Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

On 9/9/13 11:20 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?


The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far with
a ROS without a lot of practice.

That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to sand.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Thanks, Mike. I think I know where my sanding block is :-)

Gramps' shop wrote:
Thanks, Mike. I think I know where my sanding block is
:-)

try a damp sponge, too.....less dust

On 9/10/2013 1:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/9/13 11:20 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?


The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far with
a ROS without a lot of practice.

That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to sand.



I used 150 grit (screen) on the setting/taping coat, and 220 grit on the
final coat with good results. Important to go in a circular pattern to
avoid leaving grooves. I've seen others complain that the screens
leave defects (before painting), but I think they must not have used a
good primer. My experience is limited to one 600 square foot project. If
you can spend a little for a sanding pad you can attach to a shop vac,
you would enjoy it very much--but you don't have that much to do (maybe
you can borrow one?) As suggested, "wet sanding" may be even better
(for the last of it).

Bill

Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

None at all except for the massive amounts of dust you'll create - and
potentially burning up your ROS from the flour-like dust getting into the
bearings. Very abrasive.

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark

On 9/10/2013 12:04 AM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Thanks, Mike. I think I know where my sanding block is :-)



Actually I have done similar repairs but used a finish sander with very
good results.

On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

Took me longer to attach the paper to the block than it did to do the actual sanding. Looks good ... now the paint.


On Tuesday, September 10, 2013 11:40:47 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:

On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"

wrote:



Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?



A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.



Mark







Does that work after the mud has dried?

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint
compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

yes

On Tue, 10 Sep 2013 11:40:47 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

Yes, I use Easy Sand 90 for the first coat, my sponge method if
satisfied then I prime, then finishing compound and sponge, prime
again.

If I take my time and take off my glasses (being nearsighted in one
eye and 20/20 in the other) to inspect you won't see the repair.

Mark

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message

On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint
compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and
cleaner. Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

Yes, as long as you use drying compound vs setting. The only thing holding
the calcium carbonate particles together in drying compound is starch. It
melts again easily.

Setting compound is thin gypsum plaster (calcium sulfate); the water causes
a chemical bonding and it won't melt after setting.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 9/10/2013 1:32 PM, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 10 Sep 2013 11:40:47 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

Yes, I use Easy Sand 90 for the first coat, my sponge method if
satisfied then I prime, then finishing compound and sponge, prime
again.

If I take my time and take off my glasses (being nearsighted in one
eye and 20/20 in the other) to inspect you won't see the repair.

Mark



Hummmmmm, I'll have to remember that the next time our Great Dane or my
wife gets excited and knocks a hole in the wall. I had to repair 3
holes in our other home.

On Tue, 10 Sep 2013 11:40:47 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

You better believe It does. It even works with Durabond, too.

In my experience there are two conditions that need to be met to make
using a damp sponge more desirable than sanding with a screen, an
abrasive pad or sand paper. The first thing is the application of the
compound needs to be relatively smooth and the second thing is the
sponge cannot be too wet.

If the application of compound was too thick or too inconsistent I use
an abrasive and clean up the mess. If the sponge is too wet you will
either just smear the compound around or you will take off too much in
one area. It takes practice. I've done a lot of drywall repair and
replacement and I still prefer to do the majority of the work with an
abrasive.

On 9/10/2013 1:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/9/13 11:20 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?


The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far with
a ROS without a lot of practice.

That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to sand.


Yep, and one more thing, dry wall dust is not like sanding dust.
It's much more abrasive, and would probaby destroy your sander (not
immediately) but as the dust keeps working at the bearings etc.

I use a dustless system, its a bucket with water, and a hand sander. The
dust gets sucked up by the pad into the bucket of water. A shop vac is
attached... That's the way to go.

--
Jeff

On 9/10/2013 2:14 PM, ChairMan wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint
compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

yes


yes, but it is not as nice as a sanded finish. you can get wavey
results. it all depends on how good you are at scultping, because that
is what it amounts to some times... I tried that, not as nice.
Acceptable for a few .. much longer than having the right equipment.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 9/10/2013 1:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/9/13 11:20 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?


The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far with
a ROS without a lot of practice.

That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to sand.


Yep, and one more thing, dry wall dust is not like sanding dust.
It's much more abrasive, and would probaby destroy your sander (not
immediately) but as the dust keeps working at the bearings etc.

I use a dustless system, its a bucket with water, and a hand sander.
The dust gets sucked up by the pad into the bucket of water. A shop
vac is attached... That's the way to go.
I tried using water in the shop vac at first, but the filter clogged. I
found that the special "drywall" bags for the shop vac worked perfectly
(2 bags for about $15).

On Tue, 10 Sep 2013 20:51:19 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 9/10/2013 1:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/9/13 11:20 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?


The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far with
a ROS without a lot of practice.

That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to sand.


Yep, and one more thing, dry wall dust is not like sanding dust.
It's much more abrasive, and would probaby destroy your sander (not
immediately) but as the dust keeps working at the bearings etc.

My thoughts exactly.

I use a dustless system, its a bucket with water, and a hand sander. The
dust gets sucked up by the pad into the bucket of water. A shop vac is
attached... That's the way to go.

I have one that just attaches to a shop vac. As Bill notes, it does
plug up but it takes a lot of dust to do it. It's not difficult,
though a bit messy, to clean. When the job is done, pitch the filter.
Oh, and use the drywall filters. The standard filters are too coarse
and the vac will pump the finest dust everywhere. DAMHIK.

The water filter sounds like a good idea, though with pre-mixed mud it
must make a real sludgy mess.

On Tue, 10 Sep 2013 11:40:47 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/10/2013 9:27 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 9 Sep 2013 21:20:25 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?

A bucket of water and a sponge is fast, easy and cleaner.

Mark



Does that work after the mud has dried?

Premixed mud, sure. Mix-it-yourself stuff contains Plaster of Paris,
so not so much.

On 9/10/2013 10:37 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 9/10/2013 1:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/9/13 11:20 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?


The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far with
a ROS without a lot of practice.

That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to sand.


Yep, and one more thing, dry wall dust is not like sanding dust.
It's much more abrasive, and would probaby destroy your sander (not
immediately) but as the dust keeps working at the bearings etc.

I use a dustless system, its a bucket with water, and a hand sander.
The dust gets sucked up by the pad into the bucket of water. A shop
vac is attached... That's the way to go.
I tried using water in the shop vac at first, but the filter clogged. I
found that the special "drywall" bags for the shop vac worked perfectly
(2 bags for about $15).


This system is not water in the shop vac, it's a pre-system before the
vac. Otherwise you'll just fill the filter with the mud.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 9/10/2013 10:37 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 9/10/2013 1:03 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/9/13 11:20 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Any reason not to use my ROS to smooth out the joint compound on a
small -- 12x10 -- drywall repair?


The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far
with
a ROS without a lot of practice.

That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be
done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to
sand.


Yep, and one more thing, dry wall dust is not like sanding dust.
It's much more abrasive, and would probaby destroy your sander (not
immediately) but as the dust keeps working at the bearings etc.

I use a dustless system, its a bucket with water, and a hand sander.
The dust gets sucked up by the pad into the bucket of water. A shop
vac is attached... That's the way to go.
I tried using water in the shop vac at first, but the filter clogged. I
found that the special "drywall" bags for the shop vac worked perfectly
(2 bags for about $15).


This system is not water in the shop vac, it's a pre-system before the
vac. Otherwise you'll just fill the filter with the mud.

Yes, Jeff. I understood that what you did was different than what I did.
The directions that came with my pole sander said that "water in the
shop vac" would work with it, but that a drywall bag would work better.
I would say that the water in the shop vac was a "total failure". Your
approach reminds me of those (saw) dust collection canisters folks use.
It makes good sense.

Bill