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Default A woodworking tip

As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best. A few years ago I
discovered day-glow orange masking tape. This tape catches you eye and
is great for numbering pieces and or indicating a pencil mark for cutting.

While pretty expensive I seldom use long lengths and a roll will
typically lase a year when I am busy. About $8 per roll. About 3
months ago I had my wife pick up a roll at the hardware store and she
could not believe that the stuff was $8 per roll! Back in December she
assisted me with the airplane project which had countless track saw cuts
on cobalt blue and brushed steel grey plastic laminate. Pencil marks
are very difficult to see on those colors. She saw me use the orange
tape to mark my cuts and she instantly agreed that the orange tale was
worth every penny. She gave an extra roll of orange tape for Christmas.
Woopee.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...in/photostream
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Default A woodworking tip

On Feb 7, 2:50*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.


This is why I still use Crayolas.

Robert

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Default A woodworking tip


wrote in message
...
On Feb 7, 2:50 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.


This is why I still use Crayolas.

Robert

It's good when you can stay inside the lines.


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Default A woodworking tip

On 2/7/2013 5:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Feb 7, 2:50 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.


This is why I still use Crayolas.

Robert

It's good when you can stay inside the lines.


Does the wax from the crayolas effect the subsequent finishing of the wood?

If so how do you remove it?


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On Thu, 07 Feb 2013 14:50:27 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
worth every penny. She gave an extra roll of orange tape for Christmas.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...in/photostream


Not sure if it's price or usable comparable, but Lee Valley sells
brightly coloured tape.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...p=67792&cat=51
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Dave wrote:
On Thu, 07 Feb 2013 14:50:27 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
worth every penny. She gave an extra roll of orange tape for Christmas.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...in/photostream


Not sure if it's price or usable comparable, but Lee Valley sells
brightly coloured tape.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...p=67792&cat=51


Nope, I'm using masking tape.

Less expensive here even with shipping..

http://www.mcmaster.com/#masking-tape/=ldpm7g
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On 2/7/2013 5:26 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2013 5:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Feb 7, 2:50 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.


This is why I still use Crayolas.

Robert

It's good when you can stay inside the lines.


Does the wax from the crayolas effect the subsequent finishing of the wood?

If so how do you remove it?



I think Nailshooter is referring to construction grade materials.
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On 2/8/2013 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/7/2013 5:26 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2013 5:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
wrote in message
...

On Feb 7, 2:50 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.

This is why I still use Crayolas.

Robert

It's good when you can stay inside the lines.


Does the wax from the crayolas effect the subsequent finishing of the
wood?

If so how do you remove it?



I think Nailshooter is referring to construction grade materials.


That's construction grade oak and walnut???

I've not seen either in construction since the (story I've told before)
discovery after an old schoolhouse was razed in Lynchburg, VA, back in
late '60s...went down to the site just to get a slate blackboard section
for the kids in the base but wandering around notice the large pile of
beams surely looked unusual, even given were over 100 yr old was
something other than just age. A little paring w/ the pocket knife
uncovered that they were, indeed black walnut (almost exclusively w/ a
few oaks of both red and white thrown in here or there as I discovered
while preparing some of it). Since was being sold as salvaged
construction material, I made an offer of $1000 for the entire pile and
was accepted (a lot of money in those days). In the end ended up w/
almost 15,000 bf of 8- to 12/4 roughsawn beams in lengths from 10 to 18
ft and widths from 6" to 10" w/ a set of 12 12/4 x 12" x 20' from the
large assembly room.

As for the question from previous respondent I would presume it's mostly
during the rough layout phase and the marks are removed by subsequent
milling operations for the question finishing problems. If there's
some left when time for finishing comes along a little thinner will take
care of it easily.

I use carpenters' crayons precisely the same way--keep at least a
red/yellow/black around all the time so have contrasting colors for the
particular surface...

Sharpies are good, too, for bandsaw layout lines--they make a nice,
crisp line that's easy to follow...

--
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On 2/8/2013 9:15 AM, dpb wrote:
On 2/8/2013 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/7/2013 5:26 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2013 5:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
wrote in message
...


On Feb 7, 2:50 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.

This is why I still use Crayolas.

Robert

It's good when you can stay inside the lines.


Does the wax from the crayolas effect the subsequent finishing of the
wood?

If so how do you remove it?



I think Nailshooter is referring to construction grade materials.


That's construction grade oak and walnut???

I've not seen either in construction since the (story I've told before)
discovery after an old schoolhouse was razed in Lynchburg, VA, back in
late '60s...went down to the site just to get a slate blackboard section
for the kids in the base but wandering around notice the large pile of
beams surely looked unusual, even given were over 100 yr old was
something other than just age. A little paring w/ the pocket knife
uncovered that they were, indeed black walnut (almost exclusively w/ a
few oaks of both red and white thrown in here or there as I discovered
while preparing some of it). Since was being sold as salvaged
construction material, I made an offer of $1000 for the entire pile and
was accepted (a lot of money in those days). In the end ended up w/
almost 15,000 bf of 8- to 12/4 roughsawn beams in lengths from 10 to 18
ft and widths from 6" to 10" w/ a set of 12 12/4 x 12" x 20' from the
large assembly room.

As for the question from previous respondent I would presume it's mostly
during the rough layout phase and the marks are removed by subsequent
milling operations for the question finishing problems. If there's
some left when time for finishing comes along a little thinner will take
care of it easily.

I use carpenters' crayons precisely the same way--keep at least a
red/yellow/black around all the time so have contrasting colors for the
particular surface...

Sharpies are good, too, for bandsaw layout lines--they make a nice,
crisp line that's easy to follow...

--

My marks on the orange tape are for final cuts.


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On Feb 8, 12:43*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

My marks on the orange tape are for final cuts.


All kidding aside Leon, I use masking tape and one of these in black"

http://www.dickblick.com/products/sh...e-point-marker

They are easily found at the local office supply store. Although they
say it is a 3mm point, these EASILY will draw a 1mm line.

I find the older my eyes get, the better things like this work for me.

Robert
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On Feb 7, 6:26*pm, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 2/7/2013 5:55 PM, Meanie wrote: wrote in message
....
On Feb 7, 2:50 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly
when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.
The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.


This is why I still use Crayolas.


Robert


It's good when you can stay inside the lines.


Does the wax from the crayolas effect the subsequent finishing of the wood?

If so how do you remove it?


You melt down the broken ones and pour them on as a finish.
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" wrote:
On Feb 8, 12:43 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

My marks on the orange tape are for final cuts.


All kidding aside Leon, I use masking tape and one of these in black"

http://www.dickblick.com/products/sh...e-point-marker

They are easily found at the local office supply store. Although they
say it is a 3mm point, these EASILY will draw a 1mm line.

I find the older my eyes get, the better things like this work for me.

Robert


Me too.. The orange catches my eye.
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On Thursday, February 7, 2013 5:40:26 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Feb 7, 2:50*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

As you know marking wood with a pencil has it's drawbacks particularly


when using a heavily grained wood like oak or a dark wood like walnut.


The pencil mark is difficult to see at best.




This is why I still use Crayolas.


Exactly. Measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, cut with an axe.
JP
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