The side cabinets with drawers are built. they need a touch of sanding
and mint green paint.

The bottom supports that, will support the 8' long sewing table top, are
done and need to be attached, with bolts and inserts, to the drawer units.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542133823/



This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/



I would replace this drill kit in a heart beat should it ever need to be
replaced. Expensive but strong enough to keep my impact driver on the
shelf for the past 2 years and extremely versatile.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do
you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/


Where on the cabinets is the picture driving the screws? You know, what
part? It isn't apparent to me.
--
Jim in NC


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On 3/31/2014 1:43 PM, Leon wrote:
The side cabinets with drawers are built. they need a touch of sanding
and mint green paint.

The bottom supports that, will support the 8' long sewing table top, are
done and need to be attached, with bolts and inserts, to the drawer units.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542133823/



This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/



I would replace this drill kit in a heart beat should it ever need to be
replaced. Expensive but strong enough to keep my impact driver on the
shelf for the past 2 years and extremely versatile.

If I cut your skull open, will it say Festool under the top?
Or made in Germany?

--
Jeff

On 3/31/2014 2:17 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How
do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/


Where on the cabinets is the picture driving the screws? You know, what
part? It isn't apparent to me.


Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws were
driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

On 3/31/2014 3:04 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/31/2014 1:43 PM, Leon wrote:
The side cabinets with drawers are built. they need a touch of sanding
and mint green paint.

The bottom supports that, will support the 8' long sewing table top, are
done and need to be attached, with bolts and inserts, to the drawer
units.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542133823/



This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/



I would replace this drill kit in a heart beat should it ever need to be
replaced. Expensive but strong enough to keep my impact driver on the
shelf for the past 2 years and extremely versatile.

If I cut your skull open, will it say Festool under the top?
Or made in Germany?



I haven't looked in there lately. ;~)

On 3/31/2014 1:43 PM, Leon wrote:


This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/

For those of us who are Fes-poor:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...57628183501013

For your application I'd have needed a new square drive bit of the right
length. And my way is a two-hand operation. But the price is a better
fit for my frequency of use.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FZRr7Aod9GIANA

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On 3/31/2014 4:11 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 3/31/2014 1:43 PM, Leon wrote:


This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/

For those of us who are Fes-poor:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...57628183501013

For your application I'd have needed a new square drive bit of the right
length. And my way is a two-hand operation. But the price is a better
fit for my frequency of use.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FZRr7Aod9GIANA



There is a line when too short, is too short. ;~)

On 3/31/2014 4:51 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/31/2014 2:17 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How
do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/


Where on the cabinets is the picture driving the screws? You know, what
part? It isn't apparent to me.


Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws were
driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
much better understanding now..
looking good.

mdf under the bridge?

--
Jeff

On 3/31/2014 5:11 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 3/31/2014 1:43 PM, Leon wrote:


This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/

For those of us who are Fes-poor:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...57628183501013

For your application I'd have needed a new square drive bit of the right
length. And my way is a two-hand operation. But the price is a better
fit for my frequency of use.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FZRr7Aod9GIANA


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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com


Yepppppp. That's how I do it.. But I'm waiting to win the Festool
Lottery.. :-)

--
Jeff

On 3/31/2014 5:44 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/31/2014 4:51 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/31/2014 2:17 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How
do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/


Where on the cabinets is the picture driving the screws? You know, what
part? It isn't apparent to me.


Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws were
driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/
much better understanding now..
looking good.

mdf under the bridge?



No MDF. All poplar and paint grade maple plywood. Ah, the walnut cross
braces. Those came out of a warped scrap.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote

Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws were
driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Thanks. Yep, that makes it clear.!
--
Jim in NC

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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Leon wrote:


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542133823/



This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/



And just barely, at that!

--

-Mike-

On 4/1/2014 7:13 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542133823/



This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/


Like this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/



And just barely, at that!


Exactly! I used a slightly shorter bit and it did not reach far enough
to bottom out the screws. This slightly longer bit insured me, with he
clutch engagement, that the screws were going in all the way however I
did have to start slowly and the with the engagement starting out at a
slight angle.

On 4/1/2014 7:10 AM, Morgans wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote

Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws
were driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Thanks. Yep, that makes it clear.!


I think next time I will try to design in at least 6" of clearance. ;~)

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2014 7:10 AM, Morgans wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote

Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws
were driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Thanks. Yep, that makes it clear.!


I think next time I will try to design in at least 6" of clearance. ;~)
\
Either that, or put the screws in the edges of the board from the top and
the bottom. Two screws would be as strong as three because they are
toenails in opposition. As you did it, I would put the middle screw in the
other side to get the toenail effect, also. Not that it is probably
particularly needed for strength, though.
--
Jim in NC


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Fighting more medical problems with Mom so I am getting here less, not more as we talked about at Christmas with Karl. But it is a real treat to see your new projects when I get here and have a chance to read/see them.

As always, great work. I know custom cabinet makers that don't turn out new projects with the frequency you do, and certainly their work (generally speaking) isn't as nice. One thing for sure, they don't turn out anything close to the variety of building styles and projects that you tackle.

Keep up the good work and thanks for posting.

Robert

On 4/1/2014 10:12 AM, wrote:
Fighting more medical problems with Mom so I am getting here less, not more as we talked about at Christmas with Karl. But it is a real treat to see your new projects when I get here and have a chance to read/see them.

As always, great work. I know custom cabinet makers that don't turn out new projects with the frequency you do, and certainly their work (generally speaking) isn't as nice. One thing for sure, they don't turn out anything close to the variety of building styles and projects that you tackle.

Keep up the good work and thanks for posting.

Robert



Sorry to hear about your mom, Robert. I am going through this with my
dad but he is finally over the hump, at least for the past 2 weeks, he
has lost about 13 of the 40 lbs that he gained since Christmas.

Thank you once again for the kind words and compliments.

Hope you got my explanation of the prevention of bowing walnut. I think
the key was Kiln Dried. LOL.

"Morgans" wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 4/1/2014 7:10 AM, Morgans wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote

Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws
were driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Thanks. Yep, that makes it clear.!


I think next time I will try to design in at least 6" of clearance. ;~)
\
Either that, or put the screws in the edges of the board from the top and
the bottom. Two screws would be as strong as three because they are
toenails in opposition. As you did it, I would put the middle screw in
the other side to get the toenail effect, also. Not that it is probably
particularly needed for strength, though.

The sole purpose of those walnut pieces is to insure uniform width of the
rails, that they are attached to, and to prevent those rails from twisting.
So strength is not a big factor here. I did use two equal length temp.
Spacers on the back sides to dictate location, shown in the previous
pictures.