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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing
room. I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) to make sure there was no contamination. I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Sat, 22 Oct 2011 13:01:33 -0700 (PDT), RonB
wrote: Oak plywood. The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) to make sure there was no contamination. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? It's not uncommon for sheet goods, especially plywood to raise the grain. One practice I often employ is to spray a light mist of water on unfinished plywood to raise the grain. I sand that down lightly and then apply my stain or paint or whatever coating I prefer. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 22, 3:25*pm, Dave wrote:
On Sat, 22 Oct 2011 13:01:33 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote: Oak plywood. *The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) *to make sure there was no contamination. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. *Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? It's not uncommon for sheet goods, especially plywood to raise the grain. One practice I often employ is to spray a light mist of water on unfinished plywood to raise the grain. I sand that down lightly and then apply my stain or paint or whatever coating I prefer. I have used pre-stain conditioner a few times to raise the grain a bit and then sand. But this time it looked like a gravel road. Well, OK - a slight exaggeration ;o) |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
Ron - even though I do finishing as part of my professional routine, I
find that the differences in veneers, sources of veneers, outgassing from the underlying glues, and the mystery woods they use to clad the core make it a challenge even with good technique. It almost seems like it doesn't matter where the plywood comes from or what name is stamped on it. I hate to add a step, but I think it is worthwhile. My customers won't pay for something they think is substandard ( I wouldn't either !! ) so I need to get it right. I am a big proponent of NOT sanding beyond 220, and more of a fan of concentrating on technique. But desperate materials require desperate measures. - **Lightly** sand to 320. While I have never seen the need to this point to do so (and been critical of those that **** away the time because they don't want to start finishing), I have found success using 320 with the softer veneers of unknown woods used to make cab ply. 320 generally smooths the older hardwoods too much to provide great traction, but we can counteract that - Use a conditioner to lightly treat the wood before coloring - Color the wood with oil or solvent based colors, NOT water based, and allow to dry completely - Apply a very thin (but thick enough to cover with no voids) coat of dewaxed shellac or as available sanding sealer. This is NOT a sanding coat, but builds a bondable substrate. I cut the Bullseye sanding sealer down by as much as 50% and simply spray it on - Carefully sand any nibs, NOT the whole piece. Wipe the sandpaper across it if you get ripple, but do not sand industriously as your surface should be smooth before you start this process - Apply your top coat of your finish as normal I have tried and tried to use water borne finishes, and while they are fine in some cases, they aren't as reliable as the solvent based finishes. This is not a failure of the product as much as it is the challenges presented by the material to be finished. I want repeatability. While some of the waterborne finishes are outstanding (ML Campbell, Sherwin Williams, Varathane, etc.) I don't find them to be as forgiving as solvent based. And the big selling point to using latex is the fact that it is easier to cleanup and has less fumes. That is total bull****. While they *might* expulse less gasses, they gasses they do (formaldehyde, ammonias, etc.) are just as dangerous as any solvent. Since I wear a mask and gloves for most of my finishing (everyone should) I figure since I am already uncomfortable, I don't need to do it twice. Good luck with your project. And as always, practice on a scrap, not your project. Robert |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
In ,
RonB typed: I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing room. I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) to make sure there was no contamination. I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB Hi ron, Blamng HD isn't cool because you need to blame the source; which could be one of many and found at many other POS also. Repeatability you'll seldom find even among the same batches, so testing on throw-away scraps can be important IMO, but not 100% relable even then. You just have to develop methods that work across a broad range and work on them. I guess the only really useful thing I can say is to stick to non-water-based products - it seems to go a lot better ALL the time for me. OTOH I haven't used a lot of the "new" plywood lately so there could be more changes to it I'm not aware of. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
Twayne wrote:
In , RonB typed: I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing room. I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) to make sure there was no contamination. I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB Hi ron, Blamng HD isn't cool because you need to blame the source; which could be one of many and found at many other POS also. Repeatability you'll seldom find even among the same batches, so testing on throw-away scraps can be important IMO, but not 100% relable even then. You just have to develop methods that work across a broad range and work on them. I guess the only really useful thing I can say is to stick to non-water-based products - it seems to go a lot better ALL the time for me. OTOH I haven't used a lot of the "new" plywood lately so there could be more changes to it I'm not aware of. Along that line - I'm wondering if some of these plywoods are using a softer veneer than what we're used to with traditional hardwood plys. If that's the case, proper cleaning prep becomes even more important. I have found that what I thought was grain lifting was really very fine sanding residue. With these woods, are really good tack rag is your friend. -- -Mike- |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 22, 7:45*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: Twayne wrote: In , RonB typed: I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing room. *I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. *All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. *It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. *The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) *to make sure there was no contamination. *I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. *Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB Hi ron, Blamng HD isn't cool because you need to blame the source; which could be one of many and found at many other POS also. Repeatability you'll seldom find even among the same batches, so testing on throw-away scraps can be important IMO, but not 100% relable even then. You just have to develop methods that work across a broad range * and work on them. I guess the only really useful thing I can say is to stick to non-water-based products - it seems to go a lot better * ALL the time for me. OTOH I haven't used a lot of the "new" plywood lately so there could be more changes to it I'm not aware of. Along that line - I'm wondering if some of these plywoods are using a softer veneer than what we're used to with traditional hardwood plys. *If that's the case, proper cleaning prep becomes even more important. *I have found that what I thought was grain lifting was really very fine sanding residue. With these woods, are really good tack rag is your friend. But don't wipe too hard or the 'veneer' will come right off... |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On 10/22/11 6:46 PM, Robatoy wrote:
But don't wipe too hard or the 'veneer' will come right off... I refer to that as a rubber stamp of wood. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On 10/22/2011 3:01 PM, RonB wrote:
I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing room. I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) to make sure there was no contamination. I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB That is pretty much normal results if you are using a water based product. That is typically not a problem with oil based. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
Baloney!
Just read some of the dozens of complaints here over the last few years about grain arising problems with any kind of stain. Maybe speak from some real experience instead of just trolling. ---------- "Leon" wrote in message ... That is pretty much normal results if you are using a water based product. That is typically not a problem with oil based. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 23, 12:04*am, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 10/22/2011 3:01 PM, RonB wrote: RonB That is pretty much normal results if you are using a water based product. *That is typically not a problem with oil based. Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
I've used oak and birch plywood from Home Depot, and I had decent luck using a cabinet scraper before applying a finish, not sand paper. The finish is very smooth, and yet the surface had enough traction to hold the finish well. The only problem with the birch plywood was the heinous smell of the glue when cutting.
Mike |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 22, 3:01*pm, RonB wrote:
I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing room. *I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. *All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. *It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. *The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) *to make sure there was no contamination. *I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. *Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. *Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB Ron, I refer to plywood at the big box stores as "junk ply". What Lowes sells as "cabinet grade" is not fit to enter my shop. I long ago found that there is a big difference in quality between the "junk ply" and what is sold as cabinet grade ply at the local lumber yard. I pay more, but I get quality stuff and service. In one instance I had some de-amination occuring while I cut the stuff to size. I showed a piece to my supplier. He sent a truck to pick up the remainder of the stuff and bring new ply from a different batch. The old stuff went back to the manufacturer. All of this was accompanied by copius (sp) apologies and regrets. I use all water based products now and have had no problems with "water." The easiest method for me is to spray on water based dyes (wipe a bit if it does not go on evenly), let it dry, spray on a coat of Hydrocote Resistane Plus, sand a bit and then follow up with more Resistane Plus. Rub out if you want a different level of smoothness or gloss. I'm and amateur and the latest laws on using volatile lacquers and finishes do not apply to me, but all professionals using more that a few gallons a week are supposed to (must) switch to water based products to satisfy the latest laws. We all might as well get started and say goodbye (sniff) to our favorite solvent based lacquers and other finishes. The handwriting is on the wall. my $.02 cents Len |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On 10/23/2011 9:41 AM, RonB wrote:
On Oct 23, 12:04 am, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 10/22/2011 3:01 PM, RonB wrote: RonB That is pretty much normal results if you are using a water based product. That is typically not a problem with oil based. Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. I use oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 23, 12:12*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. *The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. *I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. *I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. *I use *oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. *Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, *I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. *I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On 10/23/2011 1:16 PM, RonB wrote:
On Oct 23, 12:12 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. I use oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB Well then there you go Ron, you know what to do. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 22, 7:46*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 22, 7:45*pm, "Mike Marlow" wrote: Twayne wrote: In , RonB typed: I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing room. *I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. *All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. *It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. *The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) *to make sure there was no contamination. *I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. *Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB Hi ron, Blamng HD isn't cool because you need to blame the source; which could be one of many and found at many other POS also. Repeatability you'll seldom find even among the same batches, so testing on throw-away scraps can be important IMO, but not 100% relable even then. You just have to develop methods that work across a broad range * and work on them. I guess the only really useful thing I can say is to stick to non-water-based products - it seems to go a lot better * ALL the time for me. OTOH I haven't used a lot of the "new" plywood lately so there could be more changes to it I'm not aware of. Along that line - I'm wondering if some of these plywoods are using a softer veneer than what we're used to with traditional hardwood plys. *If that's the case, proper cleaning prep becomes even more important. *I have found that what I thought was grain lifting was really very fine sanding residue. With these woods, are really good tack rag is your friend. But don't wipe too hard or the 'veneer' will come right off... Also.... The more I learn about Home Depot's political posturing, the more difficult I find it to go into their stores. Lowe's is opening a new store next door, here in Sarnia. I can't wait as I certainly like dealing with Lowe's in both Port Huron MI and London, ON. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 23, 4:32*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 10/23/2011 1:16 PM, RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 12:12 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet *wrote: Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. *The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. *I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. *I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. *I use *oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. *Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, *I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. *I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. *We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. *That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. *I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. *I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. *Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB Well then there you go Ron, you know what to do. Yeah, I know. But I am going to have to contact the "This Old House" commercial guys and order some "elbow grease"! |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 17:40:07 -0700 (PDT), RonB
wrote: On Oct 23, 4:32*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 10/23/2011 1:16 PM, RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 12:12 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet *wrote: Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. *The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. *I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. *I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. *I use *oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. *Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, *I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. *I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. *We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. *That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. *I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. *I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. *Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB Well then there you go Ron, you know what to do. Yeah, I know. But I am going to have to contact the "This Old House" commercial guys and order some "elbow grease"! Not even! The finer grits take less and less pressure to work. Relaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx! Breathe in deeeeeeply. "Repeat after me 'Un yaleman. Un yaleman.' as you sink deeper and deeper into your subconscious." he said in a deep Indian accent. (So who knows the source for that particular material, hmm?) -- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. -- Freeman Dyson |
#20
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 23, 8:56*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 17:40:07 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 4:32*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 10/23/2011 1:16 PM, RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 12:12 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet *wrote: Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. *The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. *I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. *I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. *I use *oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. *Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, *I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. *I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. *We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. *That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. *I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. *I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. *Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB Well then there you go Ron, you know what to do. Yeah, I know. *But I am going to have to contact the "This Old House" commercial guys and order some "elbow grease"! Not even! *The finer grits take less and less pressure to work. Relaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx! Breathe in deeeeeeply. "Repeat after me 'Un yaleman. Un yaleman.' as you sink deeper and deeper into your subconscious." he said in a deep Indian accent. (So who knows the source for that particular material, hmm?) That would be weed. |
#21
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
Robatoy wrote:
Also.... The more I learn about Home Depot's political posturing, the more difficult I find it to go into their stores. Lowe's is opening a new store next door, here in Sarnia. I can't wait as I certainly like dealing with Lowe's in both Port Huron MI and London, ON. What is it that you are learning about THD's political posturing? I don't keep up with this stuff, so you have my interest. -- -Mike- |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 23, 9:12*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: Robatoy wrote: Also.... The more I learn about Home Depot's political posturing, the more difficult I find it to go into their stores. Lowe's is opening a new store next door, here in Sarnia. I can't wait as I certainly like dealing with Lowe's in both Port Huron MI and London, ON. What is it that you are learning about THD's political posturing? *I don't keep up with this stuff, so you have my interest. -- -Mike- This oughtta hold ya for a while LOL. http://tinyurl.com/3mc7zl4 |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 18:07:29 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote: On Oct 23, 8:56*pm, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 17:40:07 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 4:32*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 10/23/2011 1:16 PM, RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 12:12 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet *wrote: Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. *The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. *I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. *I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. *I use *oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. *Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, *I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. *I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. *We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. *That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. *I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. *I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. *Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB Well then there you go Ron, you know what to do. Yeah, I know. *But I am going to have to contact the "This Old House" commercial guys and order some "elbow grease"! Not even! *The finer grits take less and less pressure to work. Relaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx! Breathe in deeeeeeply. "Repeat after me 'Un yaleman. Un yaleman.' as you sink deeper and deeper into your subconscious." he said in a deep Indian accent. (So who knows the source for that particular material, hmm?) That would be weed. Close. What was the album title? -- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. -- Freeman Dyson |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 23, 8:59*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 18:07:29 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy wrote: On Oct 23, 8:56*pm, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 17:40:07 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 4:32*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 10/23/2011 1:16 PM, RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 12:12 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet *wrote: Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. *The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning. *I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. *I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. *I use *oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. *Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, *I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. *I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. *We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. *That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. *I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. *I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better.. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. *Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB Well then there you go Ron, you know what to do. Yeah, I know. *But I am going to have to contact the "This Old House" commercial guys and order some "elbow grease"! Not even! *The finer grits take less and less pressure to work. Relaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx! Breathe in deeeeeeply. "Repeat after me 'Un yaleman. Un yaleman.' as you sink deeper and deeper into your subconscious." he said in a deep Indian accent. (So who knows the source for that particular material, hmm?) That would be weed. Close. *What was the album title? -- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Freeman Dyson Eerrrrr... I think this string has officially digressed! ) |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 23, 10:55*pm, RonB wrote:
On Oct 23, 8:59*pm, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 18:07:29 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy wrote: On Oct 23, 8:56*pm, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 17:40:07 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 4:32*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 10/23/2011 1:16 PM, RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 12:12 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet *wrote: Nope - I'm using oil based stain and poly. *The main labor-culprit now is a 3' x 9' work surface that I started sanding this morning.. *I am having to be very careful to stay out of the stain and might have gotten into it in a couple of places. *I think I am going to get it as good as I can, and then add a coat and work it down. Ron In that case is it raised grain or simply a less than stellar application. *I use *oil based gel varnishes, slop them on and immediately smooth the whole whole surface with a clean rag. *Very Very often the surface feels like dust got on it and it feels like sand is on the surface. The quick solution after the LAST coat has dried is to wrap a piece of paper, *I use printer paper, around a block of wood and rub the entire surface a few strokes. *I get a baby's butt smooth surface in seconds. My wife applied the first coat and she is pretty good at it. *We did most of the finish work on our new house and she has done top finishing on most of the work; and she, has done it well. *That said, she said she did put the first coat on the bench top a little heavy, and that might have exaggerated a grain lift on less that great plywood. *I was looking at the remaining stock in the garage and you can BARELY see the veneer from the edge. *I just did a second coat over the sanded finish and it looks like it is going to be better. Regarding using paper - I have used a brown grocery sack, on a sanding block, for finish sanding some furniture pieces. *Even using a semi- gloss finish, it produces a very nice, smooth sheen. RonB Well then there you go Ron, you know what to do. Yeah, I know. *But I am going to have to contact the "This Old House" commercial guys and order some "elbow grease"! Not even! *The finer grits take less and less pressure to work. Relaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx! Breathe in deeeeeeply. "Repeat after me 'Un yaleman. Un yaleman.' as you sink deeper and deeper into your subconscious." he said in a deep Indian accent. (So who knows the source for that particular material, hmm?) That would be weed. Close. *What was the album title? -- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-- Freeman Dyson Eerrrrr... *I think this string has officially digressed! *) C-Less's fault *pointing finger* |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 20:27:33 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote: On Oct 23, 10:55*pm, RonB wrote: On Oct 23, 8:59*pm, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 18:07:29 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy On Oct 23, 10:55*pm, RonB wrote: Yeah, I know. *But I am going to have to contact the "This Old House" commercial guys and order some "elbow grease"! Not even! *The finer grits take less and less pressure to work. Relaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx! Breathe in deeeeeeply. "Repeat after me 'Un yaleman. Un yaleman.' as you sink deeper and deeper into your subconscious." he said in a deep Indian accent. (So who knows the source for that particular material, hmm?) That would be weed. Close. *What was the album title? Eerrrrr... *I think this string has officially digressed! *) C-Less's fault *pointing finger* Pardon me boys, but it's not as if any given thread had any chance in Hell of remaining intact around _these_ parts... BTW, the album was "A Child's Garden of Grass", ca '70s, a whole 'nother life or 2 ago. I'll be dinged, part of it is on YouTube! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtupT_dFxGc -- It is characteristic of all deep human problems that they are not to be approached without some humor and some bewilderment. -- Freeman Dyson |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Update.
On Oct 22, 3:01*pm, RonB wrote:
I just finished some cabinets in our basement for my wife's sewing room. *I have had void problems with HD Oak ply in the past but was lured into buying a couple of sheets by the $20 difference/sheet (tight a**ed Irishman). The plywood worked well and I was pleased to find very few voids. Finishing has turned into a problem. *All surfaces were sanded lightly using 220. *It stained well, with even color, but I noticed the grain came up a little - more than I have ever experienced while staining Oak plywood. *The first coat of poly raised the grain so much I went back and looked in my finish can (Minwax brush on poly) *to make sure there was no contamination. *I also finished a couple of shelves in the garage with Minwax wipe-on which has never given me a problem - same result. *Even after sanding, the second coat of wipe-on on the shelves is very rough. This broke me - I'll never buy hardwood ply from HD again. *Is anyone else having similar problems with HD or other sources? RonB Sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n- sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n- sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n- sand. Finally got the rough raised grained surfaces halfway "smooth" (no grain fibers sticking up through the surface of the finish). Applied coat number two yesterday afternoon, but still some rough and uneven areas this morning. Sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n-sand-n- sand-n-sand Applied third coat this morning and wet surface looks good so far. Might have to work out a few small bubbles X fingers crossed. Again - no more HD ply until they decide to improve quality. Then theirs will cost $20 more too. RonB |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Home Depot Oak Ply - Shame on me.
On Oct 24, 9:10*am, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 20:27:33 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy Pardon me boys, but it's not as if any given thread had any chance in Hell of remaining intact around _these_ parts... This group consists of absolute amateurs when it comes to digressing or posting OT, or OT without "OT" header. Check out the experts..... http://groups.google.com/group/rec.o...topics?lnk=srg And they are on relatively good behavior today!! RonB |
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