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Joe Joe is offline
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Default AC in shop (was A Prognostication)


Without an air return, any moisture condenses corresponding with
the change in temperature, no?


"John" wrote
The comments on rust, A/C, and TopCote clearly has my interest. Big
question...A/C operating costs. Down here it would have to run 26-28 hours a
day. Open the garage door and the figure would jump to 30 hours/day. How big
of an A/C are you guys using?

Sorry for posting so late on a thread. I've been busy, lately.
My garage has a room above it. There is a main trunk (fiberboard) running
through part of the garage. I cut a hole, about 8" x 14" in the trunk. I
fit a board to sit on the inside of the trunk, a couple inches larger than
the hole. When I want AC or heat, I slide the board to the side to let the
air blow out the hole. When I am done, I slide the board over to cover the
hole.
Sometimes when the AC is not running very hard, I turn the air handler to
fan on setting, and it blows the air from the house into the garage at
whatever temperature the house thermostat is set at, until it cycles on,
then it blows colder (or more warm) than the setting.
All we are trying to do is take the edge off the heat, or cold. It works
well for me.
-- Jim in NC

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Default AC in shop (was A Prognostication)

On 8/24/2011 4:25 PM, Joe wrote:
Without an air return, any moisture condenses corresponding with
the change in temperature, no?


"John" wrote
The comments on rust, A/C, and TopCote clearly has my interest. Big
question...A/C operating costs. Down here it would have to run 26-28 hours a
day. Open the garage door and the figure would jump to 30 hours/day. How big
of an A/C are you guys using?

Sorry for posting so late on a thread. I've been busy, lately.
My garage has a room above it. There is a main trunk (fiberboard) running
through part of the garage. I cut a hole, about 8" x 14" in the trunk. I
fit a board to sit on the inside of the trunk, a couple inches larger than
the hole. When I want AC or heat, I slide the board to the side to let the
air blow out the hole. When I am done, I slide the board over to cover the
hole.
Sometimes when the AC is not running very hard, I turn the air handler to
fan on setting, and it blows the air from the house into the garage at
whatever temperature the house thermostat is set at, until it cycles on,
then it blows colder (or more warm) than the setting.
All we are trying to do is take the edge off the heat, or cold. It works
well for me.
-- Jim in NC


that probably doesn't meet fire codes, and is pretty dangerous.
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Default AC in shop (was A Prognostication)

My garage has a room above it. There is a main trunk (fiberboard) running
through part of the garage. I cut a hole, about 8" x 14" in the trunk. I
fit a board to sit on the inside of the trunk, a couple inches larger than
the hole. When I want AC or heat, I slide the board to the side to let
the
air blow out the hole. When I am done, I slide the board over to cover
the
hole.
Sometimes when the AC is not running very hard, I turn the air handler to
fan on setting, and it blows the air from the house into the garage at
whatever temperature the house thermostat is set at, until it cycles on,
then it blows colder (or more warm) than the setting.
All we are trying to do is take the edge off the heat, or cold. It works
well for me.
-- Jim in NC


that probably doesn't meet fire codes, and is pretty dangerous.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OMG! Worry about nothing.

I only use this setup while I am out there working. No fire risk. Plus
there is a smoke alarm connected to the rest of the house. Besides, does
code rule out heating and cooling a garage from one unit with the house?

As far as air returns, the garage door lets out any air the AC blows in, so
it does not need a return. The house leaks enough (older house) that it
draws any makeup air in from outside.

-- Jim in NC


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Default AC in shop (was A Prognostication)

On 8/30/2011 10:28 PM, Morgans wrote:
My garage has a room above it. There is a main trunk (fiberboard) running
through part of the garage. I cut a hole, about 8" x 14" in the trunk. I
fit a board to sit on the inside of the trunk, a couple inches larger
than
the hole. When I want AC or heat, I slide the board to the side to let
the
air blow out the hole. When I am done, I slide the board over to cover
the
hole.
Sometimes when the AC is not running very hard, I turn the air handler to
fan on setting, and it blows the air from the house into the garage at
whatever temperature the house thermostat is set at, until it cycles on,
then it blows colder (or more warm) than the setting.
All we are trying to do is take the edge off the heat, or cold. It works
well for me.
-- Jim in NC


that probably doesn't meet fire codes, and is pretty dangerous.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


OMG! Worry about nothing.

I only use this setup while I am out there working. No fire risk. Plus
there is a smoke alarm connected to the rest of the house. Besides, does
code rule out heating and cooling a garage from one unit with the house?


yes. the unit could suck fire into the rest of the house. you'd probably
have to seal it back up with 5/8" rock in order to sell the house.

As far as air returns, the garage door lets out any air the AC blows in,
so it does not need a return. The house leaks enough (older house) that
it draws any makeup air in from outside.

-- Jim in NC



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Default AC in shop (was A Prognostication)

On 8/31/2011 10:39 AM, chaniarts wrote:
On 8/30/2011 10:28 PM, Morgans wrote:
My garage has a room above it. There is a main trunk (fiberboard)
running
through part of the garage. I cut a hole, about 8" x 14" in the trunk. I
fit a board to sit on the inside of the trunk, a couple inches larger
than
the hole. When I want AC or heat, I slide the board to the side to let
the
air blow out the hole. When I am done, I slide the board over to cover
the
hole.
Sometimes when the AC is not running very hard, I turn the air
handler to
fan on setting, and it blows the air from the house into the garage at
whatever temperature the house thermostat is set at, until it cycles on,
then it blows colder (or more warm) than the setting.
All we are trying to do is take the edge off the heat, or cold. It works
well for me.


that probably doesn't meet fire codes, and is pretty dangerous.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


OMG! Worry about nothing.

I only use this setup while I am out there working. No fire risk. Plus
there is a smoke alarm connected to the rest of the house. Besides, does
code rule out heating and cooling a garage from one unit with the house?


yes. the unit could suck fire into the rest of the house. you'd probably
have to seal it back up with 5/8" rock in order to sell the house.

As far as air returns, the garage door lets out any air the AC blows in,
so it does not need a return. The house leaks enough (older house) that
it draws any makeup air in from outside.


I don't know what a "trunk" is, but my garage shop has a 30" x 7' hole
in it with a board that I slide open or closed to let heat in or out, it
is called a door at the top of the steps? Actually my shop has heat, so
I only need to open it to let air conditioned air fall into it in the
summer:-)
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
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