I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

Bill wrote in :


I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".

You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.

Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Bill wrote in :


I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my
mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a
cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big
thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)

http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg

A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two
inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to
the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right
angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.

Bill wrote:
I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
(a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

It's a work table. You need 4x4 legs like a hole in the head but hey, it's
your table, use 'em if you want 'em. Nail/screw 2x4s to them all the way
around at the top, ditto at bottom if you feel the need for stretchers.
Fasten on top. Done. If you do use 4x4 legs, I'd cut out 1/2 so 2x4s sit
flush to them.
--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On May 4, 6:47*am, "G.W. Ross" wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). *My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. *I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to *use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. *Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)

-----------------------------------------------------------
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Limp Arbor wrote:
On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)


I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the
back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T
joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. One
thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each end to
the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right side of
each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely "pitiful"
technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure whether
the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my current
design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space
where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets
them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary
shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one
or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or
storage space in a shop.

Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.

Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't
build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some
construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use
screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things
are still going strong after 30 years.

On Fri, 04 May 2012 04:28:46 -0400, Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

Hey, that would have been good practice. For S&G, I used a dovetail
in my flat panel rack which is made out of the finest tubaeight SPF.
http://tinyurl.com/84x69kn


I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.

Joint and glue the sticks together, or tack/glue a piece of hardboard
on top. Flat tops with no holes/slats are nice to have in the shop.


One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

Countersunk lag bolts, of course.


By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure

The added benefit is that your shelf will not sag with 4 supported
edges. Consider lagging angle iron to the legs and mounting that to
the cement with screws. You want to be able to do real WORK in the
vise on this bench, right? And with that in mind, add some diagonal
1x4s from bottom of back leg to top of front leg, and one across the
back legs. This will take out any instability when you're bending
metal, planing, or workin' heavy in the vise.


whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

Egad! Silly heathen. Countersunk lag bolts and washers are much more
sturdy, and they're removable for easy replacement if necessary.


I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Rag a coat or two of your favorite finish on it before you start work.
It keeps the bench looking newer longer.

--
Aim for success, not perfection. Never give up your right
to be wrong, because then you will lose the ability to
learn new things and move forward with your life.
-- Dr. David M. Burns

On 5/4/2012 3:28 AM, Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T
joinery, and then I got more realistic.

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

I like it!

And, except for the top on mine (which is interchangeable) it's very
similar in design to the one I've been using for the past ten years or so:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Bench.jpg

As Lee rightfully stated about making it heavy, simply do what I did:

Double up on the four legs, AND mimic the bottom aprons/stretchers on
the top ... this will add the mass you need for vise work (also making
the inner legs a bit shorter makes it easy to shim to keep it from
rocking on an uneven surface), and the added structure at the top gives
it extra mass, rigidity, and allow more flexibility for changing the top
in the future.

Besides that, the design is flexible enough to allow for evolution in
use. Mine has evolved over the years to this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...96966540508658

And I would use screws, not nails, for your "joinery".

Good use of Sketchup also, Bill!

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 5/4/2012 2:05 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".

You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.

if you put in a shelf, you can forgo the front brace. if you put in two
shelves (brace the bottom of the legs with 2x4s on edge, and use the top
of them for another shelf, make the middle shelf be only 1/2 the depth.
that lets you put tall things in front, gives you 1.5x the shelf space,
and you can get your knees under it easier.

Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.

Puckdropper

On 5/4/2012 9:48 AM, chaniarts wrote:
On 5/4/2012 2:05 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".

You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.

if you put in a shelf, you can forgo the front brace. if you put in two
shelves (brace the bottom of the legs with 2x4s on edge, and use the top
of them for another shelf, make the middle shelf be only 1/2 the depth.
that lets you put tall things in front, gives you 1.5x the shelf space,
and you can get your knees under it easier.

Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.

Puckdropper


oh, and mount double gang electrical boxes at each end on the top inside
of the legs. this gets cords off the surface of the bench.

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
(a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers
on the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a
space where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working.
And gets them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my
primary shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer.
Then put one or two more shelves under there. You can never have too
many shelves or storage space in a shop.

Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.

Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho!

Don't worry, this is just a small bench to help me build my main bench!
Though I think it will end up being quite useful in it's own right.
However with all of the fine suggestions I've received, it's picking up
a lot of weight and structural integrity!


Don't build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger,
use some construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would
personally use screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws.
Some of those things are still going strong after 30 years.

Bill wrote:
snip

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

Thank You to everyone for your thoughtful suggestions!
I'll think about them for a bit and post a new drawing
in a few days, if I can wait that long!

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a table to to
"boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not suitable for those
things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more
realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. One thing I'm
still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each end to the 4by4 legs.
Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right side of each joint, like a
bandaid, would probably work (but is surely "pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on the inside
to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure whether the 3 1/2 inches
will really make much difference. Also, in my current design, all assembly is done
with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

Consider using a solid core door for the top. If you have an
architectural salvage place, or a HFH ReStore, nearby they can
be quite inexpensive. They are also usually dead flat and strong
enough to not need stretchers. I got one decades ago that was
from a hospital x-ray facility. It's lead lined and HEAVY.
Art

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Bench.jpg

I like this bench design. Where did you get the basic plan?

MJ

On 5/4/2012 3:28 AM, Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance).

Swingman replied:

And, except for the top on mine (which is interchangeable) it's very
similar in design to the one I've been using for the past ten years or so:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Bench.jpg

As Lee rightfully stated about making it heavy, simply do what I did:

Double up on the four legs, AND mimic the bottom aprons/stretchers on
the top ... this will add the mass you need for vise work (also making
the inner legs a bit shorter makes it easy to shim to keep it from
rocking on an uneven surface), and the added structure at the top gives
it extra mass, rigidity, and allow more flexibility for changing the top
in the future.

It took me a few more hours of screwing around (I mean "designing") to
realize that you got that apron/stretcher part "just right"--and you got
a perfect place for a shelf/table as a bonus.

My new diagram (not posted) looked like crap until I recalled the
picture you posted above, and adjusted my front and back and side
strechers to the same height(s).

I'm curious why you choice to use doubled-up 2by4s for legs instead of
4by4s? Please explain your rationale if you don't mind.

Thanks,
Bill

On 5/7/2012 6:05 AM, Bill wrote:

On 5/4/2012 3:28 AM, Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance).

Swingman replied:

And, except for the top on mine (which is interchangeable) it's very
similar in design to the one I've been using for the past ten years or
so:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Bench.jpg

As Lee rightfully stated about making it heavy, simply do what I did:

Double up on the four legs, AND mimic the bottom aprons/stretchers on
the top ... this will add the mass you need for vise work (also making
the inner legs a bit shorter makes it easy to shim to keep it from
rocking on an uneven surface), and the added structure at the top gives
it extra mass, rigidity, and allow more flexibility for changing the top
in the future.

It took me a few more hours of screwing around (I mean "designing") to
realize that you got that apron/stretcher part "just right"--and you got
a perfect place for a shelf/table as a bonus.

My new diagram (not posted) looked like crap until I recalled the
picture you posted above, and adjusted my front and back and side
strechers to the same height(s).

I'm curious why you choice to use doubled-up 2by4s for legs instead of
4by4s? Please explain your rationale if you don't mind.

A frugal concept, called "materials on hand".

That, and, as described above, to make it easier to shim the work table
on an uneven surface, which was important at the time since the original
floor of the shop, being a 1940's garage, had a pronounced crown.

There is no reason not to use 4x4's for the legs if you have them on hand.

At the time I was looking for something easy and quick to fabricate with
materials on hand, inexpensive, extremely sturdy, and highly flexible in
configuration with regard to installing different tops, drawers, etc in
the future ... it is neither traditional, nor pretty, but it is highly
functional and has provided all those elements in spades.

I've been using it daily for over ten years and would not change a thing
.... although I keep thinking that one of these days I'll glue up an
extra, interchangeable top of thick maple, something a bit less wide and
more traditional for use with hand tools. (the top is currently mounted
with cleats and screws to the top aprons).

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 5/7/2012 6:05 AM, Bill wrote:

On 5/4/2012 3:28 AM, Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance).

Swingman replied:

And, except for the top on mine (which is interchangeable) it's very
similar in design to the one I've been using for the past ten years or
so:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Bench.jpg

As Lee rightfully stated about making it heavy, simply do what I did:

Double up on the four legs, AND mimic the bottom aprons/stretchers on
the top ... this will add the mass you need for vise work (also making
the inner legs a bit shorter makes it easy to shim to keep it from
rocking on an uneven surface), and the added structure at the top gives
it extra mass, rigidity, and allow more flexibility for changing the top
in the future.

It took me a few more hours of screwing around (I mean "designing") to
realize that you got that apron/stretcher part "just right"--and you got
a perfect place for a shelf/table as a bonus.

My new diagram (not posted) looked like crap until I recalled the
picture you posted above, and adjusted my front and back and side
strechers to the same height(s).

I'm curious why you choice to use doubled-up 2by4s for legs instead of
4by4s? Please explain your rationale if you don't mind.

FWIW, here is a Sketchup model/dimensioned drawing of the frame and top
of my current work bench on Google's 3D Warehouse:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...&prevs tart=0

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Bill asked:
I'm curious why you choice to use doubled-up 2by4s for legs instead of
4by4s? Please explain your rationale if you don't mind.

Swingman wrote:
FWIW, here is a Sketchup model/dimensioned drawing of the frame and top
of my current work bench on Google's 3D Warehouse:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...&prevs tart=0



Nice work! When I looked at the photograph you posted earlier, my mind
saw an overlapping joint at the apron. Looking again, after looking at
your drawing, I see it was an illusion. There is elegance in simplicity
too.

On 5/7/2012 2:54 PM, Bill wrote:

Bill asked:
I'm curious why you choice to use doubled-up 2by4s for legs instead of
4by4s? Please explain your rationale if you don't mind.

Swingman wrote:
FWIW, here is a Sketchup model/dimensioned drawing of the frame and top
of my current work bench on Google's 3D Warehouse:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...&prevs tart=0





Nice work! When I looked at the photograph you posted earlier, my mind
saw an overlapping joint at the apron. Looking again, after looking at
your drawing, I see it was an illusion. There is elegance in simplicity
too.

That particular design is stupid simple, but it works for me. And it
costs what, less than $50 for the bench frame and can be built in a
couple of hours? Add a top and shelf, and still less than $100.

AAMOF, I'd have two if the space were available.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Swingman wrote:
On 5/7/2012 2:54 PM, Bill wrote:

Bill asked:
I'm curious why you choice to use doubled-up 2by4s for legs instead of
4by4s? Please explain your rationale if you don't mind.

Swingman wrote:
FWIW, here is a Sketchup model/dimensioned drawing of the frame and top
of my current work bench on Google's 3D Warehouse:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...&prevs tart=0





Nice work! When I looked at the photograph you posted earlier, my mind
saw an overlapping joint at the apron. Looking again, after looking at
your drawing, I see it was an illusion. There is elegance in simplicity
too.

That particular design is stupid simple, but it works for me. And it
costs what, less than $50 for the bench frame and can be built in a
couple of hours? Add a top and shelf, and still less than $100.

AAMOF, I'd have two if the space were available.

I plan to use my proposed one to help subtly reclaim square-footage
that has been overtaken by squatters!

(I forgot who I am borrowing the last expression from, but I like it).

dfg

Swingman wrote:
On 5/7/2012 2:54 PM, Bill wrote:

Bill asked:
I'm curious why you choice to use doubled-up 2by4s for legs
instead of 4by4s? Please explain your rationale if you don't
mind.

Swingman wrote:
FWIW, here is a Sketchup model/dimensioned drawing of the frame
and top of my current work bench on Google's 3D Warehouse:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...&prevs tart=0



After I mowed the lawn, I had time to cut the legs of my
new bench today. I screwed a piece of 2by4 to the end of a face
of a piece of old plywood (resting on saw horses) and put the
factory ends of my four 4' pieces of 4by4 up against it.
I clamped the 4by4s together with pipe clamps for good measure,
and clamped a piece of 2by8 accoss the top,
with F-clamps, to use for a fence for my circular saw. I was going
to make the cut, when I thought this would make a good picture for
you guys! ; ) So I took a quick pic, and made the 2" deep cut.
Then I thought, now what? I cut the rest of the way through with
a hand saw (a Menards freebee). The 2" deep cut worked like an
old miter saw, and the cuts game out excellent I think--exceeding
my expectations. Of course, there's flat, and then there's
flat (like you strive to get with a shooting board). I'm assuming
the former is flat enough (please correct me if I'm mistaken).

Regarding glue. One wouldn't want to glue the boards making-up the
workbench top to the "frame" would one? It seems like with screws
only, one always have the opportunity to easily put on a new top. And
that is a valuable option.

Just having cut the legs--to size, I feel like I'm "over the hump".
But dinner was called... Tomorrow, tomorrow... : )

Bill