Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and
preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
"sal" wrote in message ... I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal ======= Tropical hardwoods without any coating on them. -- Eric |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
White OAK resists insects and can handle the weather.
Cedar, and redwood (not easily available on the East Coast here). On 6/11/2012 12:55 PM, Eric wrote: "sal" wrote in message ... I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal ======= Tropical hardwoods without any coating on them. -- Eric |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 11:32:35 -0500, sal wrote:
I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal Cedar, teak, or cypress. Cedar is a little too soft, and teak is a lot too expensive. That leaves cypress as the only easily found (AFAIK) choice. No finish holds up to UV from the sun or to repeated wet/dry cycles. The best advice I can give is a couple of coats of SealCoat (more on end grain) followed an outdoor UV-resistant varnish. It would help if you sealed the end grain at the bottom of the legs with epoxy, or metal booties, or something similar. Anything that keeps them away from moisture. Good luck. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 11:32:35 -0500, sal wrote: I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal Cedar, teak, or cypress. Cedar is a little too soft, and teak is a lot too expensive. That leaves cypress as the only easily found (AFAIK) choice. No finish holds up to UV from the sun or to repeated wet/dry cycles. The best advice I can give is a couple of coats of SealCoat (more on end grain) followed an outdoor UV-resistant varnish. It would help if you sealed the end grain at the bottom of the legs with epoxy, or metal booties, or something similar. Anything that keeps them away from moisture. Good luck. Bull! Pine, I say! About the time you start getting tired of the look, the wood will be rotting away. Nature's harmony between man and materials! -- -Mike- |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/11/2012 11:32 AM, sal wrote:
I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal Ipe is a hard wood, an iron wood actually. Commonly use for decking. No need to ever treat or use a preservative at all as it has a 50 year life expectancy as is. http://www.woodsthebest.com/ipe_decking/ipe-wood.htm |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
sal wrote:
I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal I second the ipe. Barring that, pressure treated...whatever species is used in your area. Let it dry for a couple of months then paint it. -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Maybe just ready for a change? .Check it out... http://www.dadioh.net |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/11/2012 11:32 AM, sal wrote:
I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Probably the place for the Trex or similar if intending to leave outdoors year-round. -- |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
"sal" wrote in :
I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
Han wrote in
: "sal" wrote in : I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. I hope this shows. Can dig up the plan if anyone wishes. http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0098009/ph...N04/7177354451 -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
"sal" wrote: I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. ---------------------------- Cut to the chase. http://tinyurl.com/y976voo Lew |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 12:55:03 -0400, "Eric"
wrote: "sal" wrote in message ... I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal ======= Tropical hardwoods without any coating on them. Precast air entrained, fiber re-enforced concrete. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 17:03:50 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote: On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 11:32:35 -0500, sal wrote: I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal Cedar, teak, or cypress. Cedar is a little too soft, and teak is a lot too expensive. That leaves cypress as the only easily found (AFAIK) choice. No finish holds up to UV from the sun or to repeated wet/dry cycles. The best advice I can give is a couple of coats of SealCoat (more on end grain) followed an outdoor UV-resistant varnish. It would help if you sealed the end grain at the bottom of the legs with epoxy, or metal booties, or something similar. Anything that keeps them away from moisture. Good luck. Acacia works great too, if you can get it. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
Thanks for the input Guys,I do search the internet , but depend on the Pro's
like you. Sal "sal" wrote in message ... I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 11 Jun 2012 18:37:48 GMT, Han wrote:
I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. +2 I build a large cedar garden table for a friend about five years ago. It lives outside and has been experiencing (Toronto, Ontario) winters. She chose not to have it finished in any way. Aside from turning a light gray colour, it's still as solid as when I built it. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/11/2012 7:31 PM, Dave wrote:
On 11 Jun 2012 18:37:48 GMT, Han wrote: I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. +2 I build a large cedar garden table for a friend about five years ago. It lives outside and has been experiencing (Toronto, Ontario) winters. She chose not to have it finished in any way. Aside from turning a light gray colour, it's still as solid as when I built it. Hell, I can top that. I built a "worm box" for a friend out or Western red cedar some 20 years ago. When I helped her move it a couple of years back, I expected it to fall apart because it had been filled with dirt and compost for nigh on 18 years ... nay, it was still as solid as the day it was built, including the bottom. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/11/2012 8:38 PM, Swingman wrote: On 6/11/2012 7:31 PM, Dave wrote: On 11 Jun 2012 18:37:48 GMT, Han wrote: I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. +2 I build a large cedar garden table for a friend about five years ago. It lives outside and has been experiencing (Toronto, Ontario) winters. She chose not to have it finished in any way. Aside from turning a light gray colour, it's still as solid as when I built it. Hell, I can top that. Or maybe not top it but bottome it... :-0 I built a "worm box" for a friend out or Western red cedar some 20 years ago. When I helped her move it a couple of years back, I expected it to fall apart because it had been filled with dirt and compost for nigh on 18 years ... nay, it was still as solid as the day it was built, including the bottom. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 19:38:09 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 6/11/2012 7:31 PM, Dave wrote: On 11 Jun 2012 18:37:48 GMT, Han wrote: I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. +2 I build a large cedar garden table for a friend about five years ago. It lives outside and has been experiencing (Toronto, Ontario) winters. She chose not to have it finished in any way. Aside from turning a light gray colour, it's still as solid as when I built it. Hell, I can top that. I built a "worm box" for a friend out or Western red cedar some 20 years ago. When I helped her move it a couple of years back, I expected it to fall apart because it had been filled with dirt and compost for nigh on 18 years ... nay, it was still as solid as the day it was built, including the bottom. Back when I was a kid we had a "lawn swing"made with white oak posts and western red cedar slats on the seats and floor. It stood up to at least 12 years of heavy use and ontario weather - don't know how long it lasted after I left town. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 19:38:09 -0500, Swingman wrote:
I built a "worm box" for a friend out or Western red cedar some 20 years ago. When I helped her move it a couple of years back, I expected it to fall apart because it had been filled with dirt and compost for nigh on 18 years ... nay, it was still as solid as the day it was built, including the bottom. Yabut, I read somewhere, may even have been here on the rec, that worm **** has a petrifying effect on western red cedar. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/11/2012 1:17 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote: On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 11:32:35 -0500, sal wrote: I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. No finish holds up to UV from the sun or to repeated wet/dry cycles. The best advice I can give is a couple of coats of SealCoat (more on end grain) followed an outdoor UV-resistant varnish. Bull! Pine, I say! About the time you start getting tired of the look, the wood will be rotting away. Nature's harmony between man and materials! I second that. I've been using cheap ass pine for outdoor furniture for 30+ years. Use stainless hardware because the wood will outlast regular steel by years. If the furniture will have ground contact, (not on a deck) use wolmanized for any parts in contact with dirt. Never paint outdoor stuff, it will promote rot when moisture gets under the paint and never dries out, plus, refinishing sucks, and generally easier to burn it than try to refinish painted furniture. Use stain, like deck stain or house stain, it resists chipping and blistering, and is easy to refinish. Here is a picture of 2 chairs and a bench I made out of pine construction grade lumber (50 cent pile at home depot.) http://jbstein.com/Flick/P1040481.jpg The chair on right and bench I made recently, the chair on the left I made at least 35 years ago out of construction grade pine (white wood today) The bench is stained with house stain. The 35 year old chair has NEVER been inside, lives out doors in Pgh winters 24/7/365 and is still in relatively good shape. I think I restained it 2x's, but hard to say after 35 years, could have been 3x's. Here's an Adirondack chair my daughter wanted. You should be able to see the legs are womanized. http://jbstein.com/Flick/P1050155.jpg Here it is in stained with house stain and in use. http://jbstein.com/Flick/AderondakChair.jpg The real key to outdoor stuff is for the wood to dry out quickly after rain. Where two pieces meet is a potential problem area, and anywhere fasteners are exposed, particularly on horizontal surfaces, like an arm, water can pool and rot the wood. Try to not use screws on arm tops, use pocket screws from underneath, and water will not pool around the screws. Any knots on horizontal surfaces I fill with a mixture of sawdust and outdoor glue, to prevent water from sticking around too long. Ground contact (dirt) requires wolmanized wood. On the other hand, the 35 year old chair ignored most all of this advice and odds are good it will outlast me. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
Jack wrote:
Here's an Adirondack chair my daughter wanted. You should be able to see the legs are womanized. Nice work. That is the best kind of legs. -- G.W. Ross If money could talk, it would say goodbye. |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
Jack wrote:
Never paint outdoor stuff, it will promote rot when moisture gets under the paint and never dries out, plus, refinishing sucks, and generally easier to burn it than try to refinish painted furniture. Use stain, like deck stain or house stain, it resists chipping and blistering, and is easy to refinish. Vigorous second from this corner! Here's an Adirondack chair my daughter wanted. You should be able to see the legs are womanized. Womanized legs are the best of the best. Screw all the rest - so to speak... (Stainless of course...) The real key to outdoor stuff is for the wood to dry out quickly after rain. Where two pieces meet is a potential problem area, and anywhere fasteners are exposed, particularly on horizontal surfaces, like an arm, water can pool and rot the wood. Try to not use screws on arm tops, use pocket screws from underneath, and water will not pool around the screws. Any knots on horizontal surfaces I fill with a mixture of sawdust and outdoor glue, to prevent water from sticking around too long. Ground contact (dirt) requires wolmanized wood. On the other hand, the 35 year old chair ignored most all of this advice and odds are good it will outlast me. Good for you Jack. These are principles that have survived time - even before pressure treating came on the scene. I too have stuff that I built almost 30 years ago, and which simply sits outside all year long, and is still serviceable to this day. Like you, I use treated wood for ground contact, and cheap ass pine for other areas. I'm not looking for stuff that will last 300 years. If I was, I would use the same pressure treated materials that the artisans of the 16th century used... I have used plenty of non-treated pine for ground contact, and over time, I've had to replace sections. Never considered that to be such a big issue - it was expected. Once every 10 years or whatever, is not so demanding of me to find it objectionable. -- -Mike- |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/12/2012 10:11 AM, G.W. Ross wrote:
Jack wrote: Here's an Adirondack chair my daughter wanted. You should be able to see the legs are womanized. Nice work. That is the best kind of legs. Yes, unless you have sawdust between your ears:-) -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/11/2012 11:37 AM, Han wrote:
wrote in : I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. That does not appear to be any cedar I'm familiar with(eastern red) or any of the west coast cedars but it does look like "spanish cedar", which is neither spanish or cedar. |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
Pat Barber wrote in
: On 6/11/2012 11:37 AM, Han wrote: wrote in : I want to make some outdoor benches what would be the best wood and preservative to use . We get a lot of rain , long cold winters. Sal I am seconding cedar. I'm in New Jersey, and 6 years ago I built some simple wooden benches with cedar bought from Kuiken Brothers. No finishing whasoever, and they just stayed outside all year round. Picture to follow. That does not appear to be any cedar I'm familiar with(eastern red) or any of the west coast cedars but it does look like "spanish cedar", which is neither spanish or cedar. It must be the weathering that makes you think so. The wood had a typical cedar smell when cut. Also, Kuiken Brothers is a very reputable firm around here, and they sold the wood as cedar. If you're near, come by and I'll let you smell a cutoff. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On Thu, 14 Jun 2012 08:31:33 -0700, Pat Barber wrote:
That does not appear to be any cedar I'm familiar with(eastern red) or any of the west coast cedars but it does look like "spanish cedar", which is neither spanish or cedar. But it's cedrela, which is close :-). A friend built and Adirondack chair out of spanish cedar and it was beautiful. So much so that I resawed some down to 1/4" and used it for the soundboard of a hammered dulcimer. Gorgeous! And it does appear to be a little harder than real cedar. And is also same rot resistant. Seems like it would be a good choice for outdoor furniture, but it's a little more expensive and a little harder to find than some of the other suggestions here. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
low maintenence
On 6/14/2012 8:50 AM, Han wrote:
It must be the weathering that makes you think so. The wood had a typical cedar smell when cut. Also, Kuiken Brothers is a very reputable firm around here, and they sold the wood as cedar. If you're near, come by and I'll let you smell a cutoff. Yep...it looks too smooth for any cedars I am used to. You are probably right about the weather effect. I am always looking for the next outdoor material. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
SHOCKING! Quincy compressor needs maintenence! | Metalworking | |||
Shovel Maintenence | Home Repair | |||
A/C Maintenence | Home Repair |