My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is
dedicated to her quilt making.

We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the
new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing
machine lower cabinets. For those not familiar the long arm sewing
machine has a foot print of approximately 48" x 132". I have designed
two lower cabinets, each 60" long for this large tool to set on. There
will be a 12" gap between the two cabinets. The base of the long arm
machine base is 16" long front to back and has arms that support the
quilt front, back, and center padding extend approximately 30" total
front and back. Anyway the cabinets are going to be 22.5" deep, 30"
tall and 60" long. The machine is currently setting on top of a 72" and
a 60" fold up lunch room style tables.

I picked up materials on Thursday last week and this morning began the
glue up of the carcases. Once again I am using my double face frame
construction with no screws or nails, all dado's, lap joints, domino
floating tenons, and glue construction for this stage.

The cabinets will have a maple plywood body with poplar for the hard
wood parts. The exterior will be painted a light mint green color with
oil based alkyd paint. Interior coated with varnish.

This first picture shows the 5 dado's in the back face frame. The
cabinet bottom outer sides and inner panels will engage the face frame
via those dado's.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


This picture shows the bottom of the cabinet sitting in the back face
frame bottom rail and one of the end panels leaning up against it. The
end panels engage the face frame outer stile dado and the bottom panel
engages the side panel dado.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next is basically the same with both outer panels engaged with the back
face frame and outer bottom panel. You can see where the inner panels
will engage the bottom panel dado's and the back face frame inner stile
dado's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next a more close up view

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next, a shot of all panels and the back face frame. There are 9 dado's
that have been filled at this point.
The face frames were glued up with out the aid of the panels and their
dado's. Often I will dry fit the panels and assemble and glue the face
frames on top of the edges of the panels to insure accurate placement of
the center stiles. I used waxed paper between the dry fit panels and
the face frame to keep them from sticking together from the glue squeeze
out. In this case and on the TV console project I took a leap of faith
and assembled the face frames and the panels according to my drawings.
Basically 14 dado's and 7 different sections have to come together
perfectly on 7 different planes. Unfortunately with using this method a
mistake can mean the need to rebuild the face frames and or panel
sections if the fit is not perfect on the dry fit. The up side is that
if every thing is perfect, the assembly goes much more quickly. This is
the 20th and 21st cabinets that I have built with the front and back
face frame method in the past 3 years and so far all has gone well with
out a problem. I may have said this before, ;!), I could not do this as
quickly or as accurately as I do with out the aid of Sketchup and the
Cutlist 4.x component import program that accurately takes the drawings
measurements of it's components and imports them into CutList Plus.
This import program eliminates the possibility of entering component
data incorrectly into CutList Plus.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next the complete assembly with the "front face frame added to the top
of the assembly. FWIW the back face frame and front face frame are not
identical, because of the lap and floating tennon joinery I use on the
back face frame the back rails and inner stiles are 1" longer than the
ones on the front. This just adds to the complexity of the assembly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Lastly, inside of one of the compartments as seen from the top looking
down to the bottom. All joints are dadoed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

On 11/12/2013 11:43 AM, Leon wrote:
My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is
dedicated to her quilt making.

We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the
new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing
machine lower cabinets. For those not familiar the long arm sewing
machine has a foot print of approximately 48" x 132". I have designed
two lower cabinets, each 60" long for this large tool to set on. There
will be a 12" gap between the two cabinets. The base of the long arm
machine base is 16" long front to back and has arms that support the
quilt front, back, and center padding extend approximately 30" total
front and back. Anyway the cabinets are going to be 22.5" deep, 30"
tall and 60" long. The machine is currently setting on top of a 72" and
a 60" fold up lunch room style tables.

I picked up materials on Thursday last week and this morning began the
glue up of the carcases. Once again I am using my double face frame
construction with no screws or nails, all dado's, lap joints, domino
floating tenons, and glue construction for this stage.

The cabinets will have a maple plywood body with poplar for the hard
wood parts. The exterior will be painted a light mint green color with
oil based alkyd paint. Interior coated with varnish.

This first picture shows the 5 dado's in the back face frame. The
cabinet bottom outer sides and inner panels will engage the face frame
via those dado's.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


This picture shows the bottom of the cabinet sitting in the back face
frame bottom rail and one of the end panels leaning up against it. The
end panels engage the face frame outer stile dado and the bottom panel
engages the side panel dado.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next is basically the same with both outer panels engaged with the back
face frame and outer bottom panel. You can see where the inner panels
will engage the bottom panel dado's and the back face frame inner stile
dado's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next a more close up view

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next, a shot of all panels and the back face frame. There are 9 dado's
that have been filled at this point.
The face frames were glued up with out the aid of the panels and their
dado's. Often I will dry fit the panels and assemble and glue the face
frames on top of the edges of the panels to insure accurate placement of
the center stiles. I used waxed paper between the dry fit panels and
the face frame to keep them from sticking together from the glue squeeze
out. In this case and on the TV console project I took a leap of faith
and assembled the face frames and the panels according to my drawings.
Basically 14 dado's and 7 different sections have to come together
perfectly on 7 different planes. Unfortunately with using this method a
mistake can mean the need to rebuild the face frames and or panel
sections if the fit is not perfect on the dry fit. The up side is that
if every thing is perfect, the assembly goes much more quickly. This is
the 20th and 21st cabinets that I have built with the front and back
face frame method in the past 3 years and so far all has gone well with
out a problem. I may have said this before, ;!), I could not do this as
quickly or as accurately as I do with out the aid of Sketchup and the
Cutlist 4.x component import program that accurately takes the drawings
measurements of it's components and imports them into CutList Plus. This
import program eliminates the possibility of entering component data
incorrectly into CutList Plus.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next the complete assembly with the "front face frame added to the top
of the assembly. FWIW the back face frame and front face frame are not
identical, because of the lap and floating tennon joinery I use on the
back face frame the back rails and inner stiles are 1" longer than the
ones on the front. This just adds to the complexity of the assembly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Lastly, inside of one of the compartments as seen from the top looking
down to the bottom. All joints are dadoed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Looking good, damned good, as usual!


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/12/2013 2:59 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/12/2013 11:43 AM, Leon wrote:
My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is
dedicated to her quilt making.

We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the
new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing
machine lower cabinets. For those not familiar the long arm sewing
machine has a foot print of approximately 48" x 132". I have designed
two lower cabinets, each 60" long for this large tool to set on. There
will be a 12" gap between the two cabinets. The base of the long arm
machine base is 16" long front to back and has arms that support the
quilt front, back, and center padding extend approximately 30" total
front and back. Anyway the cabinets are going to be 22.5" deep, 30"
tall and 60" long. The machine is currently setting on top of a 72" and
a 60" fold up lunch room style tables.

I picked up materials on Thursday last week and this morning began the
glue up of the carcases. Once again I am using my double face frame
construction with no screws or nails, all dado's, lap joints, domino
floating tenons, and glue construction for this stage.

The cabinets will have a maple plywood body with poplar for the hard
wood parts. The exterior will be painted a light mint green color with
oil based alkyd paint. Interior coated with varnish.

This first picture shows the 5 dado's in the back face frame. The
cabinet bottom outer sides and inner panels will engage the face frame
via those dado's.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


This picture shows the bottom of the cabinet sitting in the back face
frame bottom rail and one of the end panels leaning up against it. The
end panels engage the face frame outer stile dado and the bottom panel
engages the side panel dado.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next is basically the same with both outer panels engaged with the back
face frame and outer bottom panel. You can see where the inner panels
will engage the bottom panel dado's and the back face frame inner stile
dado's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next a more close up view

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next, a shot of all panels and the back face frame. There are 9 dado's
that have been filled at this point.
The face frames were glued up with out the aid of the panels and their
dado's. Often I will dry fit the panels and assemble and glue the face
frames on top of the edges of the panels to insure accurate placement of
the center stiles. I used waxed paper between the dry fit panels and
the face frame to keep them from sticking together from the glue squeeze
out. In this case and on the TV console project I took a leap of faith
and assembled the face frames and the panels according to my drawings.
Basically 14 dado's and 7 different sections have to come together
perfectly on 7 different planes. Unfortunately with using this method a
mistake can mean the need to rebuild the face frames and or panel
sections if the fit is not perfect on the dry fit. The up side is that
if every thing is perfect, the assembly goes much more quickly. This is
the 20th and 21st cabinets that I have built with the front and back
face frame method in the past 3 years and so far all has gone well with
out a problem. I may have said this before, ;!), I could not do this as
quickly or as accurately as I do with out the aid of Sketchup and the
Cutlist 4.x component import program that accurately takes the drawings
measurements of it's components and imports them into CutList Plus. This
import program eliminates the possibility of entering component data
incorrectly into CutList Plus.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next the complete assembly with the "front face frame added to the top
of the assembly. FWIW the back face frame and front face frame are not
identical, because of the lap and floating tennon joinery I use on the
back face frame the back rails and inner stiles are 1" longer than the
ones on the front. This just adds to the complexity of the assembly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Lastly, inside of one of the compartments as seen from the top looking
down to the bottom. All joints are dadoed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Looking good, damned good, as usual!


Come hang your doors on it and save me some time. ;~)

On 11/12/2013 12:43 PM, Leon wrote:
My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is
dedicated to her quilt making.

We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the
new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing
machine lower cabinets. For those not familiar the long arm sewing
machine has a foot print of approximately 48" x 132". I have designed
two lower cabinets, each 60" long for this large tool to set on. There
will be a 12" gap between the two cabinets. The base of the long arm
machine base is 16" long front to back and has arms that support the
quilt front, back, and center padding extend approximately 30" total
front and back. Anyway the cabinets are going to be 22.5" deep, 30"
tall and 60" long. The machine is currently setting on top of a 72" and
a 60" fold up lunch room style tables.

I picked up materials on Thursday last week and this morning began the
glue up of the carcases. Once again I am using my double face frame
construction with no screws or nails, all dado's, lap joints, domino
floating tenons, and glue construction for this stage.

The cabinets will have a maple plywood body with poplar for the hard
wood parts. The exterior will be painted a light mint green color with
oil based alkyd paint. Interior coated with varnish.

This first picture shows the 5 dado's in the back face frame. The
cabinet bottom outer sides and inner panels will engage the face frame
via those dado's.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


This picture shows the bottom of the cabinet sitting in the back face
frame bottom rail and one of the end panels leaning up against it. The
end panels engage the face frame outer stile dado and the bottom panel
engages the side panel dado.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next is basically the same with both outer panels engaged with the back
face frame and outer bottom panel. You can see where the inner panels
will engage the bottom panel dado's and the back face frame inner stile
dado's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next a more close up view

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next, a shot of all panels and the back face frame. There are 9 dado's
that have been filled at this point.
The face frames were glued up with out the aid of the panels and their
dado's. Often I will dry fit the panels and assemble and glue the face
frames on top of the edges of the panels to insure accurate placement of
the center stiles. I used waxed paper between the dry fit panels and
the face frame to keep them from sticking together from the glue squeeze
out. In this case and on the TV console project I took a leap of faith
and assembled the face frames and the panels according to my drawings.
Basically 14 dado's and 7 different sections have to come together
perfectly on 7 different planes. Unfortunately with using this method a
mistake can mean the need to rebuild the face frames and or panel
sections if the fit is not perfect on the dry fit. The up side is that
if every thing is perfect, the assembly goes much more quickly. This is
the 20th and 21st cabinets that I have built with the front and back
face frame method in the past 3 years and so far all has gone well with
out a problem. I may have said this before, ;!), I could not do this as
quickly or as accurately as I do with out the aid of Sketchup and the
Cutlist 4.x component import program that accurately takes the drawings
measurements of it's components and imports them into CutList Plus. This
import program eliminates the possibility of entering component data
incorrectly into CutList Plus.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next the complete assembly with the "front face frame added to the top
of the assembly. FWIW the back face frame and front face frame are not
identical, because of the lap and floating tennon joinery I use on the
back face frame the back rails and inner stiles are 1" longer than the
ones on the front. This just adds to the complexity of the assembly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Lastly, inside of one of the compartments as seen from the top looking
down to the bottom. All joints are dadoed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

132" wow, I should be glad my wife only has a working (actually it just
humms when she uses it) 1911 Singer treadle machine. Parts are getting
hard to find though, if something important breaks it may just become a
piece of furniture.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 11/12/2013 3:31 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 11/12/2013 12:43 PM, Leon wrote:
My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is
dedicated to her quilt making.

We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the
new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing
machine lower cabinets. For those not familiar the long arm sewing
machine has a foot print of approximately 48" x 132". I have designed
two lower cabinets, each 60" long for this large tool to set on. There
will be a 12" gap between the two cabinets. The base of the long arm
machine base is 16" long front to back and has arms that support the
quilt front, back, and center padding extend approximately 30" total
front and back. Anyway the cabinets are going to be 22.5" deep, 30"
tall and 60" long. The machine is currently setting on top of a 72" and
a 60" fold up lunch room style tables.

I picked up materials on Thursday last week and this morning began the
glue up of the carcases. Once again I am using my double face frame
construction with no screws or nails, all dado's, lap joints, domino
floating tenons, and glue construction for this stage.

The cabinets will have a maple plywood body with poplar for the hard
wood parts. The exterior will be painted a light mint green color with
oil based alkyd paint. Interior coated with varnish.

This first picture shows the 5 dado's in the back face frame. The
cabinet bottom outer sides and inner panels will engage the face frame
via those dado's.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


This picture shows the bottom of the cabinet sitting in the back face
frame bottom rail and one of the end panels leaning up against it. The
end panels engage the face frame outer stile dado and the bottom panel
engages the side panel dado.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next is basically the same with both outer panels engaged with the back
face frame and outer bottom panel. You can see where the inner panels
will engage the bottom panel dado's and the back face frame inner stile
dado's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next a more close up view

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next, a shot of all panels and the back face frame. There are 9 dado's
that have been filled at this point.
The face frames were glued up with out the aid of the panels and their
dado's. Often I will dry fit the panels and assemble and glue the face
frames on top of the edges of the panels to insure accurate placement of
the center stiles. I used waxed paper between the dry fit panels and
the face frame to keep them from sticking together from the glue squeeze
out. In this case and on the TV console project I took a leap of faith
and assembled the face frames and the panels according to my drawings.
Basically 14 dado's and 7 different sections have to come together
perfectly on 7 different planes. Unfortunately with using this method a
mistake can mean the need to rebuild the face frames and or panel
sections if the fit is not perfect on the dry fit. The up side is that
if every thing is perfect, the assembly goes much more quickly. This is
the 20th and 21st cabinets that I have built with the front and back
face frame method in the past 3 years and so far all has gone well with
out a problem. I may have said this before, ;!), I could not do this as
quickly or as accurately as I do with out the aid of Sketchup and the
Cutlist 4.x component import program that accurately takes the drawings
measurements of it's components and imports them into CutList Plus. This
import program eliminates the possibility of entering component data
incorrectly into CutList Plus.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next the complete assembly with the "front face frame added to the top
of the assembly. FWIW the back face frame and front face frame are not
identical, because of the lap and floating tennon joinery I use on the
back face frame the back rails and inner stiles are 1" longer than the
ones on the front. This just adds to the complexity of the assembly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Lastly, inside of one of the compartments as seen from the top looking
down to the bottom. All joints are dadoed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

132" wow, I should be glad my wife only has a working (actually it just
humms when she uses it) 1911 Singer treadle machine. Parts are getting
hard to find though, if something important breaks it may just become a
piece of furniture.

We have one of those pedal Singer models too. I inherited it from my
Grandmother. My dad ,now 90, worked the foot pedal platform when he was
a kid.

On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:31:01 PM UTC-6, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 11/12/2013 12:43 PM, Leon wrote: My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is dedicated to her quilt making. We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing machine lower cabinets.

Neat project, one I can, somewhat, relate to, having built a much less refined support table and side table for my long arm upholstery machine (now gone, sold it). I'm anxious to see the finished project.


132" wow, I should be glad my wife only has a working (actually it just humms when she uses it) 1911 Singer treadle machine. Parts are getting hard to find though, if something important breaks it may just become a piece of furniture. -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

This guy, Jimster100, in Oakland, Ca. seems to have a pretty good supply of old parts. About 2 yrs ago, I restored a Singer model 15, needed a few parts. Found them he http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-SUPPLY...1#ht_63wt_1125

One aspect, of several, I needed: The treadle machines were able to be upgraded with an adapter, to use AC or DC power supply (the adpapter could be wired for either), depending on what external power a person (especially someone in a rural area) may have had to hook up to, and the related mechanical parts. Jimster100 had (still has?) the parts. Might want to keep him in mind.

Sonny

On 11/13/2013 12:54 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:31:01 PM UTC-6, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 11/12/2013 12:43 PM, Leon wrote: My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is dedicated to her quilt making. We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing machine lower cabinets.

Neat project, one I can, somewhat, relate to, having built a much less refined support table and side table for my long arm upholstery machine (now gone, sold it). I'm anxious to see the finished project.


132" wow, I should be glad my wife only has a working (actually it just humms when she uses it) 1911 Singer treadle machine. Parts are getting hard to find though, if something important breaks it may just become a piece of furniture. -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

This guy, Jimster100, in Oakland, Ca. seems to have a pretty good supply of old parts. About 2 yrs ago, I restored a Singer model 15, needed a few parts. Found them he http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-SUPPLY...1#ht_63wt_1125

One aspect, of several, I needed: The treadle machines were able to be upgraded with an adapter, to use AC or DC power supply (the adpapter could be wired for either), depending on what external power a person (especially someone in a rural area) may have had to hook up to, and the related mechanical parts. Jimster100 had (still has?) the parts. Might want to keep him in mind.

Sonny



Ill post pictures of the monster and the cabinets when it is all done.

On Wed, 13 Nov 2013 14:20:26 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/13/2013 12:54 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 3:31:01 PM UTC-6, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 11/12/2013 12:43 PM, Leon wrote: My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is dedicated to her quilt making. We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing machine lower cabinets.

Neat project, one I can, somewhat, relate to, having built a much less refined support table and side table for my long arm upholstery machine (now gone, sold it). I'm anxious to see the finished project.


132" wow, I should be glad my wife only has a working (actually it just humms when she uses it) 1911 Singer treadle machine. Parts are getting hard to find though, if something important breaks it may just become a piece of furniture. -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

This guy, Jimster100, in Oakland, Ca. seems to have a pretty good supply of old parts. About 2 yrs ago, I restored a Singer model 15, needed a few parts. Found them he http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-SUPPLY...1#ht_63wt_1125

One aspect, of several, I needed: The treadle machines were able to be upgraded with an adapter, to use AC or DC power supply (the adpapter could be wired for either), depending on what external power a person (especially someone in a rural area) may have had to hook up to, and the related mechanical parts. Jimster100 had (still has?) the parts. Might want to keep him in mind.

Sonny



Ill post pictures of the monster and the cabinets when it is all done.

I hope I know enough about you that you have determined you can get it
up the stairs. LOL

Mike M

On 11/12/2013 10:43 AM, Leon wrote:
My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is
dedicated to her quilt making.

We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the
new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing
machine lower cabinets. For those not familiar the long arm sewing
machine has a foot print of approximately 48" x 132". I have designed
two lower cabinets, each 60" long for this large tool to set on. There
will be a 12" gap between the two cabinets. The base of the long arm
machine base is 16" long front to back and has arms that support the
quilt front, back, and center padding extend approximately 30" total
front and back. Anyway the cabinets are going to be 22.5" deep, 30"
tall and 60" long. The machine is currently setting on top of a 72" and
a 60" fold up lunch room style tables.

I picked up materials on Thursday last week and this morning began the
glue up of the carcases. Once again I am using my double face frame
construction with no screws or nails, all dado's, lap joints, domino
floating tenons, and glue construction for this stage.

The cabinets will have a maple plywood body with poplar for the hard
wood parts. The exterior will be painted a light mint green color with
oil based alkyd paint. Interior coated with varnish.

This first picture shows the 5 dado's in the back face frame. The
cabinet bottom outer sides and inner panels will engage the face frame
via those dado's.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


This picture shows the bottom of the cabinet sitting in the back face
frame bottom rail and one of the end panels leaning up against it. The
end panels engage the face frame outer stile dado and the bottom panel
engages the side panel dado.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next is basically the same with both outer panels engaged with the back
face frame and outer bottom panel. You can see where the inner panels
will engage the bottom panel dado's and the back face frame inner stile
dado's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next a more close up view

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next, a shot of all panels and the back face frame. There are 9 dado's
that have been filled at this point.
The face frames were glued up with out the aid of the panels and their
dado's. Often I will dry fit the panels and assemble and glue the face
frames on top of the edges of the panels to insure accurate placement of
the center stiles. I used waxed paper between the dry fit panels and
the face frame to keep them from sticking together from the glue squeeze
out. In this case and on the TV console project I took a leap of faith
and assembled the face frames and the panels according to my drawings.
Basically 14 dado's and 7 different sections have to come together
perfectly on 7 different planes. Unfortunately with using this method a
mistake can mean the need to rebuild the face frames and or panel
sections if the fit is not perfect on the dry fit. The up side is that
if every thing is perfect, the assembly goes much more quickly. This is
the 20th and 21st cabinets that I have built with the front and back
face frame method in the past 3 years and so far all has gone well with
out a problem. I may have said this before, ;!), I could not do this as
quickly or as accurately as I do with out the aid of Sketchup and the
Cutlist 4.x component import program that accurately takes the drawings
measurements of it's components and imports them into CutList Plus. This
import program eliminates the possibility of entering component data
incorrectly into CutList Plus.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next the complete assembly with the "front face frame added to the top
of the assembly. FWIW the back face frame and front face frame are not
identical, because of the lap and floating tennon joinery I use on the
back face frame the back rails and inner stiles are 1" longer than the
ones on the front. This just adds to the complexity of the assembly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Lastly, inside of one of the compartments as seen from the top looking
down to the bottom. All joints are dadoed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/






Sheesh, don't you ever slow down?


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 11/12/2013 4:24 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 11/12/2013 10:43 AM, Leon wrote:
My wife owns and is the controller of the upstairs in our house. It is
dedicated to her quilt making.

We have decided to get those rooms in order after almost being in the
new house for 3 years. We are starting with the "long arm" sewing
machine lower cabinets. For those not familiar the long arm sewing
machine has a foot print of approximately 48" x 132". I have designed
two lower cabinets, each 60" long for this large tool to set on. There
will be a 12" gap between the two cabinets. The base of the long arm
machine base is 16" long front to back and has arms that support the
quilt front, back, and center padding extend approximately 30" total
front and back. Anyway the cabinets are going to be 22.5" deep, 30"
tall and 60" long. The machine is currently setting on top of a 72" and
a 60" fold up lunch room style tables.

I picked up materials on Thursday last week and this morning began the
glue up of the carcases. Once again I am using my double face frame
construction with no screws or nails, all dado's, lap joints, domino
floating tenons, and glue construction for this stage.

The cabinets will have a maple plywood body with poplar for the hard
wood parts. The exterior will be painted a light mint green color with
oil based alkyd paint. Interior coated with varnish.

This first picture shows the 5 dado's in the back face frame. The
cabinet bottom outer sides and inner panels will engage the face frame
via those dado's.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


This picture shows the bottom of the cabinet sitting in the back face
frame bottom rail and one of the end panels leaning up against it. The
end panels engage the face frame outer stile dado and the bottom panel
engages the side panel dado.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next is basically the same with both outer panels engaged with the back
face frame and outer bottom panel. You can see where the inner panels
will engage the bottom panel dado's and the back face frame inner stile
dado's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/


Next a more close up view

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next, a shot of all panels and the back face frame. There are 9 dado's
that have been filled at this point.
The face frames were glued up with out the aid of the panels and their
dado's. Often I will dry fit the panels and assemble and glue the face
frames on top of the edges of the panels to insure accurate placement of
the center stiles. I used waxed paper between the dry fit panels and
the face frame to keep them from sticking together from the glue squeeze
out. In this case and on the TV console project I took a leap of faith
and assembled the face frames and the panels according to my drawings.
Basically 14 dado's and 7 different sections have to come together
perfectly on 7 different planes. Unfortunately with using this method a
mistake can mean the need to rebuild the face frames and or panel
sections if the fit is not perfect on the dry fit. The up side is that
if every thing is perfect, the assembly goes much more quickly. This is
the 20th and 21st cabinets that I have built with the front and back
face frame method in the past 3 years and so far all has gone well with
out a problem. I may have said this before, ;!), I could not do this as
quickly or as accurately as I do with out the aid of Sketchup and the
Cutlist 4.x component import program that accurately takes the drawings
measurements of it's components and imports them into CutList Plus. This
import program eliminates the possibility of entering component data
incorrectly into CutList Plus.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Next the complete assembly with the "front face frame added to the top
of the assembly. FWIW the back face frame and front face frame are not
identical, because of the lap and floating tennon joinery I use on the
back face frame the back rails and inner stiles are 1" longer than the
ones on the front. This just adds to the complexity of the assembly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/

Lastly, inside of one of the compartments as seen from the top looking
down to the bottom. All joints are dadoed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...n/photostream/






Sheesh, don't you ever slow down?


I get bored quickly.

Having know several folks who sewed and made things for them, I can relate.
I have made "thread racks" that stored literally hundreds of spool of
thread. And a number of sewing (and serger) tables/cabinets. But I have
never made anything for a 132" monster. I think that many shop tools would
take up less space! That is 11 feet long! Maybe you could install a fold
out bed in the side of this thing!

Quilters are an interesting species. I am married to one. They do certain
things very well and other things not so well. You must be careful in your
approach to them and how you speak to them. And be particularly tuned into
them when you make something for them..

My sympathies bro! Hang in there. Hopefully the quilting gods will smile
upon you.

On 11/12/2013 4:45 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
Having know several folks who sewed and made things for them, I can
relate. I have made "thread racks" that stored literally hundreds of
spool of thread. And a number of sewing (and serger) tables/cabinets.
But I have never made anything for a 132" monster. I think that many
shop tools would take up less space! That is 11 feet long! Maybe you
could install a fold out bed in the side of this thing!

Quilters are an interesting species.

Yes they are!

I am married to one. They do
certain things very well and other things not so well. You must be
careful in your approach to them and how you speak to them. And be
particularly tuned into them when you make something for them..

Yes!


My sympathies bro! Hang in there. Hopefully the quilting gods will
smile upon you.

She is a good cook too. ;~)

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

She is a good cook too. ;~)

The mother of all under statements!

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Leon, maybe this item may be of interest: Even with my much less glamorous sewing table (extension), I quickly noticed a problem with it: the 90 degree corners would catch the fabric, as I would sew.

I initially made a left side extension table (you can see it at the top of the pic; the sewing machine is to the right, out of the picture - http://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/10949570714/), but found I needed an additional "leaf", just to the left of my chair, as I sat sewing. I ended up cutting the corners off the leaf, because they repeatedly caught and held the fabric, as I would sew. I'm sure a rounded corner would have worked, also.

Maybe question your wife as to her possibly having a similar issue with a previous sharp cornered table, if you and she haven't already considered/discussed a similar past issue, as this.... *Take care of a possible problem-issue before it shows itself.

Sonny

On 11/19/2013 2:06 PM, Sonny wrote:
Leon, maybe this item may be of interest: Even with my much less glamorous sewing table (extension), I quickly noticed a problem with it: the 90 degree corners would catch the fabric, as I would sew.

I initially made a left side extension table (you can see it at the top of the pic; the sewing machine is to the right, out of the picture - http://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/10949570714/), but found I needed an additional "leaf", just to the left of my chair, as I sat sewing. I ended up cutting the corners off the leaf, because they repeatedly caught and held the fabric, as I would sew. I'm sure a rounded corner would have worked, also.

Maybe question your wife as to her possibly having a similar issue with a previous sharp cornered table, if you and she haven't already considered/discussed a similar past issue, as this.... *Take care of a possible problem-issue before it shows itself.

Sonny



Well thanks for thinking about me Sonny. For the current cabinets I
used a 1/8" round over bit for the tops. That said the fabric will
never really come in contact with the cabinets. The fabtic is would up
on 11' poles.

Something like this except with out the table and legs portion. I am
building the cabinets for that purpose.

http://www.handiquilter.com/shop/pro...-studio-frame/



I will however be adding an 8' sewing table, phase II, for both her
normal and embroidery machines. And there will also be a large wall
cabinet, phase III.