Subject: Designing a work table

Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
References:

Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my
mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a
cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big
thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg
A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two
inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to
the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right
angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net
------------
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space
where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets
them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary
shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one
or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or
storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't
build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some
construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use
screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things
are still going strong after 30 years.


From: Limp Arbor

NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 12:37:42 +0000 (UTC)

On May 4, 6:47=A0am, "G.W. Ross" wrote:

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. =A0Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)
-----------------------------
From: "G.W. Ross" )

Limp Arbor wrote:
On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)

I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the
back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
From: "G.W. Ross"

Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
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From: "dadiOH"
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
References:
Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my
mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a
cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big
thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg
A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two
inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to
the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right
angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
Puckdropper
--
From: "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space
where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets
them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary
shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one
or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or
storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't
build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some
construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use
screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things
are still going strong after 30 years.

From: Limp Arbor
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). =A0My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. =A0I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to =A0use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. =A0Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)
-
Limp Arbor wrote:
On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)

I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the
back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.

Bill wrote:
I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
(a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).
It's a work table. You need 4x4 legs like a hole in the head but hey, it's
your table, use 'em if you want 'em. Nail/screw 2x4s to them all the way
around at the top, ditto at bottom if you feel the need for stretchers.
Fasten on top. Done. If you do use 4x4 legs, I'd cut out 1/2 so 2x4s sit
flush to them.

-------------------
I'm in the process of doing the same thing.

i'm using a plan from Path: news.usenetserver.com!s05-b32.iad!npeersf02.iad.highwinds-media.com!npeer03.iad.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.glorb.com!newsfeed1.swip.net!news.a straweb.com!border6.a.newsrouter.astraweb.com!not-for-mail
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
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Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
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Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my
mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a
cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big
thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg
A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two
inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to
the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right
angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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From: "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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"Bill" wrote in message
...

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T
joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. One
thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each end to
the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right side of
each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely "pitiful"
technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure whether
the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my current
design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space
where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets
them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary
shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one
or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or
storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't
build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some
construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use
screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things
are still going strong after 30 years.

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From: Limp Arbor
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 05:37:42 -0700 (PDT)
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On May 4, 6:47=A0am, "G.W. Ross" wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). =A0My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. =A0I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to =A0use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. =A0Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)
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Limp Arbor wrote:
On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)

I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the
back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
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Date: Fri, 04 May 2012 06:47:10 -0400
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Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
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From: "dadiOH"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 07:49:17 -0400
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Bill wrote:
I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
(a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).
It's a work table. You need 4x4 legs like a hole in the head but hey, it's
your table, use 'em if you want 'em. Nail/screw 2x4s to them all the way
around at the top, ditto at bottom if you feel the need for stretchers.
Fasten on top. Done. If you do use 4x4 legs, I'd cut out 1/2 so 2x4s sit
flush to them.

-------------------------
Bill-

I'm in the process of doing the same thing.

I'm using a plan from http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...-workbench.pdf
with slight modifications. Mine will be wall mounted, a couple
of inches higher, have two shelves, and go all the way to the floor to
keep out dust and critters. There's also a video available. Panels on the
sides provide stability. See the picture in the a.b.pictures.woodworking
group.

A fancier version using the same design but out of maple and with
drawers is in Woodsmith - 133 - Feb 2001 - Heavy Duty Workbench.

Your plan looks top-heavy and like it might stand a good chance of racking,
especially after mounting a vise. I think stretchers like are shown on the plan
would work better. If it's wall mounted, that may solve it, depending on how
you mount it. See also the picture of how Woodsmith mounts a machinist's
vise to the same table.
-J