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A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
complete.

The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.

So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/


Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
the surface or bottom of the panels.

Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
16.5" wide, 24" long


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
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On 2/6/2014 7:03 PM, Leon wrote:

A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
complete.

The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.

So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/


Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
the surface or bottom of the panels.

Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
16.5" wide, 24" long


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/


Word! ... you be a badass mofo woodworker, dog! LOL

heard on a recent Stupid Bowl commercial that failed the test

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Leon wrote:
A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio
cabinets that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are
just about complete.

The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.

So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding
the bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/



God - I love freakin' walnut!

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On 2/6/2014 8:03 PM, Leon wrote:
A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
complete.

The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.

So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/


Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
the surface or bottom of the panels.

Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
16.5" wide, 24" long


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/


Not seeing what you're solving with that last image.
But the screw holes are very nice, if that is what the Domnio was used for.

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On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 19:03:49 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
16.5" wide, 24" long
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/


That's pretty neat. You just love your Domino don't you? I'll bet in
your free time, you sit around thinking up new uses for your Domino.
Pinning drawer sides. Making expansion slots. What's next?

Better buy a second Domino to keep on hand. If your present Domino
dies on you, you're going to have a meltdown.

I noticed you've got a stop rule in that expansion slot picture. I've
got one too. It's pretty handy isn't it?


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On 2/6/2014 7:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/6/2014 8:03 PM, Leon wrote:
A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
complete.

The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.

So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/


Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
the surface or bottom of the panels.

Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
16.5" wide, 24" long


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/


Not seeing what you're solving with that last image.
But the screw holes are very nice, if that is what the Domnio was used for.



Yes that was what the Domino was used for. The screws will be anchored
into the edge of the walnut rails. The screws will stay stationary.
The walnut panel will be attached to those rails via the screws that you
see, The slotted holes will allow the panels to expand and contract.
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On 2/6/2014 8:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 19:03:49 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
16.5" wide, 24" long
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/

That's pretty neat. You just love your Domino don't you?


LOL Why yes, yes I do.


I'll bet in
your free time, you sit around thinking up new uses for your Domino.
Pinning drawer sides. Making expansion slots. What's next?


Actually I plan to to things in a certain way and the Domino just
happens to be the answer. I could have done this with a router but that
would have been complicated.


Better buy a second Domino to keep on hand. If your present Domino
dies on you, you're going to have a meltdown.


A dealer is close enough. ;~)


I noticed you've got a stop rule in that expansion slot picture. I've
got one too. It's pretty handy isn't it?


Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598

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On 2/6/2014 7:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio
cabinets that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are
just about complete.

The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.

So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding
the bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/



God - I love freakin' walnut!



I like walnut for many reasons, hate it for one, and then miffed about
one feature.

It is beautiful, it is soft compared to oak, it is light weight compared
to oak, and you absolutely don't have to satin it.

In SE Texas the stuff is expensive, more than double the price of white oak.

And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal with
poor visibility.
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

*snip*


And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
with poor visibility.


Have you tried using a colored pencil? I'm just curious if that'll help
any.

Last time I worked with Walnut, I used chalk for the initial layout and
used more light to see the pencil marks.

Puckdropper
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Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

*snip*


And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
with poor visibility.


Have you tried using a colored pencil? I'm just curious if that'll help
any.

Last time I worked with Walnut, I used chalk for the initial layout and
used more light to see the pencil marks.

Puckdropper


Look at the picture with the slots. I used a yellow pencil, I had to
sharpen it 4 times. I'm wondering if the Pica pencils that LV sells would
last longer.


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On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 22:07:32 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
Actually I plan to to things in a certain way and the Domino just
happens to be the answer. I could have done this with a router but that
would have been complicated.


The through holes appear to be domino sized. How did you make the
wider insets for the screw heads? Were they two adjacent Domino
mortises?
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598


I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.

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On 2/7/2014 2:47 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 22:07:32 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
Actually I plan to to things in a certain way and the Domino just
happens to be the answer. I could have done this with a router but that
would have been complicated.


The through holes appear to be domino sized. How did you make the
wider insets for the screw heads? Were they two adjacent Domino
mortises?



The through holes are exact width 5mm mortises, directly on top, 10mm
exact width, plunged about 3/16" The domino was placed up and down,
sitting on its face, fence folded up. The bottom of the Domino was
indexed against a, clamped in place, strait edge. I used two pieces of
orange tape with a measured mark on each to align the straight edge both
for the 5mm and 10mm cuts. I made all of the 5mm mortises first.
Measurements not being critical I decided that replacing the fence for
each operation was probably less trouble than changing the bit out 16
times for both ends of of all 4 panels.
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On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598


I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.


These fixed distance measuring devices really speed layouts up. Wait
till you get the hang of using the story stick. ;~)
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On 2/6/2014 11:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

*snip*


And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
with poor visibility.


Have you tried using a colored pencil? I'm just curious if that'll help
any.

Last time I worked with Walnut, I used chalk for the initial layout and
used more light to see the pencil marks.

Puckdropper

That's why I started using a welder's soapstone pencil.
Chalk is hard to get out of the pores. I tried the crayon's (lumber) but
they are also a pain to get off. Acetone sought of works, but not big on
it. I use them for rough work.

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On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598


I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.


The one on the left:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...0 21174570450

Who makes that one?

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On 2/7/2014 9:23 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598


I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.


These fixed distance measuring devices really speed layouts up. Wait
till you get the hang of using the story stick. ;~)

But doesn't my combo square do the same thing?
I filed a round in the rule's ends recess, so I can keep a pencil for
layouts.

Or I can use the end to use a marking knife on the flat.

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On 2/7/2014 8:43 AM, woodchucker wrote:

But doesn't my combo square do the same thing?


Pretty much, but not nearly as handy or as quick, IME.

The width of the blade makes it easier to quickly/squarely align parts a
certain distance from an edge in one motion than with a combo square, a
frequent task in cabinet making ... like quickly squaring up Euro hinges
in a 35mm hole when installing cabinet doors.

It also fits in an apron pocket, where I can jealously guard it onsite.

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"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in

And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal with
poor visibility.


I took a welding class once. The instructor was a big advocate of white
pencils. It showed up well on the metal and was much more precise than
other more conventional markers for metal. Since I knew a number of artists
and picked up art supplies for them from time to time, I just grabbed a
bunch of white pencils the next time I was at the art store.

You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to marker
for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure enough in your
masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have any problem buying
some white pencils.

Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white pencils for
you! ;-)

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On 2/7/14, 10:17 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:

You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to
marker for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure
enough in your masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have
any problem buying some white pencils.

Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white
pencils for you! ;-)


I'm in the art store, regularly. For woodworking, they have those great
plastic triangles that are dead-nuts-on square for setting up blades and
fences. The aforementioned white pencils and drafting supplies are
there, too.

For music, they have great sketch pads, mechanical pencils, colored
pencils & markers, and different erasers I use for charting songs. They
also have an erasable permanent (oxymoron!) fine tipped marker I use for
making changes to a chart after it's been slipped inside a 3-ringed
plastic page protector.


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On 2/7/2014 10:29 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/7/14, 10:17 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:

You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to
marker for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure
enough in your masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have
any problem buying some white pencils.

Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white
pencils for you! ;-)


I'm in the art store, regularly. For woodworking, they have those great
plastic triangles that are dead-nuts-on square for setting up blades and
fences. The aforementioned white pencils and drafting supplies are
there, too.

For music, they have great sketch pads, mechanical pencils, colored
pencils & markers, and different erasers I use for charting songs. They
also have an erasable permanent (oxymoron!) fine tipped marker I use for
making changes to a chart after it's been slipped inside a 3-ringed
plastic page protector.


No kidding ... the stuff in Texas Art Supply (next to the studio in
Houston) will keep me entertained, and spending, much longer than a
visit to WoodCraft or Rockler will.

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On 2/7/2014 10:17 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in

And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
with poor visibility.


I took a welding class once. The instructor was a big advocate of white
pencils. It showed up well on the metal and was much more precise than
other more conventional markers for metal. Since I knew a number of
artists and picked up art supplies for them from time to time, I just
grabbed a bunch of white pencils the next time I was at the art store.

You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to
marker for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure enough
in your masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have any
problem buying some white pencils.

Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white pencils
for you! ;-)



I borrowed her yellow pencil. LOL

Unfortunately her yellow dulled so quickly and so much that the 4
sharpenings that I gave them subtracted at least 2" from its length.

Do the white pencils have a harder material?


I was wondering if these with the yellow or white leads might hold up
better..

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121
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On 2/7/2014 8:43 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/7/2014 9:23 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598



I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.


These fixed distance measuring devices really speed layouts up. Wait
till you get the hang of using the story stick. ;~)

But doesn't my combo square do the same thing?
I filed a round in the rule's ends recess, so I can keep a pencil for
layouts.


Yes it can but with the Veritas you get a longer surface to mark on and
it is not as cumbersom and the rule is typically not as precise.




Or I can use the end to use a marking knife on the flat.


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On 2/7/2014 8:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598


I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.


The one on the left:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...0 21174570450


Who makes that one?



Not sure who makes'm but this is where I get'm

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...07&cat=1,43513
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"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote

Do the white pencils have a harder material?

I used them on metal. The harder they are, the more of an impression they
make on soft materials. Doesn't matter on metal. but may be a consideration
on soft woods.


I was wondering if these with the yellow or white leads might hold up
better..

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121


Damn! Does Rob Lee make a product for EVERYTHING??

They look nice. I bet they would work very well. Just pony up the money
and buy special Veritas marker and mechanical pencils.

What next? Veritas underwear?



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On Fri, 07 Feb 2014 08:21:10 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
The through holes are exact width 5mm mortises, directly on top, 10mm
exact width, plunged about 3/16" .


Hmmm. I haven't used my 10mm Domino bit yet. Your 10mm bit slot looked
bigger than I thought it would have looked.

One other question. I haven't tried a through hole with the Domino
yet. Do you use a backer board when doing a Domino through hole?
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Lee Michaels wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote

Do the white pencils have a harder material?

I used them on metal. The harder they are, the more of an impression
they make on soft materials. Doesn't matter on metal. but may be a
consideration on soft woods.


Be aware, some colored pencils are wax-based and some are oil-based.
Frankly I'm surprised either hold up very well under heat--I would
probably use an awl.





I was wondering if these with the yellow or white leads might hold up
better..

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121


Damn! Does Rob Lee make a product for EVERYTHING??

They look nice. I bet they would work very well. Just pony up the
money and buy special Veritas marker and mechanical pencils.

What next? Veritas underwear?


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On 2/7/2014 6:14 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:

Not sure who makes'm but this is where I get'm

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...07&cat=1,43513


Other than the vernier, I think my combo square accomplishes
everything the stop rule can. What am I missing here?


Probably nothing. How does your combination square compare in price?
Is you square all satin chrome steel?

These stop rules operate very smoothly and have a good feel. I find my
combination squares a bit cumbersome.


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Default More Actual Woodworking and another use for the Domino

On Fri, 07 Feb 2014 18:08:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
You know, the 10 mm slot is twice as wide as the 5mm slot. ;~)
And of course the slot is going to be 5mm wider/longer.


Yup. I think it just looked much larger with the 5mm slot inside it.
To me anyway, it was an optical illusion.
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Default More Actual Woodworking and another use for the Domino

On 2/7/14 7:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...36,42945,32598


I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.


The one on the left:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...0 21174570450


Who makes that one?


I got mine from LV when they had an 'introductory' offer a number of
years past. One end has a slightly funky grind that isn't exactly square
so I have to be careful.

I agree with the comment that whatever gets used, it needs to fit in a
pocket. Anything bigger usually gets set down on the table saw and
eventually hits the concrete when I move the fence to 'clear the work
space'.
Measuring/marking equipment rarely survives a trip to the concrete floor...
-BR


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Default More Actual Woodworking and another use for the Domino

On 2/10/2014 9:43 AM, Larry Kraus wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/7/2014 6:14 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:

Not sure who makes'm but this is where I get'm

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...07&cat=1,43513

Other than the vernier, I think my combo square accomplishes
everything the stop rule can. What am I missing here?


Probably nothing. How does your combination square compare in price?
Is you square all satin chrome steel?

These stop rules operate very smoothly and have a good feel. I find my
combination squares a bit cumbersome.


OK. No big differences, then. I've several squares, Starretts and a
Mitutoyo, and one Empire, in 4", 6", 12" (3), and 24" sizes, all but
two have satin chrome rules. Prices at a local antiques consignment
shop ranged from $15 (6" Mitutoyo) to $60 for the 12" Starrett with
protractor and center heads. The 30 year old 12" Empire ($9?) gets the
most use for general construction and household purposes since it is
accurate and I do not worry about dropping it. The better squares are
used for layout and machine setups.



Yeah. all in what you prefer. Much better made than the "cheap" combo
squares for the purpose that they are designed.

If my combo squares were Starretts I probably would not have gotten these.
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