Subject: Designing a work table

Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
References:

Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my
mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a
cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big
thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg
A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two
inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to
the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right
angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net
------------
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space
where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets
them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary
shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one
or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or
storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't
build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some
construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use
screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things
are still going strong after 30 years.


From: Limp Arbor

NNTP-Posting-Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 12:37:42 +0000 (UTC)

On May 4, 6:47=A0am, "G.W. Ross" wrote:

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. =A0Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)
-----------------------------
From: "G.W. Ross" )

Limp Arbor wrote:
On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)

I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the
back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
From: "G.W. Ross"

Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
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From: "dadiOH"
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
References:
Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my
mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a
cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big
thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg
A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two
inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to
the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right
angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
Puckdropper
--
From: "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space
where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets
them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary
shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one
or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or
storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't
build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some
construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use
screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things
are still going strong after 30 years.

From: Limp Arbor
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). =A0My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. =A0I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to =A0use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. =A0Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)
-
Limp Arbor wrote:
On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)

I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the
back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.

Bill wrote:
I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
(a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).
It's a work table. You need 4x4 legs like a hole in the head but hey, it's
your table, use 'em if you want 'em. Nail/screw 2x4s to them all the way
around at the top, ditto at bottom if you feel the need for stretchers.
Fasten on top. Done. If you do use 4x4 legs, I'd cut out 1/2 so 2x4s sit
flush to them.

-------------------
I'm in the process of doing the same thing.

i'm using a plan from Path: news.usenetserver.com!s05-b32.iad!npeersf02.iad.highwinds-media.com!npeer03.iad.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.glorb.com!newsfeed1.swip.net!news.a straweb.com!border6.a.newsrouter.astraweb.com!not-for-mail
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
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Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
Make it a little wider, say 26-28". That way, if you build a piece
2'x4' it will fit on the table easily. I'm going to have to extend the
top of my workbench a bit for that exact reason... The width was good,
but the length was exactly 48".
You may want to consider making the bottom support a shelf or cabinet.
Not only will it add some rigidity, but you'll gain some storage space.
Instead of putting the supports inside the legs, consider making the base
a little smaller than the top. That way, you'll have clamping space
around the entire top (near the edges) and you'll get the knee space you
desire. At 37" tall, you'll want to stand to use the bench, so it's
probably more important to make room for your feet.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
From: Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com
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Bill wrote in :

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I noticed distinct similarities between your proposed design and my
mostly finished reality. I plan turning the bottom of the bench into a
cabinet to try to keep some of the dust off my less-used tools. The big
thing on top isn't part of the bench, it's a project. ;-)
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/other/bench.jpg
A couple things to note:
1) The bench top is designed to allow for clamping. It's at least two
inches larger than the base for that reason.
2) The drawer height is designed to allow an item to remain clamped to
the top while the drawer is opened.
3) The drawers open from either end (convenient!)
4) The legs are just 1x material. They are two pieces joined at a right
angle, which allowed installation of the shelf and drawer box.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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From: "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
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"Bill" wrote in message
...

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating M&T
joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point. One
thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each end to
the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right side of
each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely "pitiful"
technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure whether
the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my current
design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I always recommend a shelf a few inches under the top. This creates a space
where you can put tools that can be easily accessed when working. And gets
them out of the way when you don't need them. I have that on my primary
shop bench and it has been a super time saver and organizer. Then put one
or two more shelves under there. You can never have too many shelves or
storage space in a shop.
Make the bench sturdy. One way to do this is to simply make it heavier.
Use heavier materials and stack stuff on the shelves. The heavier it is,
the more stable of a work surface that you will have. Particularly
important if mounting a vise on the bench.
Wimpy, light weight benches are mostly useless. Be a man! Be macho! Don't
build a pussy bench! And if you want to make it a bit stronger, use some
construction adhesive where possible. Nails are OK. I would personally use
screws. I built a lot of things with glue and screws. Some of those things
are still going strong after 30 years.

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From: Limp Arbor
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 05:37:42 -0700 (PDT)
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On May 4, 6:47=A0am, "G.W. Ross" wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). =A0My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. =A0I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to =A0use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. =A0Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier
Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)
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Limp Arbor wrote:
On May 4, 6:47 am, "G.W. wrote:
Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill

I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.

--
G.W. Ross

I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A lot of good suggestions that I'll agree with
1 top cross pieces on sides of legs
2 notch legs to inset stretchers
3 top should overhang on all 4 sides
4 use screws or bolts - nails back out easier

Another thing you you might want to consider is two feet. I connected
the legs of my bench at the bottom with a foot. Helps prevent
racking. Makes it easier to level. Makes it easier to move. You msy
not plan on it now but at some point you'll put something in that vise
to bend or beat on and you want the bench stable.
http://www.swigerwoodworks.com/images/Workbench_011.jpg
(not mine)

I built both of mine similar but no overhang in back--I screwed the
back legs to the wall.
No racking or shaking.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
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Bill wrote:

I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening (a
table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is not
suitable for those things. I started-out with a design incorporating
M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).

By the way, it may look a little unorthodox, but I put the strechers on
the inside to buy myself a little leg room. I'm not actually sure
whether the 3 1/2 inches will really make much difference. Also, in my
current design, all assembly is done with nails.

I'd welcome any comments anyone would care to provide.

Cheers!
Bill
I would put the upper cross pieces on the side of the legs rather than
on top. Nailing into the end grain of the legs will not hold as well.
--
G.W. Ross
I used to be sane, but I'm feeling
much better now.
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From: "dadiOH"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Designing a work table
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 07:49:17 -0400
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Bill wrote:
I need to build a table to mount a machinist vise and for sharpening
(a table to to "boot from" in computer parlance). My "Work-Mate" is
not suitable for those things. I started-out with a design
incorporating M&T joinery, and then I got more realistic.

I just finished a design I put on my web site to sha
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

I plan to use SYP for the top--in fact, that was my starting point.
One thing I'm still not decided on is how to attach the 2by4's on each
end to the 4by4 legs. Nailing an extra piece of 2by4 to left and right
side of each joint, like a bandaid, would probably work (but is surely
"pitiful" technique).
It's a work table. You need 4x4 legs like a hole in the head but hey, it's
your table, use 'em if you want 'em. Nail/screw 2x4s to them all the way
around at the top, ditto at bottom if you feel the need for stretchers.
Fasten on top. Done. If you do use 4x4 legs, I'd cut out 1/2 so 2x4s sit
flush to them.

-------------------------
Bill-

I'm in the process of doing the same thing.

I'm using a plan from http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...-workbench.pdf
with slight modifications. Mine will be wall mounted, a couple
of inches higher, have two shelves, and go all the way to the floor to
keep out dust and critters. There's also a video available. Panels on the
sides provide stability. See the picture in the a.b.pictures.woodworking
group.

A fancier version using the same design but out of maple and with
drawers is in Woodsmith - 133 - Feb 2001 - Heavy Duty Workbench.

Your plan looks top-heavy and like it might stand a good chance of racking,
especially after mounting a vise. I think stretchers like are shown on the plan
would work better. If it's wall mounted, that may solve it, depending on how
you mount it. See also the picture of how Woodsmith mounts a machinist's
vise to the same table.
-J

Joe wrote:
I'm in the process of doing the same thing.

I'm using a plan fromhttp://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/206/heavy-duty-workbench.pdf
with slight modifications. Mine will be wall mounted, a couple
of inches higher, have two shelves, and go all the way to the floor to
keep out dust and critters. There's also a video available. Panels on the
sides provide stability. See the picture in the a.b.pictures.woodworking
group.

A fancier version using the same design but out of maple and with
drawers is in Woodsmith - 133 - Feb 2001 - Heavy Duty Workbench.

Your plan looks top-heavy and like it might stand a good chance of racking,
especially after mounting a vise. I think stretchers like are shown on the plan
would work better. If it's wall mounted, that may solve it, depending on how
you mount it. See also the picture of how Woodsmith mounts a machinist's
vise to the same table.
-J


I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I believe.

Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )

Bill wrote:


I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
believe.
Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )

Don't even need the chisel Bill.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
believe.
Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )

Don't even need the chisel Bill.


Cool. I'll try it then. When I've seen folks do it on TV,
they make a bunch of cuts with a TS (maybe it was a hand saw?) and then
use a chisel. I guess you are suggesting that, towards the end, you
can use the circular saw a little like a router!

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
believe.
Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )

Don't even need the chisel Bill.


Cool. I'll try it then. When I've seen folks do it on TV,
they make a bunch of cuts with a TS (maybe it was a hand saw?) and
then use a chisel. I guess you are suggesting that, towards the
end, you can use the circular saw a little like a router!

You can cut your half laps with cuts from two different directions. One
down through the end grain, and one cross cut.

--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:
I'm in the process of doing the same thing.

I'm using a plan
fromhttp://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/206/heavy-duty-workbench.pdf
with slight modifications. Mine will be wall mounted, a couple
of inches higher, have two shelves, and go all the way to the floor to
keep out dust and critters. There's also a video available. Panels on
the
sides provide stability. See the picture in the a.b.pictures.woodworking
group.

A fancier version using the same design but out of maple and with
drawers is in Woodsmith - 133 - Feb 2001 - Heavy Duty Workbench.

Your plan looks top-heavy and like it might stand a good chance of
racking,
especially after mounting a vise. I think stretchers like are shown on
the plan
would work better. If it's wall mounted, that may solve it, depending on
how
you mount it. See also the picture of how Woodsmith mounts a machinist's
vise to the same table.
-J


I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I believe.

Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a chisel?
No replies from any SS owners please! : )

I have made a ton of things with lap joints. I used both radial arm saws
and circular saws. If you make enough cuts, almost nothing is left in the
bottom of the joint. Any chisel work is just to clean it up and make it
absolutely flat. But if you do a good enough job with the cuts, almost
nothing is left to smooth out.

"Lee Michaels" wrote:

I have made a ton of things with lap joints. I used both radial arm
saws and circular saws. If you make enough cuts, almost nothing is
left in the bottom of the joint. Any chisel work is just to clean
it up and make it absolutely flat. But if you do a good enough job
with the cuts, almost nothing is left to smooth out.

------------------------------------
A blade with a flat top grind makes life easier.

Lew

On Fri, 4 May 2012 22:15:59 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
I have made a ton of things with lap joints. I used both radial arm
A blade with a flat top grind makes life easier.

And, a dado blade makes lap joints a breeze.

Dave wrote:
On Fri, 4 May 2012 22:15:59 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
I have made a ton of things with lap joints. I used both radial arm
A blade with a flat top grind makes life easier.

And, a dado blade makes lap joints a breeze.

That wouldn't be sportsman-like! ; )

Bill wrote:

I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
believe.
Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )

You could. It would be a lot easier with a bandsaw. Not hard with a table
or radial saw either...just make a number of crosscuts to the proper depth,
pop out the excess, clean up with chisel and/or rasp. Do it the same way
with a circular saw. You could even use a chain saw. Or a hand saw.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 5/5/2012 8:21 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
believe.
Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )

You could. It would be a lot easier with a bandsaw. Not hard with a table
or radial saw either...just make a number of crosscuts to the proper depth,
pop out the excess, clean up with chisel and/or rasp. Do it the same way
with a circular saw. You could even use a chain saw. Or a hand saw.


Good points. Not all of them apply to making the cut in the middle of a
4by4. I don't have a table saw yet. I didn't quite realize I could
count on a BS for glue-able flatness--I suppose with a 1/2" blade (which
I have).

Among other things, this table is going to be my "Scarey-Sharp"
sharpening station. I may have to practice my Scarey-Sharp technique in
the kitchen first before I complete this project! : )

Thanks!
Bill

Bill you've seen the Nike commercials.. The ones that say

JUST DO IT

right?

JUST DO IT!

On 5/5/2012 1:25 PM, Bill wrote:
On 5/5/2012 8:21 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

I may indeed borrow the idea of using an "overlap joint" for my
stretchers, which is the key part of what you are suggesting, I
believe.
Dare I try to make such joints with a hand-held circular saw and a
chisel? No replies from any SS owners please! : )

You could. It would be a lot easier with a bandsaw. Not hard with a table
or radial saw either...just make a number of crosscuts to the proper
depth,
pop out the excess, clean up with chisel and/or rasp. Do it the same way
with a circular saw. You could even use a chain saw. Or a hand saw.


Good points. Not all of them apply to making the cut in the middle of a
4by4. I don't have a table saw yet. I didn't quite realize I could count
on a BS for glue-able flatness--I suppose with a 1/2" blade (which I have).

Among other things, this table is going to be my "Scarey-Sharp"
sharpening station. I may have to practice my Scarey-Sharp technique in
the kitchen first before I complete this project! : )

Thanks!
Bill

"tiredofspam" wrote:

Bill you've seen the Nike commercials.. The ones that say

JUST DO IT

right?

JUST DO IT!
--------------------------------------
Then Bill would have to quit "window shopping" and start spending some
money.

It isn't ever going to happen.

Lew

tiredofspam wrote:
Bill you've seen the Nike commercials.. The ones that say

JUST DO IT

right?

JUST DO IT!

....Working on getting to it. Hang in there!


I... woke up this morning...
Lookin' 'round for my shoes....
Some cat stole my Nikes...
and now I got the walking blues;

They was just there yesterday..
Just sitting next to my saw..(tenny's ain't good for working ya know)
And they was still there this morning...
I may never shake these walking blues,
Cause a certain man thinks I'm boring;

(With all due apologies to Robert Johnson) : )

tiredofspam wrote:

Bill you've seen the Nike commercials.. The ones that say

JUST DO IT

right?

JUST DO IT!


Ugh-oh... I'm going to get blamed for this post...

Oh well, since I am, I'll just echo the sentiment!

Do it and learn from it!

There - I feel better now...

--

-Mike-

tiredofspam wrote:
Bill you've seen the Nike commercials.. The ones that say

JUST DO IT


One thing I try to impress upon my students is

Design, Design, Design!

Some of them don't understand, so I may explain with more emphasis:

Design, Design, Design, Design, Design, Design! (slight exaggeration)

I say, "You're nodding, but I still don't think you appreciate it (what
is behind the words) enough".

I suggest that when confronted with a job interview, or similar, that
they could do a lot worse than to reveal a sacred point of view
regarding design. At least they encountered one person who defended a,
perhaps, unusually-euphoric reverence for it.

Admittedly, I explain, a careful design may be of less importance on a
project you intend to build by yourself in one day. Still, the world
might be a better place if more people embraced the D-word.
For a software developer, I consider it evidence of maturity.

I am almost reticent to share now that I think it holds its
weight in this environment too. How likely is it that a result will be
superior to a plan? Experience has shown too that the sooner one can
identify a problem, the cheaper and easier it is to fix it. It is
interesting to note that, timewise, cutting wood, depending on how one
defines cutting wood fibers, may amount to less than 1% of a ww project,
yet it, the materials, could represent a significant proportion of the
cost of the project. The woodworking materials may not even be directly
replaceable. In short, there is probably adequate time to DO IT, after
one has crafted a design. Of course, as most everyone is aware, design
can take many forms, such as building a prototype, or involve practicing
the unfamiliar, but don't get me started...

Cheers, with a capital D,
Bill