So... the discourse on glues has become quite intriguing to me. Karl's
comments introduced me to things/techniques that I had no knowledge of, and
damn... whenever that kind of thing happens...

So - how about a little dialog about what people use, and how they use it.
Here's some questions that are popping into my mind as I investigate this
stuff...

1 - what are the factors that will determine if you use PVA or Urea Resin
glue? I understand the stress part, but are there other considerations that
help you make that decision?

2- what do people use... powder with water mix, or powder with catalyst?
Reasons? Comments?

3 - how do people apply the stuff - brush, roller, whatever?

4 - any other comments and/or interesting things for people to know.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote:
So... the discourse on glues has become quite intriguing to me. Karl's
comments introduced me to things/techniques that I had no knowledge of, and
damn... whenever that kind of thing happens...

So - how about a little dialog about what people use, and how they use it.
Here's some questions that are popping into my mind as I investigate this
stuff...

1 - what are the factors that will determine if you use PVA or Urea Resin
glue? I understand the stress part, but are there other considerations that
help you make that decision?

If you have a complicated glue up and need an longer than average set time
go with the UR..


2- what do people use... powder with water mix, or powder with catalyst?
Reasons? Comments?


Typically just water assuming this question is pointed to the UR glue. A
catalyst would sorta defeat the advantage of the long set time that this
glue offers.


3 - how do people apply the stuff - brush, roller, whatever?

I always used a brush, one you would throw away. A roller for a large
surface.




4 - any other comments and/or interesting things for people to know.

On Wednesday, 4 December 2013 03:54:50 UTC, Mike Marlow wrote:

4 - any other comments and/or interesting things for people to know.

Dunno if its of any use, but the bloke at woodgears.ca has a few videos on glue pro's & con's and different glues in certain joints, etc. worth a watch for his Heath Robinson force-measuring contraption if nothing else!

1 - what are the factors that will determine if you use PVA or Urea Resin

glue? I understand the stress part, but are there other considerations that

help you make that decision?

I've only used it for bent lamination. Has better open time and sets hard which hold the lams in shape better.

On Monday, December 9, 2013 9:39:08 AM UTC-8, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
1 - what are the factors that will determine if you use PVA or Urea Resin



glue? I understand the stress part, but are there other considerations that



help you make that decision?



I've only used it for bent lamination. Has better open time and sets hard which hold the lams in shape better.

Urea that is.

On 12/3/2013 7:54 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
So... the discourse on glues has become quite intriguing to me. Karl's
comments introduced me to things/techniques that I had no knowledge of, and
damn... whenever that kind of thing happens...

So - how about a little dialog about what people use, and how they use it.
Here's some questions that are popping into my mind as I investigate this
stuff...

1 - what are the factors that will determine if you use PVA or Urea Resin
glue? I understand the stress part, but are there other considerations that
help you make that decision?

2- what do people use... powder with water mix, or powder with catalyst?
Reasons? Comments?

3 - how do people apply the stuff - brush, roller, whatever?

4 - any other comments and/or interesting things for people to know.

Some good general advice can be had at http://www.thistothat.com/.
mahalo,
jo4hn

Do you have a favorite brand/product?

Don't recall. Been too long since I last did any laminating. It was just some stuff my buddy had in his shop and suggested I use. I read up on it and he was right. I only used it for the structural part of some aprons on a oval table set. I used some sort of contact cement for the veneer which was a bit of a mistake but it all worked out in the end.

On Monday, 9 December 2013 21:12:28 UTC, Edward A. Falk wrote:

Major take-aways: Using too much glue is messy, but does not
weaken the joint. Squeeze-out from too much clamping only reduces
the strength of the joint by about 10%.

Someone correct me if I'm remembering wrong. I should probably
go back and re-watch them.


One which stuck: Gorilla glue is useless for gap filling in a joint. I'm
unsure if that particular brand is available over here, but from the
crusty bits shown in the video it looks like some sort of urethane
glue. Actually, it looked to me like expanding builders' foam. Probably
something very similar.

On 12/10/13, 12:33 PM, wrote:
On Monday, 9 December 2013 21:12:28 UTC, Edward A. Falk wrote:

Major take-aways: Using too much glue is messy, but does not
weaken the joint. Squeeze-out from too much clamping only reduces
the strength of the joint by about 10%.

Someone correct me if I'm remembering wrong. I should probably
go back and re-watch them.


One which stuck: Gorilla glue is useless for gap filling in a joint. I'm
unsure if that particular brand is available over here, but from the
crusty bits shown in the video it looks like some sort of urethane
glue. Actually, it looked to me like expanding builders' foam. Probably
something very similar.


I'm fairly certain it's the same exact stuff with a different consistency.

Just for those listening in, polyurethane glue is NOT strong. The appeal
of Gorilla Glue and similar poly glues is their ability to adhere many
different materials to one another and that its fairly weatherproof.
Plain old wood glue is much, much stronger.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

wrote:


One which stuck: Gorilla glue is useless for gap filling in a
joint. I'm
unsure if that particular brand is available over here, but from
the
crusty bits shown in the video it looks like some sort of urethane
glue. Actually, it looked to me like expanding builders' foam.
Probably
something very similar.


I'm fairly certain it's the same exact stuff with a different
consistency.
----------------------------------------------------------

"-MIKE-" wrote:

Just for those listening in, polyurethane glue is NOT strong. The
appeal
of Gorilla Glue and similar poly glues is their ability to adhere
many
different materials to one another and that its fairly weatherproof.
Plain old wood glue is much, much stronger.
-------------------------------------------------
Gorilla glue:

Strictly under peckered and over priced.

If TiteBond II doesn't do the job, use epoxy.

Lew





Lew

On 12/10/13, 1:48 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
wrote:


One which stuck: Gorilla glue is useless for gap filling in a
joint. I'm
unsure if that particular brand is available over here, but from
the
crusty bits shown in the video it looks like some sort of urethane
glue. Actually, it looked to me like expanding builders' foam.
Probably
something very similar.


I'm fairly certain it's the same exact stuff with a different
consistency.
----------------------------------------------------------

"-MIKE-" wrote:

Just for those listening in, polyurethane glue is NOT strong. The
appeal
of Gorilla Glue and similar poly glues is their ability to adhere
many
different materials to one another and that its fairly weatherproof.
Plain old wood glue is much, much stronger.
-------------------------------------------------
Gorilla glue:

Strictly under peckered and over priced.

If TiteBond II doesn't do the job, use epoxy.

Lew


It has its place. Attaching metal to plastic for an outdoor sign, yeah
it's great.
But it was marketed for strength and in the context of a woodworkers'
group, it's indeed a joke.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply