Norminn wrote:

I tried spar varnish only once, and found it very thick and difficult to
brush out. I've used other varnishes countless times, and spar may be
different than what I experienced. The OP seems pretty unfamiliar with
wood finishing, so tips need to be made with that in mind.

I don't think I have ever varnished anything before.

moisture seepage needs to be sealed out.

The door will get soaking wet from rain so this is important!

Power sanders may be overkill for someone without some experience.

I have a Makita belt sander but I can not imagine using it on this
door due to the ins and outs of the molding. I might use it on the
sill but even then it might dig a huge hole before I know it.
I am ok with hand sanding though.

I suspect I start with the heavy grit. And then down to fine.
What is the heavy grit I should start from?
Wikipeidia has a list http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper

Does P50 look like a good starting point?
And maybe P220 as the final grit on the bare wood?

On 12/7/2012 9:24 AM, Tony Palermo wrote:
Norminn wrote:

I tried spar varnish only once, and found it very thick and difficult to
brush out. I've used other varnishes countless times, and spar may be
different than what I experienced. The OP seems pretty unfamiliar with
wood finishing, so tips need to be made with that in mind.

I don't think I have ever varnished anything before.

moisture seepage needs to be sealed out.

The door will get soaking wet from rain so this is important!

Power sanders may be overkill for someone without some experience.

I have a Makita belt sander but I can not imagine using it on this
door due to the ins and outs of the molding. I might use it on the
sill but even then it might dig a huge hole before I know it.
I am ok with hand sanding though.

I suspect I start with the heavy grit. And then down to fine.
What is the heavy grit I should start from?
Wikipeidia has a list http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper

Does P50 look like a good starting point?
And maybe P220 as the final grit on the bare wood?




Perhaps a more permanent solution, although a bit more expensive.
You have an inherent problem, call it an architectural design flaw.

Construct something to shield the door from direct sunlight and rain, a
covered approach.

The sunlight is doing more damage than the rain, it is there every day
all day long, the rain is not.

Leon wrote:

Construct something to shield the door from direct sunlight and rain, a
covered approach.

The roofline is tall above the door so I could construct a shade of some
sort.

But I would still need to stain, seal, and varnish the door!

On Friday, December 7, 2012 12:56:55 PM UTC-6, Tony Palermo wrote:
But I would still need to stain, seal, and varnish the door!

Leon may be on to something. If your doorway area can accommodate remodeling/adding to, to fend off the weather, and cost is not a problem, then remodeling would certainly help.

Why stain? The wood is naturally dark, already. More darkness, of the doorway, is not going to do much good, if any, for its protection against the elements. What is your concern, here, looks or protection against the elements? If your topcoat finish doesn't hold up against the weather, the stain under it is going to accomplish what?

A thinned marine finish (whichever one you choose) would be your initial sealant (apply two coats if there is doubt) and the subsequent non-thinned finish would be your (varnish) top coating. The thinned application and the non-thinned application are compatible, so you wouldn't have to worry about sealant-finish compatibility.

Sonny

On 12/7/2012 12:56 PM, Tony Palermo wrote:
Leon wrote:

Construct something to shield the door from direct sunlight and rain, a
covered approach.

The roofline is tall above the door so I could construct a shade of some
sort.

But I would still need to stain, seal, and varnish the door!



Yes you would still have to refinish the door however if yo keep the
direct sun light off you are also likely to keep a majority of rain the
rain off. However it is quite likely that this would be the last time
you have to refinish the door. My previous home had a front door that
was shaded from direct sun light and most of the rain, it never had to
be refinished during the 30 years that I lived there.

"Tony Palermo" wrote:

But I would still need to stain, seal, and varnish the door!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHY?

You will come to regret stain (Bug Snot) unless you sell the place
and pass the problem along.

Spar varnish is designed to remain flexible which is why it is used
on wooden spars. Definitely not a good choice for a door.

Sonny has outlined the path to glory.

A LOT of work, but truly the only way to go.

The marine finish of choice would be Epifanes.

Check out Jamestown Distributors for Epifanes info.

BTW, where is this property located as in how far South of the
Mason-Dixon Line?

Have fun.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:

You will come to regret stain (Bug Snot)
Why? What is wrong with darker door?

Spar varnish is designed to remain flexible
Definitely not a good choice for a door.
I think the UV protection is what I need more than varnish flex.
But UV protection might not be easy to decide from the can printing.

The marine finish of choice would be Epifanes.
Check out Jamestown Distributors for Epifanes info.

Does this look like the right stuff?
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...duct.do?pid=92

Epifanes clear marine spar varnish is formulated with tung oil, phenolic
and alkyd resins and U.V. filters for superior protection.

how far South of the Mason-Dixon Line?

San Diego. It never rains. But when it rains it pours.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

You will come to regret stain (Bug Snot)

-------------------------------------------------------
"Tony Palermo" wrote:

Why? What is wrong with darker door?
-------------------------------------------------------
Nothing is wrong with a darker color, but let Mother Nature provide
it.

If you EVER have to make a repair of a damaged part that has
been stained, you will cuss the day you ever used stain on that door.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Spar varnish is designed to remain flexible
Definitely not a good choice for a door.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I think the UV protection is what I need more than varnish flex.
But UV protection might not be easy to decide from the can printing.
------------------------------------------------------------
The marine finish of choice would be Epifanes.
Check out Jamestown Distributors for Epifanes info.
----------------------------------------------
Does this look like the right stuff?
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...duct.do?pid=92
--------------------------------------------------
Mikey likes it grin.
----------------------------------------------------------
Epifanes clear marine spar varnish is formulated with tung oil,
phenolic
and alkyd resins and U.V. filters for superior protection.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
how far South of the Mason-Dixon Line?

San Diego. It never rains. But when it rains it pours.
------------------------------------------------
Tell me about it, I'm in LA.

BTW, lots of good marine suppliers in S/D.

San Diego Marine Exchange for one.

Have fun.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

You will come to regret stain (Bug Snot)

-------------------------------------------------------
"Tony Palermo" wrote:

Why? What is wrong with darker door?
-------------------------------------------------------
Nothing is wrong with a darker color, but let Mother Nature provide
it.

If you EVER have to make a repair of a damaged part that has
been stained, you will cuss the day you ever used stain on that door.

--------------------------------------------------------------

We all learn that eventually, don't we? Unfortunately, we generally learn
it the hard way

Stain is a spawn of the devil.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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