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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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Slighly off-topic for a wood working newsgruop . but, hey, there was a
previous thread on the same subject in this group... ... and the previous postings were a real help to me. I bought a "high jack" from NAPA Auto Parts (aka Farm jack) and followed the advice on the postings with a minor exception. Many of the postings advised using a chain. I found that if I used my circular saw to notch out a hold on the post, I could jack the post out without the chain. In the few tough cases, I did use a chain and put it into the notch for easy gripping. Like seveal of the postings also advised, a 2x4 under the jack prevents the jack from sinking down to bedrock.... Just though my "notching" idea might help somebody...or maybe I'm arrogant .. or both....or neither... |
#2
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Would you still have notched the posts if you were planning on reusing them
? Not critizing - legit question. Bob S. "Never Enough Money" wrote in message m... Slighly off-topic for a wood working newsgruop . but, hey, there was a previous thread on the same subject in this group... .. and the previous postings were a real help to me. I bought a "high jack" from NAPA Auto Parts (aka Farm jack) and followed the advice on the postings with a minor exception. Many of the postings advised using a chain. I found that if I used my circular saw to notch out a hold on the post, I could jack the post out without the chain. In the few tough cases, I did use a chain and put it into the notch for easy gripping. Like seveal of the postings also advised, a 2x4 under the jack prevents the jack from sinking down to bedrock.... Just though my "notching" idea might help somebody...or maybe I'm arrogant .. or both....or neither... |
#3
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#4
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Pulling the post depends on what is to follow.
I had a neighbor try to pull some wood 4x4 posts which must have had 2 bags of concrete mix per hole. He wanted to replace the fence with a brick retaining wall. Borrowed my pair of farm jacks - all it did was break the posts off at ground level. I recommended that he break them all off at ground level and rent an electric jackhammer to break the base up if he really needed the concrete removed. If the replacement fence can offset the posts from the originals, then breakoff is the fastest. To replace just ONE post in the line may require removing everything. |
#5
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Thomas Kendrick wrote in
: Pulling the post depends on what is to follow. I had a neighbor try to pull some wood 4x4 posts which must have had 2 bags of concrete mix per hole. He wanted to replace the fence with a brick retaining wall. Borrowed my pair of farm jacks - all it did was break the posts off at ground level. I recommended that he break them all off at ground level and rent an electric jackhammer to break the base up if he really needed the concrete removed. In a similar situation, I just dug down to the concrete (about 6" below surface) and cut the posts off with the sawzall. Filled in the holes and forgot about the concrete. -drl |
#6
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No such luck. The concrete was at the surface around each post, 16"
diameter. This fence was adjacent to an alley paved in concrete. Probably used a concrete truck with a few yards left over to fill these holes. Great for the first owner, but difficult to remove. On Wed, 30 Jun 2004 10:47:57 +0000 (UTC), Kiwanda wrote: In a similar situation, I just dug down to the concrete (about 6" below surface) and cut the posts off with the sawzall. Filled in the holes and forgot about the concrete. -drl |
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