Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
Figured higher.

if his wood has been well stored and covered , stickered you can
expect to pay around that. If on the other hand it was already
surfaced, I devalue that, since I can't fix it without going thinner.

If it has been stored uncovered and exposed to sunlight, that would
devalue it as it is probably not evenly darkened.


I managed to find the owner of the wood outside today, and I took along
a book with some pictures of wood with "defects", and asked him about
his cherry wood. He said that it has been stored indoors for 15 years
(not stickered, no water damage, no bugs), and he said it was straight.
The main criticism he had of it was that is was of uneven thicknesses,
widths and lengths. He estimated quantity at 200-250 bd-ft. He
affirmed that he was going to bring it to his house near me, though he
does not seem in a hurry, and I asked him to please let me know when did
so. I know he does not wish to own it, so a suspect a "pick and choose"
deal may not be reasonable to him. Will keep you posted!

Bill

On 11/10/2013 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:
I managed to find the owner of the wood outside today, and I took along
a book with some pictures of wood with "defects", and asked him about
his cherry wood. He said that it has been stored indoors for 15 years
(not stickered, no water damage, no bugs), and he said it was straight.
The main criticism he had of it was that is was of uneven thicknesses,
widths and lengths. He estimated quantity at 200-250 bd-ft. He
affirmed that he was going to bring it to his house near me, though he
does not seem in a hurry, and I asked him to please let me know when did
so. I know he does not wish to own it, so a suspect a "pick and choose"
deal may not be reasonable to him. Will keep you posted!

Stored indoor is good news.

The lengths, thickness and widths are exactly what you would expect from
a sawmill/wood cut off the land and stored, so that should be no surprise.

Also, there is not that much to hurt you if the price is close to your
budget.

Jointer, planer and a table saw and you're in business. Or, in lieu of
the jointer, a Festool track saw.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 11/10/2013 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:
I managed to find the owner of the wood outside today, and I took
along a book with some pictures of wood with "defects", and asked
him about his cherry wood. He said that it has been stored indoors
for 15 years (not stickered, no water damage, no bugs), and he said
it was straight. The main criticism he had of it was that is was of
uneven thicknesses, widths and lengths. He estimated quantity at
200-250 bd-ft. He affirmed that he was going to bring it to his
house near me, though he does not seem in a hurry, and I asked him
to please let me know when did so. I know he does not wish to own
it, so a suspect a "pick and choose" deal may not be reasonable to
him. Will keep you posted!

Stored indoor is good news.

The lengths, thickness and widths are exactly what you would expect
from a sawmill/wood cut off the land and stored, so that should be no
surprise.
Also, there is not that much to hurt you if the price is close to your
budget.

Just always remember that your budget is $0. You really like it... you
really want it, but the wife says...


Jointer, planer and a table saw and you're in business. Or, in lieu of
the jointer, a Festool track saw.

Farkin' Festools salesmen! They always find a way to sneak into these
threads...

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 11/10/2013 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:
I managed to find the owner of the wood outside today, and I took
along a book with some pictures of wood with "defects", and asked
him about his cherry wood. He said that it has been stored indoors
for 15 years (not stickered, no water damage, no bugs), and he said
it was straight. The main criticism he had of it was that is was of
uneven thicknesses, widths and lengths. He estimated quantity at
200-250 bd-ft. He affirmed that he was going to bring it to his
house near me, though he does not seem in a hurry, and I asked him
to please let me know when did so. I know he does not wish to own
it, so a suspect a "pick and choose" deal may not be reasonable to
him. Will keep you posted!
Stored indoor is good news.

The lengths, thickness and widths are exactly what you would expect
from a sawmill/wood cut off the land and stored, so that should be no
surprise.
Also, there is not that much to hurt you if the price is close to your
budget.
Just always remember that your budget is $0. You really like it... you
really want it, but the wife says...

Good thinking. I need to remember to bring my wife into the
equation. From what Swingman wrote, it reminds me that I should put
"waste" into the equation too. I am eager to see the stuff. If I like
it, I can tote it home in my wheelbarrow! : )

Bill

Jointer, planer and a table saw and you're in business. Or, in lieu of
the jointer, a Festool track saw.
Farkin' Festools salesmen! They always find a way to sneak into these
threads...

Bill wrote:


Good thinking. I need to remember to bring my wife into the
equation. From what Swingman wrote, it reminds me that I should put
"waste" into the equation too. I am eager to see the stuff. If I like
it, I can tote it home in my wheelbarrow! : )


No freakin' way, Bill! Dontchyagetit? You've got the perfect reason to go
out and buy a pickup truck! Geezee, gotta explain everything...

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Good thinking. I need to remember to bring my wife into the
equation. From what Swingman wrote, it reminds me that I should put
"waste" into the equation too. I am eager to see the stuff. If I like
it, I can tote it home in my wheelbarrow! : )

No freakin' way, Bill! Dontchyagetit? You've got the perfect reason to go
out and buy a pickup truck! Geezee, gotta explain everything...


Here's a somewhat related question. Probably because he and I don't
have jointers, he was thinking that I might use it as a veneer on plywood.
I was not thinking along those lines, but it made me ponder. If you
were going to make a kitchen table out of cherry, would you be more
likely to apply it to a stable substrate like plywood, or not? I think
I can think of some of the pros and cons of doing so and not doing so,
but I surely don't have a verdict. Just take it as a "for fun" serous
question! : ) I can't think of a better place in the whole world to
pose it!

Bill

Bill wrote:

Here's a somewhat related question. Probably because he and I don't have
jointers, he was thinking that I might use it as a veneer on plywood.
I was not thinking along those lines, but it made me ponder. If you were
going to make a kitchen table out of cherry, would you be more likely to
apply it to a stable substrate like plywood, or not? I think I can
think of some of the pros and cons of doing so and not doing so, but I
surely don't have a verdict. Just take it as a "for fun" serous question!
: ) I can't think of a better place in the whole world to pose it!

Valid use of a limited supply of wood. For that you will also need to put
an 18" Laguana bandsaw on your wish list.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Here's a somewhat related question. Probably because he and I don't have
jointers, he was thinking that I might use it as a veneer on plywood.
I was not thinking along those lines, but it made me ponder. If you were
going to make a kitchen table out of cherry, would you be more likely to
apply it to a stable substrate like plywood, or not? I think I can
think of some of the pros and cons of doing so and not doing so, but I
surely don't have a verdict. Just take it as a "for fun" serous question!
: ) I can't think of a better place in the whole world to pose it!
Valid use of a limited supply of wood. For that you will also need to put
an 18" Laguana bandsaw on your wish list.

Yes, to make veneer. Gluing 3/8" cherry to plywood is just asking for
problems due to expansion and contraction, huh?

Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up using a 3/4"
cherry top. That should be strong enough until someone jumps up on the
table and splits it, huh? ::: Making mental note to glue up the boards
to they run the long ways :::

Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Here's a somewhat related question. Probably because he and I don't
have
jointers, he was thinking that I might use it as a veneer on plywood.
I was not thinking along those lines, but it made me ponder. If you
were
going to make a kitchen table out of cherry, would you be more
likely to
apply it to a stable substrate like plywood, or not? I think I can
think of some of the pros and cons of doing so and not doing so, but I
surely don't have a verdict. Just take it as a "for fun" serous
question!
: ) I can't think of a better place in the whole world to pose it!
Valid use of a limited supply of wood. For that you will also need to
put
an 18" Laguana bandsaw on your wish list.

Yes, to make veneer. Gluing 3/8" cherry to plywood is just asking for
problems due to expansion and contraction, huh?

Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up using a 3/4"
cherry top. That should be strong enough until someone jumps up on
the table and splits it, huh? ::: Making mental note to glue up the
boards to they run the long ways :::

It just occurred to me, and one would think that I would have learned
from my garage-electrical project--One has to be careful what they
start! ; )

Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
Here's a somewhat related question. Probably because he and I don't have
jointers, he was thinking that I might use it as a veneer on plywood.
I was not thinking along those lines, but it made me ponder. If you were
going to make a kitchen table out of cherry, would you be more likely to
apply it to a stable substrate like plywood, or not? I think I can
think of some of the pros and cons of doing so and not doing so, but I
surely don't have a verdict. Just take it as a "for fun" serous question!
) I can't think of a better place in the whole world to pose it!
Valid use of a limited supply of wood. For that you will also need to put
an 18" Laguana bandsaw on your wish list.

Yes, to make veneer. Gluing 3/8" cherry to plywood is just asking for
problems due to expansion and contraction, huh?

Although I would normally use a much thinner veneer than 3/8, on both
sides of plywood or MDF, it depends.

You can defy conventional wisdom if you're smart about it.

I once made a veneered panel using 3/4" quartersawn poplar and 1/2"
quarter sawn white oak, and a decade later later it hasn't moved a mm. Both
being quartersawn, they have a similar cross grain expansion coefficient
(which is almost nil) and were glued together with plastic resin glue. In
today's controlled environments, I'll bet they turn to sawdust long before
there is a cross grain expansion problem.

That said, it is not a practice for the faint of heart, or designing and
selling heirlooms to a third party, but it's OK to experiment with your
woodworking endeavors to come up with unique things.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Bill wrote:

Here's a somewhat related question. Probably because he and I don't
have jointers, he was thinking that I might use it as a veneer on
plywood. I was not thinking along those lines, but it made me ponder.
If you were going to make a kitchen table out of cherry, would you be more
likely to apply it to a stable substrate like plywood, or not?

Not if I had decent cherry to glue up to make a table top. DAGS the
structure of a table top and you'll see it does not need any plywood
underneath it - if the cherry is decent. BTW - Plywood is not as stable as
you may think. Both 1/2" and 3/4" ply - even the "good stuff" will show
bowing right off the rack in most big box store. Simple story - just
thinking that a plywood substrate is good is a misguided thought.

So - let's take this to a different level. Why is it that you ask that
question Bill? The very question itself implies that you believe some
benefit to a plywood substrate. Sometimes yes, sometimes... not so much.
Let's make this a learning experience within the group (not to put you on
the hot seat...) - what is it that makes you feel plywood would be
beneficial in this kind of project?


--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:


Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up using a 3/4"
cherry top. That should be strong enough until someone jumps up on
the table and splits it, huh? ::: Making mental note to glue up the
boards to they run the long ways :::

Have you looked at what a 3/4" cherry board can withstand in terms of
weight? Or even better - have you consulted with your wife and asked her if
said person could even make it on top of her table before she
"intervened..."?

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up using a 3/4"
cherry top. That should be strong enough until someone jumps up on
the table and splits it, huh? ::: Making mental note to glue up the
boards to they run the long ways :::
Have you looked at what a 3/4" cherry board can withstand in terms of
weight? Or even better - have you consulted with your wife and asked her if
said person could even make it on top of her table before she
"intervened..."?

I haven't done serious research on tables yet. I've got a table saw,
jointer, and cherry wood practically picked out! I also have a much
better grasp of what I like stylistically in furniture compared to, say,
a year ago. It hardly gets much more fun than the design stage! : )

Regarding your question, it would look bad if the cook dropped a turkey
on the center of the table and the table came apart at the seams! ;
) I wouldn't even like to see it happen due to 4 bags of groceries!

Bill

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up using a 3/4"
cherry top. That should be strong enough until someone jumps up on
the table and splits it, huh? ::: Making mental note to glue up the
boards to they run the long ways :::
Have you looked at what a 3/4" cherry board can withstand in terms of
weight? Or even better - have you consulted with your wife and
asked her if said person could even make it on top of her table
before she "intervened..."?

I haven't done serious research on tables yet. I've got a table saw,
jointer, and cherry wood practically picked out! I also have a
much better grasp of what I like stylistically in furniture compared
to, say, a year ago. It hardly gets much more fun than the design
stage! : )
Regarding your question, it would look bad if the cook dropped a
turkey on the center of the table and the table came apart at the
seams! ; ) I wouldn't even like to see it happen due to 4 bags of
groceries!

So - my only question Bill, is why are you worying about that Bill? I was
suggesting you simply invesigae table design beore running off thinking you
need ply under 3/4". Look under any table....

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up using a 3/4"
cherry top. That should be strong enough until someone jumps up on
the table and splits it, huh? ::: Making mental note to glue up the
boards to they run the long ways :::
Have you looked at what a 3/4" cherry board can withstand in terms of
weight? Or even better - have you consulted with your wife and
asked her if said person could even make it on top of her table
before she "intervened..."?

I haven't done serious research on tables yet. I've got a table saw,
jointer, and cherry wood practically picked out! I also have a
much better grasp of what I like stylistically in furniture compared
to, say, a year ago. It hardly gets much more fun than the design
stage! : )
Regarding your question, it would look bad if the cook dropped a
turkey on the center of the table and the table came apart at the
seams! ; ) I wouldn't even like to see it happen due to 4 bags of
groceries!
So - my only question Bill, is why are you worying about that Bill? I was
suggesting you simply invesigae table design beore running off thinking you
need ply under 3/4". Look under any table....

Yes, though I don't have any with cabriole legs handy! : ) I have
been thinking of a table top as a panel (with or without frames). The
research is interesting. I'm a long way from starting this project.
Hopefully some machinery may start appearing in the next couple of months.

I didn't even think about using plywood until my neighbor suggested that
he would approach using the cherry wood by veneering plywood. Being a
relative neophyte, I am receptive to new ideas when I hear them. I can
always save them for another day, or not.

On Sun, 10 Nov 2013 23:34:35 -0500, Bill
I didn't even think about using plywood until my neighbor suggested that
he would approach using the cherry wood by veneering plywood. Being a
relative neophyte, I am receptive to new ideas when I hear them. I can
always save them for another day, or not.

You can buy plywood already cherry veneered. That would likely be the
beginner method of making a table. A minor downside of this method is
that the cherry veneer is relatively thin and dropping something on it
*might* cause a dent or other damage that breaks through the veneer.
Damage of this type is not common and can often be satisfactorily
repaired if it does happen.

If you want a thicker veneer of cherry, then sure you can veneer a
plywood substrate yourself.

The third method is to forgo the plywood altogether and edge glue 3/4"
or thicker solid planks of cherry. If it's done properly, dropping
your 20lb turkey on the table will not cause the table to break or
collapse.

"Bill" wrote in message


Here's a somewhat related question. Probably because he
and I don't have jointers, he was thinking that I might use it as a
veneer on plywood. I was not thinking along those lines,
but it made me ponder. If you were going to make a kitchen table out of
cherry, would
you be more likely to apply it to a stable substrate like
plywood, or not?

Not. Unless the supply was not sufficient to make a solid top, what is
there to be gained? Consider...

Kitchen tables generally get a lot of use, much of it not being kind and
gentle. I guess that really isn't a negative though since if you slice your
own veneer you can make it a reasonable thickness, 1/16 - 1/8 or so.

There is that business of resawing though, not to mention smoothing the
slices, joining and taping them, gluing down on a fairly broad area (got a
lot of clamps? cauls?) and finally removing the tape and finishing. Me,
I'd rather use lumber.

BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use mine to
join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane with - or
even without - a shooting board.




--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Bill" wrote in message

Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up
using a 3/4" cherry top. That should be strong enough
until someone jumps up on the table and splits it, huh?

Yes. If you are a worrier, use one or more thwarts (crosspieces)
underneath.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 11/11/2013 7:18 AM, dadiOH wrote:

BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use mine to
join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane with - or
even without - a shooting board.


Let me see if I understand. You joint a 5-foot edge with a shooting
board? I'm not saying it's not a good idea, I just haven't seen one that
big.

You also made me realize that I wouldn't really have get all of the
boards in the table the same thickness--they just need to be flat on one
side before gluing. Of course, that's a little easier said than done.
My experience with my block plane has been very good. I have accumulated
a number of bigger planes I haven't tried! I was thinking that flatness
imperfections in a table top would stand out like a sore thumb in
today's world. Gluing up say 6 boards to form a flat surface is
intimidating! : )

BTW, whoever said a "dedicated sharpening station" was a good idea in
woodworking knows what they are talking about! I don't have one (yet)!

Thanks for the suggestions!

Bill

On 11/11/2013 7:36 AM, Bill wrote:

Gluing up say 6 boards to form a flat surface is intimidating! : )

It is a rare woodworking project, involving desirable hardwood lumber,
that does not entail gluing up a flat panel at some stage, particularly
for table tops.

It should be one of the first skills you develop as a "woodworker", and
a relatively easy one at that. You just have to think through the
process and make sure have all the necessary parts and tools before you
start.

Here's a table top that, due to it's size and heft, required a bit of
planning and foresight.

Scroll down to the last two paragraphs on this page and see how the
large (70 x 42) table top is glued up from 10, 5/4 boards of fairly
expensive quarter sawn white oak:

http://e-woodshop.net/Projects5.htm

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 08:06:10 -0600, Swingman wrote:
Scroll down to the last two paragraphs on this page and see how the
large (70 x 42) table top is glued up from 10, 5/4 boards of fairly
expensive quarter sawn white oak:
http://e-woodshop.net/Projects5.htm

Yup. And it was those two specific pictures that gave me the impetus
to build my garden trestle table.

wrote:
On Fri, 08 Nov 2013 12:35:20 -0500, willshak
wrote:

Puckdropper wrote:
Michael wrote in
:

Thanks for the info, people who responded. I've been looking at
pictures on the web and can't tell. I'm making a box for a charity
auction (it's supposed to have other stuff inside). I guess I could
label it "Maple or possibly Basswood + Red Oak Splines."
Basswood tends to be rather soft, while maple isn't all that soft. I don't
have a lot of experience with working either material, so I can't say more
than that.

Basswood is softer than Maple. Maple is a hardwood and used to make
baseball bats.

Maple baseball bats? I thought they were Ash or Hickory.

http://www.justbats.com/products/bas...od%20baseball/


You can make a dent in basswood with a fingernail. It is much harder
than balsa wood though.
I used a lot of thin basswood (up to a 1/4" thick) building dollhouse
furniture.
I had to cut it with a Dremel 4" table saw, and turn legs and other
round items with a Dremel miniature lathe.
Dremel, now owned by BOSCH, doesn't make those tools anymore, but you
can find them on eBay.

You'd probably see advertising for something with an unknown hardwood
marked as "hardwood spline" rather than stating a specific wood.

Puckdropper


--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

"Bill" wrote in message

On 11/11/2013 7:18 AM, dadiOH wrote:

BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent
blade can do an adequate job on the edges. If not, a
router table will (I often use mine to join edges
rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane
with - or even without - a shooting board.

Let me see if I understand. You joint a 5-foot edge with
a shooting board? I'm not saying it's not a good idea, I
just haven't seen one that big.

So use a router table.
______________

You also made me realize that I wouldn't really have get
all of the boards in the table the same thickness--they
just need to be flat on one side before gluing. Of
course, that's a little easier said than done. My
experience with my block plane has been very good. I have
accumulated a number of bigger planes I haven't tried! I
was thinking that flatness imperfections in a table top
would stand out like a sore thumb in today's world.

Yes, they will. And a block plane won't cut it to fix that.
____________________

Gluing up say 6 boards to form a flat surface is
intimidating! : )

They won't BE flat after you glue them up. Even if they start out that way
(unless you are very, very skilled or unbelievebly lucky). Flatten them
afterwards.

Thanks for the suggestions!

YW

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 11/11/2013 9:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/11/2013 7:36 AM, Bill wrote:

Gluing up say 6 boards to form a flat surface is intimidating! : )

It is a rare woodworking project, involving desirable hardwood lumber,
that does not entail gluing up a flat panel at some stage, particularly
for table tops.

Thank you very much. I forgot I had more tools at my disposal for this
than just glue, clamps, cauls, and Hope! : )



It should be one of the first skills you develop as a "woodworker", and
a relatively easy one at that. You just have to think through the
process and make sure have all the necessary parts and tools before you
start.

Here's a table top that, due to it's size and heft, required a bit of
planning and foresight.

Scroll down to the last two paragraphs on this page and see how the
large (70 x 42) table top is glued up from 10, 5/4 boards of fairly
expensive quarter sawn white oak:

http://e-woodshop.net/Projects5.htm

Bill wrote:


Let me see if I understand. You joint a 5-foot edge with a shooting
board? I'm not saying it's not a good idea, I just haven't seen one
that big.

If my memory serves me correctly (and it seldom really does...) Edwin used
to have a web site where he had pictures of what must have been about an 8'
shooting board. I think he used it to make sausages... (sausage making was
also on that web site.). It might be worth giving Edwin a ping if he does
not reply to this thread.


You also made me realize that I wouldn't really have get all of the
boards in the table the same thickness--they just need to be flat on
one side before gluing. Of course, that's a little easier said than
done. My experience with my block plane has been very good. I have
accumulated a number of bigger planes I haven't tried! I was
thinking that flatness imperfections in a table top would stand out
like a sore thumb in today's world. Gluing up say 6 boards to form a
flat surface is intimidating! : )

All the same thickness is going to be more important than you may think,
Bill. As I said yesterday - look underneath a table. Of course, you are
right that they also want to be dead flat. Your block plane (as you
probably know...) is not going to be your friend on a project like this.
You'll want the longest plane practical.


BTW, whoever said a "dedicated sharpening station" was a good idea in
woodworking knows what they are talking about! I don't have one
(yet)!

Yup - they can be a great tool. Comes a time though when you just don't
have the room...


--

-Mike-

On 11/10/2013 09:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Without the substrate, due to materials I would end up using a 3/4"
cherry top. That should be strong enough until someone jumps up on
the table and splits it, huh? ::: Making mental note to glue up the
boards to they run the long ways :::
Have you looked at what a 3/4" cherry board can withstand in terms of
weight? Or even better - have you consulted with your wife and
asked her if said person could even make it on top of her table
before she "intervened..."?

I haven't done serious research on tables yet. I've got a table saw,
jointer, and cherry wood practically picked out! I also have a
much better grasp of what I like stylistically in furniture compared
to, say, a year ago. It hardly gets much more fun than the design
stage! : )
Regarding your question, it would look bad if the cook dropped a
turkey on the center of the table and the table came apart at the
seams! ; ) I wouldn't even like to see it happen due to 4 bags of
groceries!
So - my only question Bill, is why are you worying about that Bill?
I was
suggesting you simply invesigae table design beore running off
thinking you
need ply under 3/4". Look under any table....

Yes, though I don't have any with cabriole legs handy! : ) I have
been thinking of a table top as a panel (with or without frames). The
research is interesting. I'm a long way from starting this project.
Hopefully some machinery may start appearing in the next couple of months.

I didn't even think about using plywood until my neighbor suggested that
he would approach using the cherry wood by veneering plywood. Being a
relative neophyte, I am receptive to new ideas when I hear them. I can
always save them for another day, or not.

Put some pics on abpw for Bill...


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 11/10/2013 09:34 PM, Bill wrote:

I didn't even think about using plywood until my neighbor suggested that
he would approach using the cherry wood by veneering plywood. Being a
relative neophyte, I am receptive to new ideas when I hear them. I can
always save them for another day, or not.

Put some pics on abpw for Bill...


Swingman posted link to enough pics to keep me going for some time.
I don't think I'm interested in becoming a veneer-er for the time being...

Bill

Bill wrote:
Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 11/10/2013 09:34 PM, Bill wrote:

I didn't even think about using plywood until my neighbor suggested
that
he would approach using the cherry wood by veneering plywood. Being a
relative neophyte, I am receptive to new ideas when I hear them. I can
always save them for another day, or not.

Put some pics on abpw for Bill...


Swingman posted link to enough pics to keep me going for some time.
I don't think I'm interested in becoming a veneer-er for the time
being...

Bill

Thanks Doug. I misunderstood your message when I first read it. I'm
going back to abpw to
look closer at what you posted!

Bill

On 11/11/2013 4:38 PM, Bill wrote:


Thanks Doug. I misunderstood your message when I first read it. I'm
going back to abpw to
look closer at what you posted!


Run, don't walk. Absolutely some beautiful work on a table top.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use
mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane
with - or even without - a shooting board.

What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on glued-up
boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen lighting.. You
almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer, so I'm definitely
still listening.

Bill

Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use
mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane
with - or even without - a shooting board.

What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on glued-up
boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen lighting..
You almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer, so I'm
definitely still listening.

Bill
I saw some of Doug Winterburn's posts at abpw. He makes a good case
(thanks Doug).

Bill

Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use
mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane
with - or even without - a shooting board.

What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on glued-up
boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen lighting.. You
almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer, so I'm
definitely still listening.


Pay attention Bill - it has nothing to do with lighting. Here's a hint -
(we've all cheated and done this...) DAGS how to cut a jointed edge on a
table saw. You'll need a simple jig, but it's the simple starting point
you're asking about.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use
mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane
with - or even without - a shooting board.

What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on glued-up
boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen lighting.. You
almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer, so I'm
definitely still listening.


BTW Bill - since none of us are made out of money, and we have to prioritize
our purchases, a jointer should be way down on your list. Get yourself a
decent table saw first. You don't have to hit Karl or Leon's level of tool
snobery - a decent 30 year old Craftsman Model 10 will yield suprising
results if you take an hour or so to set it up, and put a good blade on it.
Then - you can cut glue joints right on that saw. Don't believe me? Hell -
ask Karl.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use
mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane
with - or even without - a shooting board.
What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on glued-up
boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen lighting.. You
almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer, so I'm
definitely still listening.

Pay attention Bill - it has nothing to do with lighting. Here's a hint -
(we've all cheated and done this...) DAGS how to cut a jointed edge on a
table saw.

I'm talking about getting a flat face on a 5-foot length of lumber, not
an edge. If you don't like the question, please ignore it.

You'll need a simple jig, but it's the simple starting point
you're asking about.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do an
adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often use
mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a hand plane
with - or even without - a shooting board.
What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on glued-up
boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen lighting.. You
almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer, so I'm
definitely still listening.

BTW Bill - since none of us are made out of money, and we have to prioritize
our purchases, a jointer should be way down on your list. Get yourself a
decent table saw first.
That's what I'm planning on doing. I will order a Grizzly G0691 (52")
as soon as they have a (real) sale. I had been planning on the G0690
(32"), but I just can't pass up the extra capacity for $80. The real
cost is the "larger footprint" of the saw.

Bill



You don't have to hit Karl or Leon's level of tool
snobery - a decent 30 year old Craftsman Model 10 will yield suprising
results if you take an hour or so to set it up, and put a good blade on it.
Then - you can cut glue joints right on that saw. Don't believe me? Hell -
ask Karl.

"Mike Marlow" wrote:


BTW Bill - since none of us are made out of money, and we have to
prioritize our purchases, a jointer should be way down on your list.
Get yourself a decent table saw first.
--------------------------------------------------------
A-Men.

------------------------------------------------------
- a decent 30 year old Craftsman Model 10 will yield suprising
results if you take an hour or so to set it up, and put a good blade
on it.
-----------------------------------------------------
Every time you want to make a cut.

BTDT.

Had a 1950's model for years.

Didn't realize what I had been missing until I started using a Delta
with a Unifence.

Find a 15-20 year old Delta Contractor's saw with a Unifence
and you will have hit the mother lode IMHO.
-------------------------------------------------------
Then - you can cut glue joints right on that saw. Don't believe me?
Hell - ask Karl.
-------------------------------------------------------
A straight fwd jig.

Check the WoodSmithShop for a pdf file with a set of build dwgs.

Lew

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do
an adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often
use mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a
hand plane with - or even without - a shooting board.
What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on
glued-up boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen
lighting.. You almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer,
so I'm definitely still listening.

Pay attention Bill - it has nothing to do with lighting. Here's a
hint - (we've all cheated and done this...) DAGS how to cut a
jointed edge on a table saw.

I'm talking about getting a flat face on a 5-foot length of lumber,
not an edge. If you don't like the question, please ignore it.


Perhaps, my mistake. Your use of the quoted term "first face" was a bit
misleading. Usually when jointing, we're talking about edges.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
BTW, the lack of a joiner is NP. A saw with a decent blade can do
an adequate job on the edges. If not, a router table will (I often
use mine to join edges rather than using my joiner). So will a
hand plane with - or even without - a shooting board.
What about the "first face" on 5-foot lengths of lumber that needs
work? I suspect I could plane a reasonably flat surface on
glued-up boards. The results might depend a little on the kitchen
lighting.. You almost talked me out of thinking I needed a jointer,
so I'm definitely still listening.

Pay attention Bill - it has nothing to do with lighting. Here's a
hint - (we've all cheated and done this...) DAGS how to cut a
jointed edge on a table saw.
I'm talking about getting a flat face on a 5-foot length of lumber,
not an edge. If you don't like the question, please ignore it.

Perhaps, my mistake. Your use of the quoted term "first face" was a bit
misleading. Usually when jointing, we're talking about edges.
no problem.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
A straight fwd jig. Check the WoodSmithShop for a pdf file with a set
of build dwgs. Lew

Thank you, I'll look it up. BTW, that router table you mentioned from
NYW looks a lot like a piece of furniture for a router table! : )

"Bill" wrote:

A straight fwd jig. Check the WoodSmithShop for a pdf file with a
set of build dwgs. Lew

Thank you, I'll look it up. BTW, that router table you mentioned
from NYW looks a lot like a piece of furniture for a router table!
-----------------------------------
You expect less from Norm & the NYW team?

Lew