I used some Deft rattle can semi-gloss on two turned bowls. Three light coats with 30 minutes drying time between coats, per the instructions on the can. The bowls are not quite as smooth as they were before spraying. I have some micromesh pads, equivalent to 1000 grit. Question: if I give the bowls a light sanding with the micromesh am I going to muck up my lacquer work?

BTW -- first time I've used spray lacquer and I sure like the look!!

Larry

Gramps' shop wrote:
I used some Deft rattle can semi-gloss on two turned bowls. Three
light coats with 30 minutes drying time between coats, per the
instructions on the can. The bowls are not quite as smooth as they
were before spraying. I have some micromesh pads, equivalent to 1000
grit. Question: if I give the bowls a light sanding with the
micromesh am I going to muck up my lacquer work?

BTW -- first time I've used spray lacquer and I sure like the look!!


Not at all Larry. Just do a complete job and get the entire surface scuffed
down evenly. Once that is done, hit it with rubbing (buffing) compound to
bring it back to the sheen you desire. You can get the rubbing compound at
any automotive store.

--

-Mike-

On 12/31/2013 2:48 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I used some Deft rattle can semi-gloss on two turned bowls. Three light coats with 30 minutes drying time between coats, per the instructions on the can. The bowls are not quite as smooth as they were before spraying. I have some micromesh pads, equivalent to 1000 grit. Question: if I give the bowls a light sanding with the micromesh am I going to muck up my lacquer work?

BTW -- first time I've used spray lacquer and I sure like the look!!

Larry


So here's the thing, lacquer is fast drying, but it really requires time
to harden. The longer the better, in a month it is really up to full
hardness. It gasses off for about that long.


If you start sanding now, you will end up with clogged sandpaper.
You can wet sand it use some dish detergent in the water to break the
water tension, and clear the swarf away., but for the best outcome wait
a week, or more.

Then sand it. You used semi gloss which I never use. I always use
gloss, then sand or use steel wool to get the look that I want. If I
want a real mat look, I might do a dry spray... ontop of the wetter coats.

if it is not really bad, you can use steel wool or scotch brite pads,
and go through the grits.




--
Jeff

On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 4:16:05 PM UTC-6, Mike Marlow wrote:
Gramps' shop wrote:
Just do a complete job and get the entire surface scuffed

down evenly. Once that is done, hit it with rubbing (buffing) compound to

bring it back to the sheen you desire. You can get the rubbing compound at

any automotive store.

What Mike said. Sand carefully, and when using a lathe, I use scotch brite pads lubricated with mineral spirits and the lightest touch possible. It is too hard to get sandpaper to conform to a round surface (remember, this is a lathe piece so it will be round, not a desk or table top) and when it doesn't, you will get witness lines to show your irregular sanding.

Do not use water on your lathe when sanding as it will evaporate well before it does any good as a lubricant. Do not use detergent as it will heat on the lathe and leave residue which will foul your finish. No water, no detergent.

Since this is a variant of the traditional french polish, follow the manufacturer's advice. Go ahead an load your finish material on the piece, but do not start sanding (this initial evening of the finish material surface is actually called "cutting down" the finish) for about 10 to 14 days. Most manufacturers want that, but if you live in a warm dry environment or at least work in one, you can get by with 7 full days of drying. This depends of course on how much material you applied, but with just a couple of coats you should be fine with a week or so. If you are worried about it, take your project inside the house if you can and let it cure out there.

Sand until the surface is buttery smooth at the lowest speed your lathe will spin. Mike is spot on, here. Get the compound you need and you can easily buff on a lathe to a satin all the way to mirror finish without removing your piece from the lathe.

Once again, remember if you are finishing under power on the lathe to use a very light touch. If you have the piece off the lathe just be patient. Deft is good stuff and I use it myself to finish small projects because it is a slow drying lacquer that makes it easy to use and turn out a good finish.

Robert