On Tue, 01 Oct 2013 19:43:16 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 10/01/2013 01:17 PM, Bill wrote:

I picked up the Trex decking last week, now I am waiting on the screws
(dum-de-dum-dum)--would have been nice if the salesman asked me if I
needed matching screws! I took it for granted they would have them in
the store. It also would have been nice if he had handed me back my
credit card, but there it was lying on their counter 2 1/2 hours later,
he was long gone. I picked up my card and sought a salesperson..and he
asked to see my ID. YES, It was at Home Depot. And YES, I feel lucky
that I wasn't arrested for stealing my credit card!!!

But the reason for my post is this "adjustable screw depth setter" I ran
across:

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...68-c-10156.htm



Is this accessory the secret to beautiful deck screws (that is, will it
give superior results compared to the clutch on my Bosch drill)? Note: I
will be using "square head" deck screws. Can I (I mean, dare I?) use it
with my impact driver?

Thank you,
Bill


Might take a look at this:

http://www.kregtool.com/deck-jig-and...-prodlist.html

I was going to inquire why the manufacturer of Trex suggests spacing the
decking 3/8" apart (in climates that get below 40 degrees). But it
occurs to me that the answer must be concern about *ice*. I would have
been inclined to push them closer together than that. Certainly the
previous installer did--I had to *pry* out the old "planks" of Trex.

It turns out it was rusted screws (probably not galvanized) that broke
which led to one end of each of the two 21" beams (with 16" between
centers) giving out which led to my warped decking.

I would use stainless but I tend to over-build things. I really don't
like doing a job like this twice. Once is kinda fun but the next
time, I'd rather be tackling a new project.

I'm replacing the
beams, of course. It's all clean and ready to go. Actually, I suspect
the house-seller knew about what was broken and just did a cosmetic
repair since there were only screws on each end of the Trex. That would
be consistent with his sense of "style" exhibited in some other areas...

Quite likely. I did that to the house I'm currently selling (they're
renting for a year, first - long story). I replaced the decking on
two of four sections of deck (all PT). The other two sections were
better so I just replaced a few boards that needed it, then threw a
coat of stain on the whole thing (and attached screened-in porch). If
I were staying, I would have done it right, with Trex and stainless.

If I could start over I would do the repair with cheaper
decking/screws. It's pretty stuff though. I'll try not to muck it up
with over-driven screws.

I wouldn't. For my use, I either do it right or wait until I can
afford to.

I bought an appropriate new saw blade today. The pieces are coming
together *slowly*, but surely. Thanks for all your help!

On 10/1/2013 7:43 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 10/01/2013 01:17 PM, Bill wrote:

I picked up the Trex decking last week, now I am waiting on the screws
(dum-de-dum-dum)--would have been nice if the salesman asked me if I
needed matching screws! I took it for granted they would have them in
the store. It also would have been nice if he had handed me back my
credit card, but there it was lying on their counter 2 1/2 hours later,
he was long gone. I picked up my card and sought a salesperson..and he
asked to see my ID. YES, It was at Home Depot. And YES, I feel lucky
that I wasn't arrested for stealing my credit card!!!

But the reason for my post is this "adjustable screw depth setter" I ran
across:

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...68-c-10156.htm



Is this accessory the secret to beautiful deck screws (that is, will it
give superior results compared to the clutch on my Bosch drill)? Note: I
will be using "square head" deck screws. Can I (I mean, dare I?) use it
with my impact driver?

Thank you,
Bill


Might take a look at this:

http://www.kregtool.com/deck-jig-and...-prodlist.html

I was going to inquire why the manufacturer of Trex suggests spacing the
decking 3/8" apart (in climates that get below 40 degrees). But it
occurs to me that the answer must be concern about *ice*.
Another reason. While wood is moisture sensitive, trex is heat
sensitive. So it expands and contracts.

Not just ice, snow too.

I would have
been inclined to push them closer together than that. Certainly the
previous installer did--I had to *pry* out the old "planks" of Trex.

It turns out it was rusted screws (probably not galvanized) that broke
which led to one end of each of the two 21" beams (with 16" between
centers) giving out which led to my warped decking. I'm replacing the
beams, of course. It's all clean and ready to go. Actually, I suspect
the house-seller knew about what was broken and just did a cosmetic
repair since there were only screws on each end of the Trex. That would
be consistent with his sense of "style" exhibited in some other areas...

If I could start over I would do the repair with cheaper
decking/screws. It's pretty stuff though. I'll try not to muck it up
with over-driven screws.

I bought an appropriate new saw blade today. The pieces are coming
together *slowly*, but surely. Thanks for all your help!

Bill


Trex is easy to work with. I built a side table to some lounge chairs
out of it, because of the weight a small table can hold an umbrella
without tipping in the wind... The stuff works like butta...
One tip, if you are doing any miter joints or anything that needs gluing
use liquid nails, holds well. your repair won't require it, but I just
thought if you realize how versatile trex can be.

I am thinking about making a wrap around chair (around my oak tree) the
old wood one rotted away, the next one might be trex.

--
Jeff

On 10/2/2013 5:39 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 01 Oct 2013 19:43:16 -0400, Bill

If I could start over I would do the repair with cheaper
decking/screws. It's pretty stuff though. I'll try not to muck it up
with over-driven screws.

I wouldn't. For my use, I either do it right or wait until I can
afford to.



When I bought my 16' plank of Trex decking for $51, I didn't know that
the smallest order of matching screws I could buy was 370. These were at
a cost of $33. I am embarrassed, but I will have 330 screws "for sale"!

However, in view of these costs, I bought 4 right-angle corner "braces"
($20), and $6 worth of SS screws to install them. Plus another $6 worth
of SS screws for the joist hangers ($5).

Plus $20 for a Irwin Marathon 10" saw blade which you "discredited"
yesterday in another thread! But it's description said "It was designed
for decking" (mayby you should try it for that?)

I'll pick up a treated 2by4 today, and be good to go!

By the way, attaching 2 4-foot pipe clamps together I was able to "snug
up" the box (people have asked me why one would want to attach them--so
here ya go-- I also did not that on my workbench for both a disassembly
and a reassembly).

Cheers,
Bill

On 10/2/2013 9:18 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/1/2013 7:43 PM, Bill wrote:

I was going to inquire why the manufacturer of Trex suggests spacing the
decking 3/8" apart (in climates that get below 40 degrees). But it
occurs to me that the answer must be concern about *ice*.
Another reason. While wood is moisture sensitive, trex is heat
sensitive. So it expands and contracts.

Not just ice, snow too.


Makes sense! Thanks Jeff!

Bill wrote:
On 10/2/2013 5:39 PM, wrote:

Plus $20 for a Irwin Marathon 10" saw blade which you "discredited"
yesterday in another thread! But it's description said "It was
designed for decking" (mayby you should try it for that?)


Allow me to correct myself, It was PuckDropper, not krw, that "sort of
sneered" at this saw blade. Hope the carbide doesn't fall off, or fly
off of mine!

Bll

On 9/8/2013 5:31 PM, Bill wrote:
SWMBO left heavy flower pots on each end of our 48" unsupported step
made out of Trex this summer, and the Trex boards warped (very bad--more
than 2").

The design looks poor, so that's where I'll point the blame. ; )

Here is a drawing of the current design along with my proposed solution:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/deckstep.jpg

Question:

Pre-Drill EVERYTHING (decking, braces, etc.) to avoid "splitting", right???

Thanks!

Bill wrote in
:

Bill wrote:
On 10/2/2013 5:39 PM, wrote:

Plus $20 for a Irwin Marathon 10" saw blade which you "discredited"
yesterday in another thread! But it's description said "It was
designed for decking" (mayby you should try it for that?)


Allow me to correct myself, It was PuckDropper, not krw, that "sort of
sneered" at this saw blade. Hope the carbide doesn't fall off, or fly
off of mine!

Bll

Out of 4 Marathon blades, I've had 1 piece of carbide come off.

The Marathon blades are good blades but not great ones. A new blade will
get you through your project just fine.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

Bill wrote:
On 10/2/2013 5:39 PM, wrote:

Plus $20 for a Irwin Marathon 10" saw blade which you "discredited"
yesterday in another thread! But it's description said "It was
designed for decking" (mayby you should try it for that?)

Allow me to correct myself, It was PuckDropper, not krw, that "sort of
sneered" at this saw blade. Hope the carbide doesn't fall off, or fly
off of mine!

Bll
Out of 4 Marathon blades, I've had 1 piece of carbide come off.

The Marathon blades are good blades but not great ones. A new blade will
get you through your project just fine.
Thanks! 'ppreciate it!

Bill


Puckdropper

On Thu, 03 Oct 2013 13:31:40 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
On 10/2/2013 5:39 PM, wrote:

Plus $20 for a Irwin Marathon 10" saw blade which you "discredited"
yesterday in another thread! But it's description said "It was
designed for decking" (mayby you should try it for that?)


Allow me to correct myself, It was PuckDropper, not krw, that "sort of
sneered" at this saw blade. Hope the carbide doesn't fall off, or fly
off of mine!

I wouldn't worry about it. I'd buy a cheap blade (if I didn't already
have a bunch) for this sort of work, too. It'll be fine. I wouldn't
use it for fine woodworking after but don't throw it away after,
either.

wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2013 13:31:40 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
On 10/2/2013 5:39 PM, wrote:

Plus $20 for a Irwin Marathon 10" saw blade which you "discredited"
yesterday in another thread! But it's description said "It was
designed for decking" (mayby you should try it for that?)

Allow me to correct myself, It was PuckDropper, not krw, that "sort of
sneered" at this saw blade. Hope the carbide doesn't fall off, or fly
off of mine!
I wouldn't worry about it. I'd buy a cheap blade (if I didn't already
have a bunch) for this sort of work, too. It'll be fine. I wouldn't
use it for fine woodworking after but don't throw it away after,
either.
My feelings exactly!

What about "pre-drilling" for the numerous (~50) 1 1/4" #12 screws, for
the joist hangers and corner brackets? Good idea (I think so)?

I have almost everything I need; the fun part starts tomorrow! : )

Bill

On Thu, 03 Oct 2013 21:36:10 -0400, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2013 13:31:40 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
On 10/2/2013 5:39 PM, wrote:

Plus $20 for a Irwin Marathon 10" saw blade which you "discredited"
yesterday in another thread! But it's description said "It was
designed for decking" (mayby you should try it for that?)

Allow me to correct myself, It was PuckDropper, not krw, that "sort of
sneered" at this saw blade. Hope the carbide doesn't fall off, or fly
off of mine!
I wouldn't worry about it. I'd buy a cheap blade (if I didn't already
have a bunch) for this sort of work, too. It'll be fine. I wouldn't
use it for fine woodworking after but don't throw it away after,
either.
My feelings exactly!

What about "pre-drilling" for the numerous (~50) 1 1/4" #12 screws, for
the joist hangers and corner brackets? Good idea (I think so)?

Always. I generally pre-drill with a much smaller bit than is usually
recommended, though.

I have almost everything I need; the fun part starts tomorrow! : )

I always enjoy such jobs, at least once I get into it. Getting
motivated is sometimes tough. ;-)

I have to replace the (Hardie) siding on one side of my house this
fall. I'm not looking forward to that but the hardest part will
probably be getting it home. The bed on the truck is only 6-1/2' (8'
tailgate down). I'm going to have to make something to support the
back. Then paint. Ick. See, I'm already talking myself out of it.
;-)

On 10/3/2013 10:16 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2013 21:36:10 -0400, Bill

What about "pre-drilling" for the numerous (~50) 1 1/4" #12 screws, for
the joist hangers and corner brackets? Good idea (I think so)?

Always. I generally pre-drill with a much smaller bit than is usually
recommended, though.

I have almost everything I need; the fun part starts tomorrow! : )

I always enjoy such jobs, at least once I get into it. Getting
motivated is sometimes tough. ;-)





I have to replace the (Hardie) siding on one side of my house this
fall. I'm not looking forward to that but the hardest part will
probably be getting it home. The bed on the truck is only 6-1/2' (8'
tailgate down). I'm going to have to make something to support the
back. Then paint. Ick. See, I'm already talking myself out of it.
;-)


I think I'm learning that's it's better to get to work quickly.
Otherwise, by the time one "re-lives" or "re-experiences" the job 25
times in his or her mind, getting started to seem like work. Or to put
it another way, "finishing" starts to seem like work. One ends of
solving the same problems multiple times, I think. Waste of time. In
my limited experience, "He who hesitates will pay a cost for it".

Bill

On 10/4/2013 7:58 AM, Bill wrote:
On 10/3/2013 10:16 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2013 21:36:10 -0400, Bill

What about "pre-drilling" for the numerous (~50) 1 1/4" #12 screws, for
the joist hangers and corner brackets? Good idea (I think so)?

Always. I generally pre-drill with a much smaller bit than is usually
recommended, though.

I have almost everything I need; the fun part starts tomorrow! : )

I always enjoy such jobs, at least once I get into it. Getting
motivated is sometimes tough. ;-)





I have to replace the (Hardie) siding on one side of my house this
fall. I'm not looking forward to that but the hardest part will
probably be getting it home. The bed on the truck is only 6-1/2' (8'
tailgate down). I'm going to have to make something to support the
back. Then paint. Ick. See, I'm already talking myself out of it.
;-)


I think I'm learning that's it's better to get to work quickly.
Otherwise, by the time one "re-lives" or "re-experiences" the job 25
times in his or her mind, getting started to seem like work. Or to put
it another way, "finishing" starts to seem like work. One ends of
solving the same problems multiple times, I think. Waste of time. In
my limited experience, "He who hesitates will pay a cost for it".

Bill


Finally, now you get it. And if you make mistakes, you learn anyway. And
fixing your mistakes is part of being a good craftsman.

--
Jeff

On Fri, 04 Oct 2013 07:58:59 -0400, Bill
wrote:

On 10/3/2013 10:16 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2013 21:36:10 -0400, Bill

What about "pre-drilling" for the numerous (~50) 1 1/4" #12 screws, for
the joist hangers and corner brackets? Good idea (I think so)?

Always. I generally pre-drill with a much smaller bit than is usually
recommended, though.

I have almost everything I need; the fun part starts tomorrow! : )

I always enjoy such jobs, at least once I get into it. Getting
motivated is sometimes tough. ;-)





I have to replace the (Hardie) siding on one side of my house this
fall. I'm not looking forward to that but the hardest part will
probably be getting it home. The bed on the truck is only 6-1/2' (8'
tailgate down). I'm going to have to make something to support the
back. Then paint. Ick. See, I'm already talking myself out of it.
;-)


I think I'm learning that's it's better to get to work quickly.
Otherwise, by the time one "re-lives" or "re-experiences" the job 25
times in his or her mind, getting started to seem like work. Or to put
it another way, "finishing" starts to seem like work. One ends of
solving the same problems multiple times, I think. Waste of time. In
my limited experience, "He who hesitates will pay a cost for it".

There is a lot of truth to that. I also like to plan ahead (as much
as possible). Summers are simply too hot to do siding but now that
the weather has changed, I'm still not in a big rush. ;-) As I
indicated before, I still have to figure out how to get the siding
home. I'll probably lay out the job Sunday (I get back home tomorrow
afternoon).

woodchucker wrote:
On 10/4/2013 7:58 AM, Bill wrote:

I think I'm learning that's it's better to get to work quickly.
Otherwise, by the time one "re-lives" or "re-experiences" the job 25
times in his or her mind, getting started to seem like work. Or to put
it another way, "finishing" starts to seem like work. One ends of
solving the same problems multiple times, I think. Waste of time. In
my limited experience, "He who hesitates will pay a cost for it".

Bill


Finally, now you get it. And if you make mistakes, you learn anyway.
And fixing your mistakes is part of being a good craftsman.

Yes, yes, yes! I agree with what you wrote. But to share a line I
read this week:

"You'll never paint with oil better than you can draw."

Actually, it was more like, "The extente of one's oil painting will not
exceed that of one's drawing.."--but I was unable to locate my source (I
believe I may have read it while browsing book samples at Amazon).
Maybe we should update it to: "You'll never build something
substantially better than you can design with SketchUp! : )

BTW, I would be working on my deck except I got "rained out" (weatherman
is not on my side this weekend).

Cheers,
Bill