I am considering a Delta Unisaw (36-816), made in 1999.

I know it has a "splitter" whereas new models have a "riving knife", to
avoid kickback.

I read somewhere that "some Delta Unisaws has splitter's of such poor
design that they are useless". I'm not sure if the 1999 model deserved
that comment.

Can anyone advise me regarding this detail concerning the saw above?
I'm just wondering whether this a reason to look for a different saw?
Based upon the Unisaw's reputation I'm guessing that the answer is no,
but I want to ask anyway.

Bill

On 6/27/2011 5:15 AM, Bill wrote:

I am considering a Delta Unisaw (36-816), made in 1999.

I know it has a "splitter" whereas new models have a "riving knife", to
avoid kickback.

I read somewhere that "some Delta Unisaws has splitter's of such poor
design that they are useless". I'm not sure if the 1999 model deserved
that comment.

Can anyone advise me regarding this detail concerning the saw above?
I'm just wondering whether this a reason to look for a different saw?
Based upon the Unisaw's reputation I'm guessing that the answer is no,
but I want to ask anyway.

That model does have a different splitter than the later models in that
it attaches at two locations instead of one.

That said, since most of those familiar with table saw use immediately
remove the blade guard and kickback pawls and all the nuts, bolts, pins
that hold them onto the splitter, I can't imagine the function of the
actual splitter that is left being any different than any other.

My Unisaw is a different model, and all the extraneous stuff that
doesn't look like a splitter has been removed, works simply as a
splitter, and does a good job of that and, while I don't use a blade
guard, I do _always_ use a splitter on through cuts.

Regardless, I certainly would not let that remark you saw kill an
otherwise good deal on a used Unisaw.

FWIW, if you do decide to buy it and want to replace the blade guard
with the overhead Delta blade guard and use just the splitter, I have
one I'm not using that I will part with for a nominal price, plus
shipping, that is similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-34-976-D.../dp/B0000223C8


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 6/27/2011 5:15 AM, Bill wrote:

I am considering a Delta Unisaw (36-816), made in 1999.

I know it has a "splitter" whereas new models have a "riving knife", to
avoid kickback.

I read somewhere that "some Delta Unisaws has splitter's of such poor
design that they are useless". I'm not sure if the 1999 model deserved
that comment.

Can anyone advise me regarding this detail concerning the saw above?
I'm just wondering whether this a reason to look for a different saw?
Based upon the Unisaw's reputation I'm guessing that the answer is no,
but I want to ask anyway.

That model does have a different splitter than the later models in that
it attaches at two locations instead of one.

That said, since most of those familiar with table saw use immediately
remove the blade guard and kickback pawls and all the nuts, bolts, pins
that hold them onto the splitter, I can't imagine the function of the
actual splitter that is left being any different than any other.

My Unisaw is a different model, and all the extraneous stuff that
doesn't look like a splitter has been removed, works simply as a
splitter, and does a good job of that and, while I don't use a blade
guard, I do _always_ use a splitter on through cuts.

Regardless, I certainly would not let that remark you saw kill an
otherwise good deal on a used Unisaw.

FWIW, if you do decide to buy it and want to replace the blade guard
with the overhead Delta blade guard and use just the splitter, I have
one I'm not using that I will part with for a nominal price, plus
shipping, that is similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-34-976-D.../dp/B0000223C8


Thank you for your comments. AAMOF, the saw I am looking at has an
overhead blade guard. Figuring how to load it into a rented pick-up
truck 200 miles away is among my highest concerns. I need to call and
ask related questions (but it's advertised as "you're on your own").

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...
Swingman wrote:
On 6/27/2011 5:15 AM, Bill wrote:

I am considering a Delta Unisaw (36-816), made in 1999.

I know it has a "splitter" whereas new models have a "riving knife", to
avoid kickback.

I read somewhere that "some Delta Unisaws has splitter's of such poor
design that they are useless". I'm not sure if the 1999 model deserved
that comment.

Can anyone advise me regarding this detail concerning the saw above?
I'm just wondering whether this a reason to look for a different saw?
Based upon the Unisaw's reputation I'm guessing that the answer is no,
but I want to ask anyway.

That model does have a different splitter than the later models in that
it attaches at two locations instead of one.

That said, since most of those familiar with table saw use immediately
remove the blade guard and kickback pawls and all the nuts, bolts, pins
that hold them onto the splitter, I can't imagine the function of the
actual splitter that is left being any different than any other.

My Unisaw is a different model, and all the extraneous stuff that
doesn't look like a splitter has been removed, works simply as a
splitter, and does a good job of that and, while I don't use a blade
guard, I do _always_ use a splitter on through cuts.

Regardless, I certainly would not let that remark you saw kill an
otherwise good deal on a used Unisaw.

FWIW, if you do decide to buy it and want to replace the blade guard
with the overhead Delta blade guard and use just the splitter, I have
one I'm not using that I will part with for a nominal price, plus
shipping, that is similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-34-976-D.../dp/B0000223C8


Thank you for your comments. AAMOF, the saw I am looking at has an
overhead blade guard. Figuring how to load it into a rented pick-up
truck 200 miles away is among my highest concerns. I need to call and
ask related questions (but it's advertised as "you're on your own").

Bill

When I bought mine I rented a motorcycle trailer from u-haul. It's
very low to the ground and made loading/unloading a 1 man job.
Provided one removes the table extensions & fence rails.
Art

Artemus wrote:

Thank you for your comments. AAMOF, the saw I am looking at has an
overhead blade guard. Figuring how to load it into a rented pick-up
truck 200 miles away is among my highest concerns. I need to call and
ask related questions (but it's advertised as "you're on your own").

Bill

When I bought mine I rented a motorcycle trailer from u-haul. It's
very low to the ground and made loading/unloading a 1 man job.
Provided one removes the table extensions& fence rails.
Art

Thank you for that suggestion. Did you use a "refrigerator hand-truck"
to help get it in? 1-man job, huh? : ) I'll go look up the retail
details...

BTW, did you rest it on a board on it's top (like I've heard people do)?

Bill

On 6/27/2011 6:54 PM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 6/27/2011 5:15 AM, Bill wrote:

I am considering a Delta Unisaw (36-816), made in 1999.

I know it has a "splitter" whereas new models have a "riving knife", to
avoid kickback.

I read somewhere that "some Delta Unisaws has splitter's of such poor
design that they are useless". I'm not sure if the 1999 model deserved
that comment.

Can anyone advise me regarding this detail concerning the saw above?
I'm just wondering whether this a reason to look for a different saw?
Based upon the Unisaw's reputation I'm guessing that the answer is no,
but I want to ask anyway.

That model does have a different splitter than the later models in that
it attaches at two locations instead of one.

That said, since most of those familiar with table saw use immediately
remove the blade guard and kickback pawls and all the nuts, bolts, pins
that hold them onto the splitter, I can't imagine the function of the
actual splitter that is left being any different than any other.

My Unisaw is a different model, and all the extraneous stuff that
doesn't look like a splitter has been removed, works simply as a
splitter, and does a good job of that and, while I don't use a blade
guard, I do _always_ use a splitter on through cuts.

Regardless, I certainly would not let that remark you saw kill an
otherwise good deal on a used Unisaw.

FWIW, if you do decide to buy it and want to replace the blade guard
with the overhead Delta blade guard and use just the splitter, I have
one I'm not using that I will part with for a nominal price, plus
shipping, that is similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-34-976-D.../dp/B0000223C8


Thank you for your comments. AAMOF, the saw I am looking at has an
overhead blade guard. Figuring how to load it into a rented pick-up
truck 200 miles away is among my highest concerns. I need to call and
ask related questions (but it's advertised as "you're on your own").

If it is a Delta UniGuard, it came with its own splitter, and that would
be different from the stock splitter that came with the saw ... a much
better splitter, in the Beis style.

Does the prospective saw have a mobile base?

If the saw does not have a mobile base, buy one from Delta before you go!

I'm serious ...

You will want a mobile base in any case, and it, and a rented truck with
a "TommyLift" tail gate, makes the job a "no sweat" proposition, AND you
don't need to disassemble the saw.

(In the last four years Leon and I have moved my Unisaw three times, and
his Jet cabinet saw once, both fully assembled)

On a mobile base, we can load a Jet cabinet saw or Unisaw, fully
assembled with a 52" fence and table, into the back of a 16' box truck
in less than 30 seconds without breaking a sweat. AAMOF, the Unisaw is
much easier to load than a 14" bandsaw, or floor standing drill press.

Rent that truck with a "Tommy Lift" tail gate. It was what the man who
delivered my Unisaw when I first bought it used, and it indeed was a one
man job thus equipped, and with the mobile base.

Besides, what it costs to rent a thusly equipped truck is cheap compared
to the time it takes to take the saw apart, re-assemble it and, most
importantly, _accurately_ reassemble it without the tools and expertise
to do so ... a Unisaw is not a contractors saw!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:

Does the prospective saw have a mobile base?

No.



If the saw does not have a mobile base, buy one from Delta before you go!

I'm serious ...

You will want a mobile base in any case, and it, and a rented truck with
a "TommyLift" tail gate, makes the job a "no sweat" proposition, AND you
don't need to disassemble the saw.

I'm not sure those grow on trees! : ) What about a U-haul 5'by9'
trailer with a ramp? I'll look into what you said.

(In the last four years Leon and I have moved my Unisaw three times, and
his Jet cabinet saw once, both fully assembled)

On a mobile base, we can load a Jet cabinet saw or Unisaw, fully
assembled with a 52" fence and table, into the back of a 16' box truck
in less than 30 seconds without breaking a sweat. AAMOF, the Unisaw is
much easier to load than a 14" bandsaw, or floor standing drill press.

Rent that truck with a "Tommy Lift" tail gate. It was what the man who
delivered my Unisaw when I first bought it used, and it indeed was a one
man job thus equipped, and with the mobile base.


So you use an appliance dolly to help me it onto the mobile base?

The best thing I have been able to find so far is a U-haul 5'by9'
trailer having a ramp. It appears do-able..surely an illusion..lol.


Besides, what it costs to rent a thusly equipped truck is cheap compared
to the time it takes to take the saw apart, re-assemble it and, most
importantly, _accurately_ reassemble it without the tools and expertise
to do so ... a Unisaw is not a contractors saw!

I'll see if I can find a thusly equipped rental truck.

Gosh, I didn't realize it would be that complex. A few weeks ago Amazon
had new Unisaws (52") for $2750 delivered to the door. With Grizzly 691
up to almost $1500 this season, including shipping, the Delta starts
looking attractive by comparison.

For some reason the new Delta price went up $550 to $3299 in the last 3
weeks or so.

I will also need to provide a COI ("Certificate of Insurance") for
$2 million dollar worth of General Liability Insurance in order to
remove the saw from the premises. Any guess as to what I might expect
to pay for for that? It better be a small fraction of the $2 Million...

Thanks for all the suggestions--it's good to outline the whole plan
before I buy the saw!

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...
Artemus wrote:

Thank you for your comments. AAMOF, the saw I am looking at has an
overhead blade guard. Figuring how to load it into a rented pick-up
truck 200 miles away is among my highest concerns. I need to call and
ask related questions (but it's advertised as "you're on your own").

Bill

When I bought mine I rented a motorcycle trailer from u-haul. It's
very low to the ground and made loading/unloading a 1 man job.
Provided one removes the table extensions& fence rails.
Art

Thank you for that suggestion. Did you use a "refrigerator hand-truck"
to help get it in? 1-man job, huh? : ) I'll go look up the retail
details...

BTW, did you rest it on a board on it's top (like I've heard people do)?

Bill

No hand truck. I just "walked" it up a short ramp and up to the
front of the trailer. I did have plywood under it on the trailer.
The wheels of the trailer were in the gutter putting the back end
almost on the driveway. I did not flip the saw upside down.
Art

Leon wrote:

That puts Bill in a position of actually spending some money.

You gotta be kidding.

Lew

Our only TV is 16 year old. Admittedly if it quits working, I'll
probably just replace it. That reminds me, I forgot to blow out the
candle over the icebox...grumble grumble..land of milk an'
honey...grumble grumble...

Bill



16 YEARS OLD!!!!! Is one of those Black and White TV's???? "~)

No, it's one of those "If it's not broke don't fix it, paid-for ones!"
(25" Magnavox)

I'm the current high bidder on the saw with less than a day to go...
My current bid is effectively $880 plus sales tax.

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

Leon wrote:

That puts Bill in a position of actually spending some money.

You gotta be kidding.

Lew

Our only TV is 16 year old. Admittedly if it quits working, I'll
probably just replace it. That reminds me, I forgot to blow out the
candle over the icebox...grumble grumble..land of milk an'
honey...grumble grumble...

Bill



16 YEARS OLD!!!!! Is one of those Black and White TV's???? "~)

No, it's one of those "If it's not broke don't fix it, paid-for ones!"
(25" Magnavox)

I'm the current high bidder on the saw with less than a day to go...
My current bid is effectively $880 plus sales tax.

Bill

-------
Sound like fun bidding you up at the last minute!!

mike

Lew Hodgett wrote:
: This one is a winner.

: http://tinyurl.com/3n6omyz

: Lew

Second the recommendation. I have the similar one for the Jet
cabinet saw, and it's excellent. Pain in the neck to align the
mount when ytou install it (has to be inline with the saw blade,
obviously) but when in place it's superb, and really easy to remove and
replace.

-- Andy Barss