lip of the sink will cover most of it, but the vertical
one will be on view, so I'd like to get it right, at least within the
margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......

=========================================
Make a mock-up to hold the sink with a horizontal piece of timber across
the front and just touching the lowest part of the curve. Across the
horizontal timber draw vertical lines at 1cm intervals. Place the sink on
the mock-up and measure a vertical distance from the bottom of the sink to
the top of the horizontal at 1cm intervals, recording each measurement as
you go. Transfer the measurements to the vertical timber and join up the
measurements like a graph. Cut along the resulting 'graph' line.

If you try this let me know if it works because this is what I intend
doing sometime next week.

Cic.
--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

On 6 Nov, 18:25, Cicero wrote:
On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:32:28 -0800, GMM wrote:
In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. *The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to *use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass, using
something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side of the
sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. *Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part of
the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here, with
the curve cut in the drawer front). *Obviously I shall have to think
about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in doing
this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. *The tricky part is working out
how to cut the curves. *Although I haven't measured properly they look
more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so it looks like the
thing to do will be to make some kind of template to match, then follow
this with a router, but how do I make the template? *Perhaps a big piece
of stiffish paper carefully creased and ripped until it sits against the
shape properly, a bit of trial and error cutting MDF templates from that
until they make the right fit? The horizontal curve can be a bit
scruffy, as the lip of the sink will cover most of it, but the vertical
one will be on view, so I'd like to get it right, at least within the
margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......

=========================================
Make a mock-up to hold the sink with a horizontal piece of timber across
the front and just touching the lowest part of the curve. Across the
horizontal timber draw vertical lines at 1cm intervals. Place the sink on
the mock-up and measure a vertical distance from the bottom of the sink to
the top of the horizontal at 1cm intervals, recording each measurement as
you go. Transfer the measurements to the vertical timber and join up the
measurements like a graph. Cut along the resulting 'graph' line.

If you try this let me know if it works because this is what I intend
doing sometime next week.

Cic.
--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

Sounds like a good plan!

I hope to give it a go over the weekend (need to get a base unit and
carve it up so I know I'm in the right place first) and post my
outcome.
Cheers

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 18:25:02 GMT, Cicero
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:32:28 -0800, GMM wrote:

In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass, using
something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side of the
sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part of
the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here, with
the curve cut in the drawer front). Obviously I shall have to think
about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in doing
this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. The tricky part is working out
how to cut the curves. Although I haven't measured properly they look
more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so it looks like the
thing to do will be to make some kind of template to match, then follow
this with a router, but how do I make the template? Perhaps a big piece
of stiffish paper carefully creased and ripped until it sits against the
shape properly, a bit of trial and error cutting MDF templates from that
until they make the right fit? The horizontal curve can be a bit
scruffy, as the lip of the sink will cover most of it, but the vertical
one will be on view, so I'd like to get it right, at least within the
margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......

=========================================
Make a mock-up to hold the sink with a horizontal piece of timber across
the front and just touching the lowest part of the curve. Across the
horizontal timber draw vertical lines at 1cm intervals. Place the sink on
the mock-up and measure a vertical distance from the bottom of the sink to
the top of the horizontal at 1cm intervals, recording each measurement as
you go. Transfer the measurements to the vertical timber and join up the
measurements like a graph. Cut along the resulting 'graph' line.

If you try this let me know if it works because this is what I intend
doing sometime next week.

Cic.
Yes it does work. I did pretty much the same last year with a wash
basin, only difference was I transferred the measurements to a piece
of card first, cut that along the line and then used it to fine tune
the shape before transferring to the wood.

Depending on where the wood fits, and the slope of the basin
underside, you might need to make some allowance for the thickness of
the wood ie you want the outer, not inner face to fit well, and you
may have to bevel off the inner edge.

David

On 6 Nov, 19:20, DavidM wrote:
On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 18:25:02 GMT, Cicero
wrote:



On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:32:28 -0800, GMM wrote:

In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. *The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to *use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass, using
something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side of the
sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. *Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part of
the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here, with
the curve cut in the drawer front). *Obviously I shall have to think
about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in doing
this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. *The tricky part is working out
how to cut the curves. *Although I haven't measured properly they look
more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so it looks like the
thing to do will be to make some kind of template to match, then follow
this with a router, but how do I make the template? *Perhaps a big piece
of stiffish paper carefully creased and ripped until it sits against the
shape properly, a bit of trial and error cutting MDF templates from that
until they make the right fit? The horizontal curve can be a bit
scruffy, as the lip of the sink will cover most of it, but the vertical
one will be on view, so I'd like to get it right, at least within the
margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......

=========================================
Make a mock-up to hold the sink with a horizontal piece of timber across
the front and just touching the lowest part of the curve. Across the
horizontal timber draw vertical lines at 1cm intervals. Place the sink on
the mock-up and measure a vertical distance from the bottom of the sink to
the top of the horizontal at 1cm intervals, recording each measurement as
you go. Transfer the measurements to the vertical timber and join up the
measurements like a graph. Cut along the resulting 'graph' line.

If you try this let me know if it works because this is what I intend
doing sometime next week.

Cic.

Yes it does work. I did pretty much the same last year with a wash
basin, only difference was I transferred the measurements to a piece
of card first, cut that along the line and then used it to fine tune
the shape before transferring to the wood.

Depending on where the wood fits, and the slope of the basin
underside, you might need to make some allowance for the thickness of
the wood ie you want the outer, not inner face to fit well, and you
may have to bevel off the inner edge.

David


That's good to know!

I had thought about the bevel but, of course, it doesn't need to be as
tidy as the side that shows, so I was thinking that could be dealt
with either with something abrasive or with a shaped router bit.

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 19:20:10 +0000, DavidM wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 18:25:02 GMT, Cicero
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:32:28 -0800, GMM wrote:

In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass, using
something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side of the
sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part of
the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here, with
the curve cut in the drawer front). Obviously I shall have to think
about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in doing
this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. The tricky part is working out
how to cut the curves. Although I haven't measured properly they look
more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so it looks like the
thing to do will be to make some kind of template to match, then follow
this with a router, but how do I make the template? Perhaps a big piece
of stiffish paper carefully creased and ripped until it sits against the
shape properly, a bit of trial and error cutting MDF templates from that
until they make the right fit? The horizontal curve can be a bit
scruffy, as the lip of the sink will cover most of it, but the vertical
one will be on view, so I'd like to get it right, at least within the
margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......

=========================================
Make a mock-up to hold the sink with a horizontal piece of timber across
the front and just touching the lowest part of the curve. Across the
horizontal timber draw vertical lines at 1cm intervals. Place the sink on
the mock-up and measure a vertical distance from the bottom of the sink to
the top of the horizontal at 1cm intervals, recording each measurement as
you go. Transfer the measurements to the vertical timber and join up the
measurements like a graph. Cut along the resulting 'graph' line.

If you try this let me know if it works because this is what I intend
doing sometime next week.

Cic.
Yes it does work. I did pretty much the same last year with a wash
basin, only difference was I transferred the measurements to a piece
of card first, cut that along the line and then used it to fine tune
the shape before transferring to the wood.

Depending on where the wood fits, and the slope of the basin
underside, you might need to make some allowance for the thickness of
the wood ie you want the outer, not inner face to fit well, and you
may have to bevel off the inner edge.

David

=========================================
Thanks for that confirmation. I was thinking of a spokeshave for the
bevelling, but it will depend on how much 'doctoring' is needed.

Cic.

--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

DavidM wrote:
SNIP
Yes it does work. I did pretty much the same last year with a wash
basin, only difference was I transferred the measurements to a piece
of card first, cut that along the line and then used it to fine tune
the shape before transferring to the wood.

I've only done it once, but thats what I did - actually a scrap piece of
hardboard. It felt much safer than risking cutting the unit first go.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article
..com, GMM writes
In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass,
using something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side
of the sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part
of the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here,
with the curve cut in the drawer front). Obviously I shall have to
think about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in
doing this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. The tricky part is
working out how to cut the curves. Although I haven't measured
properly they look more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so
it looks like the thing to do will be to make some kind of template to
match, then follow this with a router, but how do I make the
template? Perhaps a big piece of stiffish paper carefully creased and
ripped until it sits against the shape properly, a bit of trial and
error cutting MDF templates from that until they make the right fit?
The horizontal curve can be a bit scruffy, as the lip of the sink will
cover most of it, but the vertical one will be on view, so I'd like to
get it right, at least within the margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......


Is this the sort of thing you were thinking of? http://www.m-and-
p.co.uk/wyke-road/cloaks.jpg

I did this a year or so ago for the last refurb I did. ISTR that all I
did was to cut the front top panel roughly to shape and then kept
sanding and checking until i seemed to fit OK.

Cheers

Martin
--
Martin Carroll

On 8 Nov, 20:50, Martin Carroll wrote:
In article
.com, GMM writes



In the final stages of refurbishing the downstairs bog (yup, it's been
on the go for ages!) and I want to fit an undersink cabinet. *The sink
in question is not too large (but then neither is the room) and I want
to *use it rather than change for a purpose built vanity unit for a
variety of good reasons, so I thought I might buy a 600mm kitchen base
cabinet and modify it (to make it shallower) to form the carcass,
using something yet to be decided as the worktop that sits each side
of the sink.
Cutting the right shape of (horizontal) curve would allow the sink to
sit partly embedded in the worktop as there's a flat 'lip' around the
edge of the sink. *Now, I'd rather make the cabinet more shallow than
the sink IFYSWIM, so I'll also need a vertical curve in the top part
of the cabinet (was thinking a matching door and drawer front here,
with the curve cut in the drawer front). *Obviously I shall have to
think about how to make up for the bracing that I'll cut through in
doing this, but that shouldn't be too tricky. *The tricky part is
working out how to cut the curves. *Although I haven't measured
properly they look more like arcs from ovals than arcs from circles so
it looks like the thing to do will be to make some kind of template to
match, then follow this with a router, but how do I make the
template? *Perhaps a big piece of stiffish paper carefully creased and
ripped until it sits against the shape properly, a bit of trial and
error cutting MDF templates from that until they make the right fit?
The horizontal curve can be a bit scruffy, as the lip of the sink will
cover most of it, but the vertical one will be on view, so I'd like to
get it right, at least within the margin of a neat silicone bead.

Somehow, I have a feeling that there's a proper way to do it, and
someone here might know what that is......

Is this the sort of thing you were thinking of? *http://www.m-and-
p.co.uk/wyke-road/cloaks.jpg

I did this a year or so ago for the last refurb I did. *ISTR that all I
did was to cut the front top panel roughly to shape and then kept
sanding and checking until i seemed to fit OK.

Cheers

Martin
--
Martin Carroll

That's exactly the sort of thing Martin, except not in a corner.
Looks like a great job...though I was rather hoping not to have to do
the 'keep on sanding and checking' part on the final product - mostly
because it's laminate and not real proper wood like you used. I was
thinking that I could make an mdf template to route it from in one go
(probably need to do the sand and check on the template though!). I
was due to try it this weekend, but life got in the way, as it does....