I have only recentlydiscovered router tables but wasn't sure I really needed
one. So I picked up an inexpensive Ryobi at HD and put my old Craftsman
router on it. WELL, I have learned how valuable and versatile a RT can be
and not I more fully understand why a good one is better than a not-as-good
one.

I upgraded my router to a PC with the controls that I can raise, lower, and
lock it from the table top. Now I need to upgrade the table.

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest and
best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice and
would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so that I
can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table itself and build
the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained
inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph

Build one.

I built Norm's from the NYW.

Plans are still available.

Lew

In article , Ralph
Compton wrote:

I have only recentlydiscovered router tables but wasn't sure I really needed
one. So I picked up an inexpensive Ryobi at HD and put my old Craftsman
router on it. WELL, I have learned how valuable and versatile a RT can be
and not I more fully understand why a good one is better than a not-as-good
one.

I upgraded my router to a PC with the controls that I can raise, lower, and
lock it from the table top. Now I need to upgrade the table.

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest and
best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice and
would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so that I
can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table itself and build
the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained
inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Just build one. Melamine covered termite spit works fine, and is
relatively cheap.


Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph


--
Woodworking and more at http://www.woodenwabbits.com

On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 18:36:21 -0800, "Ralph Compton"
wrote:

I have only recentlydiscovered router tables but wasn't sure I really needed
one. So I picked up an inexpensive Ryobi at HD and put my old Craftsman
router on it. WELL, I have learned how valuable and versatile a RT can be
and not I more fully understand why a good one is better than a not-as-good
one.

I upgraded my router to a PC with the controls that I can raise, lower, and
lock it from the table top. Now I need to upgrade the table.

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest and
best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice and
would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so that I
can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table itself and build
the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained
inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph

Bench Dog. I love mine.

You can buy a top, you can buy a table top model, you can buy a
complete model.
http://www.benchdog.com/products.cfm

On 12/7/2011 8:36 PM, Ralph Compton wrote:
I have only recentlydiscovered router tables but wasn't sure I really
needed one. So I picked up an inexpensive Ryobi at HD and put my old
Craftsman router on it. WELL, I have learned how valuable and versatile
a RT can be and not I more fully understand why a good one is better
than a not-as-good one.

I upgraded my router to a PC with the controls that I can raise, lower,
and lock it from the table top. Now I need to upgrade the table.

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest and
best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice and
would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so
that I can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table itself
and build the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained
inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph

I built mine using 3/4 inch melamine covered MDF from the local big box,
added a split fence from Harbor Freight and got an aluminum insert at
one of the woodworking shows. Total cost about $70. I work out of a
single stall in my garage, so most of my stuff is on wheels.

Larry

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph

Look at Rockler, Woodcraft and Woodpeckers.com

You can buy just a plate to hold your router and build the table op
yourself out of melamine ply or plastic laminate on ply.
Or you can buy a top, several sizes available.
Can also build or buy a fence
I have the big Woodpecker, a sidwinder lift and super fence setup and
absolutley love it

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
b.com...
Build one.

I built Norm's from the NYW.

Plans are still available.

Lew



Ditto. I made a few modifications. And I painted it to match my Jet planer
and the jointer.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...18424/Routers#

Max

Max wrote the following:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
b.com...
Build one.

I built Norm's from the NYW.

Plans are still available.

Lew



Ditto. I made a few modifications. And I painted it to match my Jet
planer and the jointer.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...18424/Routers#

Max




That's beautiful. I would keep that in my bathroom. :-)

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 21:16:07 -0700, "Max"
wrote:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...
Build one.

I built Norm's from the NYW.

Plans are still available.

Lew



Ditto. I made a few modifications. And I painted it to match my Jet planer
and the jointer.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...18424/Routers#

Sweetly done, Max. And not painted _gray_, as far too many folks are
wont to do.


Now put a base in there which leaves the DC tube opening flush with
the bottom and slanted sides which funnel the dust to the center and
you're all set.

--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On 12/8/2011 9:12 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 21:16:07 -0700,
wrote:

"Lew wrote in message
b.com...
Build one.

I built Norm's from the NYW.

Plans are still available.

Lew



Ditto. I made a few modifications. And I painted it to match my Jet planer
and the jointer.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...18424/Routers#

Sweetly done, Max. And not painted _gray_, as far too many folks are
wont to do.


Now put a base in there which leaves the DC tube opening flush with
the bottom and slanted sides which funnel the dust to the center and
you're all set.

--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson

Comment to Original Poster.

If you have not done biscuit with on the router table, you have not
lived. I have a slot cutter that I use with the router table and make
a lot of picture frames. It takes a minute to set up the fence and
cutter height to get the slot in the right position in the miter. Once
set up, you can cut a couple of dozen biscuit slots, in a couple of
minutes. Much faster the a biscuit cutter.

Comment on Color.
Several years ago I made a work bench and instead of paint, I varnished
it. That was about 15 years ago and it still looks good. 15 year old
paint on wood starts to look shabby as it gets dirty and dinged.

"Larry Jaques" ,

"Max" wrote:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...18424/Routers#

Sweetly done, Max. And not painted _gray_, as far too many folks are
wont to do.


Now put a base in there which leaves the DC tube opening flush with
the bottom and slanted sides which funnel the dust to the center and
you're all set.

Close compromise:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...75430835046962

Max

On 12/7/2011 9:22 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 18:36:21 -0800, "Ralph Compton"
wrote:

I have only recentlydiscovered router tables but wasn't sure I really needed
one. So I picked up an inexpensive Ryobi at HD and put my old Craftsman
router on it. WELL, I have learned how valuable and versatile a RT can be
and not I more fully understand why a good one is better than a not-as-good
one.

I upgraded my router to a PC with the controls that I can raise, lower, and
lock it from the table top. Now I need to upgrade the table.

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest and
best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice and
would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so that I
can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table itself and build
the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained
inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph

Bench Dog. I love mine.

You can buy a top, you can buy a table top model, you can buy a
complete model.
http://www.benchdog.com/products.cfm

Agree with the Bench Dog,I have had mine for over 10 years and still
works great.

On 12/8/2011 8:30 AM, knuttle wrote:
On 12/8/2011 9:12 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:


Comment on Color.
Several years ago I made a work bench and instead of paint, I varnished
it. That was about 15 years ago and it still looks good. 15 year old
paint on wood starts to look shabby as it gets dirty and dinged.

Vs. wood colored, dirty, and dinged? :~)

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:36:21 -0800, Ralph Compton wrote:

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest
and best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice
and would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so
that I can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table
itself and build the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained
inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Well, JessEm is the best but they are spendy. As others have suggested,
it's not that hard to build one. Google "router table plans"

Since you have a small shop, there are a couple of alternatives you might
want to consider. One is a table that replaces one of the wings on your
table saw. I had one like that for years and it worked fine. Then I
went with a different saw with no wings. What I have now is a table top
I got from MLCS (Icould have made one) mounted on folding brackets
attached to one end of a tool stand. Either would save you space.

If you decide to buy rather than build, check out this website:

http://routertablereview.com/

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 12/8/2011 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/8/2011 8:30 AM, knuttle wrote:
On 12/8/2011 9:12 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:


Comment on Color.
Several years ago I made a work bench and instead of paint, I varnished
it. That was about 15 years ago and it still looks good. 15 year old
paint on wood starts to look shabby as it gets dirty and dinged.

Vs. wood colored, dirty, and dinged? :~)

I applied SPECIAL varnish ;-)

On 12/8/2011 1:12 PM, knuttle wrote:
On 12/8/2011 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/8/2011 8:30 AM, knuttle wrote:
On 12/8/2011 9:12 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:


Comment on Color.
Several years ago I made a work bench and instead of paint, I varnished
it. That was about 15 years ago and it still looks good. 15 year old
paint on wood starts to look shabby as it gets dirty and dinged.

Vs. wood colored, dirty, and dinged? :~)

I applied SPECIAL varnish ;-)


Ahhhhhhh I see LOL

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 12/8/2011 1:12 PM, knuttle wrote:
On 12/8/2011 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/8/2011 8:30 AM, knuttle wrote:
On 12/8/2011 9:12 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:


Comment on Color.
Several years ago I made a work bench and instead of paint, I varnished
it. That was about 15 years ago and it still looks good. 15 year old
paint on wood starts to look shabby as it gets dirty and dinged.

Vs. wood colored, dirty, and dinged? :~)

I applied SPECIAL varnish ;-)


Ahhhhhhh I see LOL


This is what I used:

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=161

Max

On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 09:44:25 -0700, "Max"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" ,

"Max" wrote:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...18424/Routers#

Sweetly done, Max. And not painted _gray_, as far too many folks are
wont to do.


Now put a base in there which leaves the DC tube opening flush with
the bottom and slanted sides which funnel the dust to the center and
you're all set.

Close compromise:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...75430835046962

I saw that. Doesn't it leave an inch of sawdust all over the bottom
of the bin? How about adding an inner tube with open bottom so it
would clear the bin for you? Even a 90-degree elbow would work.

http://www.woodpeck.com/media/downdraft.pdf This style is best.

I don't remember where I saw the angled bin bottom, maybe an old
Woodsmith mag or sumpin', but they're out there.

--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson

"Larry Jaques" wrote,

"Max" wrote


Close compromise:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...75430835046962

I saw that. Doesn't it leave an inch of sawdust all over the bottom
of the bin? How about adding an inner tube with open bottom so it
would clear the bin for you? Even a 90-degree elbow would work.

http://www.woodpeck.com/media/downdraft.pdf This style is best.

I don't remember where I saw the angled bin bottom, maybe an old
Woodsmith mag or sumpin', but they're out there.

Since I drilled several holes (after the picture was taken) in the bottom of
the door the suction is strong enough to pretty well clear the bin. At
least sufficiently to be able to change routers without encountering a lot
of dust. Whenever I finish a project I vacuum out the "whole works".

Max

On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 16:21:52 -0700, "Max"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote,

"Max" wrote


Close compromise:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1135996...75430835046962

I saw that. Doesn't it leave an inch of sawdust all over the bottom
of the bin? How about adding an inner tube with open bottom so it
would clear the bin for you? Even a 90-degree elbow would work.

http://www.woodpeck.com/media/downdraft.pdf This style is best.

I don't remember where I saw the angled bin bottom, maybe an old
Woodsmith mag or sumpin', but they're out there.

Since I drilled several holes (after the picture was taken) in the bottom of
the door the suction is strong enough to pretty well clear the bin. At
least sufficiently to be able to change routers without encountering a lot
of dust. Whenever I finish a project I vacuum out the "whole works".

Yep. Whatever floats yer boat.

--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson

Definitely considering building my own, not comfortable yet with some of the
skills needed to put in t-track, inserts, etc.



Thanks for all the information to consider, now on out to the garage and
stare at wood for a while.



Ralph





"Ralph Compton" wrote in message
m...
I have only recentlydiscovered router tables but wasn't sure I really
needed one. So I picked up an inexpensive Ryobi at HD and put my old
Craftsman router on it. WELL, I have learned how valuable and versatile a
RT can be and not I more fully understand why a good one is better than a
not-as-good one.

I upgraded my router to a PC with the controls that I can raise, lower,
and lock it from the table top. Now I need to upgrade the table.

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest and
best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice and
would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so that
I can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table itself and
build the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained
inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph

"Ralph Compton" wrote:

Definitely considering building my own, not comfortable yet with
some of the skills needed to put in t-track, inserts, etc.
----------------------------------
SFWIW, I built the NYW station using ONLY a Bosch saber saw, PC690
hand held router, ROS hand sander, a straight edge and a couple of
clamps.

A friend allowed me access to his drill press which made life easier.

Have fun.

Lew

Thanks.

I think I will do it myself as that looks to be the only way I can afford
something large enough to suit me. Cabinetry is no big thing, I've made
various cabinets and have recently begun to make drawers. I am somewhat
intimidated by the need for precision (flatness) in making the actual
tabletop and insert. But I suspect I'll get over that. I especially like
the idea that if I build it myself I can make a double-duty (or more) tool.

Ralph


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
b.com...

"Ralph Compton" wrote:

Definitely considering building my own, not comfortable yet with some of
the skills needed to put in t-track, inserts, etc.
----------------------------------
SFWIW, I built the NYW station using ONLY a Bosch saber saw, PC690 hand
held router, ROS hand sander, a straight edge and a couple of clamps.

A friend allowed me access to his drill press which made life easier.

Have fun.

Lew

"Ralph Compton" wrote in message
m...

Definitely considering building my own, not comfortable yet with some of the
skills needed to put in t-track, inserts, etc.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are not comfortable with that, build the professional version. Take a
piece of plywood, drill a 1.5" hole in it. Mount your router to the board,
centered on the hole. Flip the assembly over, set on saw horses, clamp to
workbench or whatever is handy. Two C clamps and a strait board for a fence
and you are in business.

I think I could probably handle that. One of my friends (a tile installer)
calls it a jobsite router table.


"CW" wrote in message
m...


"Ralph Compton" wrote in message
m...

Definitely considering building my own, not comfortable yet with some of
the
skills needed to put in t-track, inserts, etc.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are not comfortable with that, build the professional version. Take
a piece of plywood, drill a 1.5" hole in it. Mount your router to the
board, centered on the hole. Flip the assembly over, set on saw horses,
clamp to workbench or whatever is handy. Two C clamps and a strait board
for a fence and you are in business.

I made a table last year. One thing I'm very glad I did was make it
46 inches high. It's a very convenient height.

You'll end up routing three slots. Two for the fence and one for the
miter. I used a type of double slotted T track that has both miter
and T track slots. You need the T track as a way to hold feather
boards.

My top is two layers of 3/4 plywood. the base is glued and screwed
together, and the whole thing is bolted to a top that it shares back-
to-back with a sander. Very stable.

When you have to drill the insert to position your router, take the
face plate from the router and mount it on the insert with a centering
pin and hold it in place with double faced tape. The centering has to
be perfect. The only way to do that is to use the faceplate as a
drilling guide.

http://routermaniac.hubpages.com/hub...-by-Step-Guide

One of these wrenches comes in handy.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Wrenches/products/556/

Here's a dust collection port you can make easily. I generally don't
like Gorilla glue, but I used it on this and it holds the PVC to the
plywood. No signs of any problems.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip020726ws.html

It's also nice to have one of these power switches at knee level:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&rrt=1

Last year when I was dealing with all this, a lot of the guys here
gave me good advice. Here's a link to the thread. The third post by
Neil Brookes helped clarify my thinking.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.w...d8d a4f7e17fd