I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are built but need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images/table/page2.htm

Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of Transtint Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.

I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower drawer. Made front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.

I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are
built but need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images/table/page2.htm

Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of Transtint
Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.

I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower drawer.
Made front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3
sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of
the pics.

I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.

Very nice.

I assume that is going to darken up over time. But this starts out a little
darker than other cherry pieces I have seen.

The lines are good. The color is good. I am sure that somebody will be
very happy with it.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in
:

I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are
built but need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images/table/page2.htm

Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of
Transtint Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.

I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower
drawer. Made front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched
the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page
at the end of the pics.

I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.

Looks great!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:57:43 AM UTC-6, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I recently finished one set of three I am building.

As with the original, it's uncomplicated, elegant and pleasing to the eye. Good job.

Similarly, I've always liked this Roycroft book case -
http://www.artvalue.com/auctionresul...al-2100022.htm . Your sewing table has rekindled my thoughts to attempt this bookcase.

Sonny

On 2/27/2013 12:57 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are built but need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images/table/page2.htm

Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of Transtint Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.

I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower drawer. Made front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.

I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.

So do I ... good design and execution. Well done!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 6:09:55 AM UTC-8, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:57:43 AM UTC-6, SonomaProducts.com wrote: I recently finished one set of three I am building. As with the original, it's uncomplicated, elegant and pleasing to the eye. Good job. Similarly, I've always liked this Roycroft book case - http://www.artvalue.com/auctionresul...al-2100022.htm . Your sewing table has rekindled my thoughts to attempt this bookcase. Sonny

Yes, those always caught my eye also. The Hile furniture company used to make a repro version but I don't see it on his website anymore.

One question. With the wedge tenons, will you actually let them be the jointing aspect or will you glue it up? I have plans to build a trestle table with wedge tenons and I think I'll not glue them and also make the legs bolt to the table them so I can break the table down for moving.

On 2/26/2013 11:57 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are built but need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images/table/page2.htm

Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of Transtint Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.

I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower drawer. Made front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.

I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.


Aw... nice, very nice!!

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:23:36 PM UTC-6, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
One question. With the wedge tenons, will you actually let them be the jointing aspect or will you glue it up? I have plans to build a trestle table with wedge tenons and I think I'll not glue them and also make the legs bolt to the table them so I can break the table down for moving.

I'll let the wedge tenons hold the joint. That technique is tried and true and holds great. A bookcase as the Roycroft, should not need an (overkill) glued attachment, unless it would be made with cheap/weak lumber.

My nephew and I made a long trestle bar table, for a local pub.... used for eating and drinking. It's about 43" tall and has a keyed trestle (wedge tenons). It's sturdy, despite being made of (relatively soft) cypress. With patrons leaning on it and such, it's held up just fine these past 10 months. I don't have pics of it, but I'll get some.

Lately, I've looked at other trestle dining tables (online pics, for a design idea), for making one for the camp, using the walnut I recently milled. I may practice some other keyed assembled projects to learn more about the keying, in case there are some aspects or key types that are better than others. I do not plan to glue these keyed joints. I may try to figure out some keying assembly for the table top to legs attaching, too. I'll have to study/research that a good bit more more, before I commit to it.

In my recent shaving horse project, I used 2 flat wedges to help secure the head. I made the shaving horse to be disassembled easily, for moving conveniently, then reassembling.

The concept of wedge or keyed joints is simple, easy and, so for, holds very well, plus easy disassembly.

Along the same line of wedging or keyed "clamping", lately a local metal craftsman and I have been experimenting with making holdfasts. Their clamping function is similar to wedging and keyed pressure for "holding". I've been reading.... why certain holdfast designs work and others don't. All these types of joint assembly and clamping are somewhat related, that way. *We made 4
prototypes and 2 worked fine, so for.

Seems the optimum angle for a holdfast (Shaft to seating head) is 83°. I wonder if a keyed joint or the key's bevel of 83° is optimum for strength and/or not loosening, readily. I may make a few different angled ones, for testing. Optimum angle may be dependant on the wood used, also.

Sonny

I lied. I did have pics of the bar table, in a gardening folder.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4383614...n/photostream/

Sonny

On Tue, 26 Feb 2013 22:57:43 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are built but need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images/table/page2.htm

Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of Transtint Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.

I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower drawer. Made front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.

I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.

I think it's picture 5 but the joint looks like there is squeeze out
or something. Everything else looks so clean I assume it is just
photo not being reality.

Mike M

I think it's picture 5 but the joint looks like there is squeeze out or something. Everything else looks so clean I assume it is just photo not being reality. Mike M

Whaaatttt!!!!?

I think you are talking about the sliding dovetail joint of the lower cross members. Actually it is most likely steel wool shavings or dust settled on the wax.

I hate the way steel wool shavings get in all the creases but I love the way it deglosses at the same time I am applying wax so I suffer the dust. Yes, magnets can help but it does stick in crevises sometimes.