I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of them
are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to the
table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows away from the
blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence a
little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the slats from
having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

On 1/25/12 10:14 PM, Pete S wrote:
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of
them are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to the
table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows away from
the blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence
a little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the
slats from having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

My first thought would be to make the cuts with the widest part of the
board against the fence... in other words, cut off the 1-1/2" on the
non-fence side of the blade. that way it bows away from the blade and
has nothing to bind against.

Yes, this means you have to set up the fence for every cut. If you're
worried about then not being exact duplicate cuts, cut them a little
proud, then set the fence to 1-1/2" and cut them again to be exact
duplicates.

Before I had a good table say and wanted a bunch of duplicates like
this, I would cut them all proud, then run a bunch of them, side-by-side
as a group, though the planer.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Pete S" wrote:

I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6
feet long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
--------------------
HOw wide are the boards on average?

Lew

Pete S wrote:
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6
feet long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of
them are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to
the table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp
carbide blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am
cutting is closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows
away from the blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board
away from the fence a little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of
course, keeps the slats from having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed,
warped. But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone
from the slats. What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

They bend either because of internal stresses or inequality in moisture. If
the first, there is nothing you can do (short of using a bandsaw); if the
second - which seems likely since they later straighten - let the boards
acclimate until they are dryer.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jan 25, 11:14*pm, "Pete S" wrote:
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. *I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
* They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. *Most of them
are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. *Now I take them to the
table saw. *It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. *When I rip the board, the *1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. *About 1/3rd of the time the slat *bows away from the
blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence a
little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the slats from
having a consistent width.
* The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
* * But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

Feahter board:
http://www.micromark.com/featherboar...-set,7586.html

I rarely have the splitter in my saw but when I am ripping long boards
it always goes back on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcS0TAabedc

On 1/25/2012 11:14 PM, Pete S wrote:
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of
them are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to the
table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows away from
the blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence
a little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the
slats from having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Try to clamp them flat as you cut them? with sacrificial boards (maybe
screws?). I don't even have a TS, this is just a thought. GL!

Bill




Pete Stanaitis
----------------

I have had lots of logs milled and the lumber air dried. Your problem
is common with air dried lumber (similar with what I have experienced,
also), i.e., the wood still has some elevated moisture content. Kiln
drying would help reduce the amount of bowing/warping you are
experiencing. Try cutting the boards at a much slower feed rate.
This will/should help, some.

The wood may also have stress within, so your cutting relieves the
stress and bow one way or the other. If you flip the board around and
cut from the other end, does it bow the same way? If so, then the
main problem is the moisture in the wood, not so much the stress
factor.

The cut line is heating up, as you cut, drying out the wood along that
cut line. As it dries, during the cut, it will shrink along the cut
line, pulling itself toward the cut line.... similarly to a wet board
left in the sun (drying mostly/faster on that exposed side) and it bow
or warp on/toward the sun side.

Run the boards throught the saw at a much slower feed rate, make sure
your blade is sharp and make sure the fence is parallel to the blade.

Sonny

On 1/26/2012 7:19 AM, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Jan 25, 11:14 pm, "Pete wrote:

What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Feahter board:

I rarely have the splitter in my saw but when I am ripping long boards
it always goes back on.

What he says ... use a feather board in front of the blade, and a
splitter behind it.

From your description it is the wood that is most likely the issue, not
your table saw.

If the distance from the front, cutting edge, of the table saw blade to
your fence is 1 1/2", then your rip will be exactly that, _providing you
keep the wood against the fence_.

With reaction, or case hardened, wood you sometimes have to force the
issue of contact with the fence in front of the blade, thus the _feather
board_.

A _splitter_ is a good idea to use when cutting any kind of reaction
wood, not only for safety, but particularly with maple, as it burns easily.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 06:15:03 -0800, Sonny wrote:

he cut line is heating up, as you cut, drying out the wood along that
cut line. As it dries, during the cut, it will shrink along the cut
line, pulling itself toward the cut line....

Read the title of this post - the boards are pulling *away* from the cut
line. That's called reverse case hardening and IIRC has something to do
with the wood being overly dried at the kiln.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 1/25/2012 10:14 PM, Pete S wrote:
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of
them are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to the
table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows away from
the blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence
a little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the
slats from having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

As others have said, you _might_ be able to force them to stay against
the fence but 1" maple is pretty thick and if it is going to want to
move the amount of force required may be more than you can exert and
still move them past the blade.

I'd ask how they've been stored, whether were kiln-dried or air dried,
how long, etc., etc., etc., ...

My first inclination would be to

a) run them thru the planer again and then let acclimate for a while if
can afford to lose a little thickness, or

b) rip them a little wide and then to final thickness after they do
reacclimate.

Almost certainly a moisture equilibrium problem--whether case hardening
owing to bad kiln temperature cycle or uneven air drying or storage
problems after the fact is indeterminate w/o knowing the history, obviously.

--

* The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
* * But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

Pete, it sounds like you might have some wood that is still releasing
its stress.

Are you saying you joint one edge and it is perfectly straight but by
the time you go to saw it the wood has developed a crook? See this
sight for image of crook http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/wood...ng-twist-91704

If so the wood needs to stabalize for a while. Also, you could make a
sled to cut this stuff but kind of hard to do for long boards.

If you are saying the entire board is pulling away from the fence,
then you have a different problem fixable by feather boards or other
similar methods.

Also, you could be doing a bad job of jointing and actually jointing
in that crook. Joint two boards and fit them up along the jointed
edges. they should be flat against each other with no gap.

If it starts crooking as you saw it you have a very dangerous
situation with stress filled boards. Be ready for disaster.

Here is something you might try if it is crooking as you cut. Run a
pass to just cut a 1/8": deep kerf. Then rasi the blade another 1/8"
rinse and repeat until the cut is finished. Even so if the boards warp
after you have badly stressed wood.

On 1/26/2012 12:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
....

... if the boards warp
after you have badly stressed wood.

Not his problem; it's moisture inequilibrium from one of many possible
causes which one (or more) of which is/are indeterminate for lack of
complete information.

It's moisture because he notes that after they strip that has
flexed/bent/bowed/whateveryouwishtocallit has had time to reachieve a
surface equilibrium it reverts to straight (or nearly so).
Reaction/stressed wood will not recover in that manner.

--

On 1/26/2012 5:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
....

They bend either because of internal stresses or inequality in moisture. If
the first, there is nothing you can do (short of using a bandsaw); if the
second - which seems likely since they later straighten - let the boards
acclimate until they are dryer.

Bingo! on the latter...

The former a bandsaw won't make any difference either; they'll still
move when the stress is relieved (altho one could avoid the fence
problem which may be all you were intending; just pointing this out to
OP in case not obvious to him).

--

"Pete S" wrote in message
news
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of them
are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to the
table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows away from
the blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence a
little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the slats
from having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Pete Stanaitis

As others have suggested feather boards, or a power feeder, could be used.
Alternatively, cut the boards with the fence set to 1 5/8" to allow for the
problem you describe. Then run them, on edge, through your thickness planer.
The planer will make the edges parallel. If as you say they straighten out
after a while you'll be able to get your desired, consistent, 1 1/2" width
without having to wait for them to dry further. You might want to joint the
board between slices... though you might not need to.

I just did something similar as the magnetic switch on my table saw failed.
Rather than do nothing while waiting for the new switch to arrive I cut
everything on the bandsaw. Then I jointed an edge and ran the boards through
the thickness planer. It worked fine and my project got done.

John

On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 22:41:39 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/25/12 10:14 PM, Pete S wrote:
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of
them are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to the
table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows away from
the blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence
a little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the
slats from having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

My first thought would be to make the cuts with the widest part of the
board against the fence... in other words, cut off the 1-1/2" on the
non-fence side of the blade. that way it bows away from the blade and
has nothing to bind against.

Yes, this means you have to set up the fence for every cut. If you're
worried about then not being exact duplicate cuts, cut them a little
proud, then set the fence to 1-1/2" and cut them again to be exact
duplicates.

Before I had a good table say and wanted a bunch of duplicates like
this, I would cut them all proud, then run a bunch of them, side-by-side
as a group, though the planer.
Sounds to me like the heat of the cut is causing the bow. Your blade
is sharp - is it clean? If it has resin buildup on it , it will run
hotter.

Another possibility is a "short fence"
Just fasten a 5/8" plywood or whatever to the fence - stopping about
mid-blade so the bow can go wherever it wants without moving the work
away from the fence or the blade.

In article ,
Pete S wrote:
I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
They have been rough planed to this thickness and that finish is good
enough for the job at hand.
In my humble experience, they seem to be pretty nice boards. Most of them
are pretty straight.
The edges are rough off the sawmill.
So--- I jointed one edge to make them dead flat. Now I take them to the
table saw. It's a pretty new Delta hybrid saw with a nice sharp carbide
blade. When I rip the board, the 1 1/2 inch strip that I am cutting is
closest to the fence. About 1/3rd of the time the slat bows away from the
blade, pushing the still uncut part of the board away from the fence a
little bit, let's say as much as 1/8". This, of course, keeps the slats from
having a consistent width.
The slats that did this, when the cut is complete, are, indeed, warped.
But, if I wait an hour or so, most of the warp is gone from the slats.
What can I do to prevent this bowing away from the blade?

Pete Stanaitis
----------------



Attach a board to your fence that is about 1/2 the length of the fence. The
end farthest from the front should be right about where the cutting edge
of the saw blade is. Naturally reposition the fence as needed to cut the 1.5"
strips with the board attached. The space behind the board will allow the
maple strip to curve or bow without pushing on the stock. I think you
find some examples by googling something like "table saw half fence"


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On 1/26/2012 6:25 PM, Larry W wrote:

Attach a board to your fence that is about 1/2 the length of the fence. The
end farthest from the front should be right about where the cutting edge
of the saw blade is. Naturally reposition the fence as needed to cut the 1.5"
strips with the board attached. The space behind the board will allow the
maple strip to curve or bow without pushing on the stock. I think you
find some examples by googling something like "table saw half fence"

That works great, and is an excellent tip for ripping reaction wood.

Big caveat, though. The OP will definitely want to use a splitter in
case the reaction wood closes up behind the blade, which can put you big
trouble once you push past the end of the half fence with no splitter.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

In article ,
Swingman wrote:
On 1/26/2012 6:25 PM, Larry W wrote:

Attach a board to your fence that is about 1/2 the length of the fence. The
end farthest from the front should be right about where the cutting edge
of the saw blade is. Naturally reposition the fence as needed to cut the 1.5"
strips with the board attached. The space behind the board will allow the
maple strip to curve or bow without pushing on the stock. I think you
find some examples by googling something like "table saw half fence"

That works great, and is an excellent tip for ripping reaction wood.

Big caveat, though. The OP will definitely want to use a splitter in
case the reaction wood closes up behind the blade, which can put you big
trouble once you push past the end of the half fence with no splitter.


Absolutely right of course. I am in the habit of ALWAYS having the splitter
installed except for dados or other cuts where that's impossible. I guess
I should be more mindful that others may not follow the same practice.
That's the best thing about a riving knive setup, there's much less need
to ever remove it compared to a splitter.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler. (Albert Einstein)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Subject

This is a natural for a "Board Buddy" with yellow wheels.

Try ripping 1-1/2" x 5/8" x 24 ft long strips from wet Doug Fir,
nominal 2 x 12 x 24 ft wet construction timbers without one.

BTDT.

Lew

Larry W wrote:

I am in the habit of ALWAYS having the splitter
installed except for dados or other cuts where that's impossible.

Me too ... Mine is what's left after you take off the plastic shields,
pawls and springs from a unisaw blade guard. Works good though, and removes
and installs in seconds. Rare is the rip made without it.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Larry W wrote:

I am in the habit of ALWAYS having the splitter
installed except for dados or other cuts where that's impossible.

Me too ... Mine is what's left after you take off the plastic shields,
pawls and springs from a unisaw blade guard. Works good though, and
removes
and installs in seconds. Rare is the rip made without it.

Over the past 10 years or so I've had Biesemeyer T-Splitters on my
contractor and cabinet saws. I am very good about making sure they are
installed on through cuts. They are easy to take on and off and work well...
the potential alternative is painful. ;~)

John

They vary from about 4 1/2" wide to about 7" wide.
Pete Stanaitis
----------------

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
.com...

"Pete S" wrote:

I have about forty 15/16" thick soft maple boards that are about 6 feet
long. I need to rip them into 1 1/2" wide strips.
--------------------
HOw wide are the boards on average?

Lew

"Pete S" wrote:

They vary from about 4 1/2" wide to about 7" wide.
----------------------------
Based on the above, I'd set up the T/S with a splitter and feather
boards along with the fence set to 3-3/16".

Joint one edge and run thru T/S.

Reset fence to 1-1/2" and complete the job.

The above will minimize any twist of the 1-1/2" strips.

A Board Buddy with yellow wheels is still the best solution, IMHO.

Have fun.

Lew