Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Dear Experts,
What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss surface. One option that I've considered is spray-on varnish (which describes itself as polyurethane). Internet research (i.e. the Wikipedia "Lacquer" page) tells me that there are also lacquers based on acrylic and other materials. A friend has shown me something that he has given a very deep high-gloss finish to using epoxy resin! What is the best way to get a good result, without needing years of practice? Thanks for any suggestions, Phil. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
"Phil Endecott" wrote in message ... Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss surface. One option that I've considered is spray-on varnish (which describes itself as polyurethane). Internet research (i.e. the Wikipedia "Lacquer" page) tells me that there are also lacquers based on acrylic and other materials. A friend has shown me something that he has given a very deep high-gloss finish to using epoxy resin! What is the best way to get a good result, without needing years of practice? Polyurethane is pretty much idiot proof for a beginner. Next step is to learn how to use a buff. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Mon, 19 Sep 2011 18:14:58 -0500, "bw" wrote:
"Phil Endecott" wrote in message ... Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss surface. One option that I've considered is spray-on varnish (which describes itself as polyurethane). Internet research (i.e. the Wikipedia "Lacquer" page) tells me that there are also lacquers based on acrylic and other materials. A friend has shown me something that he has given a very deep high-gloss finish to using epoxy resin! What is the best way to get a good result, without needing years of practice? Polyurethane is pretty much idiot proof for a beginner. Next step is to learn how to use a buff. It is? Sand some between coats and tell me what you find. Stain and poly are their own punishment. -- A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description of a happy state in this world. -- John Locke |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
"Phil Endecott" wrote: What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? ---------------------------------- Enough to get into trouble. ----------------------------------- I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss urface. ------------------------------------ Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Where is Robert when you need him? Ahoy Nailshooter. You out there? Lew |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 19, 6:18*pm, Phil Endecott wrote:
Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss surface. *One option that I've considered is spray-on varnish (which describes itself as polyurethane). *Internet research (i.e. the Wikipedia "Lacquer" page) tells me that there are also lacquers based on acrylic and other materials. *A friend has shown me something that he has given a very deep high-gloss finish to using epoxy resin! *What is the best way to get a good result, without needing years of practice? Thanks for any suggestions, Phil. Shellac. Orange / amber gives a nice warm tone to newly surfaced walnut (or cherry), which can be a bit on the cold side, unlike the wood that's had 50+ years to age that you're trying to imitate. To get high gloss, let cure for a week or three, then wet sand through 600 and rub out -- same with lacquer. Varnish is a great protective finish, beautiful rubbed out to satin, but you'll never get as high a gloss as you can with shellac (you can fill and French polish an ash baseball bat so that it literally feels like glass, smooth and cold) or lacquer, even the Minwax brush-on stuff. Too soft. A coat of paste wax to truly finish the job knocks the gloss up a notch more. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On 9/19/2011 5:18 PM, Phil Endecott wrote:
Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss surface. One option that I've considered is spray-on varnish (which describes itself as polyurethane). Internet research (i.e. the Wikipedia "Lacquer" page) tells me that there are also lacquers based on acrylic and other materials. A friend has shown me something that he has given a very deep high-gloss finish to using epoxy resin! What is the best way to get a good result, without needing years of practice? Thanks for any suggestions, Phil. Something from experience, regardless of the finish used the higher the gloss the more the imperfections, low & high spots, and coarseness of grain will show, like a sore thumb. Your surface must be perfect. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 20, 1:06 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Yes, that's the sort of thing that I have in mind, except showing the wood rather than blackness. Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Could you perhaps post a link to the product that you have in mind? My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. Thanks, Phil. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 20, 11:40*am, Phil Endecott wrote:
On Sep 20, 1:06 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Yes, that's the sort of thing that I have in mind, except showing the wood rather than blackness. Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Could you perhaps post a link to the product that you have in mind? My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. You didn't say what the "small object" is, so a definitive recommendation can't be made. Shellac is fine...for some things, but it may have to be waxed to protect it from some things that attack shellac. You could use Deft Brushing Lacquer (it comes in an aerosol, but I like brushes for fussy work), which is harder and more impervious. Multiple coats, with fine sanding in between can be easily done in a day. http://www.deftfinishes.com/trade/pr...ushing-lacquer R |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote the following:
On Sep 20, 1:06 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Yes, that's the sort of thing that I have in mind, except showing the wood rather than blackness. Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Could you perhaps post a link to the product that you have in mind? My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. Thanks, Phil. Rustoleum, Krylon, TrueValue, Plastikote and some others all make gloss black lacquer spray paint. just google gloss black lacquer spray Here's one http://www.destinationpaint.com/11OZ...t-p/688002.htm -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote:
On Sep 20, 1:06 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Yes, that's the sort of thing that I have in mind, except showing the wood rather than blackness. Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Could you perhaps post a link to the product that you have in mind? My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. http://www.google.com/#hl=en&cp=9&gs...iw=932&bih=580 -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 20, 5:07 pm, willshak wrote:
Phil Endecott wrote the following: On Sep 20, 1:06 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Yes, that's the sort of thing that I have in mind, except showing the wood rather than blackness. Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Could you perhaps post a link to the product that you have in mind? My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. Thanks, Phil. Rustoleum, Krylon, TrueValue, Plastikote and some others all make gloss black lacquer spray paint. But I don't want black, I want clear. My local hardware shop has a shelf of Plastikote spray products including the clear PU varnish that I mentioned before, and another product that seems intended to be applied over a matt painted finish to make it glossy. Cheers, Phil. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 20, 5:56 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Phil Endecott wrote: My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. http://www.google.com/#hl=en&cp=9&gs...+lacquer&pf=p&... That mainly finds the stuff for covering metalic car paint, and stuff for fingernails... There are a few products like this one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/chestnut-...0ml-prod19762/ which claim to be "acrylic lacquer". Is that the sort of thing you have in mind? Cheers, Phil. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 19, 11:18 pm, Phil Endecott wrote:
Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I've found this page, which seems to be comprehensive: http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm Any thoughts? Phil. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote:
On Sep 20, 5:56 pm, "dadiOH" wrote: Phil Endecott wrote: My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. http://www.google.com/#hl=en&cp=9&gs...+lacquer&pf=p&... That mainly finds the stuff for covering metalic car paint, and stuff for fingernails... It finds... Rustoleum Permalac Moeller Marine Ace Watco Behlen Qualalacq And via the "spray clear lacquer" link at the bottom, Krylon and others. It also links sites for info about using them. You can also find various brands at any Home Depot or Lowes. _________________________ There are a few products like this one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/chestnut-...0ml-prod19762/ which claim to be "acrylic lacquer". Is that the sort of thing you have in mind? As far as I am concerned, "lacquer" is a material such as nitrocellose that will redissolve in its thinner. I don't hink acrylic does that. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote:
On Sep 19, 11:18 pm, Phil Endecott wrote: Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I've found this page, which seems to be comprehensive: http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm Any thoughts? Phil. Regarding its notes about spraying lacquer, I would skip stain, sanding sealer and sanding between coats (unless you got crud in it). I would also pass on anything water base; as I said elsewhere, I want lacquer to re-dissolve in its thinner, makes life world's easier. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 20, 11:51*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Sep 20, 11:40*am, Phil Endecott wrote: On Sep 20, 1:06 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Yes, that's the sort of thing that I have in mind, except showing the wood rather than blackness. Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Could you perhaps post a link to the product that you have in mind? My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. You didn't say what the "small object" is, so a definitive recommendation can't be made. *Shellac is fine...for some things, but it may have to be waxed to protect it from some things that attack shellac. You could use Deft Brushing Lacquer (it comes in an aerosol, but I like brushes for fussy work), which is harder and more impervious. Multiple coats, with fine sanding in between can be easily done in a day.http://www.deftfinishes.com/trade/pr...inish-brushing.... R I went through gallons of Deft. Cool stuff. A bit stinky but lies down nicely. But I have never attempted a high gloss (wet look). I have used acrylic clear coat for that with great success. Expensive though. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
In another post, you say you want a clear finish. There are two basic
types of clear finishes; penetrants and surface finishes. Penetrants, such as tung oil and boiled linseed oil, do like the name suggests, penetrate down into the grain of the wood. This will enhance end grain (and darken it), as well as enhancing medulary and ray grain. To see what the piece would look like, you can wet the surface with mineral spirits or water (water may raise the grain). If you like this appearance, use a penetrating oil. Surface finishes don't penetrate the surface as much (they will go in a short distance, depending upon the porosity of the wood). The advantage is that they seal the surface, and can provide a hard protective finish. Examples are poly and lacquer. Since you're using black walnut, I would probably start with a tung oil (I like Formby's). Apply enough so that the surface is really wet, wait five minutes, then rub off the excess. I would apply two or three coats. I would follow up with a spray-on poly. Poly has the advantage of being easy to use, but has the disadvantage of sometimes looking too "plastic": lacquer is a little harder to get right, but provides a good hard surface. *This is important* - you need to let the final coat of tung oil cure for at least a week before applying another finish. If you don't, the poly (or whatever follow-on) will not lay down smoothly and will blotch. Depending on the top coat you use, you may be able to re-spray in an hour or so, so you could do the top coat(s) all in one day. Good luck, let us know what you did, and how it turns out! On Sep 19, 5:18*pm, Phil Endecott wrote: Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss surface. * |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 20, 7:43 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Phil Endecott wrote: On Sep 20, 5:56 pm, "dadiOH" wrote: Phil Endecott wrote: My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. http://www.google.com/#hl=en&cp=9&gs...+lacquer&pf=p&... That mainly finds the stuff for covering metalic car paint, and stuff for fingernails... It finds... Rustoleum Permalac Moeller Marine Ace Watco Behlen Qualalacq Thanks, I'll look them up. (FYI, Google returns different results depending on your geographical location and other factors.) Phil. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote the following:
On Sep 20, 5:07 pm, willshak wrote: Phil Endecott wrote the following: On Sep 20, 1:06 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Ever see any black high gloss jewelry boxes? Yes, that's the sort of thing that I have in mind, except showing the wood rather than blackness. Most are done in lacquer. Since the project is small, a couple of rattle cans of high gloss lacquer should do the job. Could you perhaps post a link to the product that you have in mind? My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. Thanks, Phil. Rustoleum, Krylon, TrueValue, Plastikote and some others all make gloss black lacquer spray paint. But I don't want black, I want clear. My local hardware shop has a shelf of Plastikote spray products including the clear PU varnish that I mentioned before, and another product that seems intended to be applied over a matt painted finish to make it glossy. Cheers, Phil. Oh, Sorry. I guess I was distracted by Lew's mention of black jewelry boxes. -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote:
On Sep 20, 7:43 pm, "dadiOH" wrote: Phil Endecott wrote: On Sep 20, 5:56 pm, "dadiOH" wrote: Phil Endecott wrote: My searches mainly find sprays to go over metalic car paint, and I doubt that's the same thing. http://www.google.com/#hl=en&cp=9&gs...+lacquer&pf=p&... That mainly finds the stuff for covering metalic car paint, and stuff for fingernails... It finds... Rustoleum Permalac Moeller Marine Ace Watco Behlen Qualalacq Thanks, I'll look them up. (FYI, Google returns different results depending on your geographical location and other factors.) Phil. Yeah, the posted link was what Google gave for my location; nevertheless, it gave all I mentioned and they are available everywhere. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Tue, 20 Sep 2011 10:33:58 -0700 (PDT), Phil Endecott
wrote: On Sep 19, 11:18 pm, Phil Endecott wrote: Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I've found this page, which seems to be comprehensive: http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm Any thoughts? #5 IS ALIVE! -- A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description of a happy state in this world. -- John Locke |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 20, 7:49 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Phil Endecott wrote: On Sep 19, 11:18 pm, Phil Endecott wrote: Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I've found this page, which seems to be comprehensive: http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm Any thoughts? Phil. Regarding its notes about spraying lacquer, I would skip stain, sanding sealer and sanding between coats (unless you got crud in it). I would also pass on anything water base; as I said elsewhere, I want lacquer to re-dissolve in its thinner, makes life world's easier. I've spent the last week waiting for a can of spray lacquer to arrive - somehow I managed to choose a very slow supplier... I've now tried it on a small test piece, and I've put a photo he http://chezphil.org/tmp/lacquer.jpeg That is after very very many "thin coats". Maybe my idea of "thin" is too thin; they were thin enough that the solvent had evaporated and it seemed dry in under a minute. Even after all these coats, as you can see there are still many "dimples" over the pores in the grain. I have the impression that if I put on some thicker coats it would smooth over those holes, but that might have some adverse effects. I am now wondering if "sanding sealer", or some other product, is needed first to block up these pores first. Or alternatively, some sort of wax or oil could do the same job. I considered applying some sort of oil first but my feeling was that I was happy with the natural colour. Oil might improve the colours, or I might regret using it. (My local store seems to have lots of Danish Oil, but I don't think I saw any Tung Oil.) Or perhaps I am supposed to sand it to remove these dimples before applying more coats? Any thoughts? Phil. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
That is after very very many "thin coats". *Maybe my idea of "thin" is
too thin; they were thin enough that the solvent had evaporated and it seemed dry in under a minute. *Even after all these coats, as you can see there are still many "dimples" over the pores in the grain. *I have the impression that if I put on some thicker coats it would smooth over those holes, but that might have some adverse effects. I am now wondering if "sanding sealer", or some other product, is needed first to block up these pores first. Oh Phil... Thick or thin, you won't have much success filling grain with film finishes. You need to learn about grain fillers if you want to have a piano smooth finish. Semantics really. You did get a really glossy finish but you wanted a very flat (physically flat not visually) glossy finish. Get some expert advice from the master. Look at the bottom of the page. http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...woodglazes.htm |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On 9/27/2011 3:41 PM, Phil Endecott wrote:
I've spent the last week waiting for a can of spray lacquer to arrive - somehow I managed to choose a very slow supplier... I've now tried it on a small test piece, and I've put a photo he http://chezphil.org/tmp/lacquer.jpeg That is after very very many "thin coats". Maybe my idea of "thin" is too thin; they were thin enough that the solvent had evaporated and it seemed dry in under a minute. Even after all these coats, as you can see there are still many "dimples" over the pores in the grain. I have the impression that if I put on some thicker coats it would smooth over those holes, but that might have some adverse effects. I am now wondering if "sanding sealer", or some other product, is needed first to block up these pores first. Or alternatively, some sort of wax or oil could do the same job. I considered applying some sort of oil first but my feeling was that I was happy with the natural colour. Oil might improve the colours, or I might regret using it. (My local store seems to have lots of Danish Oil, but I don't think I saw any Tung Oil.) Or perhaps I am supposed to sand it to remove these dimples before applying more coats? Any thoughts? Phil. I won't claim to be an expert, but I've done quite a bit of varnish and lacquer on my sailboat. For that smooth as bone china look, you have to fill the wood grain. What I do is apply 3 or 4 coats, then sand the finish smooth - or as smooth as it can get at that stage. Let the finish dry really well between cycles. Try not to sand all the way back to the wood surface. Repeat until satisfied with the finish, or bored to tears. |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Tue, 27 Sep 2011 13:41:01 -0700 (PDT), Phil Endecott
wrote: On Sep 20, 7:49 pm, "dadiOH" wrote: Phil Endecott wrote: On Sep 19, 11:18 pm, Phil Endecott wrote: Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I've found this page, which seems to be comprehensive: http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm Any thoughts? Phil. Regarding its notes about spraying lacquer, I would skip stain, sanding sealer and sanding between coats (unless you got crud in it). I would also pass on anything water base; as I said elsewhere, I want lacquer to re-dissolve in its thinner, makes life world's easier. I've spent the last week waiting for a can of spray lacquer to arrive - somehow I managed to choose a very slow supplier... I've now tried it on a small test piece, and I've put a photo he http://chezphil.org/tmp/lacquer.jpeg That is after very very many "thin coats". Maybe my idea of "thin" is too thin; they were thin enough that the solvent had evaporated and it seemed dry in under a minute. Even after all these coats, as you can see there are still many "dimples" over the pores in the grain. I have the impression that if I put on some thicker coats it would smooth over those holes, but that might have some adverse effects. I am now wondering if "sanding sealer", or some other product, is needed first to block up these pores first. Or alternatively, some sort of wax or oil could do the same job. I considered applying some sort of oil first but my feeling was that I was happy with the natural colour. Oil might improve the colours, or I might regret using it. (My local store seems to have lots of Danish Oil, but I don't think I saw any Tung Oil.) Or perhaps I am supposed to sand it to remove these dimples before applying more coats? Any thoughts? Any and all of the above. Lacquer is usually used on the flat, fully sanded wood for an impeccable gloss finish. Varnish is thicker and usually hides grain plus providing a fairly glossy surface. It would be your easiest, 1-step finish. Oil finishes leave the grain, which is why I like and use them almost exclusively. You can still feel the wood. Waterlox (my fave finish) can be brushed on heavily, but you lose the tactile feel, the "hand" of the wood, when the finish is built up like that. I hand rub 3-7 coats of that onto my projects using the satin, and I usually wax it with 0000 steel wool to flatten it a bit more. YMMV. The grain is still visible and feelable on a hand-rubbed piece. To continue using your lacquer for the glossy finish, yes, try a sanding sealer. Find a compatible finish. It will build up and flatten the surface for a glossy surface free of divots. Spray the sealer, let dry, sand. Repeat until the surface is completely smooth. Then lacquer it for the seemless gloss. -- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air… -- Ralph Waldo Emerson |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote:
Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? -------------------------------- Enough to get into trouble. -------------------------------- I've found this page, which seems to be comprehensive: http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm Any thoughts? Phil. -------------------------------------- S3 makes GOOD stuff. Have used at least 10,000 lbs of the stuff. Epoxy contains NO UV inhibitors, thus you need to top coat it with an outdoor poly. (Epifanes is the gold standard). Before venturing down this road, make sure the investment of time and money is worth it. Have fun. Lew |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 27, 10:51 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Thick or thin, you won't have much success filling grain with film finishes. You need to learn about grain fillers if you want to have a piano smooth finish. Semantics really. You did get a really glossy finish but you wanted a very flat (physically flat not visually) glossy finish. Get some expert advice from the master. Look at the bottom of the page.http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...woodglazes.htm Right, so my local store seems to have something like the "natural paste wood filler" described there (called "natural grain filler") and indeed it is an opaque light (pine) colour, which is very visible when I try it on this wood. I've not yet found a source for anything like the "transparent grain filler" described there. What is "sanding sealer"? Will it do what I want? |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
Phil Endecott wrote:
I've spent the last week waiting for a can of spray lacquer to arrive - somehow I managed to choose a very slow supplier... Why didn't you just go to Lowes/Home Depot/Ace and buy a can? __________________________ I've now tried it on a small test piece, and I've put a photo he http://chezphil.org/tmp/lacquer.jpeg That is after very very many "thin coats". Maybe my idea of "thin" is too thin; they were thin enough that the solvent had evaporated and it seemed dry in under a minute. Even after all these coats, as you can see there are still many "dimples" over the pores in the grain. I have the impression that if I put on some thicker coats it would smooth over those holes, but that might have some adverse effects. With lacquer, you don't necessarily want "thin", you want "even". Once laquer dries, the remaining material is very thin; when I brush on lacquer, I put on as much as possible without having it run off the edges; that not only gives me a thicker coat once dry but lets the lacquer "flow" (even out). __________________________ I am now wondering if "sanding sealer", or some other product, is needed first to block up these pores first. See below __________________ Or alternatively, some sort of wax or oil could do the same job. I considered applying some sort of oil first but my feeling was that I was happy with the natural colour. Oil might improve the colours, or I might regret using it. (My local store seems to have lots of Danish Oil, but I don't think I saw any Tung Oil.) Lacquer may eat oil; that is, cause it to reticulate. You won't likely find tung oil in a local store. What you will find are "tung oil finishes". Those are mostly BLO with a dollap of tung. Maybe a dollap of varnish too. The manufacturers put out a world of misinformation about finshes, all claiming superiority and/or proprietary miracles. The fact is, there isn't a RCH difference among them...they all start with the same palette of available materials. BLO and tung are both useful but they are different; BLO will ultimately become quite dark; how dark depends upon how much was absorbed and/or trapped in the wood pores. By "quite dark" I mean almost black, albeit a reddish one. If you want to see how dark, look at a can that has some accumulated on it over a few months from pouring. Another difference is that BLO will support the growth of mold better than tung. IMO, YMMV _____________________ Or perhaps I am supposed to sand it to remove these dimples before applying more coats? Yes. If it has dried for at least a week and has no odor, sand until there is no shiny spot anywhere then respray 2-3 medium coats. Those too may require sanding...what you want - a flawless, glossy surface - is very hard to accomplish without rubbing out the final surface with ever finer abrasives. The dimples are from the grain in the wood. A magnified cross section of a piece of wood would look like the basin & range area in Nevada...there would be towering peaks and deep valleys. For a piece of wood to have a flawless finish, the valleys have to be filled up. You can fill them with paste wood filler, sanding sealer or the top coat material itself. The first two are just small, solid, more or less clear particles with a bit of something to stick the particles together after the something dries. The particles can be most anything that fits the criteria of what you need; for clear, pumice or other fine silica is usual. The "something" to stick them together can be lacquer (nitro/vinyl/acrylic), varnish (phenolic/alkyd/poly/Damar/etc), shellac, BLO, etc...anything that will sand easily and be compatible with the final top coat. You could even use starch - drying type drywall compound is nothing more than very fine calcium carbonate (same as limestone) and starch. The reason to use the either of the first two is time: being largely solid particles, they will fill up the valleys faster than a plain top coat. In order to get a totally smooth top coat surface the underlying surface has to be perfectly smooth to begin with. Or be made so. The reason things need to be totally dry is this: when you fill up the valleys, they contain much more material than what covers the mountain tops; consequently, they take much longer to dry. If you sand before they are, they will continue to dry and you'll wind up with valleys again; however, they will be less deep than they originally were. If you had a way to spray laquer thinner, I would suggest you spray your piece with it and immediately place it in a small, closed box to retard drying. Once dry, it should be considerably improved and require less sanding before the final coats. You could do something similar by spraying a heavy, wet coat of lacquer but that would be less effective. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 28, 1:23 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Phil Endecott wrote: I've spent the last week waiting for a can of spray lacquer to arrive - somehow I managed to choose a very slow supplier... Why didn't you just go to Lowes/Home Depot/Ace and buy a can? None of those stores exist in the country where I live. Often I find it quicker (and maybe cheaper) to order something online and have it arrive the next day rather than visiting the two or three local stores, but this time was an exception. Or perhaps I am supposed to sand it to remove these dimples before applying more coats? Yes. If it has dried for at least a week and has no odor, sand until there is no shiny spot anywhere then respray 2-3 medium coats. Those too may require sanding...what you want - a flawless, glossy surface - is very hard to accomplish without rubbing out the final surface with ever finer abrasives. The dimples are from the grain in the wood. A magnified cross section of a piece of wood would look like the basin & range area in Nevada...there would be towering peaks and deep valleys. For a piece of wood to have a flawless finish, the valleys have to be filled up. You can fill them with paste wood filler, sanding sealer or the top coat material itself. The first two are just small, solid, more or less clear particles with a bit of something to stick the particles together after the something dries. The particles can be most anything that fits the criteria of what you need; for clear, pumice or other fine silica is usual. The "something" to stick them together can be lacquer (nitro/vinyl/acrylic), varnish (phenolic/alkyd/poly/Damar/etc), shellac, BLO, etc...anything that will sand easily and be compatible with the final top coat. You could even use starch - drying type drywall compound is nothing more than very fine calcium carbonate (same as limestone) and starch. The reason to use the either of the first two is time: being largely solid particles, they will fill up the valleys faster than a plain top coat. In order to get a totally smooth top coat surface the underlying surface has to be perfectly smooth to begin with. Or be made so. The reason things need to be totally dry is this: when you fill up the valleys, they contain much more material than what covers the mountain tops; consequently, they take much longer to dry. If you sand before they are, they will continue to dry and you'll wind up with valleys again; however, they will be less deep than they originally were. If you had a way to spray laquer thinner, I would suggest you spray your piece with it and immediately place it in a small, closed box to retard drying. Once dry, it should be considerably improved and require less sanding before the final coats. You could do something similar by spraying a heavy, wet coat of lacquer but that would be less effective. Thanks for all the suggestions. As I mentioned before I have got some "natural" grain filler, and this seems to have done its job; I'm going to try spraying some lacquer over that later. But it's not acceptable for the real item because of its colour, so I'll need to find a transparent alternative. Cheers, Phil. |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
The grain on your sample was pretty extreme.
I ran into the same kind of thing with 20 year old wood in my boat. The grain had raised quite a bit. My solution was just layer after layer of varnish. Let it dry hard after 4 or so layers then sand it out a bit more. I use clear varnish only for buildup coats, and a final couple of coats of satin. I think it came out pretty nice! http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress/refine.htm |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Varnish and lacquer
On Sep 19, 5:18*pm, Phil Endecott wrote:
Dear Experts, What do people here know about the different types of varnish, lacquer and other clear gloss wood finishes? I have made a small object from black walnut and I would like to finish it with a very high-gloss surface. *One option that I've considered is spray-on varnish (which describes itself as polyurethane). *Internet research (i.e. the Wikipedia "Lacquer" page) tells me that there are also lacquers based on acrylic and other materials. *A friend has shown me something that he has given a very deep high-gloss finish to using epoxy resin! *What is the best way to get a good result, without needing years of practice? Thanks for any suggestions, Phil. Phil-- I wish I'd seen your post sooner. I think I understand what you want, and I do it fairly often on various woods. I use multiple coats of lacquer--sometimes ten or twelve. I use a traditional method that doesn't use a sealer or filler, but requires sanding between at least every two or three coats.The sanding is to level the surface by removing the higher spots. Don't worry about getting it perfectly flat on the first sanding or two--there will still be some grain telegraphing through. By the time you are on the last two or three coats, the surface should be flat with no evidence of grain texture. Be very careful when sanding near edges or corners as it is easy to break through. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Lacquer | Woodworking Plans and Photos | |||
Varnish of Lacquer | Home Repair | |||
Water-borne Finishes (Poly vs Lacquer vs Varnish) | Woodworking | |||
Water based wood varnish and floor varnish recommendations | UK diy | |||
Aargh Polyurethane or Lacquer or Shellac or Varnish -- I'm confused | Home Repair |