Enjoy

Lew
---------------------------------------------


http://youtu.be/3lScGEKqAsE

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Enjoy

Lew
---------------------------------------------


http://youtu.be/3lScGEKqAsE



Thank you, Lew. I enjoyed it and saved it so I can watch it again!
His approach of cutting a dado for the base of the A-frame is noteworthy.

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Enjoy

Lew
---------------------------------------------


http://youtu.be/3lScGEKqAsE



Thank you, Lew. I enjoyed it and saved it so I can watch it again!
His approach of cutting a dado for the base of the A-frame is
noteworthy.

----------------------------------------------------
This will get the details

http://tinyurl.com/ba44xe8

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message
...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Enjoy

Lew
---------------------------------------------


http://youtu.be/3lScGEKqAsE


Thank you, Lew. I enjoyed it and saved it so I can watch it again!
His approach of cutting a dado for the base of the A-frame is
noteworthy.

----------------------------------------------------
This will get the details

http://tinyurl.com/ba44xe8


I enjoyed when we "crowd-sourced" a design a while back. I still have
your ideas on the topic too.
I will take what I learned from the video and "crowd-source" it a little
more! If I did otherwise, and
ordered the measured-plan, I think I'd be cheating myself out of a
valuable opportunity to grow a little bit.

I do admit however that if I didn't believe that I could play the
tune, I'd buy the tab (cheat sheet).
Thank you again for providing a link to the video!

Bill

That's a pretty good instruction video. Thanks for posting.

Work table construction: On the leg attaching to the table top, Norm used 1 1/4" screws to attach the 3/4" ply legs. I would have used 1 1/2" or 1 5/8"screws.

I like that set & release caster application, too. I may try to modify one of my tables with that.

On the clamp rack, before cutting dados for the A-frame seating, maybe first assemble the A-frame and place it on the plywood base. Use the A-frame footprint to mark where the dados will be. Unless you build the A-frame's footprint to exact dimensions for predetermined/precut dados, the A-frame may not fit into the dados.

My clamp cart is so heavy, with all the clamps on it, it is sometimes an albatross, itself. Initially, 2" casters just didn't function, for the weight. 3" casters are a little better. 4" would probably be best, for me. Any larger casters would/might make for placing the casters too far inside the base's perimeter, hence possibly having top heavy problems of tilting over easily. My cart is 41"L X 24"W X 51"H.

Sonny

On 3/10/2013 10:29 AM, Sonny wrote:
That's a pretty good instruction video. Thanks for posting.

Work table construction: On the leg attaching to the table top, Norm used 1 1/4" screws to attach the 3/4" ply legs. I would have used 1 1/2" or 1 5/8"screws.

I like that set & release caster application, too. I may try to modify one of my tables with that.

That really is a clever way of doing it and Normie Boy executed it quite
nicely.

Sonny wrote:
That's a pretty good instruction video. Thanks for posting.

Work table construction: On the leg attaching to the table top, Norm
used 1 1/4" screws to attach the 3/4" ply legs. I would have used 1
1/2" or 1 5/8"screws.

Didn't he just screw into 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood? If that's the case, then
1 1/4" is plenty sufficient. Especially after the head is countersunk. You
only have 1 1/2" to work with if in fact it was 2 pieces of 3/4".



I like that set & release caster application, too. I may try to
modify one of my tables with that.


I like it too.

On the clamp rack, before cutting dados for the A-frame seating,
maybe first assemble the A-frame and place it on the plywood base.
Use the A-frame footprint to mark where the dados will be. Unless
you build the A-frame's footprint to exact dimensions for
predetermined/precut dados, the A-frame may not fit into the dados.


Oh don't be such a chicken! That's what sawdust and wood glue are for!
Fill 'em in and cut new ones.



--

-Mike-

On Sunday, March 10, 2013 10:58:21 AM UTC-6, Mike Marlow wrote:
Didn't he just screw into 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood?

Yep.

If that's the case, then 1 1/4" is plenty sufficient. Especially after the head is countersunk. You only have 1 1/2" to work with if in fact it was 2 pieces of 3/4".

Yeah, I often overthink prevention and take precautionary measures, to prevent repeating past mishaps. Looks like he used course thread drywall screws. The tips are tapered, about 1/4" in length. Despite being countersunk, a full diameter of thread would not be biting into the wood at the tip end of the screw. Too often, I've had those shorter screws strip out. Using a longer screw makes for a bit more full diameter of bite and less chance to strip out, especially when I'm not careful during insertion.

What we may not be seeing, in those videos, is how many of those drywall screws stripped out or how many heads broke off.

Sonny

"Sonny" wrote:

That's a pretty good instruction video. Thanks for posting.
----------------------------------------------------
Thank you.

NYW does a good job with their videos IMHO.

I have bought several sets of their plans but never the video
portion.

Have always found the drawings to be well thought out, complete,
well engineered and well worth the cost.

This project especially, for $25 you get a video and 2 sets of
drawings.

Can't beat it with a stick IMHO.

When it comes to free plans or design your own plans,
it's a case of false economy IMHO.

Make a mistake that wastes a sheet of plywood and it will
cost more to replace it than the cost of the plans.
-------------------------------------------------------
Work table construction: On the leg attaching to the table top, Norm
used 1 1/4" screws to attach the 3/4" ply legs. I would have used 1
1/2" or 1 5/8"screws.
---------------------------------------------------------
You only have a 3/4" piece of plywood to attach the legs.

You are stuck with 1-1/4" screws which IMHO, is a weak point
in the design; however, simple to resolve.

Time for some glue.

I would also add a 3/4" x 1-1/2" shear block, glued and screwed
to the leg under the table to further increase the shear strength
of the leg/table joint.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I like that set & release caster application, too. I may try to
modify one of my tables with that.
------------------------------------------------------
On the clamp rack, before cutting dados for the A-frame seating,
maybe first assemble the A-frame and place it on the plywood base.
Use the A-frame footprint to mark where the dados will be. Unless
you build the A-frame's footprint to exact dimensions for
predetermined/precut dados, the A-frame may not fit into the dados.
-----------------------------------------------------
When it comes to the geometry of the assembly, I'll stick with
NYW dimensions and ass'y methods.

Any bugs in the design have long ago been resolved.
-------------------------------------------------
My clamp cart is so heavy, with all the clamps on it, it is sometimes
an albatross, itself. Initially, 2" casters just didn't function, for
the weight. 3" casters are a little better. 4" would probably be
best, for me. Any larger casters would/might make for placing the
casters too far inside the base's perimeter, hence possibly having top
heavy problems of tilting over easily. My cart is 41"L X 24"W X 51"H.
----------------------------------------------------
I'm with you, I like 4" casters.

Also like 4" casters for the ass'y table.

Lew